Posts
2827
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
Thousand Oaks, CA
US
Edited Date/Time
4/6/2022 4:45am
After 5 years on the smokey YZ, decided to give one of these a shot... 
I am super excited to get into a new 4-stroke! Last one I owned was an '06 RMZ. Every other one I've ridden since have been a few laps here and there on buddies' bikes. Never rode the new design CRF, but damn she is beautiful! Can't wait to get out to the track this weekend and start figuring it out.
Suspension will be revalved and setup for me in a couple weeks. Maybe some different bars will go on it and that's it (at least for awhile).
Just a question... Any taller guys running the forward clamp position? I'm 6'1" and it feels pretty good in stock position sitting on it. I'll just run it for now and mess with it later.
I am super excited to get into a new 4-stroke! Last one I owned was an '06 RMZ. Every other one I've ridden since have been a few laps here and there on buddies' bikes. Never rode the new design CRF, but damn she is beautiful! Can't wait to get out to the track this weekend and start figuring it out.
Suspension will be revalved and setup for me in a couple weeks. Maybe some different bars will go on it and that's it (at least for awhile).
Just a question... Any taller guys running the forward clamp position? I'm 6'1" and it feels pretty good in stock position sitting on it. I'll just run it for now and mess with it later.
Struggled with the bike oversteering, went flush on forks, problem solved, you’ve got a big range with fork height and sag and the bike responds noticeably.
Personally I really like the stock bar bend. Position wise I immediately went to forward hole, mounts flipped back, then on a whim after many hours returned to back hole flipped forward and realized that was way better for cornering. If you get a bar with more sweep maybe that forward hole is good. I’m 5’ 10”, but short legs and long torso/arms.
The Shop
Me, personally, I ran stock bars and rear position (on Xtrig mounts) for a while then went to a Windham Fatbar. I also added some Pro Pegs and System Tech Racing lowered peg mounts. Doesn’t need lowered mounts stock, but pro pegs have a slight upsweep so they kind of even out. Bars still in rear mounts. I lean back a lot and seems to be less touchy than the forward position.
I’m 6’6” and it’s the best thumper I’ve ridden since i had a ‘12 RMZ.
Once you get the suspension dialed, it stupid how comfortable that bike can be. I use to think map 3 was too touchy but now it’s all I ride. Kinda want a touch more from low to mid but I like gearing I have (14/53).
But yeah, there are a few other touches but mainly bars, grips and suspension are all she really needs 👍
P.s. this particular specimen appears to like VPR. Seems to clean up/mask the very few limitations of the stock maps fwiw.
After initial setup, I went from .56 to .58 springs up front while putting the fork height from +5 to zero. At first I thought it was too firm/high up, but this running 110mm of sag with a 6.3 in back really keeps it connected and balanced the faster you go or the rougher it gets.
Especially with the rear axle a tad towards the rear, it’s insanely stable. I did cut down on the fork compression, I think like 18 or 20 out. It lets the spring do all the hold up and ride duties while keeping the valving mellow enough without diving.
I’ve always been a KYB snob but I’ve never really ridden anything for a considerable amount of time that uses 49mm showas. Especially the newer stuff.
I kinda see what I’ve been missing for 8-10 years haha.
Good to go! Ride report incoming in a day or 2... Then another one after the suspension gets done.
congrats man, got to enjoy bringing my first ever brand new bike home today too (gasgas 450) - its a nice feeling.
Pros:
-Smooth and strong power bottom to top. I rode almost every lap between 3rd and 4th gear, occasional 2nd for an inside rut. I'd probably feel the same on any 450 compared to my old bike, but whatever. This bike just feels like it has power at any RPM. It's ready to go, but doesn't rip your arms off unless you really ask it too. Map 1, TC 1 all day, didn't mess with it.
-Best cornering I've ever felt on a dirtbike. You think it, it does it. Berms, ruts, cutting down early off a berm, whatever! It just goes where you're looking. I've never put so little effort into the handlebars in a corner on any bike. It's a dream!
-No twitchy weirdness out of the chassis. I started with the forks flush and I couldn't imagine it being any better. To be fair though, this was a slow day at LACR and only small bumps and holes developed. I could imagine Glen Helen being a lot different.
