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Only $10 for all 2024 SX, MX, and SMX series (regularly $30).
1) set your race sag
2) measure the actual spring preload.
3) if the preload is between 2-8mm you are about right. Any more and the spring is too soft, less too stiff.
4) don't even worry what your free sag number is (it'll probably be between 50-65mm).
2 mm is practically rattling between the purches, so you might be good.
Once you get the forks valved properly you'll probably think to rear spring is either right or too soft. Also, the rear shock is valved very light (unless they've made changes since I bought mine).
I also asked about making the charger work on 220 volts, but Im confused as to the reply I got of just making an adapter to go from whichever 220 plug I have to a standard 110 plug. Am I to believe there is no changing or adding a wire to the charger itself to make it work on 220?
Also I asked about specific generator requirements, as just saying "we reccommend a Lifan generator" was too broad. The reply was using a Honda or Yamaha 3,000 inverter with 220. There isnt any inverter types available with 220 on them, what are the rest of you using to charge at 220?
I've never tried anything less than 95mm race sag and to me the front was more predictable as I increased the sag. Try less, you never know. Too bad Alta still hasn't released an owner manual yet.
The Shop
I recently sold the Coleman Powermate 5000 generator on Craigslist for $250 (making $50 for those of you paying attention) and found a new in the box Duromax XP4850 generator that also does 110v and 220v, has electric start, and it a lot quieter that the Coleman Powermate generator that I had. I got it for $350, and I think it retails for around $450-500.
The Powermate generator had an exhaust about the size of your fist, while the Duromax exhaust is about half the size of a car exhaust. It isn't quite as quiet as an expensive 220v generator inverter, but the noise is tolerable and way easier to put up with.
New Duromax Generator
Here is the 4-prong plug (which came with the Duromax) and the short cord and 3-prong plug that I built from stuff at Home Depot. The wiring is easy, and the Alta smart charger automatically recognizes the input voltage.
No Electrician Needed
Not As Quiet As My Alta But Tolerable
So, at the track I use the generator with 220v, and at home use my workshop 110v wall plug. 220v is much faster for charging, and based upon the structure of most mx races/practices (race/practice and then wait around for an 45-60 minutes), 220v is the way to go.
I think I would like that.
From what I understand- the CEO of Alta has a hand brake on his bike.
Talked to the dealer I bought my Alta from and he said he'd look into what parts Alta uses and their avalability. Never heard back. So I bought a Rekluse LHRB setup made for a KTM. It allows you to keep and use the foot brake.
Unfortunately, the Rekluse kit uses a tiny mtn bike lever on the handlebars, probably becouse most use it WITH a clutch lever as well. It worked OK, but wasn't nearly as strong as I wanted. So I bought a stock KTM hyd clutch lever and modified the pressure line to fit. Better, but still not what I was looking for. Finally, I installed a KTM Braking oversized rear rotor kit plus a high leverage lever and it's finally close to what I was looking for.
I've done quite a bit of research trying to find a setup that would allow the larger piston or twin piston Brembo caliper to be adapted but ultimately I think it would take a custom caliper support.
If you wanted to replicate what I did as cheap as possible I'd contact Rekluse and ask if they'ed sell you the adapter for the foot master cylinder separately. It's the only part I got left on the bike from the original kit. Probably save a couple hundred.
http://www.clake.com.au/prices/slr-pedal-master-cylinder-adapter-kit/ This is the master cylinder adapter
https://spieglerusa.com/ This is the custom made to length fluid line.
And of course a Brembo clutch master cylinder. Still waiting on Clake parts to install everything.
Thanks for the info on the 220 cord, I was a bit concerned with smoking the charger, but now I understand.
Ive spent 2 weeks researching generator output, db level, and weight, and still havent found what I want yet. Im currently using a DeWalt 7,000 but its loud and at 192 lbs, just too heavy to be hauling all over the place. I really didnt anticipate this big of an issue with selecting a generator. I was under the impression a simple Honda 3,000 was gonna be ok, and it is for 110, but I really want to charge at 220 for the time savings.
Im currently looking into euro models as 220 is the standard over there, and Im trying to see if that will work.
So the question I have to ask myself is if its worth the coin for quietness, and portability.
I did learn one thing. The motor uses a position sensor to determine rotation angle and rpm. Although more expensive and subject to possible failure (it's redundant), it's more accurate and saves lots of onboard code and computing time. The only other motor data needed is the instantaneous current from two of the three phases. All this data is supplied to the motor control electronics via the one orange 3 conductor (and shield grd) high voltage cable running from the inverter to the MCE. The second orange cable is the high voltage supply from the battery to the inverter. The manual doesn't talk about any of this good stuff, it's probably proprietary. But I've been able to figure out what most of the inputs/outputs are and what they do. It's like a puzzle.
https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/alta-redshift-mx-first-ride-motor…
Pit Row
Curious how long the Alta could last at that speed on map 2. I know it's very generalized and there's a lot of variables that go into battery longevity on a single charge.
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