Garage workbenches

pmshortt2
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pmshortt2 11/8/2017 5:12am
11/8/2017 5:12am
So I close on this house on the 30th. It’ll be mine!! Cool This is the garage and what I will be working with. The workbenches are staying. I’m going to improve these benches, i dislike the kitchen tile top on the bench so im definitely gonna want to change that. Will be adding pegboard. And I really want to put some garage floor epoxy down before I start moving stuff in so I get that nice clean look. The upstairs man cave of the garage is a plus. I’m so stoked on this Smile oh and that old fridge is definitely getting sticker bombed lol











newmann
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newmann 11/8/2017 6:34am
11/8/2017 6:34am
Already has a vise!

Don't skimp on the epoxy for the floor. That is one thing that you do not want to fail and have to strip to redo in the future.

https://www.armorgarage.com/

Multiple stages of cleaning first and then primer after a couple days dry time.



Epoxy going down 24 hours later




And clear going down 24 hours after the epoxy




I wanted something bright so I went light gray with no color flake and no grit additive since the shop is climate controlled. Super easy to clean, even after a flood...lol.








ama530
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ama530 11/8/2017 7:54am
11/8/2017 7:54am
Great to see all of the members' shops. Built our barn 2 years ago. Took about 6 months to get it finished. Lots of work!! 1st floor is for the bikes and shop. 2nd floor loft is for our Lionel train collection/layout and some storage.





lumpy790
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lumpy790 11/8/2017 9:27am
11/8/2017 9:27am
Heavyrider wrote:
I went with two sets of New Age cabinets. Also hung the units on reinforced slatwall. [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/11/07/223851/s1200_Resized952017093095201605958587.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/11/07/223854/s1200_Resized952017090295193211001.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/11/07/223863/s1200_20171104_022159.jpg[/img]
I went with two sets of New Age cabinets. Also hung the units on reinforced slatwall.








Does that insulation work on the metal buildings?

The Shop

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Heavyrider
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Heavyrider 11/8/2017 10:06am
11/8/2017 10:06am
lumpy790 wrote:
Does that insulation work on the metal buildings?
Yes, it definitely makes a difference. This shop has insulated doors too and no roof vent so it's pretty tight.
pmshortt2
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pmshortt2 11/9/2017 4:52am
11/9/2017 4:52am
newmann wrote:
Already has a vise! Don't skimp on the epoxy for the floor. That is one thing that you do not want to fail and have to...
Already has a vise!

Don't skimp on the epoxy for the floor. That is one thing that you do not want to fail and have to strip to redo in the future.

https://www.armorgarage.com/

Multiple stages of cleaning first and then primer after a couple days dry time.



Epoxy going down 24 hours later




And clear going down 24 hours after the epoxy




I wanted something bright so I went light gray with no color flake and no grit additive since the shop is climate controlled. Super easy to clean, even after a flood...lol.








What is the best way to clean the floor and what did you use to clean it? So then primer and then the epoxy?
newmann
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newmann 11/9/2017 7:28am
11/9/2017 7:28am
Heavyrider wrote:
I went with two sets of New Age cabinets. Also hung the units on reinforced slatwall. [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/11/07/223851/s1200_Resized952017093095201605958587.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/11/07/223854/s1200_Resized952017090295193211001.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/11/07/223863/s1200_20171104_022159.jpg[/img]
I went with two sets of New Age cabinets. Also hung the units on reinforced slatwall.








lumpy790 wrote:
Does that insulation work on the metal buildings?
Insulation is a must have.
newmann
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newmann 11/9/2017 8:02am
11/9/2017 8:02am
newmann wrote:
Already has a vise! Don't skimp on the epoxy for the floor. That is one thing that you do not want to fail and have to...
Already has a vise!

Don't skimp on the epoxy for the floor. That is one thing that you do not want to fail and have to strip to redo in the future.

https://www.armorgarage.com/

Multiple stages of cleaning first and then primer after a couple days dry time.



Epoxy going down 24 hours later




And clear going down 24 hours after the epoxy




I wanted something bright so I went light gray with no color flake and no grit additive since the shop is climate controlled. Super easy to clean, even after a flood...lol.








pmshortt2 wrote:
What is the best way to clean the floor and what did you use to clean it? So then primer and then the epoxy?
I had some oil stains to deal with first so I got a gallon of wax and grease remover from an automotive paint supply store and soaked and scrubbed all the oil stains thoroughly. Tossed some oil dry down to absorb it. Did that a few times. Second step, scrubbed the floor with a commercial grade degrease diluted with water. Rinsed and squeegeed it up with a wet dry vac. Last step after that all dried was to scrub and rinse with the low odor muriatic acid supplied with the Armor Garage Epoxy kit. I let it all dry 48 hours before applying the primer. Keep an eye open for any spots where the primer beads up or doesn't flow out smooth. You may need to deal with any areas like this before putting the epoxy down.

