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Athens, TN
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09 kx450 I hit a tree and busted the brake line about a month and a half ago and I just got all the parts to put it back together and I put the new brake light on and I cannot get it to bleed I've tried conventional bleeding and back bleeding it if I slam the front brake wheel hard it. Will build some pressure but then bleed back off immediately If I rapidly pump it really fast to get any kind of pressure built up and immediately cracked the valve it still does not shoot any air or fluid and I've noticed when pumping the brake and cracking open the bleeder valve you do not hear it spit out air or fluid for that matter thanks for y'all's help
In the mean time, take the caliper off the bike and elevate it above the handlebars so the line is running up hill with the bleeder nipple at the highest point. It will help to use zip ties or a bungee cord to strap it to the ceiling or a shelf or something to keep it up there. Put a thin piece of wood or something about the thickness of the rotor between the pads.
Take the cap off the reservoir, open the nipple, and keep pumping fluid uphill with the lever and filling the reservoir until fluid comes out the nipple at the top. Close the nipple while keeping pressure in on the lever so it doesn't suck air back in.
This is usually a sure fire way to get a great bleed. If this doesn't work your master cylinder is screwed up or something with the line or banjo bolts.
The Shop
Before looking for a rebuild or a new MC, try this first. Orient the master cylinder in such a way that air can't get trapped at the fitting coming out of the MC. This is a new line and the air and the brake fluid are essentially competing for the same space.
Try to get the brake line as straight as possible. Take it off the fork if you have to. Go through your bleeding process. Keep in mind this is going to be a slow process. If your MC isn't damaged, you should start to get some lever feel.
If you're not having luck with the supplied banjo bolt and you've tried every trick under the sun, try using the original banjo using the same process.
If all else fails, call up Galfer. They're customer service is really good.
Good luck.
The banjo bolt length isn’t all that important. What is important is the orientation of the washers that came with it.
Did you smack the master cylinder on the tree or just rip the brake line off?
Pit Row
To do this without problems you’ll need a good one-way valve on the caliper side. Motion Pro makes a great tool for this. I think they’re only around $25.
1. Pump lever & hold
2. Crack bleeder until lever hits bar and hold lever
3. Close bleeder and repeat.
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