Is this just how 2 strokes are??

luckyguy19
Posts
247
Joined
10/24/2011
Location
Albuquerque, NM US
8/15/2014 7:10am
That first one is a good price for an OEM crank. But don't forget that's the crank only. You will still need crank bearings/seals and all the gaskets and seals. Off the top of my head you need two head o-rings, cylinder base gasket, right side cover gasket, water pump gasket, water pump seals x2, counter shaft seal, shift shaft seal, kick start seal.

OEM is always the best way to go if you can afford it. I still think the Hotrods kit is good for the price. Once you factor in all the gaskets and seals its almost half the price of OEM.
hillbilly
Posts
9080
Joined
8/16/2006
Location
Afton, TN US
8/15/2014 7:21am
luckyguy19 wrote:
That first one is a good price for an OEM crank. But don't forget that's the crank only. You will still need crank bearings/seals and all...
That first one is a good price for an OEM crank. But don't forget that's the crank only. You will still need crank bearings/seals and all the gaskets and seals. Off the top of my head you need two head o-rings, cylinder base gasket, right side cover gasket, water pump gasket, water pump seals x2, counter shaft seal, shift shaft seal, kick start seal.

OEM is always the best way to go if you can afford it. I still think the Hotrods kit is good for the price. Once you factor in all the gaskets and seals its almost half the price of OEM.
I've always had good hotrods cranks also.,think they come with crank seals.

Athena makes a complete seal/gasket kit,good quality.

I'd buy a compression tester at sears/craftsman for about 20 bucks and test it before teardown.

Put plug back in holder and lay on head to ground,throttle open wide and kick thru till gauge stops rising.
HazemG
Posts
545
Joined
9/24/2013
Location
LA, CA US
8/15/2014 7:47am
luckyguy19 wrote:
That first one is a good price for an OEM crank. But don't forget that's the crank only. You will still need crank bearings/seals and all...
That first one is a good price for an OEM crank. But don't forget that's the crank only. You will still need crank bearings/seals and all the gaskets and seals. Off the top of my head you need two head o-rings, cylinder base gasket, right side cover gasket, water pump gasket, water pump seals x2, counter shaft seal, shift shaft seal, kick start seal.

OEM is always the best way to go if you can afford it. I still think the Hotrods kit is good for the price. Once you factor in all the gaskets and seals its almost half the price of OEM.
I'll just do the hot rods kit then. I was thinking of having my OEM one rebuilt but that will take much longer to send it out to crank works and wait.
hillbilly
Posts
9080
Joined
8/16/2006
Location
Afton, TN US
8/15/2014 8:00am
hillbilly wrote:
You dont want a 2stroke to idel more than about 3 to 5 seconds. If you are not opening the throttle any and just kicking it...
You dont want a 2stroke to idel more than about 3 to 5 seconds.

If you are not opening the throttle any and just kicking it that is the problem.

Open the throttle half way and kick. It is not like a 4 stroke,it wont flood.
rmpilot wrote:
explain to me the idle part. what you are on the line or warming it up?
hillbilly wrote:
I'm about out of battery,this will take a while. If you set a 2str to idel,and they have always had a pilot jet ,no idea where...
I'm about out of battery,this will take a while.

If you set a 2str to idel,and they have always had a pilot jet ,no idea where you get a idle circut,but,if it idles it is a little lean to do so.

When charging into a corner or a long downhill and the throttle is closed the engine is turning a lot of rpm.

The idle way there is not enuff air/fuel mixture being pulled in to lubricate the crank and piston skirt.

My way,when the throttle is closed the pilot jet supplies fuel mixture because it is in front of the slide.

Battery is dead,be back later to tell more advantages
Setting a stroke to idle just a few seconds lets it suck fuel out of the pilot jet much more when the slide is closed.

This loads the crankcase with fuel,lubricating bearings and cooling the piston crown slightly.

This loaded fuel makes the engine spin up faster and hit harder when the throttle is opened.

I use a hill out the road to do jetting pulls up. When sorting out a new bike back then I would make untold runs up that hill trying different needle tapers and slides.

I'd get a slide with the lowest cutaway and start raising it half a millimeter till it was far past what was offered ,switching out and back with the stock slide so I could feel each and the difference.

When I used the oxidized fuel in early 00s it was amazing how big a jet you could put in and the engine still pull hard and run clean.

Miss those 2 str tuning days.

The Shop

ns503
Posts
3987
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
NS Toolies CA
8/15/2014 8:23am Edited Date/Time 8/15/2014 8:24am
On the starting issue - if you're starting it cold with no choke, your choke circuit is too rich. Which will also make it harder to start when warm.

Might have a worn choke plunger.

EDIT: which is really an enrichener, not a choke.
HazemG
Posts
545
Joined
9/24/2013
Location
LA, CA US
8/15/2014 2:54pm
ns503 wrote:
On the starting issue - if you're starting it cold with no choke, your choke circuit is too rich. Which will also make it harder to...
On the starting issue - if you're starting it cold with no choke, your choke circuit is too rich. Which will also make it harder to start when warm.

Might have a worn choke plunger.

EDIT: which is really an enrichener, not a choke.
Interesting thought..

Does anyone here think it would be a good idea to split the cases before ordering parts, inspecting the motor then ordering from there?

The only reason I ask (I had my bank card out ready to order 30 minutes ago) is that I don't know what size piston I need??

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