Metal grid starting gate advice.....

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12/22/2019 12:47 AM

Looking for any pointers on starting on the new metal mesh starting gate pads.

Ill be on an almost stock CR250 that I've always used 2nd gear for on both dirt or concrete starts and just adjusted my weight further back on concrete pads.....but I'm just wondering if I need to drop down a gear or keep the bike revving a little higher than usual etc. etc.

Thanks


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12/22/2019 1:10 AM

Id still start in second, slip clutch as needed.

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12/22/2019 3:36 AM

Second gear, weight forward so you get some weight of the rear and keep front end down. It is like starting on a dirt start with very good traction.

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12/22/2019 7:43 AM

What aees said.

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12/22/2019 6:12 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/22/2019 6:12 PM

Thanks guys I appreciate the advice..... especially gear selection

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12/22/2019 6:56 PM

What was wrong with dirt?

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"If you are going through HELL, keep going."-Winston Churchill
"A man needs a little madness or else he never dares cut the rope and be free"-Zorba
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12/22/2019 11:49 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/22/2019 11:50 PM

oldblood wrote:

What was wrong with dirt?

It takes too much practice and technique to master dirt starts on different dirt surfaces and we cant have that in the age of 4 strokes and electronic start mapping. wink

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Ed Johnson

12/23/2019 12:08 AM

Butt a little more back head forward (more angle on your back then normal will help u control the front end a little better) both feet down and keep your feet down and tite the first 15 feet (little trick start with your heels up so when you go u just lift your toes up over the gate while keeping your legs locked tite down by your ankles between the peg and shifter/brake) feet need to be tite and don’t let them move or u will misshift. Practice shifting with the side of your boot up by your upper calf muscle. U want your legs to bow around the engine so your tite by your ankles and not so tite with your knees or else you will roast your knees and your ankles won’t be tite where they need to be and won’t bow in like u need them to be able to shift with the side of your boot. Try and have your feet close to eachother by Bowing around the engine. I usually put my feet down a certain way first as to lock in where the pressure is to my outter toes then bring my knees in. It’s tricky but once u do it it’s perfect. Good luck. Lots of throttle smooth on the clutch. Don’t be popping the clutch. Let it burn a little but be controlled and fast. Lost of throttle so u don’t bog.

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12/23/2019 1:23 AM

Im not the worlds best starter, but im atleast somewhat good amongst the swedish field, and im keeping the throttle on 90% open so the rev limiter just kicks in, and then you ease the clutch out, as soon as you hit the dirt the throttle goes wide open and then you control it with the clutch if needed.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxVBSDviEkA/?igshid=11wzblesk3cw

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12/23/2019 12:51 PM

At the risk of sounding stupid, how do these metal grates affect tire wear? Does the back wheel actually spin or is the traction so good that the tire hooks up completely? If the tire is spinning I would expect cuts and chunking of the knobs which would call for more frequent tire replacement.

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"I love the smell of race gas in the morning"

12/24/2019 12:33 PM

Titanium wrote:

At the risk of sounding stupid, how do these metal grates affect tire wear? Does the back wheel actually spin or is the traction so good that the tire hooks up completely? If the tire is spinning I would expect cuts and chunking of the knobs which would call for more frequent tire replacement.

I think that's a very valid question "Titanium"

As long as it doesn't get rained out I intend to hit practice up this Friday and they said they're planning on having a gate or two open so we can practice starts on.

I'll take some close ups of my rear tire before the day begins and once it's over and I'll try to remember to keep track of how many starts I do.

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12/24/2019 12:58 PM

Titanium wrote:

At the risk of sounding stupid, how do these metal grates affect tire wear? Does the back wheel actually spin or is the traction so good that the tire hooks up completely? If the tire is spinning I would expect cuts and chunking of the knobs which would call for more frequent tire replacement.

Only spins if grid and tire are both wet, sometime if grid only is wet.

You can so some testing on a reasonable hot day if you have good asphalt around (not concrete, but asphalt)

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12/24/2019 1:21 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/24/2019 1:29 PM

Zero wheel spin. While getting ready for SX FUTURES championship we practiced starts on one and it started to grate the tire a little after about 15 starts.
Lock the front down and put your weight slightly forward

Also had them when we raced the GPMX amateur race in Jacksonville a few years ago
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12/24/2019 2:49 PM

MX Warrior Dad wrote:

Zero wheel spin. While getting ready for SX FUTURES championship we practiced starts on one and it started to grate the tire a little after about 15 starts.
Lock the front down and put your weight slightly forward

Also had them when we raced the GPMX amateur race in Jacksonville a few years ago
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Thanks "Dad" and any others who've responded...... really appreciate the feedback.

I wasn't sure if I would have a chance to practice on them at all before actual race but it looks like they'll have a few of them open this weekend.

Sounds like it might actually help even the playing field with 4 strokes equipped with launch control since it would have been a concrete start.

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12/25/2019 3:08 PM

Ass on the rear fender with throttle wfo. Legs real loose on the bike. As gate drops through your head back as you drop the clutch lever. As always this is best done in 1st gear. I know this sounds a bit risky but i guarentee you will see a difference in your starts. Thank me later bro! Braaap!..

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