KTM OEM Wheels

adams189
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adams189
Just curious with peoples experience with new KTM wheels. Just got a 23’ 350 SX-F and every time I ride it the spokes are completely loose. Coming off a Yamaha where after the first ride tightening they are good. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thank you for the feedback.
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mattyhamz2
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mattyhamz2 7/29/2022 8:45pm
7/29/2022 8:45pm
That’s been every big bike KTM since 2016. They take a bit to properly seat, but once the do they are good to go.
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Bruce372
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Bruce372 7/29/2022 9:05pm
7/29/2022 9:05pm Edited Date/Time 7/29/2022 9:05pm
You can buy single spokes and nipples not that expensive lol!!!
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Darrin Willis
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Darrin Willis 7/29/2022 9:14pm
7/29/2022 9:14pm
Knock on wood but my 3 ktm s have are still straight with no flat spots. 100 hrs on my 350. Spokes are about the same as my previous yz s. Check every 4 or 5hrs and find one or 2 loose spokes. I never got more then 40hrs on a yz without a big flat spot in a rim.
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Hammer 663s
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Hammer 663s 7/29/2022 9:22pm
7/29/2022 9:22pm Edited Date/Time 7/29/2022 9:24pm
I’ve got 2 with 120 and 72 hours and work on a few others with as much as 175 hours. All are fine. I torque em every few weeks or after big hits. The spoke by the rim lock comes loose first. Everything needs maintenance now and then. Bolt checks are a big part of our routine.
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Hrvat Moto
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Hrvat Moto 7/29/2022 9:24pm
7/29/2022 9:24pm
You could order a set of warp 9’s if you don’t like stock. Or roll the dice on some Chinese CNC’d wheels from amazon
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soggy
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soggy 7/29/2022 9:57pm
7/29/2022 9:57pm
Are you tightening with a torque wrench? Maybe calibration is off
mbw479
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mbw479 7/30/2022 5:59am
7/30/2022 5:59am
I’ve only ever had to nip up a few from new……then all good.
Nitrofunnycar 7/30/2022 6:14am
7/30/2022 6:14am
New ‘22 KTM350SXF owner here. Coming off a lifetime of Yamaha bikes. First ride on the Orange bike, came in and the spokes were super loose. I bought a Fasst Spoke Torque wrench. Best purchase ever!!! Apparently I’ve been putting way too much “ugga ugga” on my spokes all these years. After a few rides (as stated by other KTM guys), the spokes have “seated in” and I haven’t had to touch them since.
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aees
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aees 7/30/2022 6:58am
7/30/2022 6:58am
You need to give the spokes a good hit with hammer and driver tool at the hub end. That will seat them into the hub.

After that, retorque.
Gravel
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Gravel 7/30/2022 8:15am
7/30/2022 8:15am
aees wrote:
You need to give the spokes a good hit with hammer and driver tool at the hub end. That will seat them into the hub. After...
You need to give the spokes a good hit with hammer and driver tool at the hub end. That will seat them into the hub.

After that, retorque.
I’ve been doing that for many years and it works really well, but be careful, it’s possible to break the hub. I also seat the nipples from the tire side before the final truing.
Hammer 663s
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Hammer 663s 7/30/2022 8:24am
7/30/2022 8:24am
aees wrote:
You need to give the spokes a good hit with hammer and driver tool at the hub end. That will seat them into the hub. After...
You need to give the spokes a good hit with hammer and driver tool at the hub end. That will seat them into the hub.

After that, retorque.
Gravel wrote:
I’ve been doing that for many years and it works really well, but be careful, it’s possible to break the hub. I also seat the nipples...
I’ve been doing that for many years and it works really well, but be careful, it’s possible to break the hub. I also seat the nipples from the tire side before the final truing.
Never done this. What’s the technique? I always lube the spoke heads, threads, and nipple seats before I true, and usually repeat yearly during winter rebuilds. Never “seated” either end.
SmokinJoe439 7/30/2022 8:25am
7/30/2022 8:25am
No issues with both my 21's mine a couple got loose at first nothing major. Like with all new wheels they to set in.
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racinstation
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racinstation 7/30/2022 9:58am
7/30/2022 9:58am
The Austrian wheels have gotten worse for spoke tension the last few years. The new (22-23) require more attention than ever. Proper torque the first 20 hours or so seems to work in order to have them take a set. My theory is lighter and lighter is not stronger and stronger.
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MX558
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MX558 7/30/2022 3:33pm
7/30/2022 3:33pm
My 22 has did dirtstars are they the good ones or OEM shit ? Are the husky Wheels better ? 0
MKMX
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MKMX 7/30/2022 5:12pm
7/30/2022 5:12pm
My last few bikes have been KTM’s and as mentioned, they work their way loose for the first few rides. I use a Fasstco spoke torque wrench for consistency when checking spokes. I use the following method;
- start at the spoke closest to the valve (only for reference)
- check every third spoke (so you alternate which side is being tensioned) and it takes 3 laps of the wheel to check them all
- only tension 1/4-1/2 a turn at a time
- repeat until the whole wheel is at the same tension

Some guys don’t like using a torque wrench, I have found doing this works for me and my wheels have always had good run-out and consistent off-set/dishing.

Also, on your tyre changes, it never hurts to pull the rim strip off and lube the threads of each spoke.
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Gravel
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Gravel 7/30/2022 8:31pm
7/30/2022 8:31pm Edited Date/Time 7/30/2022 8:33pm
aees wrote:
You need to give the spokes a good hit with hammer and driver tool at the hub end. That will seat them into the hub. After...
You need to give the spokes a good hit with hammer and driver tool at the hub end. That will seat them into the hub.

After that, retorque.
Gravel wrote:
I’ve been doing that for many years and it works really well, but be careful, it’s possible to break the hub. I also seat the nipples...
I’ve been doing that for many years and it works really well, but be careful, it’s possible to break the hub. I also seat the nipples from the tire side before the final truing.
Hammer 663s wrote:
Never done this. What’s the technique? I always lube the spoke heads, threads, and nipple seats before I true, and usually repeat yearly during winter rebuilds...
Never done this. What’s the technique? I always lube the spoke heads, threads, and nipple seats before I true, and usually repeat yearly during winter rebuilds. Never “seated” either end.
Just use a smallish (15 oz or so) hammer and a punch with a face big enough to cover most of the spoke head. A fairly light blow will set the spoke head or nipple into the hub or rim. The goal is to duplicate the settling in that usually takes several rides and spoke tightening cycles. Just don’t beat on the hub flanges and break one off, I use the same technique on bicycle wheels and I’ve broken a hub on a bicycle wheel before.

I lube both ends of the spokes with something convenient, motor oil, linseed oil, whatever is handy.

There’s definitely risk involved but it’s worth it to me.
FGR01
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FGR01 7/30/2022 8:45pm
7/30/2022 8:45pm
MX558 wrote:
My 22 has did dirtstars are they the good ones or OEM shit ? Are the husky Wheels better ? 0
The Dirt Stars that come stock on Husky and KTM FE wheels are not the same as the Dirt Stars that are sold aftermarket. They are a weaker version. I had all kinds of trouble with flat spots and broken nipples on my Husky rear wheels. Weighed the stock Dirt Star and an aftermarket equivalent - stock is about 200g lighter and flat spots more easily.

On both my Huskies I got sick of replacing broken rear nipples/spokes. Rebuilt both wheels with DID-STX rims and bulldog spokes. Solid now, no more drama.

Note that KTM recommends 6NM torque where all other brands are in the 5 - 5.5NM range. I recommend using 5.5 on KTM wheels as they are less prone to breaking nipples that way.
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