Should have got a 350 years ago...

10/15/2020 11:44am
AngryBear wrote:
the one with the larger intake
Yessir, Pain In The Ass to install the intake! I have to think the re-map did the most good, but getting better flow on the cheap as Carlino Joe detailed can't hurt! Ill be back at the track this weekend. Must..Do..More..Testing!!
I haven't had this much fun on a bike in years. Not dogging my '04 RM250, but damn the 350 is fun.
1
sandman768
Posts
6096
Joined
3/21/2014
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY US
10/16/2020 3:21pm
Just heard back from Twisted Development... can’t remap the stock EcU on the 21”s... locked, need to use KTM”s software? Which is not available yet? Guess I will run it stock👍
1
1
captmoto
Posts
5153
Joined
4/22/2009
Location
Rancho Cucamonga, CA US
10/16/2020 7:42pm
sandman768 wrote:
Just heard back from Twisted Development... can’t remap the stock EcU on the 21”s... locked, need to use KTM”s software? Which is not available yet? Guess...
Just heard back from Twisted Development... can’t remap the stock EcU on the 21”s... locked, need to use KTM”s software? Which is not available yet? Guess I will run it stock👍
Well that sucks. If I were in the market for a new bike that would make me shy away from KTM/Husky and I have a Husky now.
ktmdan
Posts
1220
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
Houston, TX US
10/16/2020 8:46pm
ktmdan wrote:
Thanks. I’m honestly not that knowledgeable with suspension. My thought is, if I had spring forks, I could take them anywhere for a revalve and everyone...
Thanks. I’m honestly not that knowledgeable with suspension. My thought is, if I had spring forks, I could take them anywhere for a revalve and everyone would use the exact same spring rate for me. With that logic, why would I increase my air pressure by 20 psi for the race tech setup? I’m going to try dropping the air back to 135 and turning the clickers out pretty far and see how it feels. FYI I’m not saying the Gold valves are bad I’m just saying I really can’t tell a difference yet over stock, and I thought stock was pretty damn good.

Im 180lb, fast A level off-road and I rarely ride Mx so I’m not sure our setting would match but I’d be curious to have a peek.
AH387 wrote:
As far as having to run the higher PSI w/ Race Tech, I believe it is to compensate for the fork being more free-flowing. I'm not...
As far as having to run the higher PSI w/ Race Tech, I believe it is to compensate for the fork being more free-flowing. I'm not sure if you can directly relate what you would have done with a spring fork vs how it works with the AER. I do get what you are saying but I just don't think that is 100% relative.
Anyways, something to try, I'll send you a PM.
I’ll continue as devils advocate for the sake of trying to understand. The air side is merely an air spring, where the pressure is inversely related to volume. Multiply the pressure by area and you get force. Similarly the spring constant times distance gives you the force of the spring. I know they aren’t the same but there are parallels.
I can’t think of a reason to alter ‘spring rate’. You would never do that with a real spring. Is there some inherent flaw or difference with air forks that I don’t understand?

Im way off in the weeds here. Wish I could just take the race take classes..

The Shop

tek14
Posts
4592
Joined
1/26/2014
Location
Vantaa FI
10/16/2020 11:07pm
sandman768 wrote:
Just heard back from Twisted Development... can’t remap the stock EcU on the 21”s... locked, need to use KTM”s software? Which is not available yet? Guess...
Just heard back from Twisted Development... can’t remap the stock EcU on the 21”s... locked, need to use KTM”s software? Which is not available yet? Guess I will run it stock👍
Software is out but you need to buy that KTM optional bar pad that have wifi/bluetooth connector. Phone app called myKTM and its at App Store. Havent seen any info about price of that new bad pad yet.
1
Motofinne
Posts
10691
Joined
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Location
FI
10/16/2020 11:17pm
sandman768 wrote:
Just heard back from Twisted Development... can’t remap the stock EcU on the 21”s... locked, need to use KTM”s software? Which is not available yet? Guess...
Just heard back from Twisted Development... can’t remap the stock EcU on the 21”s... locked, need to use KTM”s software? Which is not available yet? Guess I will run it stock👍
tek14 wrote:
Software is out but you need to buy that KTM optional bar pad that have wifi/bluetooth connector. Phone app called myKTM and its at App Store...
Software is out but you need to buy that KTM optional bar pad that have wifi/bluetooth connector. Phone app called myKTM and its at App Store. Havent seen any info about price of that new bad pad yet.
Gotta say, the implementation of that is so bad for being a KTM product. The barpad looks ugly and it makes it impossible to run a handlebar with a crossbar (Twinwall, Fuzion etc). I don't understand why they didn't do a small WiFi unit like Yamaha and the GET WiFi unit?

