New 2023 YZ450F

kwoody51
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Wayzata, MN US
10/21/2024 9:09am

Without going back and reading through everything has anyone tried the 24mm offset on the luxon clamps? 

Top of this page @joe846 has a nice review of the 23mm Luxon clamps.  

Everything I have read says the 24mm is too slow/ lazy.  

I have 23.5mm Ride engineering clamps on my ‘23 and like them but really want to try out some luxon as the engineering is quite a bit different. 

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mx317
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10/21/2024 11:13am
Whip wrote:
OK - so 14 hours on this bike now. My god I was going around in circles when trying to set it up. It really does...

OK - so 14 hours on this bike now. My god I was going around in circles when trying to set it up. It really does take 10 hours to bed in.

I wish I had gone to a track with some decent jumps / heavy landings sooner which may have expedited the process.

I understand why some people "give up" on this bike, it is insanely sensitive to setup. I found getting as little tension on the rear spring (preload) as possible then working with the high speed to get the ride height right.

I have the forks 1mm from flush. 110 sag (but a really heavy spring). Best upgrade I have made was the -5 down -5 back Raptor pegs. (I am 6 foot 1). It's surprising how I hated the seat to start off with now I think it's perfect.

Because the bike is FAST I have found the rear tyre PSI shoots up a lot mid-moto. Dropping the pressure pre-moto (with the suspension bedded in) has made this bike buttery smooth.

Finally I found tightening the stem nut as a cheap steep damper made a big difference with helping with any lingering twitchiness.

Welcome any comments/criticism/suggestions of my approach above.

I have the 2025 knuckler & engine mounts on the way and will try a softer shock spring to see how that goes too.

IMG 3853IMG 3854 0.png?VersionId=g8zU8nsZPWvY84bx5q3
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Luxon MX
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10/21/2024 4:05pm

Without going back and reading through everything has anyone tried the 24mm offset on the luxon clamps? 

kwoody51 wrote:
Top of this page @joe846 has a nice review of the 23mm Luxon clamps.  Everything I have read says the 24mm is too slow/ lazy.  I...

Top of this page @joe846 has a nice review of the 23mm Luxon clamps.  

Everything I have read says the 24mm is too slow/ lazy.  

I have 23.5mm Ride engineering clamps on my ‘23 and like them but really want to try out some luxon as the engineering is quite a bit different. 

Most people are liking the longer offset on this chassis (stock is 22). 23 or 24 works well and which one is right for you is really personal preference, bike setup, and rider/terrain dependent. That's one of the reasons we made our Gen3 Pro clamps adjustable offset. We also have our Gen3 standard clamps in a fixed offset available in 23.5 mm. We went with 23.5 because some people liked 23 and others preferred 24, so we just split the difference (it would be an inventory nightmare to have all offsets available). 

2
joe846
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Orinda, CA US
10/24/2024 7:12pm

Trying 11mm front master from 2015 WR450 soon, with stock line and caliper, and Braketech floating front rotor.  Using a Yamaha larger master because the Honda and Brembo both attached the brake line in the back, and depending on how you run your lever the banjo bolt hits the bar. Yamaha ones still mounts in the front.

Been running the BrakeTech rotor with all other items stock, which improved feel (slightly less on and off), and definitely helped with brake fade in long downhill test, but the brakes are still pretty on and off without much ability to modulate, and overall still feel pretty spongy. 

Hoping the larger master will improve feel. In my experience a stiffer caliper helps with power, but the master is what helps with feel and modulation.

 Will report back!

IMG 3019IMG 0494 5
3

The Shop

joe846
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10/25/2024 3:00pm Edited Date/Time 10/25/2024 3:28pm

Rode with the 11mm master cylinder today for about an hour off-road and it’s markedly better than the OEM 8 or 9mm.  I don’t see going back.

I would say that if you want immediate stopping power and you like your brake to be more of an on and off switch, this will not be the ticket.

With this set up, not only did I have to adjust my lever several threads further away from the bar, but also the longer and stronger you pull the more stopping power you get. You can definitely really get in to the front end and pull harder and harder. Think it gives you a lot more feel and definitely easier to modulate in ruts. 

