Upgrade to enjoy this feature!
Vital MX fantasy is free to play, but paid users have great benefits. Paid member benefits:
- View and download rider stats
- Pick trends
- Create a private league
- And more!
Only $10 for all 2024 SX, MX, and SMX series (regularly $30).
Then there is the whole mirrorless or mirrored debate.
I'm a big fill flash guy so that's another story.
I like to keep the spokes spinning in my shots with the bike and rider crisp and this obviously is different depending on if your shooting all lens or with flash.
Guy B can chime in here.
Jason
The Shop
Video, photo, similar principles apply and its all based around what you're trying to achieve. Light is essentially the key to everything. Not enough light, the camera tries to compensate, grainy photos. Too much light can always be toned down with shutter speed, ISO, ND filters etc. So light is a good thing. The amount of light a camera sensor receives depends mostly on your lens' apeture rating (the lower the "f stop" number, the "better").
Long story short, a decent camera body (Canon, Nikon for example), full frame is the most popular, with a 70-200mm focal length lens to allow you to get tight enough shots of your subject from the obvious distances you'll be shooting at. I'm even considering a 28-300 at the moment. Given most cheap/mid range lenses have higher apeture numbers (in the f4-6 range) I am eyeing off a "speed booster" adapter that lowers the apeture rating by a full f stop, essentially helping bring more light in and allow me to more easily pursue those artsy "shallow depth of field" shots I'm forever trying to learn/navigate/perfect, without breaking the bank.
Clear as mud.
You should be able to find these for $600 each:
1DmkIV
70-200 2.8 non IS
Here's a sample photo with it..
Don't let anyone else talk you into buying some superzoom 35-500mm lens...they look great on paper but they're all junk.
But I'll say that getting a clean background and isolating your subject will
be your challenges.
And make it easy on yourself- shoot when the sun is low. Mid-day light is such garbage
If you end up getting the Canon setup PM me and I'll help you out with settings.
I'm using a Panasonic GH5 for its video capabilities/price point (4k 60p) which has a smaller, micro four thirds crop sensor system (again my focus is video). Whilst I can get native lenses (to some degree), the cost is immense and availability somewhat scarce. These adapters allow me to use Canon EF lenses on my set up, whilst also giving a full F stop of extra aperture, theoretically meaning, for example, I can use a Canon 70-200 2.8 at effectively f1.8, whilst still maintaining all auto focus and image stability.
See link:
https://www.metabones.com/products/details/MB_SPEF-m43-BT3
Again, steep learning curve here, hence my response. Any feedback on this potential set up is appreciated!
Pit Row
and I just had a normal 55-250mm lens for this one (not the expensive lens everyone buys, probably around $400)
The most important thing about shooting moto is learning how to shoot with the sun, not into it (bad shadows), eliminating cluttered backgrounds and learning how to get crisp shots with the ISO and shutter speed. These are all things I learned through talking to other photographers at the track and eventually figured out (to an extent).
90% of the work comes from learning about what makes a great photograph, the gear is mostly irrelevant unless you want to do it as a job.
Go on youtube and learn about the "rule of thirds" and I'm sure youtube will take it from there.
I use a cheap Canon Rebel XS and a 70-300 f4-5.6. I really like this picture, but with proper technique and practice it would be way better.
Post a reply to: Moto photography