I would much rather just buy a GET ECU with the WiFi unit for probably a couple of hundreds more.
4
tek14
Posts
4592
Joined
1/26/2014
Location
Vantaa FI
10/16/2020 11:33pm
sandman768 wrote:
Just heard back from Twisted Development... can’t remap the stock EcU on the 21”s... locked, need to use KTM”s software? Which is not available yet? Guess...
Just heard back from Twisted Development... can’t remap the stock EcU on the 21”s... locked, need to use KTM”s software? Which is not available yet? Guess I will run it stock👍
tek14 wrote:
Software is out but you need to buy that KTM optional bar pad that have wifi/bluetooth connector. Phone app called myKTM and its at App Store...
Software is out but you need to buy that KTM optional bar pad that have wifi/bluetooth connector. Phone app called myKTM and its at App Store. Havent seen any info about price of that new bad pad yet.
Motofinne wrote:
Gotta say, the implementation of that is so bad for being a KTM product. The barpad looks ugly and it makes it impossible to run a...
Gotta say, the implementation of that is so bad for being a KTM product. The barpad looks ugly and it makes it impossible to run a handlebar with a crossbar (Twinwall, Fuzion etc). I don't understand why they didn't do a small WiFi unit like Yamaha and the GET WiFi unit?

I would much rather just buy a GET ECU with the WiFi unit for probably a couple of hundreds more.
Have to agree on this one. Way Yamaha included in everybike and hide it below seat is much better. I guess its about profit and they wanted to sell piece to cover cost making app and so on. I think you can make surgery on new bad pad and relocate wifi behind number plate where it connects bike.
sandman768
Posts
6096
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Location
Saratoga Springs, NY US
10/17/2020 6:05am
sandman768 wrote:
Just heard back from Twisted Development... can’t remap the stock EcU on the 21”s... locked, need to use KTM”s software? Which is not available yet? Guess...
Just heard back from Twisted Development... can’t remap the stock EcU on the 21”s... locked, need to use KTM”s software? Which is not available yet? Guess I will run it stock👍
captmoto wrote:
Well that sucks. If I were in the market for a new bike that would make me shy away from KTM/Husky and I have a Husky...
Well that sucks. If I were in the market for a new bike that would make me shy away from KTM/Husky and I have a Husky now.
It runs strong on the stock map #2, but you know, we always looking for more!
Oldmxer95
Posts
121
Joined
7/23/2010
Location
Wenatchee, WA US
10/17/2020 7:13am
Just brought home a 21 Husky FX350. Can’t wait to go riding tomorrow.
19
AH387
Posts
1337
Joined
8/29/2019
Location
Bridgeville, PA US
10/17/2020 1:50pm
ktmdan wrote:
I’ll continue as devils advocate for the sake of trying to understand. The air side is merely an air spring, where the pressure is inversely related...
I’ll continue as devils advocate for the sake of trying to understand. The air side is merely an air spring, where the pressure is inversely related to volume. Multiply the pressure by area and you get force. Similarly the spring constant times distance gives you the force of the spring. I know they aren’t the same but there are parallels.
I can’t think of a reason to alter ‘spring rate’. You would never do that with a real spring. Is there some inherent flaw or difference with air forks that I don’t understand?

