Kx125 Splooge City (Oil)

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3/10/2019 11:01 PM

Took the ‘05 out today and after riding for about an hour, there was oil coming from the power valve, and out the exhaust. It was on the engine, frame, swing arm and brake, and all over the fender, even my boot.

I run Castor 927 @40:1 and planned on rebuilding the top end by summer. I’ve never seen that much splooge from one ride, any advice?
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3/11/2019 2:03 AM

Damn. That's bad.

Check the seal on the parts diagram.

Check the pipe to silencer junction also.

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3/11/2019 4:59 AM

Mine does it but not nearly that bad, I run 32:1 Maxima Super M

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3/11/2019 5:01 AM

Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase gasket also if the seal doesnt fix the problem.

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a faster bike just means you'll be shutting off sooner

3/11/2019 5:45 AM

This is from my 2002 rm125 right after I bought it from a guy who left the stock jetting in it at 6000 feet elevation. I bought it, rejetted it and had splooge non stop all day. Its good now!
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3/11/2019 7:23 AM
Edited Date/Time: 3/11/2019 7:25 AM

How old is silencer? Could be massively clogged up and may need repacked. Also, power valve may be gummed up and not be working properly.

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3/11/2019 7:31 AM

Jetting

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3/11/2019 7:51 AM
Edited Date/Time: 3/11/2019 8:57 AM

motogeeze wrote:

Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase ...more

Before that, I'd dump the 927. If he's burning trans oil coming in from anywhere seals etc,(even center case) it will stink.
927 (even thought its only 20% castor) won't burn off unless you're a top pro or ride WFO conditions all the time.
Plus, castor for a casual just gums everything up.

The jetting is probably fine. It just needs to be ran WFO a bit to clean out.

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3/11/2019 8:45 AM

crf250pilot wrote:

How old is silencer? Could be massively clogged up and may need repacked. Also, power valve may be gummed up and not be ...more

This was the first ride on it since repacking, so the packing was fresh. The old stuff was really bad but I thought the PO just didn’t maintain it

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3/11/2019 8:47 AM

brocster wrote:

Jetting

I’m actually running a Lectron carb

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3/11/2019 8:51 AM

92049-1209
KIPS valve shaft oil seal

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THERE IS NO SECOND MOTO IN LIFE!

3/11/2019 9:01 AM

motogeeze wrote:

Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase ...more

77Moto wrote:

Before that, I'd dump the 927. If he's burning trans oil coming in from anywhere seals etc,(even center case) it will stink.
...more

What do you recommend running? I’ve read that 927 can gum stuff up before. At 40:1 I didn’t think it would be an issue tho. I’m using a Lectron btw

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3/11/2019 9:09 AM

davermz450 wrote:

This is from my 2002 rm125 right after I bought it from a guy who left the stock jetting in it at 6000 feet elevation. I ...more

Damn, that whole swingarm was a different color! Lol

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3/11/2019 9:13 AM

Awesome!

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My bikes:

KTM duke 790
KTM 250 Sx
Thumpstar TSR 190

3/11/2019 9:20 AM

motogeeze wrote:

Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase ...more

I doubt it is the "centercase gasket" since KX125's don't have them.

Check your transmission oil level.

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3/11/2019 9:31 AM
Edited Date/Time: 3/11/2019 9:34 AM

Sir Roostsalot wrote:

92049-1209
KIPS valve shaft oil seal

Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where the seal rides. This problem has nothing to do with cases, oil type, ratio, gear oil.

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THERE IS NO SECOND MOTO IN LIFE!

3/11/2019 9:49 AM

motogeeze wrote:

Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase ...more

KDXGarage wrote:

I doubt it is the "centercase gasket" since KX125's don't have them.

Check your transmission oil level.

I changed the transmission oil after I got the bike, and measured it out according to the service manual. The old stuff was milky-gray.

The bike was def not maintained when I got it. When I took the skid plate off, it had a lot of dirt/oil buildup so this problem is apparently not new

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3/11/2019 10:05 AM

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3/11/2019 10:08 AM

Milky-Grey-white = water. Change it and see if it happens again and watch the coolant level.

If it still does it water pump seal. Only a little water will turn it greyish. the more the whiter and milkier.


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3/11/2019 11:11 AM

Sir Roostsalot wrote:

92049-1209
KIPS valve shaft oil seal

Sir Roostsalot wrote:

Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where ...more

Thanks for providing a part number for that btw, I’ll look into it more when I get off of work. Has this happened to you before?

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3/11/2019 12:18 PM

Sir Roostsalot wrote:

92049-1209
KIPS valve shaft oil seal

Sir Roostsalot wrote:

Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where ...more

Kelz87 wrote:

Thanks for providing a part number for that btw, I’ll look into it more when I get off of work. Has this happened to you ...more

Several times, it can happen on any 2 stroke engine that uses an exhaust power valve thay is run by a governor on the crankshaft. It lives behind the black rubber boot above the water pump. Make sure you have all the C clips properly installed.

