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Riverside, CA
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bad juju
2/9/2019 2:54pm
2/9/2019 2:54pm
Edited Date/Time
2/13/2019 11:14am
I know this is not much, but can you see any differences between these two pics. Its off of an 83 cr250 i am restoring. I have two shocks for it. One has a pro circuit sticker on it and the other has a race tech sticker. They say a pic is worth a thousand words so I'm hoping you see something, thanks.
And it lots like none on the rebound side.
The Shop
You would have to take them apart and measure the shims to be more precise as to each set up.
Without pulling down and measuring you wont know what each is like
I had one like this work well but it was because there was a large bleed hole in the shock piston.
so the top one is a "dual stage" stack with a cross over in it.
The bottom one is a single stage stack.
Ride both and see which one you like... then adjust the stacks from there.
Pit Row
However shim fatigue can be a problem so tapered stacks are better
You could modernize that shock with a newer style piston (maybe gold valve available that isnt from that era) and be really close to a modern shock
No need for a gold valve piston IMO. Work with what is there.
Curious how the shock body looks? And I would suggest lighter wt oil then 10.... Typical shock oil is 2.5 to 5 wt.
2.5 to 5 weight as mentioned
check to see if the body is even anodized
That time would shorten ...then after the 3rd oil change I bought an Ohlins
I guess I rode a lot
Eric Gorr's book touches on the CR125 valving a little bit:
"SHOCK: The rear shock can be modified for better handling on the 1985 to 1988 models. These types of shocks use straight shims. The rebound valve stack has two transition shims, one in the middle and one closest to the piston. Put both transition shims between the number 26 and 27 shim from the piston. After this, the shock will handle square-edged bumps much better. "
Post a reply to: Shock techs please take a look