Im way off in the weeds here. Wish I could just take the race take classes..
Im no suspension guru but I look at it like your typical spring fork is set up to be adjusted mainly by clickers, with whatever spring is in there. The AER isnt necessarily set in stone on a "spring rate" as it us encouraged to use a combination of varying air pressure and clickers to get the desired feel. The Race Tech stuff obviously loosens up the action of the fork, so I'm assuming they recommend increasing the psi to compensate. There has to be a reason or they wouldnt suggest it. If i ran my RT forks now at what i was running stock 145-7ish, id probably have terrible hold-up and be blowing through the mid stroke way too easily. Running 155 the RT forks still moves initially more than stock valving at 145 but firms up deeper into stroke.. I would suggest not over thinking it or tunnel visioning into what you do for a conventional fork and just see where you end up, for what feels right for you. Luckily, i have a long time relationship with MPR and he just knows how to get the bikes where i want it and only require small tweaks once i start riding.
1
ktmdan
Posts
1220
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Location
Houston, TX US
10/17/2020 6:06pm
AH387 wrote:
Im no suspension guru but I look at it like your typical spring fork is set up to be adjusted mainly by clickers, with whatever spring...
Im no suspension guru but I look at it like your typical spring fork is set up to be adjusted mainly by clickers, with whatever spring is in there. The AER isnt necessarily set in stone on a "spring rate" as it us encouraged to use a combination of varying air pressure and clickers to get the desired feel. The Race Tech stuff obviously loosens up the action of the fork, so I'm assuming they recommend increasing the psi to compensate. There has to be a reason or they wouldnt suggest it. If i ran my RT forks now at what i was running stock 145-7ish, id probably have terrible hold-up and be blowing through the mid stroke way too easily. Running 155 the RT forks still moves initially more than stock valving at 145 but firms up deeper into stroke.. I would suggest not over thinking it or tunnel visioning into what you do for a conventional fork and just see where you end up, for what feels right for you. Luckily, i have a long time relationship with MPR and he just knows how to get the bikes where i want it and only require small tweaks once i start riding.
I was pounding out sand motos today in a whooped out sand track. Dropped the pressure from 155 to 135. I’ve also backed out the compression considerably. Bike felt solid. Still had about 2.5” of unused fork travel though. Gotta dial in the shock now!
1
Dirtfighter
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202
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7/25/2020
Location
Naples, FL US
10/18/2020 9:03am
Following this thread closely. Just rolled 100hrs on the 450 and it’s time for a freshie. Rode a friends 17 350sx the other day. Was able to shred it on my pit bike track of all places !
I could never do that on my fc450
FGR01
Posts
5115
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10/1/2006
Location
AZ US
Fantasy
1327th
10/18/2020 10:33pm
tek14 wrote:
Software is out but you need to buy that KTM optional bar pad that have wifi/bluetooth connector. Phone app called myKTM and its at App Store...
Software is out but you need to buy that KTM optional bar pad that have wifi/bluetooth connector. Phone app called myKTM and its at App Store. Havent seen any info about price of that new bad pad yet.
Motofinne wrote:
Gotta say, the implementation of that is so bad for being a KTM product. The barpad looks ugly and it makes it impossible to run a...
Gotta say, the implementation of that is so bad for being a KTM product. The barpad looks ugly and it makes it impossible to run a handlebar with a crossbar (Twinwall, Fuzion etc). I don't understand why they didn't do a small WiFi unit like Yamaha and the GET WiFi unit?

I would much rather just buy a GET ECU with the WiFi unit for probably a couple of hundreds more.
tek14 wrote:
Have to agree on this one. Way Yamaha included in everybike and hide it below seat is much better. I guess its about profit and they...
Have to agree on this one. Way Yamaha included in everybike and hide it below seat is much better. I guess its about profit and they wanted to sell piece to cover cost making app and so on. I think you can make surgery on new bad pad and relocate wifi behind number plate where it connects bike.
I'm thinking/hoping that you won't need to keep the stupid bar pad/wifi unit combo thing on the bike other than when you want to connect to your phone and transfer maps, etc. In other words, just hook it up, do your maps, then disconnect it and throw it in your truck and run the bars/pad you want.
Motofinne
Posts
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FI
10/18/2020 11:13pm Edited Date/Time 10/18/2020 11:18pm
3 hours on the bike by now and i'm very happy, and i haven't even tinkered with the suspension yet (just set the sag to 105 mm). I think i'm pretty much the target weight for the stock suspension (77kg/169lb) so that might be one reason for the suspension working surprisingly well out of the box. And btw, the AER fork is definitely underrated.

However i will try a 52 rear sprocket. 51 works well but there is potential to take more turns in 3rd gear without bogging down too much, 52 could be a solution for that.