The primer rolls on with a good quality roller for epoxy. They are supplied with the kit, but you may want to upgrade to some higher quality rollers. After 24 hours, the epoxy goes down in sections, poured out and squeegeed flat with a serrated squeegee and the rolled smooth. The next section of epoxy will go down in the same manner and will flow back into the previously applied section. After 24 hours you simply roll out a coat of clear. This is where you can add color flakes and a non slip grit additive if you choose.

Unlike the stuff from Lowes or Home Depot, this will hold up to hot tires and all sorts of chemicals.
nch209
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nch209 11/9/2017 11:11am
11/9/2017 11:11am
As previously mentioned, garage journal is the go to place for all things like this thread is talking about. Some of the builds are outrageous, and tons of good ideas over there!
byke
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byke 11/26/2017 2:37pm
11/26/2017 2:37pm
I use industrial pallet racks like this: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/bfd/d/teardrop-interlake-pallet/6…

Obviously without the wire tops. The horizontal pieces have a 1.5" deep lip, so you use 2x6 or 2x8 every couple feet and then set 3/4" plywood on top of it. It's really nice having a 4ft deep bench. If it's a project that you can't finish, just bin it and push parts to the back and you still have room to work on something else. Then I use 1/2" plywood for the higher levels and use it for storage. You can also cut the vertical pieces to fit whatever ceiling height you have.
ruy
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ruy 11/26/2017 5:06pm
11/26/2017 5:06pm


pmshortt2
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pmshortt2 12/1/2017 6:34am
12/1/2017 6:34am
newmann wrote:
Already has a vise! Don't skimp on the epoxy for the floor. That is one thing that you do not want to fail and have to...
Already has a vise!

Don't skimp on the epoxy for the floor. That is one thing that you do not want to fail and have to strip to redo in the future.

https://www.armorgarage.com/

Multiple stages of cleaning first and then primer after a couple days dry time.



Epoxy going down 24 hours later




And clear going down 24 hours after the epoxy




I wanted something bright so I went light gray with no color flake and no grit additive since the shop is climate controlled. Super easy to clean, even after a flood...lol.








pmshortt2 wrote:
What is the best way to clean the floor and what did you use to clean it? So then primer and then the epoxy?
newmann wrote:
I had some oil stains to deal with first so I got a gallon of wax and grease remover from an automotive paint supply store and...
I had some oil stains to deal with first so I got a gallon of wax and grease remover from an automotive paint supply store and soaked and scrubbed all the oil stains thoroughly. Tossed some oil dry down to absorb it. Did that a few times. Second step, scrubbed the floor with a commercial grade degrease diluted with water. Rinsed and squeegeed it up with a wet dry vac. Last step after that all dried was to scrub and rinse with the low odor muriatic acid supplied with the Armor Garage Epoxy kit. I let it all dry 48 hours before applying the primer. Keep an eye open for any spots where the primer beads up or doesn't flow out smooth. You may need to deal with any areas like this before putting the epoxy down.

The primer rolls on with a good quality roller for epoxy. They are supplied with the kit, but you may want to upgrade to some higher quality rollers. After 24 hours, the epoxy goes down in sections, poured out and squeegeed flat with a serrated squeegee and the rolled smooth. The next section of epoxy will go down in the same manner and will flow back into the previously applied section. After 24 hours you simply roll out a coat of clear. This is where you can add color flakes and a non slip grit additive if you choose.

Unlike the stuff from Lowes or Home Depot, this will hold up to hot tires and all sorts of chemicals.
Thanks for all the information on the armorgarage stuff. I’m painting this weekend and moving the rest of my stuff in next weekend. Gotta spend some money on a couple other things before I can fork out $650 for the epoxy kit but I want to do it right and make it last so I’m gonna wait about 2 months before I get all my garage stuff in, im gonna order the kit and get to work Cool The workbenches are built into the walls it seems, i suppose it would be okay to go around them? Everything else I can just store upstairs while I am putting the epoxy down.

Would also like to put some wall up to cover exposed insulation.

Pit Row

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