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With tracks reopening again, it seems like we are finally able to ride again. The reason i started this topic is to gather some tips on how to properly set up your bike. What are some good tips and tricks that doesn’ cost any money, suspension wise.
I’d usually put all clickers about in the middle and start from there, if you have high speed comp on shock start at like 1 1/2 maybe 2 turns out.
If you are a forgetful person write down changes you make and where it was originally that way you can go back if don’t like it.
The Shop
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/rocky-mountain-atv-mc-keefer-test…
Ensure forks are installed properly
- Level
- Parallel
- Torqued to spec
Ensure linkage is greased and working properly
If your spring rates are off or you haven't had your suspension rebuilt within 30 hours of riding you can get a lot of performance for relatively cheap with proper spring rates and QUALITY fresh fluids.
Suppose you bottom out on one jump on the track where you tend to over-jump but your suspension works good everywhere else. Would you be more inclined to add 10 cc of oil or stiffen your compression?
Related to this... is over-jumping and flat-landing, let's say a 65' tabletop, pretty much always going to result in an ankle-jarring, wrist bending, neck snapping experience or will really good suspension suck it up?
But ill let others chime in as well.
Yes if setup properly, you should have excellent bottoming control, providing the setup does its job in the 1st part of the stroke. It also doesn't blow through on smaller hits, yet still has comfort staying up through those obstacles. The first 6" of travel basically is where we like to see setups excell; provided springs ar correct for rider/terrain, bottoming will be improved as well.
It’s much easier to change the clickers then add and remove oil all because 1 jump at 1 track.
Best thing to do is set your race sag. Find a vet class racer that is close to your speed and ask them to ride your bike.
I'm only 34 I've been riding and racing my whole life, if people ask me to ride and then set up their bike I am more than happy to set the sag and turn the clickers where I think works best. Most of the time I don't volunteer to help people unless they are broken down just because I don't want to offend someone.
Who on vital lives close to OP and can get him set up?
Also remember that if your suspension is set up properly it WILL and SHOULD bottom on the largest obstacle on the track, not wrist breaking clank but a normal bottom, this means you are using all 12 inches of the travel!!! If you are trying to tune for only one obstacle, and one that you are making a mistake on by OJing it, i think you will be chasing a setting that could make it worse everywhere else... suspension will never be perfect everywhere it will always require a compromise somewhere!
I'm on my Husky 125 with Factory Connection suspension and I was trying to not let my much faster son on his much faster KTM 250 SX-F pass me, so I was on the gas harder than I should've been for this jump, plus I was off to the left which- as it turns out- has a steeper, taller ramp so I _sailed_ out there!!! I over-shot the whole jump, saw the flat-land coming, revved it hard so I'd pull on the soft dirt landing, and soaked it up as well as I could, but OOOF!!!!! Today, my 58-year old knee is hurting a little bit when I climb up the stairs.
But I held the position!!!! For one more corner, anyway.
I should learn to scrub but old dog, new trick.
Pit Row
Thanks!!!
Got a lot of good info from this topic. Edpecially the keefer podcast, should have checked it in the first place.
Another question: my weight is around 85kg.
Should the stock spring be ok for my weight?
Did you noticed a big difference putting the 5.4 rear spring on. Compared to the 4.9 stock?
2. Correct sag
3. Reasonable fork height
4. Get your rebound bracketed first. You can not even start to dial in compression till your rebound is in the correct range.
With the 5.4 rear spring I don't notice a huge difference over the 4.9, just better bottoming resistance. With the 4.9 spring I'm around 28mm static sag, the 5.4 is around 37mm static sag. Both within the window of being an acceptable rate, just at either end of the spectrum
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