Tips to becoming a decent Mechanic

Cross thread is better than no thread.

Strip it out, back it off a quarter of a turn.

work on it Kileys it is yours.
think speed efficiency like a flat rate mechanic

Never put something on finger tight, and follow the 10 tool rule. Never have more than 10 tools out of your tool box at one time, if you get more stop and put them away and then start over. Now with phone and cameras being digital take pictures as you dissemble that way you can go back and look if you have any questions when putting back together. Clean everything before you work on it and clean all your tools when done.

Be patient removing something or installing iof it seems stuck. Use the right tools for the job. Learn as much as you can from those who have seen it and done it before.

Righty tighty lefty loosey

Attention to detail.

copious amounts of red loctite on everything.

Never force anything. If it seems like your forcing it or fighting you, it’s probably wrong. Slow down, look again, reassess.

Coming from someone that’s fully aware of how you have my life in your hands when you’re prepping a bike for me to race or for a serious ride (Baja 1K or Rip to Cabo, etc.), I can offer the following:

If you wouldn’t put it on your bike, don’t put it on mine.

I need to believe in you as much as the bike.

You need to get paid for being as good as you are. (A really good mechanic/builder should be paid well)

Details matter.

Buy good tools! and have the right tools for the Job. not having the right tool always makes things harder.
Learning is really a case of self improvement. Watch, Listen and Learn. Make friends at the track with guys that have nice looking bikes, watch you tube videos. buy and learn to use a multi-meter, same with safety wire pliers...
Have Fun!

Keep everything clean and organized

Find something like this and label the drawers.
One draw for Crankcase screws.
One for clutch case screws.
One for water pump
One for ignition
clutch
kick-start assembly
cylinder head
exhaust valve
reed valve and so on..

Have several cupcake baking pans to put nuts bolts, screws and small parts in as you disassemble, put them in the cups in the order you take them off. also Plastic zip lock bags put parts in and label with a magic marker.

Tighten the seat bolts until they start to feel lose again, then back them off half a turn. No torque wrench required.

Tag on with someone better than you and learn.
If it feels like you’re forcing it you’re probably doing it wrong.
Can’t have too much lube.
If it’s leaking oil it has oil, cross thread is better than no thread, go till it strips then back off a quarter turn.

Okay maybe not those last couple

On race day use blue painters tape on the seat for every task you perform between motos (chain adjust, tire pressure, oil, clutch, etc) and pull them off as you finish each one. Never forget to tighten the rad cap, brake pedal bolt, or seat bolts again. You've seen what it can do.

Get a paint marker to keep track of bolts to make sure they don’t move.

If you don’t check the bolt often loctite it or safety wire it.

Document everything.

Maxima Sc1 is your friend

All of my chassis bolts on my bike either have loctite, grease, or anti seize on them

Di electric grease is always a good practice for the electrical connectors, especially with modern four strokes.

Motor wise, take your time and take pictures of anything you feel uncertain of for reference when you put it back together.

Realize and accept you are a bad one now and take your time to do it exactly how the service manual says to do it. Over time youll become faster and may not need the manual except for torque specs.

Every time I frame my bike and put it back together I’ve found it’s very useful to use a paint marker on every single (critical) bolt head when torqued.

and set your goals a little higher....you need to change the title to "Tips to becoming a GREAT Mechanic

There's an old saying....Aim for the Stars! even if you miss you might still make it to the Moon!

Purchase two-dozen 10MM sockets. Only loan out tools you don’t mind giving away. Buy the most expensive, durable tools you can afford. Buy a WD-40 spray bottle and a gallon can of WD40 to refill - pour to side ( thanks to whoever here, told me that) . Don’t attempt to change a KX-60 rear tire, under any conditions. In fact, stay clear of all tire changes. Or, buy a thousand tubes. I’ve never used the 11/32 wrench, doubt you’ll ever need that. Wear gloves when tightening sprocket-bolts. Stock your garage fridge well, buy the good shit.

We call them slip marks. Very important its only applied the second after it’s torqued. Some bolts you really just dont want to come out when jumping etc. 😂

Learn to step back and take a break if you start getting frustrated. If you continue, bad things usually happen.

Natures lock-tite

T handles

The universal unit for bolt torque is ugga duggas

Someone already said this but I want to explain it a little more. Never put a bolt in and leave it finger tight and tell yourself you'll tighten it after you do something else. If it can't be tightened during the process you are currently doing then leave the bolt completely out or if it has to be started, just barely start it so it is noticeably sticking out. I've seen people leave stuff loose all the time and then afterwards they remember why it was loose. If you put a bolt in, tighten it. Also, loctite is way overused by beginner mechanics. Only time loctite should be needed is in a steel/steel situation. If it is a race bike that gets checked over/rebuilt every race then loctite isn't really needed for anything unless something specific calls for it. Even inside the engine, there are certain bolts that get loctite but the majority don't and the ones that don't should get a dab of lube. It is a common misunderstanding that putting lube on a bolt will make it come loose

Do it as a hobby not a job!!!