TwinWall questions

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3/19/2012 7:25 PM

I have noticed with my Renthal Twinwalls that I get much more feedback to my hands compared the the stock 7/8" Renthals. I was talking to a few pros and I was shocked to hear that they know of other pros who will cut the crossbar then sleeve it keeping it horizontal then the bar pad over the top. The sleeve also keeps it from obviously stabbing you in the chest!

I have also heard from others in industry that they know of other guys removing the cross bar all together and running them like pro tapers....

Anyone ever heard the same thing, done it yourselves or have any thoughts?

Discuss.....

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3/19/2012 7:55 PM

You can take the crossbar off completely and run a Fatbar style pad. That's coming direct from Renthal.

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3/19/2012 7:57 PM

^^^^^This.

TwinWalls work great without the crossbar.

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3/19/2012 8:04 PM

Or you could just run Pro Tapers.

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Go Hawks!

3/19/2012 8:12 PM

I took my crossbar off my TwinWalls and could notice a small difference but nothing crazy.

Still want to try those flexxx bars but no way in hell I'm dropping 150+ on bars.

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3/19/2012 8:29 PM

patrickadizzle wrote:

I took my crossbar off my TwinWalls and could notice a small difference but nothing crazy.

Still want to try those flexxx ...more

Just got rid of my Flexx bars for KW bend twin walls and it was a major change. In a good way. Feels like a race bike again. There is a reason nobody runs Flexx bars in the pro's. Plus they add nearly 3lbs at the highest point of the bike. Bars are a very personal choice. For me (straight motocross) I prefer Renthals over Pro tapper/Fat bars. Might even go back to 7/8" next.
For me it's all about feeling the track not trying not to feel the track. Vibration, impact, etc is a good thing for straight up moto. Trail riders might like the opposite. My moto's are 4 laps and under 10 minutes. Your results may vary.

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3/19/2012 8:49 PM

Thanks for all the info guys....it falls right inline with what I have been hearing. I am all moto as welland dont mind a bit of feedback but I happen to notice a bit more than anticipated. I might go back to the normal renthals and see what the difference is with back to back motos.

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3/19/2012 9:00 PM

Tried twinwalls a couple of times, they felt really hard/rigid. But they're strong as hell, bending triple clamps before you bend the bars, which isn't a good thing, really.

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3/19/2012 9:01 PM

I run 7/8" bars and my wrists thank me.

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3/19/2012 9:03 PM

tobz wrote:

Tried twinwalls a couple of times, they felt really hard/rigid. But they're strong as hell, bending triple clamps before you ...more

I've seen a set snap completely, i wonder if this is cos they are so rigid they dont bend they just crack and break.

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3/19/2012 9:05 PM

whats the diff between a set of twin walls and a set of renthal fat bars??

i liek 7/8" bars but they bend too easy (even renthals) so it makes more sense to run fat bars

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3/20/2012 12:03 AM

haydos25 wrote:

I've seen a set snap completely, i wonder if this is cos they are so rigid they dont bend they just crack and break.

Never bent a set. Snapped a set... and my collarbone.

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3/20/2012 8:20 AM

On the pamphlets that came with the bars they mention using a file and removing the sharp edge on the outside of the mounts. This would make sense to help keep them from snapping as some have experienced. I saw a pair demarinis snap on a whoop section whichwould resulted in a nasty crash.

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3/20/2012 10:05 AM

BigDaddyG wrote:

On the pamphlets that came with the bars they mention using a file and removing the sharp edge on the outside of the mounts. ...more

Mine actually snapped right where the "twin wall" ends and thins out to a regular bar.

I have replaced one set of handlebars in 8 years, I'm okay with that.

I am curious to try some fat bars out again, just to see the difference in rigidity now that I'm a bit more keen to feeling what my bike is doing and not just twisting the right grip.

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3/20/2012 10:23 AM

BigDaddyG wrote:

On the pamphlets that came with the bars they mention using a file and removing the sharp edge on the outside of the mounts. ...more

Riesenberg448 wrote:

Mine actually snapped right where the "twin wall" ends and thins out to a regular bar.

I have replaced one set of handlebars ...more

The difference between the Fatbar and Twinwall (from a rigidity) stanpoint is only a 6-7% difference (un-noticeable by most). TwinWalls are the best bars by a mile...Like Riesenburg said...replacing bars every 8 years vs. every 8 races (like the good old days)...makes them amazing. If you want to "feel" your motorcycle...7/8" Renthal aluminum bars are the way to go. If you want to race and not worry about bending or breaking bars for a while...TwinWalls are the best option.
End of story.

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3/20/2012 10:34 AM

Good question Ive wondered the same thing about the cross bar on stock sizes. I run protapers now but I have an old pair of bars im going to try it out on....thanks

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Go Deano!

3/20/2012 11:10 AM

Get the bars that are stock on the rmz s. I love the twinwall bars though.

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3/20/2012 12:51 PM

Full disclosure: I work for One Industries/ Tag metals


Renthal's Twinwall bars are super strong and very, very rigid. The reason many pros cut the cross bar is so they will flex a little more more, but also because it cuts vibration immensely. Twinwalls are also pretty heavy themselves - not nearly as much as the Flexx bars, but you are essentially running two handlebars.

The Fatbar is more like Tag's T2 bar or the Pro Taper original - a tapered bar with different wall thicknesses to improve strength and cut down on vibration. The Twinwall does not taper.

One great solution I think Tag has is the XT-1 handlebar: it is a tapered, single-wall bar with a crossbar on it and a vibration-absorbing elastomer inside. Extrememly rigid and strong, but the vibes are cut down quite a bit. It is lighter than a Twinwall.