Unfortunately the winter is soon here, it already snowed for a few minutes at the track yesterday. So there might be one or two rides left before it's time to put riding on hold over the winter.
2
Motofinne
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FI
10/20/2020 10:09pm Edited Date/Time 10/20/2020 10:44pm
I just listened to Keefers first impression podcast of the 2021 350. He talked about going with 98-100mm of sag with KTM bikes, has anyone tried that?
1
TheCRKid
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208
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Location
Bensalem, PA US
10/21/2020 9:44am
Can you guys post or re-post your final drive gearing specs please ?
AH387
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Location
Bridgeville, PA US
10/22/2020 11:37am
TheCRKid wrote:
Can you guys post or re-post your final drive gearing specs please ?
I just run 14/51 on my 17. It (along with other things I have done to mod it) helps just get it spinning a little bit faster. Also, I prefer to try to get the bike into 3rd for jumps, as 2nd sometimes seems to unsettle the chassis when ur open in 2nd (and it kinda leaves jumps front-high.) So for me, 14/51 is a good mix and allows me to get into 3rd for most things, while still letting me make the most of revving 2nd out. I found that where you ride really determines what gearing is best, and also riding preference.
2
erik_94COBRA
Posts
951
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Houston-ish, TX US
10/22/2020 12:26pm
Have tried 14-50/51/52. Stock is 50. Fine for really high speed tracks or off-road. 51 is stock on the ‘20 and wasn’t bad. 52 is nice after removing baffle in muffler and adding Vortex. Now I rarely use 2nd on the track. Will be sticking with 14-52 for awhile.
1
TheCRKid
Posts
208
Joined
7/8/2008
Location
Bensalem, PA US
10/22/2020 12:27pm
TheCRKid wrote:
Can you guys post or re-post your final drive gearing specs please ?
AH387 wrote:
I just run 14/51 on my 17. It (along with other things I have done to mod it) helps just get it spinning a little bit...
I just run 14/51 on my 17. It (along with other things I have done to mod it) helps just get it spinning a little bit faster. Also, I prefer to try to get the bike into 3rd for jumps, as 2nd sometimes seems to unsettle the chassis when ur open in 2nd (and it kinda leaves jumps front-high.) So for me, 14/51 is a good mix and allows me to get into 3rd for most things, while still letting me make the most of revving 2nd out. I found that where you ride really determines what gearing is best, and also riding preference.
Thank you very much !!
Its got a 14/50 on it now and personally I like running in 3rd most of the track like you said
Dropping into second for some corners , just order a 51T rear , ill try that out
1
10/22/2020 12:35pm
AH387 wrote:
[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/10/13/454053/s1200_20201010_212622.jpg[/img]Added a few more things to mine. Only thing I might do to mine is a stock ecu remap. But otherwise, I'm pretty dialed. Ill probably...
Added a few more things to mine. Only thing I might do to mine is a stock ecu remap. But otherwise, I'm pretty dialed. Ill probably keep this bike for a while.
Beautiful looking bike,
2
1
tek14
Posts
4592
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1/26/2014
Location
Vantaa FI
10/23/2020 12:04am
Aussie magazine compared lap times 350 vs 450. Looks like the 350 is better for most recreational riders.
https://adbmag.com.au/editorial/350-vs-450-vbox-lap-time-test/
I can go faster on 450f for couple laps but when track gets rough its just too heavy and will wear you out by end of motos. Maybe 250f is most fun but 350f you can ride every track on everyday. Havent ride modified 350f yet other than just better pipe and mapping but would be nice to build one that rips even more.
1
PBRvince
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Location
Palmdale, CA US
Fantasy
1960th
10/23/2020 12:55am
Just bought a '21 ktm 350sx and so far im very happy with it, only put about 2 hours on it so far. Just wondering if theres any tips anybody can give me for this is my first full size 4 stroke bike I've owned. Also I was wondering where I should set my air pressure on the forks. I've been setting it at 125 psi and I'm around 180-185 lbs. Front felt good (I mainly ride and race off-road with some moto mixed in) but the rear felt like a pogo stick it felt like the rebound was way to fast.

Thanks
Motofinne
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FI
10/23/2020 12:58am
PBRvince wrote:
Just bought a '21 ktm 350sx and so far im very happy with it, only put about 2 hours on it so far. Just wondering if...
Just bought a '21 ktm 350sx and so far im very happy with it, only put about 2 hours on it so far. Just wondering if theres any tips anybody can give me for this is my first full size 4 stroke bike I've owned. Also I was wondering where I should set my air pressure on the forks. I've been setting it at 125 psi and I'm around 180-185 lbs. Front felt good (I mainly ride and race off-road with some moto mixed in) but the rear felt like a pogo stick it felt like the rebound was way to fast.