I know I only have an hour on this, but I think this might be the best mod I’ve made to the bike (first is hinson inner hub and  second was Luxon 23mm clamps/bar mounts. Enzo suspension has been great too but I have to do suspension on every bike, so…). 

 Wish I would’ve tried this 30 or 40 hours ago, instead of trying the Brembo. I use the exact part numbers from Keefers website and the banjo bolt head sat square against the bars, even with the lever relatively flat. At the end of the day this and the Brembo are both 11 mm plungers, and I don’t think quality of build is as important on the master cylinders as it is on the calipers.

Along those lines, another benefit to this mod is its pretty cheap (cheaper than CRF and Brembo). I used master, lever (from works connection) and cover. You could use a cheap tusk lever if you wanted too and whole thing would be roughly $156 + tax for massive difference in feel. 
 
RMATV part #’s:

Cover: 131204001988

tusk lever: 1166210007

Lever bolt: 131204004799

Flange nut: 131204004249

Master: 131204013485
 

1
kwoody51
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10/25/2024 5:03pm
joe846 wrote:
Rode with the 11mm master cylinder today for about an hour off-road and it’s markedly better than the OEM 8 or 9mm.  I don’t see going...

Rode with the 11mm master cylinder today for about an hour off-road and it’s markedly better than the OEM 8 or 9mm.  I don’t see going back.

I would say that if you want immediate stopping power and you like your brake to be more of an on and off switch, this will not be the ticket.

With this set up, not only did I have to adjust my lever several threads further away from the bar, but also the longer and stronger you pull the more stopping power you get. You can definitely really get in to the front end and pull harder and harder. Think it gives you a lot more feel and definitely easier to modulate in ruts. 

I know I only have an hour on this, but I think this might be the best mod I’ve made to the bike (first is hinson inner hub and  second was Luxon 23mm clamps/bar mounts. Enzo suspension has been great too but I have to do suspension on every bike, so…). 

 Wish I would’ve tried this 30 or 40 hours ago, instead of trying the Brembo. I use the exact part numbers from Keefers website and the banjo bolt head sat square against the bars, even with the lever relatively flat. At the end of the day this and the Brembo are both 11 mm plungers, and I don’t think quality of build is as important on the master cylinders as it is on the calipers.

Along those lines, another benefit to this mod is its pretty cheap (cheaper than CRF and Brembo). I used master, lever (from works connection) and cover. You could use a cheap tusk lever if you wanted too and whole thing would be roughly $156 + tax for massive difference in feel. 
 
RMATV part #’s:

Cover: 131204001988

tusk lever: 1166210007

Lever bolt: 131204004799

Flange nut: 131204004249

Master: 131204013485
 

Thanks for the detailed review!


I did an 07+ CRF master, 06 YZ caliper and SS line on mine and have about 2 hours on it.  

Like you I really enjoy the greater modulation vs the stock setup, which I thought lacked modulation.  

1
CarlinoJoeVideo
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10/25/2024 7:18pm
joe846 wrote:
Rode with the 11mm master cylinder today for about an hour off-road and it’s markedly better than the OEM 8 or 9mm.  I don’t see going...

Rode with the 11mm master cylinder today for about an hour off-road and it’s markedly better than the OEM 8 or 9mm.  I don’t see going back.

I would say that if you want immediate stopping power and you like your brake to be more of an on and off switch, this will not be the ticket.

With this set up, not only did I have to adjust my lever several threads further away from the bar, but also the longer and stronger you pull the more stopping power you get. You can definitely really get in to the front end and pull harder and harder. Think it gives you a lot more feel and definitely easier to modulate in ruts. 

I know I only have an hour on this, but I think this might be the best mod I’ve made to the bike (first is hinson inner hub and  second was Luxon 23mm clamps/bar mounts. Enzo suspension has been great too but I have to do suspension on every bike, so…). 