As a safety precaution, make sure you replace your bars every few years at least; even without crashing they will fatigue from all the forces you apply to them in different directions. One poster mentioned he got 8 years from a single pair - I think that is definitely pushing it!
Whatever bar brand you choose, I hope that helps!

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Braaapin' aint easy.

3/20/2012 2:36 PM

Falcon wrote:

Full disclosure: I work for One Industries/ Tag metals


Renthal's Twinwall bars are super strong and very, very rigid. The ...more

Thanks for the info!

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3/20/2012 2:54 PM

Falcon wrote:

Full disclosure: I work for One Industries/ Tag metals


Renthal's Twinwall bars are super strong and very, very rigid. The ...more

What is your opinion on removing the crossbar from the Twinwalls? Do you think it's safe as long as you're replacing bars every so often? I'm asking because I've always been a Pro Taper kinda guy.......the crossbar just bugs the hell out of me for some reason. Right now I have Twinwalls and never knew people where removing the crossbar........I still scares me a little even though Renthal says its ok.

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3/20/2012 3:15 PM

Totally fine to remove the crossbar. But like you said, replace once they start to flex too much (if youre sensitive enough to notice such a thing).

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3/20/2012 3:30 PM

SND wrote:

The difference between the Fatbar and Twinwall (from a rigidity) stanpoint is only a 6-7% difference (un-noticeable by most). ...more

Or you could just run Pro Tapers and get the strength and crash damage resistance of twin wall's and the flex and feel of 7/8th bars.. the best of both worlds.

I'm pretty sure the Renthal Fatbars are a thicker wall-thickness than Pro Tapers. So they probably have even better crash resistance but are slightly more rigid.

Also, ever since Pro Taper sold out and started sourcing their bars from China instead of Easton, the Contours are kinda junk and will bend while the more expensive Evo's come close to the original Pro Tapers.

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Powerband in every gear !

3/20/2012 3:37 PM

I have Flexx bars on both my rides. You cant feel the weight difference on the track with them. The nice thing about them is that the Flex in the bar is adjustable. You can go from pretty stiff to what feels like 6" of Flex. They are a lot more money but if you would like a bar that basically gives you suspension for your hands, this is the way to go. I ride moto and off road and they work awesome for both. If you have wrist pain, there is no better option.

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Go Hawks!

3/20/2012 3:41 PM

Jabroni wrote:

Totally fine to remove the crossbar. But like you said, replace once they start to flex too much (if youre sensitive enough to ...more

Oh, trust me......I can tell when my tire pressure is off by 1/2 psi. Yeah right, I've probably ridden an entire moto with two flats and didn't even notice.

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3/20/2012 4:33 PM

mx510 wrote:

I have Flexx bars on both my rides. You cant feel the weight difference on the track with them. The nice thing about them is ...more

Pretty much covered it for what I wanted to say. If you are an old guy or have wrist problems or are like me and have both problems there is no better bar on the market. I have watched my bike flip end over end 3 times and the bars are fine. If they would have bent I have heard they will send you the replacement parts free. The only other thing I would like to say is these are the best solution for arm pump I have found. I get it no more.

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3/20/2012 5:15 PM

I briefly used a set of twinwalls and HATED them. Not worth the money. Way too rigid and the vibration would literally put your hands to sleep. Best bang for the buck would be the Tag XT-1 1-1/8 bars. Have zero vibration and tons of comfort

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3/20/2012 8:11 PM

Riesenberg448 wrote:

Mine actually snapped right where the "twin wall" ends and thins out to a regular bar.

I have replaced one set of handlebars ...more

SND wrote:

The difference between the Fatbar and Twinwall (from a rigidity) stanpoint is only a 6-7% difference (un-noticeable by most). ...more

FGR01 wrote:

Or you could just run Pro Tapers and get the strength and crash damage resistance of twin wall's and the flex and feel of ...more

Sorry to correct you, but I'm pretty sure (almost) that the Contours are the stronger of the two Pro Taper 1 1/8" bars. Stronger, but more rigid. You are correct about them being outsourced, although I'm not sure if it's China or where ever. The Evolution bars are not quite as strong, but they do flex more, close to the originals that came out in the early 90's. First time I saw them was Bradshaw at the DesNations in 90 or 91 I think.

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3/20/2012 8:42 PM

silver753 wrote:

Sorry to correct you, but I'm pretty sure (almost) that the Contours are the stronger of the two Pro Taper 1 1/8" bars. ...more

Well, the Contours are the cheaper of the 2 if that's any indication of anything. The way I was told is that the Contours are made in China and the Evo's are made in Taiwan. I've been through probably 20 pairs of Pro Tapers since about 1994 and all I know is I never bent a set of the originals, I never bent a set of the Evo's, but I did bend a pair of the Contours on a rather small crash.

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Powerband in every gear !

3/21/2012 1:45 PM

Falcon wrote:

Full disclosure: I work for One Industries/ Tag metals


Renthal's Twinwall bars are super strong and very, very rigid. The ...more

Torco1 wrote:

What is your opinion on removing the crossbar from the Twinwalls? Do you think it's safe as long as you're replacing bars ...more

I think you would be OK, but as a safety precaution you should ask someone at Renthal. I can't imagine it would be any different than cutting the crossbar like the pros sometime do.

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Braaapin' aint easy.

3/21/2012 2:28 PM

a 1 1/8" aluminum handlebar (braced or unbraced) will NEVER have the flex of a 7/8" aluminum handlebar. Don't think for a second that a braceless oversized bar has the flex of a 7/8" aluminum braced bar. That is not the case...not even close. If you want flex (or have bad wrists) use the Renthal 7/8" handlebar. If you want bars to last longer...use the oversized bars. Its that simple.I do have a little bit of experience and knowledge with handlebars. (more than a decade spent in the handlebar world)

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