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The Shop
While thats there, wait on Renthal Twinwall RC high, Renthal mounts, +10 higher, if the gearing is ok imo, just an o-ring chain (I ride hondas, they come with good sprockets), and oversized rotor kit to come in from BTO. Whiles all tore apart, take everything else apart and lube with Bel Ray waterproof. Might or might not grab a yosh for it.... who am I kidding, gotta have some ti trickery on your mx weaponry, Sunline levers and pegs, One Ind for some backgrounds after my kids pick my number.
Then, when I get it back from Reynard, go moto it up and tweak from there.
Pit Row
And of coarse .....full Moto Hose colored hoses & custom graphics....before anything else LOL
If you are a 170 pound inter, most springs will work for you as they come. Most forget though, that springs are more for bike attitude (ride height) and where the suspension rides in the travel. The valving is where the magic happens up front, and out back.
Im lucky enough that my weight and speed translates into something very close to Robbies faster speed but lower weight. I have a different oil height, and go 1 step up on springs on both ends, but the valving he runs works for me with the clickers 1 or 2 back on the forks and the oil height 10~30cc higher. Out back, I run his settings and love it.
2) Grease the bike (factory does a crappy job)
3) Suspension tune
4) Hoses
5) Nuts and Bolts
6)Exhaust
(seriously though, it will be suspension)
The it's ergonomic stuff like setting the bars and levers
Set the sag and check the spring rates
I usually replace the chain and sprockets and keep the OEM for when I sell it. Sometimes the plastic too.
Nahh but seriously,
Number plate back rounds, couple no toil filters, And set my sag
If it isn't broke, why fix it.
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