 Wish I would’ve tried this 30 or 40 hours ago, instead of trying the Brembo. I use the exact part numbers from Keefers website and the banjo bolt head sat square against the bars, even with the lever relatively flat. At the end of the day this and the Brembo are both 11 mm plungers, and I don’t think quality of build is as important on the master cylinders as it is on the calipers.

Along those lines, another benefit to this mod is its pretty cheap (cheaper than CRF and Brembo). I used master, lever (from works connection) and cover. You could use a cheap tusk lever if you wanted too and whole thing would be roughly $156 + tax for massive difference in feel. 
 
RMATV part #’s:

Cover: 131204001988

tusk lever: 1166210007

Lever bolt: 131204004799

Flange nut: 131204004249

Master: 131204013485
 

kwoody51 wrote:
Thanks for the detailed review!I did an 07+ CRF master, 06 YZ caliper and SS line on mine and have about 2 hours on it.  Like...

Thanks for the detailed review!


I did an 07+ CRF master, 06 YZ caliper and SS line on mine and have about 2 hours on it.  

Like you I really enjoy the greater modulation vs the stock setup, which I thought lacked modulation.  

+1 I like the 07 master and brembo mod. Tons of modulation in ruts, I like it way more than stock on/off feel.

Whip
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10/28/2024 5:23am

Anybody have a map/settings for a full Akrapovic system? Or should I just run the "magic map"?

the kid 857
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10/28/2024 8:54am
Whip wrote:

Anybody have a map/settings for a full Akrapovic system? Or should I just run the "magic map"?

IMG 9920.png?VersionId=eZE5GeaV
kwoody51
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Wayzata, MN US
10/28/2024 9:21am

I tried the ‘25 front engine mounts over the weekend- highly recommended!

Normally I would get finger/ hand tingles at ~12-13 min with the updates mounts I didn’t notice any tingling.  

I can’t say I noticed anything different in the corners but it might have been better.  The tingling was a major change and something I was wondering how I could fix as it limited my ability to ride longer.  

1
Saz
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EP, TX US
10/28/2024 10:10am

Anyone have indepth pictures of the differences between the 2024 to 2025 fork? Like with cartridges, amd maybe valving?

mx317
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10/29/2024 6:35am Edited Date/Time 10/29/2024 6:35am
Saz wrote:

Anyone have indepth pictures of the differences between the 2024 to 2025 fork? Like with cartridges, amd maybe valving?

I posted the new valving specs above. FC has some photos on their site of the Delta valve.

2
Saz
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10/30/2024 9:51am
Saz wrote:

Anyone have indepth pictures of the differences between the 2024 to 2025 fork? Like with cartridges, amd maybe valving?

mx317 wrote:

I posted the new valving specs above. FC has some photos on their site of the Delta valve.

Thank you so much. 

joe846
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Orinda, CA US
1 day ago

Finally doing top end at 60 hours. 

Some marks at the front of the cylinder and in piston skirt, but nothing else odd. Cross hatching still looks great, valves haven’t moved at all the whole time (last measurement was 24 hours), rod moves as expected and same as last time I took the cylinder off, and no issues taking it apart of putting it back together. Only challenge is the cam chain tensioner which is a pain to put back in solo.  

Just sharing in case people are thinking about durability, etc. 

IMG 0530 3IMG 0528.jpeg?VersionId=IuQdvE0jt8mYAj0cVlE2wGfB5d308TdIMG 0531 1IMG 0532.jpeg?VersionId=.XPNMJNNBtBsPqYu1UBkhe312 KBIMG 0533 0.jpeg?VersionId=nVTjfh3RDWhkmIMG 0527 1
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JoshyPoo312
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1 day ago
joe846 wrote:
Finally doing top end at 60 hours. Some marks at the front of the cylinder and in piston skirt, but nothing else odd. Cross hatching still looks...

Finally doing top end at 60 hours. 

Some marks at the front of the cylinder and in piston skirt, but nothing else odd. Cross hatching still looks great, valves haven’t moved at all the whole time (last measurement was 24 hours), rod moves as expected and same as last time I took the cylinder off, and no issues taking it apart of putting it back together. Only challenge is the cam chain tensioner which is a pain to put back in solo.  

Just sharing in case people are thinking about durability, etc. 

