Just brought a rmz 450 2016

baxbax26
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GB
Just some advice on bike never had a 4 stroke before
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11/24/2016 9:57am
Just change the cam chain often. Rotella oil and good to go. Love suzukis however their parts are double what a yamaha are
baxbax26
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GB
11/24/2016 10:36am
Just change the cam chain often. Rotella oil and good to go. Love suzukis however their parts are double what a yamaha are
Thanks how often cam chain
Rotaholic
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11/24/2016 10:42am
Change it with the piston, 50-100 hours depending on how you ride.
BobPA
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11/24/2016 10:45am
"Just bought a 2016 RMZ 450"

Fixed it for you

The Shop

11/24/2016 10:46am
If you track ride. I change the cam change every 25 hours or if it has been sitting 6 months. They tend to kink up causing them to lock
baxbax26
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GB
11/24/2016 11:31am
Rotaholic wrote:
Change it with the piston, 50-100 hours depending on how you ride.
Lol not hard at all usually ride 125 2 stroke
kiwifan
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11/24/2016 12:06pm
Bikes are like your GF/Wife, dont look after them they break down....give them regular love and attention and you can ride them forever Smile
OR Racer46
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11/24/2016 12:11pm
I would get a TM design chain guide first. The stock guides are made out of soft butter
MX690
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AU
11/24/2016 12:20pm
I have a 2011 RMZ and I have only ever put one cam chain in it, and that was when I did a complete top end rebuild, I don't know what these guys are talking about I have never had or heard of cam chain issues.
Sidecar
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11/24/2016 1:45pm
Hope you don't want any cycra plastic.....
langhammx
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11/24/2016 1:56pm Edited Date/Time 11/24/2016 1:58pm
If you track ride. I change the cam change every 25 hours or if it has been sitting 6 months. They tend to kink up causing...
If you track ride. I change the cam change every 25 hours or if it has been sitting 6 months. They tend to kink up causing them to lock
You're wasting your money.

The cam chain isn't all that expensive, but there is no need to do a cam chain or a piston at 25 hrs, unless you're racing the pro class or simply abuse your bike.
Piston/ cam chain every 50 hrs is probably a good dea, but I've seen them get 100 hrs on several freinds bikes.
oldrider
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sunny isles, FL US
11/24/2016 3:51pm
Once the fork get too harsh, grease the 3 internal o-rings of the right fork piston.
Hudd_421
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TX US
11/24/2016 4:13pm
I haven't had any issues with chain sliders. I did replace the chain guide at about 40 hours. Overall, no issues with the RM.
11/24/2016 4:39pm
If you track ride. I change the cam change every 25 hours or if it has been sitting 6 months. They tend to kink up causing...
If you track ride. I change the cam change every 25 hours or if it has been sitting 6 months. They tend to kink up causing them to lock
langhammx wrote:
You're wasting your money. The cam chain isn't all that expensive, but there is no need to do a cam chain or a piston at 25...
You're wasting your money.

The cam chain isn't all that expensive, but there is no need to do a cam chain or a piston at 25 hrs, unless you're racing the pro class or simply abuse your bike.
Piston/ cam chain every 50 hrs is probably a good dea, but I've seen them get 100 hrs on several freinds bikes.
I service bikes. They kink up pretty bad when run hard. I have some in my drawyer that will literally hold form when picked up. Also if they have been sitting for long the same thing. So each its own. I choose to live in peace when im coming up to a triple.
TeamGreen
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Thru-out, CA US
11/24/2016 5:44pm
Learn how to adjust the air chambers in your forks and get the compression/rebound notes from various tests and shootouts. I recently put some laps on a '17 and knowing how to get the forks dialed really helped on my lap times.
Aryen
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Eindhoven NL
11/25/2016 2:38am
BobPA wrote:
"Just bought a 2016 RMZ 450"