-Yes, the rider triangle is perfect. Everyone says it is. It is. I'm 6'1", it feels great. The more aggressive I got, the better the peg/seat/bar relationship felt. When you come into a corner and sit down, you're always in the right position. Stock bars feel great, but I'm still going to try my usual 996 bend to see if I'm missing anything.
-Lightweight feeling. Just flickable and easy to maneuver in general.
Cons:
-Front fork. That mid valving... are there bricks in there? Whoops, jumps... Doesn't matter if you're doing everything right, your hands will hurt on every hit/landing. It feels like it is bottoming at mid-stroke. It's bad. My much faster friend took it out for a few laps and came back saying the same. Bike feels amazing everywhere, until you land a jump.
Don't know yet:
-Shock. The fork was so distracting all I can really say about the shock is that it felt "normal". That's it. It didn't do anything weird. It wasn't harsh, it didn't kick, the rear never stepped out. It did it's job today, but I wonder what would become apparent on a different track or with a fork that has a half decent valving stack.
I'll probably race it in a couple weeks with just some clicker adjustments, then the suspension is coming off for some work.
The shock is pretty good though. It’s just hard to tell because the fork is sprung soft with light compression valving in combination with a stiff midvalve.
Don’t try and tune it out, you won’t. Start with springing it to your weight but you’ll probably end up doing a revalve anyway.
My advice: keep the forks flush and try 110 on the sag as a starting point.
It’s hard to tell because I have my rear axle back but it’s very stable at speed but will still dive inside just about damn near anything if you do your part 👍
But yeah, spring it for you, set sag and go from there. I assure you, it only gets better as everything breaks in and you start making adjustments 🙂
Another note, I didn't even check my sag today. I did already have the forks adjusted flush and it was never twitchy. Wouldn't be surprised if it's already about 110. I'll be setting sag next ride and probably add a couple clicks of compression to the front just to keep it out of the mid stroke a bit (just to get by for that weekend).
I was running 100-105 at first and it was stink bugging everywhere and I went down the rabbit hole of messing with clickers all over the place.
I said, “I’m running a 6.3 in the back… dial it down.” So I went back to Pro Action’s base settings and to 110 in the rear. After that and taking about a half turn out on the high speed… perfection 👌
I was debating getting a linkage for it but running “excessive” sag seemed to do the trick.
Pit Row
My plan was to ride it break it in and then see how I feel about it, I am coming off a stock 2018 CRF that I love so hopefully this can compare to that at some point.
For what it’s worth at 185lbs Enzo (Craig D.) kept stock spring rate. The negative traits go away once your front end is firmed up. Sag numbers: 105 is the most I’ll run, closer to 103 (with flush forks) works well at most tracks.
Any tips on shock removal? I'm just going to start taking the whole back end/subframe off and go from there, but if there is anything weird I should I know about I appreciate any comments! Took my YZ down to the frame several times, but obviously that was much more simple.
As far as sag goes, I'll start at 105 with the forks flush when everything is back together, then go from there. I prefer more stability, and even if I went 110+ sag this bike would still turn better than my old YZ!
The earlier comment on using up 1/3 of the travel for sag... Not everything is a bump and traction is important.
Are the forks really that bad? I love the current Showa 49mm’s.
I know that sounds dramatic though. I will reiterate that I had a blast riding the bike. I'm still just a Vet C rider, so it isn't like I demand top tier equipment. The forks are the only negative thing I have to say about the bike, and they will be fixed in short order. No engine/performance parts. Slapping some numbers on and going racing.
Garbage stock valving and too soft fork springs, but good god they are amazing once to get it set up.
When I sit to set sag, I do it slightly to the rear of the bike (because I’m taller and tend to not get center or forward unless in a turn).
If I sat center, it might be closer to 105-107. Just when I set sag, I figure why not set it for where I spend most of the time riding?
Idk if it’s “right” or not, but it’s served me great so far.
I can't wait to see how it feels this weekend. He noted to start at 105mm sag, but try it closer to 100mm as well and find the sweet spot.
Also of note to my earlier question on shock removal... You don't need to remove the whole back end to get it out. Take out the bottom bolts of the subframe, loosen the top bolts, take the muffler off, take the ECU cover off, and you can squeeze it out the right side.
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