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THERE IS NO SECOND MOTO IN LIFE!

3/11/2019 12:35 PM

77Moto wrote:

Milky-Grey-white = water. Change it and see if it happens again and watch the coolant level.

If it still does it water pump ...more

Yeah, that’s what I was afraid of too. I changed the oil, took a lap around the neighborhood to heat up, then changed it again. The oil still looked good, and it shifts wayyy smoother now

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3/11/2019 12:42 PM

Sir Roostsalot wrote:

Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where ...more

Kelz87 wrote:

Thanks for providing a part number for that btw, I’ll look into it more when I get off of work. Has this happened to you ...more

Sir Roostsalot wrote:

Several times, it can happen on any 2 stroke engine that uses an exhaust power valve thay is run by a governor on the ...more

I’ll definitely check that out. I’m not familiar with power valves honestly, I’ve never had one on a bike before. I wonder if that’s causing the powerband to be weak in first and second gear? Once I hit third, the power feels much crisper

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3/11/2019 1:25 PM

I know 40:1 is standard for most two strokes but you definitely can deviate from that if you are finding that a new power valve seal didn't fix the issue. I remember going from as rich as 28:1 on my 100 (the only thing we could do to stop taking cranks) to 40:1 on the KX125 before eventually settling at 44:1. We were fighting that issue along with some jetting issues as I transitioned to and started picking up speed on the 125. I'd take a look at your plug and make sure that it's on the darker side before trimming up the oil ratio. I'd also put some more time than just up and down the street before ruling out a water leak. Though a water issue is likely not the cause of what you're seeing on the case and swingarm, you will definitely want to look into that as your oil was indicative of a separate issue.

You can still have a perfectly tuned 125 that leaks a little bit of oil. Especially when the rider isn't WFO 24/7 and is building up the cases with oil and then dumping it on long straights. Get it close and stay on the throttle. As much as it pains a 4T acclimated rider, you have to stay on the redline to keep the motor cleared. My best advice is to spend a day at a track that you are super comfy on, get a gallon of unmixed gas, and do some testing with jetting and oil ratios (staying between 28:1 and 50:1). You can also try different premix. We never used Maxima, only the cheap stuff (GN2). Check your plug after every ride and stop only when you have minimal spitting and a nice dark brown plug. 125's are tricky but once you find what works with this bike you're only a small adjustment here and there to dial it in for each track.

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3/11/2019 1:32 PM

Kelz87 wrote:

Thanks for providing a part number for that btw, I’ll look into it more when I get off of work. Has this happened to you ...more

Sir Roostsalot wrote:

Several times, it can happen on any 2 stroke engine that uses an exhaust power valve thay is run by a governor on the ...more

Kelz87 wrote:

I’ll definitely check that out. I’m not familiar with power valves honestly, I’ve never had one on a bike before. I wonder if ...more

I would take a look behind the cover plate of your KIPS valve. Take off the snap ring (don't lose it, that bitch will go flying real quick) and try and actuate the valve by hand. You can peer in through the exhaust port and see it move back in forth, choking the exhaust port when closed. Your issue sounds like jetting but could also be the valve stuck in one of the positions (likely closed if you're experiencing an issue in low gears (high-RPMs) that goes away when you get into a higher gear with lower RPMs).

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3/11/2019 2:59 PM

Engine has to come apart on most Kawasaki's for crank seal replacement.

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3/11/2019 7:04 PM

crf250pilot wrote:

How old is silencer? Could be massively clogged up and may need repacked. Also, power valve may be gummed up and not be ...more

Ya repack your silencer for sure!!!

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3/11/2019 7:07 PM

project racer wrote:

Engine has to come apart on most Kawasaki's for crank seal replacement.

We're not discussing crank seals, its a seal on the RH side of the cylinder.

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THERE IS NO SECOND MOTO IN LIFE!

3/11/2019 8:54 PM

Sir Roostsalot wrote:

92049-1209
KIPS valve shaft oil seal

Sir Roostsalot wrote:

Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where ...more

OP, listen to SirRoostalot. He 100% nailed your problem.

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Non Gratum Anus Rodentum

3/18/2019 12:05 AM

project racer wrote:

Engine has to come apart on most Kawasaki's for crank seal replacement.

Ha. No need to be vague. :-) It's a 2005 KX125. The right crank seal does not install from the inside.

OP, if the trasnsmission oil level keeps dropping, it is time for pressure and vacuum tests. The seal could be allowing transmission oil into the crankcase.

Get the KIPS sorted too, though!

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