Fixed it for you
Still says "brought"...
11/25/2016 10:36am Edited Date/Time 11/25/2016 10:37am
baxbax26 wrote:
Just some advice on bike never had a 4 stroke before
Put a 1.6 or 2.0 radiator cap on it. That's about the only thing you need! I run the stock offset on clamps. The air forks that come on it stock is my favorite airfork, but I run the spring fork because I think it works better. The best thing to do for your bike is to try and make it lighter. Ti shock spring, guts light seat foam, Fmf ti Exhuast system are some huge weight savings. Enjoy your ride! I love mine!
brimx153
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11/25/2016 10:48am Edited Date/Time 11/25/2016 10:49am
baxbax26 wrote:
Just some advice on bike never had a 4 stroke before
Put a 1.6 or 2.0 radiator cap on it. That's about the only thing you need! I run the stock offset on clamps. The air forks...
Put a 1.6 or 2.0 radiator cap on it. That's about the only thing you need! I run the stock offset on clamps. The air forks that come on it stock is my favorite airfork, but I run the spring fork because I think it works better. The best thing to do for your bike is to try and make it lighter. Ti shock spring, guts light seat foam, Fmf ti Exhuast system are some huge weight savings. Enjoy your ride! I love mine!
do you run a diff linkage . i was thinking of getting a lowering link heard they are very good for the rm s, alway s feel my bike is high on the back end up running 110 to 115 sag . any imput on this would be great , if you have ever tryed them thanks a mill
11/25/2016 11:07am
baxbax26 wrote:
Just some advice on bike never had a 4 stroke before
Put a 1.6 or 2.0 radiator cap on it. That's about the only thing you need! I run the stock offset on clamps. The air forks...
Put a 1.6 or 2.0 radiator cap on it. That's about the only thing you need! I run the stock offset on clamps. The air forks that come on it stock is my favorite airfork, but I run the spring fork because I think it works better. The best thing to do for your bike is to try and make it lighter. Ti shock spring, guts light seat foam, Fmf ti Exhuast system are some huge weight savings. Enjoy your ride! I love mine!
brimx153 wrote:
do you run a diff linkage . i was thinking of getting a lowering link heard they are very good for the rm s, alway s...
do you run a diff linkage . i was thinking of getting a lowering link heard they are very good for the rm s, alway s feel my bike is high on the back end up running 110 to 115 sag . any imput on this would be great , if you have ever tryed them thanks a mill
Running more sag is usually just a band aid for bad suspension valving. I run the stock link at 100-102 sag. Run the forks flush if you're not having trouble with turning and make sure you're running the axel blocks all the way back in the swing arm. It will do wonders for your rear end traction.
brimx153
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IE
11/25/2016 11:27am
Put a 1.6 or 2.0 radiator cap on it. That's about the only thing you need! I run the stock offset on clamps. The air forks...
Put a 1.6 or 2.0 radiator cap on it. That's about the only thing you need! I run the stock offset on clamps. The air forks that come on it stock is my favorite airfork, but I run the spring fork because I think it works better. The best thing to do for your bike is to try and make it lighter. Ti shock spring, guts light seat foam, Fmf ti Exhuast system are some huge weight savings. Enjoy your ride! I love mine!
brimx153 wrote:
do you run a diff linkage . i was thinking of getting a lowering link heard they are very good for the rm s, alway s...
do you run a diff linkage . i was thinking of getting a lowering link heard they are very good for the rm s, alway s feel my bike is high on the back end up running 110 to 115 sag . any imput on this would be great , if you have ever tryed them thanks a mill
Running more sag is usually just a band aid for bad suspension valving. I run the stock link at 100-102 sag. Run the forks flush if...
Running more sag is usually just a band aid for bad suspension valving. I run the stock link at 100-102 sag. Run the forks flush if you're not having trouble with turning and make sure you're running the axel blocks all the way back in the swing arm. It will do wonders for your rear end traction.
problem i am having is the front knifing going into corners , have to sit way back on the back on the bike to get it to turn well (i like riding over the front) .just feel as though there is too much weight on the front the whole time . i have put in heavier forks spring and it made a big difference . but it still turns better with more sag .which cause other problem s going over bumps . any idea s , would be greatly apreciacted , been strugling with it all year long . i actully have put the axel blocks back for this wk end so have to try that , and i always run the forks flush .still feels stink bug
11/25/2016 11:37am Edited Date/Time 11/25/2016 11:49am
Try cutting your subframe, I know that helped for Kyle last season. Coming from the Yamaha being the bike I rode before Suzuki, it doesn't feel stink bug or front end heavy at all to me. The axel blocks will help out huge! Have fun this weekend riding.
brimx153
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3338
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Location
IE
11/25/2016 11:45am
Try cutting your subframe, I know that helped for Kyle last season. Coming from the Yamaha being the bike I rode before Suzuki, it doesn't feel...
Try cutting your subframe, I know that helped for Kyle last season. Coming from the Yamaha being the bike I rode before Suzuki, it doesn't feel stink bug or front end heavy at all to me. The axel blocks will help out huge! Have fun this weekend riding.
cool thanks for the advice
11/25/2016 12:17pm
kiwifan wrote:
Bikes are like your GF/Wife, dont look after them they break down....give them regular love and attention and you can ride them forever Smile
Lol
11/25/2016 12:21pm
Try cutting your subframe, I know that helped for Kyle last season. Coming from the Yamaha being the bike I rode before Suzuki, it doesn't feel...
Try cutting your subframe, I know that helped for Kyle last season. Coming from the Yamaha being the bike I rode before Suzuki, it doesn't feel stink bug or front end heavy at all to me. The axel blocks will help out huge! Have fun this weekend riding.
Real wisdom #TopJimmy
kmp1219
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Carmel, IN US
11/25/2016 1:44pm
God damn, Jimmy Albertson is the freaking coolest dude ever.
brimx153
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3338
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IE
11/25/2016 1:55pm
kmp1219 wrote:
God damn, Jimmy Albertson is the freaking coolest dude ever.
x2

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