IMG 0530 3IMG 0528.jpeg?VersionId=IuQdvE0jt8mYAj0cVlE2wGfB5d308TdIMG 0531 1IMG 0532.jpeg?VersionId=.XPNMJNNBtBsPqYu1UBkhe312 KBIMG 0533 0.jpeg?VersionId=nVTjfh3RDWhkmIMG 0527 1

Just did mine last week @56hr. Same story as you. Piston looked great, cross-hatching in tact, and cam chain tensioner was a pain in the ass lol. After doing it, I would be comfortable running one to 75-100 hours. I will say, first ride this thing feels brand new again! Very happy with ease of install using OEM parts. 

1
joe846
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1 day ago Edited Date/Time 1 day ago
joe846 wrote:
Finally doing top end at 60 hours. Some marks at the front of the cylinder and in piston skirt, but nothing else odd. Cross hatching still looks...

Finally doing top end at 60 hours. 

Some marks at the front of the cylinder and in piston skirt, but nothing else odd. Cross hatching still looks great, valves haven’t moved at all the whole time (last measurement was 24 hours), rod moves as expected and same as last time I took the cylinder off, and no issues taking it apart of putting it back together. Only challenge is the cam chain tensioner which is a pain to put back in solo.  

Just sharing in case people are thinking about durability, etc. 

IMG 0530 3IMG 0528.jpeg?VersionId=IuQdvE0jt8mYAj0cVlE2wGfB5d308TdIMG 0531 1IMG 0532.jpeg?VersionId=.XPNMJNNBtBsPqYu1UBkhe312 KBIMG 0533 0.jpeg?VersionId=nVTjfh3RDWhkmIMG 0527 1
Just did mine last week @56hr. Same story as you. Piston looked great, cross-hatching in tact, and cam chain tensioner was a pain in the ass...

Just did mine last week @56hr. Same story as you. Piston looked great, cross-hatching in tact, and cam chain tensioner was a pain in the ass lol. After doing it, I would be comfortable running one to 75-100 hours. I will say, first ride this thing feels brand new again! Very happy with ease of install using OEM parts. 

Both times I’ve taken the top end apart I’ve wished I had a manual cam chain tensioner! Need to update that Christmas list.

1
mx317
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1 day ago Edited Date/Time 1 day ago
joe846 wrote:

Both times I’ve taken the top end apart I’ve wished I had a manual cam chain tensioner! Need to update that Christmas list.

What is the issue with the adjuster? I haven't done a newer Yamaha top-end yet, but on the Hondas, Kawasakis, etc you wound the tensioner in and locked it in place with the little T-shaped tool. Then after everything was installed, you pulled the locking tool out and the tensioner would extend. Is this different?

joe846
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1 day ago Edited Date/Time 1 day ago
joe846 wrote:

Both times I’ve taken the top end apart I’ve wished I had a manual cam chain tensioner! Need to update that Christmas list.

mx317 wrote:
What is the issue with the adjuster? I haven't done a newer Yamaha top-end yet, but on the Hondas, Kawasakis, etc you wound the tensioner in...

What is the issue with the adjuster? I haven't done a newer Yamaha top-end yet, but on the Hondas, Kawasakis, etc you wound the tensioner in and locked it in place with the little T-shaped tool. Then after everything was installed, you pulled the locking tool out and the tensioner would extend. Is this different?

Unless I missed it, this style on the yamaha doesn’t have a locking mechanism at the end. You can’t push it or screw it all the way in and have it click and stay.

You have to wind it in with a screwdriver, hold the screwdriver to keep tension on it, slide it into the motor and bolt it all the way down before finally letting go of the screwdriver, all with two hands. 

If I’ve totally missed it and they’re actually is a locking mechanism I’m going to feel pretty dumb!

1
lumpy790
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1 day ago

Its been a while but there was a T shaped tool that held the tensioner in place while you bolted the tensioner in place. Pull out the tool and click its self adjusted.

1
CarlinoJoeVideo
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1 day ago Edited Date/Time 1 day ago

REP just dropped a new link and knuckle. A good leverage chart comparing the 24-25-REP. 

