Barndominiums

mule2500
Posts
1
Joined
8/1/2020
Location
Elmwood, IL US
8/1/2020 5:18pm
I am living in my "2nd" barndominium that I built.(for sale BTW with 26 acres !!! Motoheaven! I have had no trouble getting loans. Just went locally to a credit union.Rates were comparable. They had to extend their usual 5 mile radius to find comparables for the appraisel but other thasn that smooth sailing. Don't forget the real estate tax savings as well!! In floor heat and mini-splits are the way to go here in IL imho
2
reded
Posts
3685
Joined
3/26/2011
Location
KS US
8/1/2020 6:03pm
What do you think about a mini split in a 30x40 with spray foam insulation without floor heat? Would it stay comfortable (60) down to 0degF? It calls for a 24k BTU unit but I think I’d rather go with two 12k units in opposite ends of the building. My thoughts behind this are;
1. Super efficient
2. I won’t necessarily need the A/C In the summer but the thought of working in a dehumidified building at 80 deg seems way better than just opening the doors and hoping it cools down when outside temp is 95 with 70%RH.
ellisr906
Posts
6
Joined
7/31/2020
Location
Mocksville, NC US
8/2/2020 3:18pm
I'm not an authority on mini splits but I do know that the infrared sensors work best if it reads out across the room. I would think that if the two were on opposite sides of the room they might not function as well. My space is 30x30 and I have them installed on the same wall at each corner. I would think if you installed 2 12k units on one of the 40' walls at equal spacing off the corners they would heat and cool very efficiently.
MX915
Posts
469
Joined
1/17/2018
Location
Central, NJ US
8/2/2020 3:51pm
reded wrote:
What do you think about a mini split in a 30x40 with spray foam insulation without floor heat? Would it stay comfortable (60) down to 0degF...
What do you think about a mini split in a 30x40 with spray foam insulation without floor heat? Would it stay comfortable (60) down to 0degF? It calls for a 24k BTU unit but I think I’d rather go with two 12k units in opposite ends of the building. My thoughts behind this are;
1. Super efficient
2. I won’t necessarily need the A/C In the summer but the thought of working in a dehumidified building at 80 deg seems way better than just opening the doors and hoping it cools down when outside temp is 95 with 70%RH.
Just an FYI, most mini splits provide 100% of their rated heating capacity down to 47F outdoor temp. After that they take a pretty big derate. At 0F you’d probably be getting around 50% of the rated capacity.

There are exceptions. Mitsubishi H2I models are 100% down to about 5F or a true, commercial style VRF would do it too you have a big enough thermal load (but even some of those take a serious capacity hit on the heating side in cold climates).

The Shop

byke
Posts
1423
Joined
8/12/2015
Location
Auburn, CA US
8/2/2020 3:52pm
More pictures!
4
DaBaum44
Posts
329
Joined
1/21/2017
Location
IN US
8/2/2020 9:07pm
Following...I've been researching for awhile now. Good to hear pointers from others with experience.
cz2crf2wc
Posts
505
Joined
11/22/2013
Location
Solona Beach, CA US
8/3/2020 1:50am
What are the prices per sq. ft compared to conventional homes? minus land. Thanks
ellisr906
Posts
6
Joined
7/31/2020
Location
Mocksville, NC US
8/3/2020 2:43am
My initial budget was $250k. We have a 50 x 70 shop that has a two story living area built inside that is 16 x 38 plus an attached kitchen family room off one side of the building that is 30 x 30. Total initial heated footage was 2116 + 2892 in the shop gave a total footage of building at 5008. Depending on how you calculate your per ft cost weather its heated footage only that got us in at $118 per ft. (no land) or $50 per ft total sq ft heated and unheated.

Bottom line for us was when we started planning to build on the land we had I was planning to build a separate shop from the house but the cost to build was much higher as two structures than one.

Some factors to consider
1. Utility connections - Water/Power/Sewer all in one structure
2. Finished living area under one roof. Meaning the shop area already has a blank envelope inside and if you plan your needs for the space you need upfront then you won't loose any valuable shop area.

