First used 2011 crf, what to check?

Good luck man!!! Bring it to a Honda dealer here them do a leak down and compression check, other than that it’s a Honda, congrats

Is that left foot peg bent/sagging? Reroute that front brake line before it gets ripped off.

Good tip on the re routing, regarding the bent peg, i have no idea, i havent done any business yet, hopefully everything goes well tomorrow!

newmann wrote:

Is that left foot peg bent/sagging? Reroute that front brake line before it gets ripped off.

X2,. 2 red flags already.

Pretty gnarly big flat spot in that rear wheel! What do you think the real world used value is of your Santa cruise mtb?

newmann wrote:

Is that left foot peg bent/sagging? Reroute that front brake line before it gets ripped off.

mxb2 wrote:

X2,. 2 red flags already.

3.... Missing radiator louvers on both sides.

Mace-x ....one thing to check is that the numbers match frame/engine/title if there is one. Doesnt strike me that youre in the US so im not sure if titles are handled where youre at

Dang, that rear rim is toast. Doesn't look like this bike received a lot of love.

Your bike is worth about $1600 in the states from the condition that I can tell.


I'm not sure what 7 year old 250Fs are worth in Chile, but you seem to be on the losing end of this trade. If you need to pony up cash on your end, I wouldn't give him anything more than $400 USD

check steering head. Make sure the forks dont wiggle forward to backward and that the bars dont flop to one side by themselves.

Check l wheel bearing. Have your friend turn the bars to full lock. Wiggle the wheel and feel for play. Do the same for the rear wheel.

Check linkage. Put bike on a stand and lift the swingarm. There should be no play.

Make sure the motor turns over.

Make sure it shifts through all the gears.

Start it and let it run till warm and look underneath with a flashlight for leaks.

Check chain/sprocket wear

Make sure throttle works properly

Last is to look over the entire bike and think of questions to ask the seller. This will be the only time you can learn about the history of it. Ask about hours and motor work/maintenance

The picture of the side of the rad also shows marks on the side of the frame, these are most likely wear marks from the tank/plastics rubbing on the frame. Check for that elsewhere, especially where the cables run alongside the frame from the bars. That movement can actually wear the frame thin.

I'd be interested in the reason for the new rads too, not decent but listed as an 'upgrade' so I assume they got flattened at some point, which is interesting as they haven't got them covered.

Great checklist ^

Your MTB has got to be worth about a grand alone hasn't it? So say you're chucking 2.5k into this CRF, and bear in mind photos usually do bikes/vehicles justice so if it looks pretty beat up in the photos then expect it to look a bit worse in reality.

What's the market for those bikes like over there? Seems a bit steep considering the faults identified in the pics. I think if you're swapping your MTB and have to throw some cash in the mix as well then give him a 1/3 of your original offer. I wouldn't part with more than $500 on top of the MTB personally.

Check the crank 2010 and 2011 and 12 A lot of people had problems with the crank lower big end bearing wearing out prematurely fast.

I wouldn't buy that bike it's been whipped and beat on new plastics trying to cover up how thrashed it was.

Biggest red flag is guy is willing to trade it off for a mtb and cash he probably senses it will blow up soon. Your looking at a 2 grand beater (if that) his upgrades are not upgrades just replacing the worn out broken parts.

I see, the prices are quite low for mtb and quite high for bikes actually here in chile.

a 2011 crf 250 goes for about $3700-$4000 usd
the santa cruz nomad carbon can be sold at around $1500 usd, it costed me around $1400
and he´s asking for the bike plus $1660

So would be a crf 250 for around $3000, quite cheap, my brother bought a crf250 2008 at that price, and it´s considered cheap here.

i´d be willing to buy a rear rim since you guys are right, that rim seems to be toasted, i think that, if the engine is in good shape everything else is quite cheap and replaceable.

I wouldn't buy a bike from a person that can't even route their front brake line correct.

newmann wrote:

Is that left foot peg bent/sagging? Reroute that front brake line before it gets ripped off.

I think it's two different bikes - the pics in the top have black fork guards with properly routed brake line, and a green hour meter on the frame. Which bike am I buying....???

Make sure you look at the engine cradle area of the frame too. Mine and a buddy of mine had ours dent before putting on skid plates

Make sure you look at the engine cradle area of the frame too. Mine and a buddy of mine had ours dent before putting on skid plates

Check for a rats nest and for some form of an internet water army. Ask Tamir about the bike.

tia

None of those "upgrades" are actual upgrades. Those are items they trashed and replaced with junk. Those are not "high flow radiators and hoses". Those are total garbage off Ebay. Ask him why he replaced the radiators with $30 Ebay junk instead of factory Honda radiators?

That back rim to totally trashed and needs replaced. Who owne this bike? Seth Enslow?

Tell him to put new rims and Honda OEM radiators on it and maybe you can talk. Till then I can see $500 in damage it has to it.

Im guess this bike is owned by a teenager who has trashed it and now its a money pit to them so they want to part with it.

Heres what I would do. Keep my mountain bike and my $1660. Save a couple bucks more and go buy a year 2000-2003 two stroke for under $2,000. It wont have half this issues of this piece of junk has.

I would run away fast as possible or you will be out $1600 and a nice bike. You are getting a bad deal.

Dont buy that. Dont even trade him your MTB straight up for that.

Going to side with the “no” vote here. That bike looks tough, and it’s a 250. What’s a complete top end, crank and bearings cost? Add that in, and see if you still like the price.

I want your mtb more than the crf .... If ur in cali (looks like your not) i know of a WAAAAAY cleaner 2012 crf250 for 2900.

Mace-x wrote:

Ok guys, i´m so fucking happy, tomorrow i´ll go and see a 2011 crf 250r for myself, never tought i´d be able to buy a bike, i´m so happy!

what should i check?
it´s my first bike so i dont know really what to look on it, here´s some pictures.














it has these upgrades according to the guy:
-Zeta Brake Discs
-new braking pads
-acerbis plastics kit
-front dunlop mx52 tyre
-rear unilli tyre
-rear hub bearings
-renthal 50t sprocket
-new grips
-new clutch
-high flow radiator and hoses

and he has the rear linkage bushings on the way and wil give them to me once they arrive.

i´d be giving my 2011 santa cruz nomad carbon plus $1660 usd




Thanks a lot vital for the help, you guys rock!
ps:i bought a 2014 tld lucas oil racing gear and plan to make the bike graphics aswell, i´m so fucking happy, hope everything goes well!

Not worth a penny more than $2k

newmann wrote:

Is that left foot peg bent/sagging? Reroute that front brake line before it gets ripped off.

endo wrote:

I think it's two different bikes - the pics in the top have black fork guards with properly routed brake line, and a green hour meter on the frame. Which bike am I buying....???

Put down the crack pipe.

mx965 wrote:

Dont buy that. Dont even trade him your MTB straight up for that.

^what he said.

Don't buy it. High possibility it's roached. You'll soon or immediately have to start investing more into it.

Stripped oil cover bolt?

I just hate when the bar pad cover is upside down. Don't buy it.