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What batteries are you using? I am using Sony 18650 VTC6 20S21P. Your weight is about normal for electrics 255lbs.
My battery packs are quick change. I live in Lake Havasu AZ, and have had it at the track a few times, getting the bugs worked out. My quick change packs are in three packs of 20S7P cells. I only have the 2 installed now, above the motor. The 3rd pack is close to being finished. It will fit in the airbox. The controller sits inside the old gas tank. With the controller limited to 350A now, it is fast, I am anxious to put the full 630 to it soon.
I know how much work goes into one of these. I applaud your work. They are so fun to ride. We will see you at the first all electric race some where, as soon as this Covid thing passes.
I will get a post started about my build with more pictures.
So how about accomplishing the same task, but slightly differently? What if the "universal set up" became that the right lever (throttle side) was the front brake, like it is on your dirt machine now. The left lever is the back brake; when applied, the first 10mm (or so) of travel pulls the pin away from the throttle engagement. As long as you're pulling in the left brake lever, even a little bit, the throttle does nothing.
When you let off the left lever, you'd have to let off the throttle completely, which lets the pin go over the bump (the pin folds freely one direction), and it re-engages the accelerator again.
I can see this not being desirable for people who like to use the rear brake while on the throttle. It's also another point of failure in the throttle area. It doesn't solve all the wants of a clutch. Still it gives you a little ability to shut it all down.
...or am I overthinking this, and the left bar has an easily reachable toggle button that shuts everything down? Would my body hit the toggle button at some point, or is that a myth? Can I reach the button when I'm out of control?
The Shop
In most Ebike controllers, even bicycles, there are switches in the brake levers that turn off the motor. On my E dirt bikes I have a smaller lever on the clutch side of the bars, (off an e-bicycle) that engages Regen braking, but also shuts the motor power off. In the Kelly controllers, you can then define how much regen you want. On a moto track it is great, you just keep slowing down using regen and brakes together. Here is a pic of my eKTM
I have the same regen control on my new Yamaha Electric.
Perhaps that's why it seemed so controllable?
I've been of the opinion that I really want a Clutch on an E bike, for Safety and more Rider control.
But, as a bloke that has used LHR brakes for decades on his bikes, I can see how such a switch on the brake, might deliver what I want.
Though, I'd still like a clutch. I'm used to 2 levers on the LH side :
I can see how there might have to be some sort of Rev Limiter / Control over the speed of rev rise when you pull in a Clutch on an E Bike - it sure would rev much, much quicker under no load than an ICE bike would!
Could you put up more pictures of your E-KTM, please?
There is more info on this eKTM build on EVablum #3817. evalbum.com
Your E-Yamaha not on there? I couldn't find it.
Once a fair few other Bicycle and Motorcycle frames I'm committed to make, and a Sports Sedan Chassis project I'm involved with are done, I hope to find a bit of personal time to do my own E assist bicycle. Damage I've accumulated of the decades has left my pedaling power at around the 5 years olds level.
Then, with one of my riders being a E vehicle fanatic, and an accomplished Battery Pack maker, and another being an E Tech Master (which I sure as hell am Not) , I'll do a full sized Dirt Bike, using a current (when I / We finally do it) rolling chassis. I've absolutely No interest in a glorified MTB type of E Motorcycle, only a real, full sized bike.
I’m gonna need you to do up a Suzuki rendition of this!!!
Looks very cool!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/electricmotorcyclebuilds/permalink/2174…
https://altaownersforum.com/threads/diy-conversions-can-be-dangerous.21…
Pit Row
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