UK based, first 250 mx bike, this any good?

Take a buddy who knows MX bikes with you. There are so many things to look for that you'd never be able to check for them all unless you have a good feel for the product.

That said, here are some things to look for:
Chain & sprockets: are they clean, free of debris, and is the chain lubed and adjusted? Are the sprocket teeth all intact and do they have a good, sharp shape?
Forks: Is there any leaking oil? Dings in the metal?
Body: Are there any missing bolts, torn, bent or otherwise deformed plastic?
Frame/subframe: Is the bike straight? Does the rear fender draw a straight line from the tip all the way to the gas cap when you are standing behind it?
Engine: Is there any oil leaking from the cases or around the drain bolt? How about around the countershaft sprocket?
Wheels: Are they reasonably true? Are any spokes loose or missing?

Are you sure you want a 250 2stroke as a first bike the RM is great but a handful something like a 125 2stroke or a 250f could be had for that budget easily

I have bought my son a crf250x which is electric start and the power is very mellow but I can get on the bike and still make it hustle along at a fair old pace!! Great little bikes and plenty Available and easy to sell on

Falcon wrote:

Take a buddy who knows MX bikes with you. There are so many things to look for that you'd never be able to check for them all unless you have a good feel for the product.

That said, here are some things to look for:
Chain & sprockets: are they clean, free of debris, and is the chain lubed and adjusted? Are the sprocket teeth all intact and do they have a good, sharp shape?
Forks: Is there any leaking oil? Dings in the metal?
Body: Are there any missing bolts, torn, bent or otherwise deformed plastic?
Frame/subframe: Is the bike straight? Does the rear fender draw a straight line from the tip all the way to the gas cap when you are standing behind it?
Engine: Is there any oil leaking from the cases or around the drain bolt? How about around the countershaft sprocket?
Wheels: Are they reasonably true? Are any spokes loose or missing?

Thank you for the reply. Sadly I don’t have any friends that are into mx. I’ve been doing some research on the sellers shop and he seems to be an honest bloke.
I’ll print out your check points and take them with me.

bentiggerwyles wrote:

Are you sure you want a 250 2stroke as a first bike the RM is great but a handful something like a 125 2stroke or a 250f could be had for that budget easily

I have bought my son a crf250x which is electric start and the power is very mellow but I can get on the bike and still make it hustle along at a fair old pace!! Great little bikes and plenty Available and easy to sell on

100% on the 250 2 stroke. The mx day I did I got to ride various cc and stoke bikes and the 250 2 stroke was by far by my favourite!

If was me i would seriously consider a YZ 250 spares and aftermarket support is far greater than the RM 250's now days.

Get one of those magnets on the stick things and ask the seller to take the Resonance Pipe off.
See if the magnet sticks to the cylinder wall. If it does, turn around and go home.

Make sure the air filter is clean, oily and sealed to the air box tight.

Falcon wrote:

Take a buddy who knows MX bikes with you. There are so many things to look for that you'd never be able to check for them all unless you have a good feel for the product.

That said, here are some things to look for:
Chain & sprockets: are they clean, free of debris, and is the chain lubed and adjusted? Are the sprocket teeth all intact and do they have a good, sharp shape?
Forks: Is there any leaking oil? Dings in the metal?
Body: Are there any missing bolts, torn, bent or otherwise deformed plastic?
Frame/subframe: Is the bike straight? Does the rear fender draw a straight line from the tip all the way to the gas cap when you are standing behind it?
Engine: Is there any oil leaking from the cases or around the drain bolt? How about around the countershaft sprocket?
Wheels: Are they reasonably true? Are any spokes loose or missing?

And grab the tops of both front and rear wheels (though not at the same time obviously) and push and pull from side to side to feel is there is any looseness in the wheel bearings. Doing this to the rear can also reveal worn swingarm bearings.
While there is no good way to check the linkage bearings, look at the pivot points and see if there is any reddish discoloration of grease or rusty residue. This will indicate a lacking of service to the linkage.
Lastly, stand next the to bike holding the bars, lock the front brake and push forward and back trying to detect loose steering stem bearings.
Might also take a compression tester just for a quick compression check of the cylinder.
Other than that, just a good looking over for overall condition will tell alot too.
Good Luck.

downard254 wrote:

And grab the tops of both front and rear wheels (though not at the same time obviously) and push and pull from side to side to feel is there is any looseness in the wheel bearings. Doing this to the rear can also reveal worn swingarm bearings.
While there is no good way to check the linkage bearings, look at the pivot points and see if there is any reddish discoloration of grease or rusty residue. This will indicate a lacking of service to the linkage.
Lastly, stand next the to bike holding the bars, lock the front brake and push forward and back trying to detect loose steering stem bearings.
Might also take a compression tester just for a quick compression check of the cylinder.
Other than that, just a good looking over for overall condition will tell alot too.
Good Luck.

As far as linkage bearing goes, you can check them (more or less) by moving the rear wheel up and down when the bike is on the stand.

Feel for compression at the kicker. It should have a very noticeable hard spot as u kick it to tdc. If it rolls thru easily and feels like a 125 at the kicker it needs top end work.

Lift the rear off the ground and set it back down if it clanks it needs shock or swingarm bearings.

Check the radiators arent caved in. Check coolant is full and not milky. Take seat off, and check air box and filter. If it hasnt been changed in ages and is filthy or literally falling apart from age u should pull the filter and look down the intake tract. U would need a 8 or 10mm for the seat bolts thats all ull need. Id really suggest that though and all the others are great tips also.

Check around front sprocket area on engine cases for cracks and shoddy welding repairs.

yz133rider wrote:

Feel for compression at the kicker. It should have a very noticeable hard spot as u kick it to tdc. If it rolls thru easily and feels like a 125 at the kicker it needs top end work.

Lift the rear off the ground and set it back down if it clanks it needs shock or swingarm bearings.

Check the radiators arent caved in. Check coolant is full and not milky. Take seat off, and check air box and filter. If it hasnt been changed in ages and is filthy or literally falling apart from age u should pull the filter and look down the intake tract. U would need a 8 or 10mm for the seat bolts thats all ull need. Id really suggest that though and all the others are great tips also.

Check around front sprocket area on engine cases for cracks and shoddy welding repairs.

Clutch pull should be light and smooth. If very stiff can mean worn basket which is pretty expensive easy enough to change but spmething to be aware of.

If its light and bike pulls smoothly as u let it out its good to go. If its notchy and jittery letting it out is a sign the baskets shot.

Make sure all 5 gears engage nicely. Make sure clutch doesnt slip. Put it in 3rd from a roll and open it up ull feel it slip if its bad.

Thats about what i can think of specifically to look for

Where are you in the UK???

Wow, there’s quite a lot of things to check then!
Thank you so much for the tips guys, hopefully because it’s from a shop it shouldn’t be too much of a shitter...
I’m in the midlands.

Another quick question, will the frame on that RM I linked be steel or aluminium?

Also found a nice looking YZ...

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192741124817

Judging by pics the yz looks less hours and cleaner to me, but thats just by pics

Slippy tribute wrote:

Another quick question, will the frame on that RM I linked be steel or aluminium?

All RM frames are steel only the CR, YZ or TM have an alloy frame on a 250 2.
Alot of people feel that steel is a better frame material. I'd go view them both in person and go from there. another good tip is try and get a feel of the owner, if it's a chavvy little oik i'd avoid it if it's someone who has alot of knowledge and seems like someone who's been in the sport for a while then the maintenance will probably be higher. Just my 2 'pence'

What would a good compression reading be and what would the lower limit be?