Here is one I'm currently working on that was modified from my place and has more finished space. Total heated 3435 with 2240 shop.It has the same size footprint as mine just more finished area in the shop. Lot's of flexibility to design space for your needs.





2
wardy
Posts
1765
Joined
3/31/2008
Location
US
8/3/2020 9:03am
nice. my ole hell hole i live in well we built it in 1986. 138x40. 66x40 house, 72x40 shop

some day it will get finished LOL


never will be as nice as these photos. but sure like the cheap taxes
woodsgoon
Posts
117
Joined
11/24/2018
Location
IN US
2/11/2021 9:20am
update on my build. Had someone message and ask some questions so i figured id come back and post some updates. 40x80x17 building 40x40 house 40x40 garage. 20x40 loft in the house 8x40 loft in the garage. 10x40 rear porch 10x40 front porch. 3 bed, 2 bath, 17 foot ceilings in living and kitchen area with loft overlooking. Garage and house share the spare bathroom/laundry room.






12
usp4u
Posts
587
Joined
3/25/2011
Location
Karns City, PA US
2/11/2021 10:19am
ellisr906 wrote:
My initial budget was $250k. We have a 50 x 70 shop that has a two story living area built inside that is 16 x 38...
My initial budget was $250k. We have a 50 x 70 shop that has a two story living area built inside that is 16 x 38 plus an attached kitchen family room off one side of the building that is 30 x 30. Total initial heated footage was 2116 + 2892 in the shop gave a total footage of building at 5008. Depending on how you calculate your per ft cost weather its heated footage only that got us in at $118 per ft. (no land) or $50 per ft total sq ft heated and unheated.

Bottom line for us was when we started planning to build on the land we had I was planning to build a separate shop from the house but the cost to build was much higher as two structures than one.

Some factors to consider
1. Utility connections - Water/Power/Sewer all in one structure
2. Finished living area under one roof. Meaning the shop area already has a blank envelope inside and if you plan your needs for the space you need upfront then you won't loose any valuable shop area.

Here is one I'm currently working on that was modified from my place and has more finished space. Total heated 3435 with 2240 shop.It has the same size footprint as mine just more finished area in the shop. Lot's of flexibility to design space for your needs.





Is the "Guest Room" captive ? Meaning, you have to go through the Master to get there. Kinda looks that way.
byke
Posts
1423
Joined
8/12/2015
Location
Auburn, CA US
2/11/2021 10:32am Edited Date/Time 2/11/2021 10:33am
Looks like it has access through the garage and maybe a deck/outside area?
dl117
Posts
1549
Joined
2/8/2007
Location
Cambridge, MN US
Fantasy
2587th
2/11/2021 10:40am
usp4u wrote:
Is the "Guest Room" captive ? Meaning, you have to go through the Master to get there. Kinda looks that way.
looks like the stairway is next to the master door, so by the looks of the print it is not captive
crusher773
Posts
1760
Joined
12/23/2009
Location
Coweta, OK US
2/11/2021 10:46am
They are cool but we had some friends that had one and they had a fire in the shop portion. So it also burned down their house. That's the main drawback I see is if some kind of accident in the shop it also effects your house.
3
woodsgoon
Posts
117
Joined
11/24/2018
Location
IN US
2/11/2021 10:50am
crusher773 wrote:
They are cool but we had some friends that had one and they had a fire in the shop portion. So it also burned down their...
They are cool but we had some friends that had one and they had a fire in the shop portion. So it also burned down their house. That's the main drawback I see is if some kind of accident in the shop it also effects your house.
Attached garages arent exactly a new concept.....
6
crusher773
Posts
1760
Joined
12/23/2009
Location
Coweta, OK US
2/11/2021 3:21pm
yeah but I think guys just end up doing more in their shop. You end up with tractors and cars and just bigger projects in there welding and stuff that s lot of the time wouldn't be done in an attached garage. Accidents can happen anywhere though.
BA Braapus
Posts
11
Joined
12/11/2019
Location
Dewitt, MI US
2/11/2021 9:19pm
Nice projects, Ellisr906 & Woodsgoon. Some good tips, there too!

