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Only $10 for all 2024 SX, MX, and SMX series (regularly $30).
Top of this page @joe846 has a nice review of the 23mm Luxon clamps.
Everything I have read says the 24mm is too slow/ lazy.
I have 23.5mm Ride engineering clamps on my ‘23 and like them but really want to try out some luxon as the engineering is quite a bit different.
Most people are liking the longer offset on this chassis (stock is 22). 23 or 24 works well and which one is right for you is really personal preference, bike setup, and rider/terrain dependent. That's one of the reasons we made our Gen3 Pro clamps adjustable offset. We also have our Gen3 standard clamps in a fixed offset available in 23.5 mm. We went with 23.5 because some people liked 23 and others preferred 24, so we just split the difference (it would be an inventory nightmare to have all offsets available).
Trying 11mm front master from 2015 WR450 soon, with stock line and caliper, and Braketech floating front rotor. Using a Yamaha larger master because the Honda and Brembo both attached the brake line in the back, and depending on how you run your lever the banjo bolt hits the bar. Yamaha ones still mounts in the front.
Been running the BrakeTech rotor with all other items stock, which improved feel (slightly less on and off), and definitely helped with brake fade in long downhill test, but the brakes are still pretty on and off without much ability to modulate, and overall still feel pretty spongy.
Hoping the larger master will improve feel. In my experience a stiffer caliper helps with power, but the master is what helps with feel and modulation.
Will report back!
The Shop
Rode with the 11mm master cylinder today for about an hour off-road and it’s markedly better than the OEM 8 or 9mm. I don’t see going back.
I would say that if you want immediate stopping power and you like your brake to be more of an on and off switch, this will not be the ticket.
With this set up, not only did I have to adjust my lever several threads further away from the bar, but also the longer and stronger you pull the more stopping power you get. You can definitely really get in to the front end and pull harder and harder. Think it gives you a lot more feel and definitely easier to modulate in ruts.
I know I only have an hour on this, but I think this might be the best mod I’ve made to the bike (first is hinson inner hub and second was Luxon 23mm clamps/bar mounts. Enzo suspension has been great too but I have to do suspension on every bike, so…).
Wish I would’ve tried this 30 or 40 hours ago, instead of trying the Brembo. I use the exact part numbers from Keefers website and the banjo bolt head sat square against the bars, even with the lever relatively flat. At the end of the day this and the Brembo are both 11 mm plungers, and I don’t think quality of build is as important on the master cylinders as it is on the calipers.
Along those lines, another benefit to this mod is its pretty cheap (cheaper than CRF and Brembo). I used master, lever (from works connection) and cover. You could use a cheap tusk lever if you wanted too and whole thing would be roughly $156 + tax for massive difference in feel.
RMATV part #’s:
Cover: 131204001988
tusk lever: 1166210007
Lever bolt: 131204004799
Flange nut: 131204004249
Master: 131204013485
Thanks for the detailed review!
I did an 07+ CRF master, 06 YZ caliper and SS line on mine and have about 2 hours on it.
Like you I really enjoy the greater modulation vs the stock setup, which I thought lacked modulation.
+1 I like the 07 master and brembo mod. Tons of modulation in ruts, I like it way more than stock on/off feel.
Anybody have a map/settings for a full Akrapovic system? Or should I just run the "magic map"?
I tried the ‘25 front engine mounts over the weekend- highly recommended!
Normally I would get finger/ hand tingles at ~12-13 min with the updates mounts I didn’t notice any tingling.
I can’t say I noticed anything different in the corners but it might have been better. The tingling was a major change and something I was wondering how I could fix as it limited my ability to ride longer.
Anyone have indepth pictures of the differences between the 2024 to 2025 fork? Like with cartridges, amd maybe valving?
I posted the new valving specs above. FC has some photos on their site of the Delta valve.
Thank you so much.
Finally doing top end at 60 hours.
Some marks at the front of the cylinder and in piston skirt, but nothing else odd. Cross hatching still looks great, valves haven’t moved at all the whole time (last measurement was 24 hours), rod moves as expected and same as last time I took the cylinder off, and no issues taking it apart of putting it back together. Only challenge is the cam chain tensioner which is a pain to put back in solo.
Just sharing in case people are thinking about durability, etc.
Just did mine last week @56hr. Same story as you. Piston looked great, cross-hatching in tact, and cam chain tensioner was a pain in the ass lol. After doing it, I would be comfortable running one to 75-100 hours. I will say, first ride this thing feels brand new again! Very happy with ease of install using OEM parts.
Both times I’ve taken the top end apart I’ve wished I had a manual cam chain tensioner! Need to update that Christmas list.
What is the issue with the adjuster? I haven't done a newer Yamaha top-end yet, but on the Hondas, Kawasakis, etc you wound the tensioner in and locked it in place with the little T-shaped tool. Then after everything was installed, you pulled the locking tool out and the tensioner would extend. Is this different?
Unless I missed it, this style on the yamaha doesn’t have a locking mechanism at the end. You can’t push it or screw it all the way in and have it click and stay.
You have to wind it in with a screwdriver, hold the screwdriver to keep tension on it, slide it into the motor and bolt it all the way down before finally letting go of the screwdriver, all with two hands.
If I’ve totally missed it and they’re actually is a locking mechanism I’m going to feel pretty dumb!
Pit Row
Its been a while but there was a T shaped tool that held the tensioner in place while you bolted the tensioner in place. Pull out the tool and click its self adjusted.
REP just dropped a new link and knuckle. A good leverage chart comparing the 24-25-REP.
The REP doesn’t need a spring rate change like 24 to 25 knuckle change, but it’s quite progressive at the end of the travel. I think this will really help the bike from riding low and deep without having to run so much compression damping. Hopefully the ramp doesn’t come on too strong.
I just put the 25 knuckle on mine last night. I was really needing one step stiffer spring, but when I installed the link my sag numbers came in perfect. I've compared the stacks and the 24 stack is firmer than the 25 and I needed more on my 24, so I'm going to start with the 24 valving and the correct spring and see where I'm at.
You see the star shaped notches at the end of the tensioner? That is where the t-shape tool goes in to lock it in place. The slimmer part goes into the screwdriver slot and the T part goes in the notches. I also read where you can just tighten it with the screwdriver and it would hold itself, but I've never did that myself.
You can see the T-shape (or key shape here) tool that comes with a new tensioner.
Holy moly I need that little tool! Thanks!!
Honda makes a nice tensioner tool with a thumb wheel on it that locks in place. P/N 07AMG-001A100
The best mod you can get for these bikes is a LitPro. It’ll force you to quit acting like a Golf Pro Shop diva and realize that you just need to ride the bike more often, and when you do, do so as if it means something. It will with a LitPro 👍 Way better that that 1/2mm offset change lol
Thats it !
If you don’t have the small tool, you can just wind the screw with a screwdriver and then clamp a small vice grip on the screwdriver to prevent it from winding back in while you tighten the bolts.
Rubbish. It’s always the bike. First rule of vet club. Always blame the bike.
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