Thanks
125 psi is very low. The valving is not matched to that low of a pressure. Watch this, the WP guy talks about it:

tek14
Posts
4592
Joined
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Location
Vantaa FI
10/23/2020 5:18am
PBRvince wrote:
Just bought a '21 ktm 350sx and so far im very happy with it, only put about 2 hours on it so far. Just wondering if...
Just bought a '21 ktm 350sx and so far im very happy with it, only put about 2 hours on it so far. Just wondering if theres any tips anybody can give me for this is my first full size 4 stroke bike I've owned. Also I was wondering where I should set my air pressure on the forks. I've been setting it at 125 psi and I'm around 180-185 lbs. Front felt good (I mainly ride and race off-road with some moto mixed in) but the rear felt like a pogo stick it felt like the rebound was way to fast.

Thanks
You should be around 145-160psi to be even close what bike is made to do and match rear shock.
If you go lower than that to do enduro type of riding you need to match rear shock for it.
mx510
Posts
1974
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2/26/2011
Location
Gig Harbor, WA US
Fantasy
1707th
10/23/2020 8:22am
Motofinne wrote:
3 hours on the bike by now and i'm very happy, and i haven't even tinkered with the suspension yet (just set the sag to 105...
3 hours on the bike by now and i'm very happy, and i haven't even tinkered with the suspension yet (just set the sag to 105 mm). I think i'm pretty much the target weight for the stock suspension (77kg/169lb) so that might be one reason for the suspension working surprisingly well out of the box. And btw, the AER fork is definitely underrated.

However i will try a 52 rear sprocket. 51 works well but there is potential to take more turns in 3rd gear without bogging down too much, 52 could be a solution for that.

Unfortunately the winter is soon here, it already snowed for a few minutes at the track yesterday. So there might be one or two rides left before it's time to put riding on hold over the winter.
I just put a 52 tooth rear on my 19 350 and love it. I felt it made a bigger difference from 51 to 52 than going from 50 to 51. Really woke up the throttle response.
2
10/23/2020 8:47am
mx510 wrote:
I just put a 52 tooth rear on my 19 350 and love it. I felt it made a bigger difference from 51 to 52 than...
I just put a 52 tooth rear on my 19 350 and love it. I felt it made a bigger difference from 51 to 52 than going from 50 to 51. Really woke up the throttle response.
Not going the 350 route anymore, but i could attest the same thing on my 350 FC 19. 52 tooth made a nice difference being able to carry 3rd gear a lot more and without hurting the top end
RCMXracing
Posts
853
Joined
8/10/2011
Location
N., TX US
10/23/2020 9:19am
Been following this thread as a KTM-450 SXF owner that wants to add a 350 to the stable. I get enough seat time to be in shape to handle the 450 and friends say “why bring a knife to a gunfight?”... “stick with the 450.” But I still want a 350! Would this be a fools errand?

This would be for riding and racing MX. I’ve raced against 350’s and one has yet to pull me on a start. During the race they seem competitive, but if there is a straight, especially sandy, I can grab a handful and it’s like afterburners, just pull away on 450.

I typically ride 2 x a week, sometimes 3, looking for opinions on getting another 450 and keep old one as I rack up hrs, or keep 450 and get a 350. Would there be advantages to riding/racing both bikes as a sort of cross training? Anyone do this?
1
tek14
Posts
4592
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Location
Vantaa FI
10/23/2020 9:56am
RCMXracing wrote:
Been following this thread as a KTM-450 SXF owner that wants to add a 350 to the stable. I get enough seat time to be in...
Been following this thread as a KTM-450 SXF owner that wants to add a 350 to the stable. I get enough seat time to be in shape to handle the 450 and friends say “why bring a knife to a gunfight?”... “stick with the 450.” But I still want a 350! Would this be a fools errand?

This would be for riding and racing MX. I’ve raced against 350’s and one has yet to pull me on a start. During the race they seem competitive, but if there is a straight, especially sandy, I can grab a handful and it’s like afterburners, just pull away on 450.

I typically ride 2 x a week, sometimes 3, looking for opinions on getting another 450 and keep old one as I rack up hrs, or keep 450 and get a 350. Would there be advantages to riding/racing both bikes as a sort of cross training? Anyone do this?
I did have both KTM 350/450 this summer. After riding hours with 450 it made my 350f feel more like 250f. Im not sure if its only good thing and better rider bike during week you want to race weekend. For me it keeps it more fun when you can have bike you want for different tracks or days. Will continue next summer with 250f/350f combo.
2

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