The REP doesn’t need a spring rate change like 24 to 25 knuckle change, but it’s quite progressive at the end of the travel. I think this will really help the bike from riding low and deep without having to run so much compression damping. Hopefully the ramp doesn’t come on too strong.

IMG 4521 1IMG 4524 1
joe846
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1 day ago
lumpy790 wrote:
Its been a while but there was a T shaped tool that held the tensioner in place while you bolted the tensioner in place. Pull out...

Its been a while but there was a T shaped tool that held the tensioner in place while you bolted the tensioner in place. Pull out the tool and click its self adjusted.

IMG 0536.png?VersionId=leKrPPBFgDvJgAk
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mx317
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1 day ago

I just put the 25 knuckle on mine last night. I was really needing one step stiffer spring, but when I installed the link my sag numbers came in perfect. I've compared the stacks and the 24 stack is firmer than the 25 and I needed more on my 24, so I'm going to start with the 24 valving and the correct spring and see where I'm at. 

mx317
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1 day ago
joe846 wrote:
IMG 0536.png?VersionId=leKrPPBFgDvJgAk

You see the star shaped notches at the end of the tensioner? That is where the t-shape tool goes in to lock it in place. The slimmer part goes into the screwdriver slot and the T part goes in the notches. I also read where you can just tighten it with the screwdriver and it would hold itself, but I've never did that myself.

 

1
mx317
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1 day ago Edited Date/Time 1 day ago

You can see the T-shape (or key shape here) tool that comes with a new tensioner.

tus 24 cam cam cha ten-2109290001 0.jpg?VersionId=YjUaIChXNJeCUdy54cqjjgK9YHoX
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joe846
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1 day ago
mx317 wrote:
You can see the T-shape (or key shape here) tool that comes with a new tensioner.

You can see the T-shape (or key shape here) tool that comes with a new tensioner.

tus 24 cam cam cha ten-2109290001 0.jpg?VersionId=YjUaIChXNJeCUdy54cqjjgK9YHoX

Holy moly I need that little tool!  Thanks!!

crmx105
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Dunnellon, FL US
1 day ago
mx317 wrote:
You can see the T-shape (or key shape here) tool that comes with a new tensioner.

You can see the T-shape (or key shape here) tool that comes with a new tensioner.

tus 24 cam cam cha ten-2109290001 0.jpg?VersionId=YjUaIChXNJeCUdy54cqjjgK9YHoX
joe846 wrote:

Holy moly I need that little tool!  Thanks!!

Honda makes a nice tensioner tool with a thumb wheel on it that locks in place. P/N 07AMG-001A100

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swaldrop
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Tampa, FL US
1 day ago

The best mod you can get for these bikes is a LitPro. It’ll force you to quit acting like a Golf Pro Shop diva and realize that you just need to ride the bike more often, and when you do, do so as if it means something. It will with a LitPro 👍 Way better that that 1/2mm offset change lol

1
2
lumpy790
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York, SC US
23 hours ago
mx317 wrote:
You can see the T-shape (or key shape here) tool that comes with a new tensioner.

You can see the T-shape (or key shape here) tool that comes with a new tensioner.

tus 24 cam cam cha ten-2109290001 0.jpg?VersionId=YjUaIChXNJeCUdy54cqjjgK9YHoX

Thats it !

FGR01
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20 hours ago

If you don’t have the small tool, you can just wind the screw with a screwdriver and then clamp a small vice grip on the screwdriver to prevent it from winding back in while you tighten the bolts.  

yz133rider
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Avondale, PA US
20 hours ago
swaldrop wrote:
The best mod you can get for these bikes is a LitPro. It’ll force you to quit acting like a Golf Pro Shop diva and realize...

The best mod you can get for these bikes is a LitPro. It’ll force you to quit acting like a Golf Pro Shop diva and realize that you just need to ride the bike more often, and when you do, do so as if it means something. It will with a LitPro 👍 Way better that that 1/2mm offset change lol

Rubbish. It’s always the bike. First rule of vet club. Always blame the bike.

3

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