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Sweet ride! Congrats!
https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/Lets-see-review-those-20…
The Shop
Read up on the 1000 page thread on here
On a side note, I got a killer deal on my son's new YZ65 from Power Motorsports. Would use again!
-lower *and* upper chain roller
-Acerbis chain guide and swingarm buffer (cheaper and better looking IMHO than the TM designs)
-never seize on the chain adjuster bolts
But almost nothing else is needed on this one. These '19-up bikes are soooo good. I don't know what suspension changes were made on the '21, but the '19 forks were solid with just a slight bump in oil level (335 cc). I sold mine in favor of some KYB A-kit forks, but I am still running the stock shock with not even a re-valve.
Edit: the '21 clutch is supposed to be really good, enjoy it!
From SoCal vet riding experience, here are a couple recommendations: grease, anti-seize, and loctite that beauty before riding; 116L chain with 13-51 gearing to re-position the rear wheel; slip-on exhaust with stock header is a good way to go (really like the PC and Yosh versions); 110/90-19 rear tire; toss the stock grips (and vulcanized throttle tube) for something more comfortable (there are a few aftermarket options for quicker-turn throttle tubes which also perk it up); throw the white coupler into the holeshot/EFI indicator plug if you want to clear up bar space by removing the entire system; ride it stock BEFORE tuning on the suspension, it will give you a better baseline and appreciation for how close Kawasaki got this 2019+ platform - At 200lbs and with 25+ hours on my 20', all I've changed is +20cc's in the forks with the optional stiffer OEM's springs (5.2N/MM front and 56N/MM rear), coupled with clicker changes and a minor revalve on the shock...Enjoy that beauty
Edit: Add ARC front brake lever to the list if you don't like the pencil-thin stocker.
PS: Is that an 18" rear wheel and kickstand in the dealership photo? If so, disregard the 110/90-19 mention!
Hopefully you ride it more then that Green Monster Rides you.
That goes for any Bike. Glad your still riding my friend
Pit Row
I've had all brands and for some reason, Kawasaki has the worst fasteners (specifically the female side) in the business.
The larger (M8 and up) stuff seems ok on the bikes.
How about some photos of that center port CZ you mention in your signature?!
"1975 250 CZ Centerport, laydown shocks, mikuni with reed valve, Marzocchi fork"
Congrats on the KX450, welcome to the Team Green Family. There's plenty of good info in that 160+ page thread!
Do not crash.
Crashing is bad.
throw the white coupler into the holeshot/EFI indicator plug if you want to clear up bar space by removing the entire system
I am one of the rare riders that actually like the OEM bar with crossbar, but would like to free ups some space for handquards. What have others done beyond moving the switches to where their no longer easily accessible.
Not saying I've never stripped a bolt on my bikes before but on my MY16 bike I had 4 fasteners that were buggered from the OEM. Couple on the body panels, couple elsewhere. All M6's. One of the fuel tank inserts I had to spin out because the bolt was cross-threaded from new.
My MY11 bike had a couple also that just weren't quite right from the OEM.
Just my observations, perhaps its a sample size of one situation but I have other folks that echo similar issues with green machines.
Tim507 was looking for advise. Thought I'd chime in.
Post a reply to: First Ever Kawasaki - KX450 What do I need to know?