Backing out cylinder studs

Liquid wrench is garbage. Get yourself some Aerokroil - https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/…

Let it penetrate for up to 12-24 hours. Apply more heat before trying to back them out. A lot of heat.

Try heating your engine from below, also. The trick is to warm the engine cases more than the studs. If you blast the studs with a blowtorch, you are just expanding the studs in their holes.

It sounds like new studs will be the safest bet. After applying heat and torquing them out of the old head, can they really be trusted?

I would have to recommend new studs as well, I wouldn't be worried about the integrity of the metal, since they will feel much more stress during tightening then they would being removed, however I would be concerned about the integrity of the threads since doing the double nut method is likely to cause them to yield. Once the threads have yielded, forget it, they're junk.

@Falcon up there has some good advice as well - where you concentrate the heat is important. You want the cases surrounding the studs to expand. A good pinpoint butane/propane torch usually does the trick.

When it comes to engine work, I generally avoid anything involving a hammer or a "whacking" motion but a common trick to loosen rusted bolts is to whack the head with a hard rubber mallet or ballpeen hammer to 'shock' the threads/corrosion loose. Walk a fine line here since this is a cylinder head. Do it after heat. When trying to back out the stud, gently apply torque in both directions (loosen, tighten), ever so slightly with gently increasing positive torque. You're trying to 'jostle' things loose.

In the end, you may just be better off getting new studs.

go new---be true

There is a tool for removing studs, it grabs them below the threads, it's very handy tool to have. EBay or Google it

There is a tool for removing studs, it grabs them below the threads, it's very handy tool to have. If not this time Next time. EBay or Google it

Don't even bother. Just get new studs. Your time and frustration is worth much more than a few new studs. Not to mention they'll probably be ruined by the time you get them out.

There is a really good chance you are gonna take the threads out with the stud.

Ive got a set of cornwell stud removers. They look like sockets. They wrap around the stud and tighten down when you turn them. Have pulled studs out of a 5.0 motor, many dirtbike motors and have never had them slip either. Look around for those. Thats the correct way to do it.

I use cutting wax instead of penetrating oil in combination with heat, but I agree, if you've torched the shit out of them already it is better to just buy new studs.

Always use new studs. Metal may have fatigued and not give correct compression when head nut is torqued . I remember a guy having chronic head gasket leaks until he changed the head studs in his KX250. Cheap insurance.

That's what I was going to recommend too. As you turn it, it tightens on the stud and gets it right out. Just count on replacing it because it will ruin the threads.