I noticed the direct connection between the first floor Guest room and garage on the plans posted above (and I see a few others had some questions about that room). Sorry to point this out, but openings between garages and rooms used for sleeping are not permitted, typically. This would be true in any states that use the International Residential Code or a state code based on it, such as the NC Residential Code (unless the state adopts an exception to this or changes their code language). Not sure if you've built this project yet (I know it's been a few months since you posted the plans), but that might be a sticking point for you if someone catches it, even if a building official reviewed the plans prior to issuing a building permit and missed it initially.

A few other notes if constructing a building such as this... 1) If using studs for exterior walls, stud size may need to be increased for the tall exterior garage area walls. I've had to bump up studs to 2x8's in some cases for walls taller than 14' or 15' (I don't recall exact threshold)...this will vary by building width (load on walls), site, wind loads, etc. The same applies to post framing...make sure the posts are sized (calculated) for adequacy based on given conditions. 2) Sheathing at the corners of stud walls is definitely needed and in many cases it will be needed at intermediate locations as well, as code requires "braced panels" typically 20' max apart if not installed continuously, though 1x or 2x horizontal strapping may be acceptable in some cases. 3) If building a pole structure make sure there is diagonal wind bracing between posts at corners and elsewhere if required by local jurisdiction (long buildings will likely require it at various locations). 4) If possible, have an engineer or architect run some calcs to be sure the structure is adequate (or have them design from the start). Yes, this will add cost but it will reduce the likelihood of code-related problems or conflicts during inspections and help ensure the project is structurally sound. If nothing else, at least make sure the lumber yard confirms structural members required if nobody else calculated anything prior.
2/11/2021 9:59pm
BA Braapus wrote:
Nice projects, Ellisr906 & Woodsgoon. Some good tips, there too! I noticed the direct connection between the first floor Guest room and garage on the plans...
Nice projects, Ellisr906 & Woodsgoon. Some good tips, there too!

I noticed the direct connection between the first floor Guest room and garage on the plans posted above (and I see a few others had some questions about that room). Sorry to point this out, but openings between garages and rooms used for sleeping are not permitted, typically. This would be true in any states that use the International Residential Code or a state code based on it, such as the NC Residential Code (unless the state adopts an exception to this or changes their code language). Not sure if you've built this project yet (I know it's been a few months since you posted the plans), but that might be a sticking point for you if someone catches it, even if a building official reviewed the plans prior to issuing a building permit and missed it initially.

A few other notes if constructing a building such as this... 1) If using studs for exterior walls, stud size may need to be increased for the tall exterior garage area walls. I've had to bump up studs to 2x8's in some cases for walls taller than 14' or 15' (I don't recall exact threshold)...this will vary by building width (load on walls), site, wind loads, etc. The same applies to post framing...make sure the posts are sized (calculated) for adequacy based on given conditions. 2) Sheathing at the corners of stud walls is definitely needed and in many cases it will be needed at intermediate locations as well, as code requires "braced panels" typically 20' max apart if not installed continuously, though 1x or 2x horizontal strapping may be acceptable in some cases. 3) If building a pole structure make sure there is diagonal wind bracing between posts at corners and elsewhere if required by local jurisdiction (long buildings will likely require it at various locations). 4) If possible, have an engineer or architect run some calcs to be sure the structure is adequate (or have them design from the start). Yes, this will add cost but it will reduce the likelihood of code-related problems or conflicts during inspections and help ensure the project is structurally sound. If nothing else, at least make sure the lumber yard confirms structural members required if nobody else calculated anything prior.
Your name ;-)
byke
Posts
1423
Joined
8/12/2015
Location
Auburn, CA US
2/12/2021 9:23am Edited Date/Time 2/12/2021 9:23am
Obviously a quality build, but surprised at the price for such little acreage and in rural KY 90min from any major cities. Pretty sure one could build the same on more acreage in overpriced California for less.
2

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