Another Moto Van Build

john.aron
Posts
85
Joined
7/3/2016
Location
Boulder, CO US
7/4/2016 3:25pm Edited Date/Time 7/9/2020 8:31am
Hey Vital Folks,

My names John Maguire and I'm a 27 year old former East Coaster currently living and riding in Boulder, CO. I've only been at this a couple years now but I truly believe this is the best sport on Earth. I came to this game pretty late but I'm doing my best to develop as quickly as possible. I've gotten by the last two years riding out of my F-150, which works well for day trips, but it just doesn't make sense for longer destinations. In addition to 3 days a week at the local tracks, I try to go to CA twice a year and TX once a year. I have a pretty flexible work schedule, and can often work remotely so it ends up being the hotels that break the budget and bring me back home. When my dad offered me the old family Corolla, which could be used as a daily driver, I pulled the trigger on the moto-van.

I've spent the last couple months researching all sorts of different builds and trying to figure out exactly what worked best. I think I have a good plan in the works but thought it would be fun to go about this build in a public forum. I'm looking for feedback and ideas. Hopefully this will be useful to anyone else looking to see what works and what doesn't.

9 to 5 I'm a full time aerospace engineer and I also own a small woodworking company. This means that there is a full wood-shop available when we eventually build out the cabinets. I'm hoping doing this in a public forum will force me to do it right and not cut corners.

Thanks for following along and I look forward to hearing feedback.

I've decided to go with a 2009 Chevy Express 3500 Extended. I picked it up for $13,200 out the door with registration, taxes and all fees. It's got 100k on the clock and was a former Lincare fleet vehicle, used for oxygen transport. It was a little more than I wanted to pay but it's incredible how good of condition its in. Since I plan to drive this thing all over the country, I was OK paying a little more for quality.

Here are a few photos from day 1:







The cargo area was in pretty good shape but there were some bare metal spots that I decided to touch up. I'm not planning to do a vapor barrier so I know water will condense on this outside skin. Luckily there was no rust to deal with.



I also went ahead a bought a small pack of Dynmat to install on the metal to get rid of some of the rattling of the panels. In hindsight this was a waste of money. Don't bother with this...You need a crazy amount to make a significant difference and the other insulation achieves the same effect.




I'm planning on having a living area up front behind the driver and passenger seats so I care the most about this area being well insulated. I went ahead and applied reflectix to the first few panels and the ceiling to maximize thermal insulation in this compartment. There are several vents that Lincare installed to mitigate the problems associated with O2 leakage, but it was easy to insulate around these. There is some rust on the inside around the roof vent but since I'm not going to insulate that area, I haven't gotten around to it yet.



More to come in the next post...
|
Gale19XX
Posts
341
Joined
11/9/2014
Location
Dubuque, IA US
7/4/2016 3:53pm
Look forward to seeing the progress!
john.aron
Posts
85
Joined
7/3/2016
Location
Boulder, CO US
7/4/2016 4:06pm
Next I went ahead and filled the metal studs with fiberglass insulation. Home depot was basically giving away this stuff so I figured: "why not".



Before doing any more work, I decided that I was going to have to remove the bulkhead. It was just taking up too much space that could be used for the bed. This involved drilling out 10 or so rivets. I can't say that I recommend doing that without a shirt, hat and safety glasses...oops

For the main insulation, I decided to go with Poly-ISO. This stuff has an R7 per inch efficiency and really isn't that much more expensive than EPS. I've noticed that a lot of people like to use furring strips down the length of the van with insulation in between but I'm planning on having my bed run widthwise and at 5'10", every inch counts. 1 inch Poly-ISO fit flush with the studs and was a breeze to cut on the table saw. Since the van's interior walls are roughly 4' tall and Poly-ISO comes in 4' by 8' sheets, I just made all the cuts down the length of the rigid foam. It fit snug in between the studs but I used foil tape to seal the seams and to make sure it wouldn't move at all. It makes a pretty horrible squeaking noise against the metal. It was getting a little late when I took these pictures...





Next came the time to figure out how to cut the pieces for the walls. Luckily the sides of the van are on the same plane and fairly rectangular but I knew I'd need a template to get around the wheel wells and that other protrusion (I think its for the fuel filter). I bought a roll of heavyweight paintmasking/landscaping paper ($10) and taped it up on the wall. It took two sheets to get the full 4' height.



Then I took a paint stirring stick and drilled a hole in the end that would hold a sharpie, 12" or so from the handle end. I then held the handle end to the floor of the van and traced along the floor, over the wheel well and over the fuel filter protrusion.



I had been somewhat stressing how to do these templates but in total they each took about 20 minutes. After this first one I realized that since the top was so straight, I really only needed to map the bottom profile. I'd then set this at the bottom of the wall material, 4'x8' OSB, and just leave the top as is. The small curve at the top and back of the van I could just do by eye.

I cut the OSB panels out with my jigsaw. I picked up a gallon can of mistake Behr Premium Plus Ultra Paint and Primer for $5 at Depot and gave both sides a thick coat. You won't ever see the OSB surface but I wanted the waterproofing protection that the paint offered.

I'm going to try to install these panels tonight and will post some photos once they are in!


BB67
Posts
721
Joined
12/29/2014
Location
W/central, FL US
7/4/2016 4:50pm Edited Date/Time 7/4/2016 5:33pm
I know you have already done it but its not good to paint both sides. Docks,decks,soffit, outdoor furniture ,pic nic tables, wooden truck bed etc. The wood does not breath and may cause paint peeling (sometimes both sides),mold,mildew or a combo of all of those symptoms.
Not trying to be a dick just letting you know for the future. Also try to keep as everything as light as possible, no 1/2 or 3/8 when 1/4 or 1/8 will do. No backs in the cabinets,light weight drawers and doors. It really adds up quick.
Most people over build and spent to much $ thinking they will have this van/truck forever but it never happens that way.
Keep in mind everything you are adding is for function or looks not structural that is why you could use 1/8 on the sides you are templating to keep it light.Take pics or make a drawing with measurements so you know where to fasten the cabinets,bed etc.
lostboy819
Posts
11493
Joined
8/16/2006
Location
Somewhere, CO US
Fantasy
1568th
7/4/2016 5:47pm
I have built several moto vans and a box van its a lot of work and fun designing it for your personal wants and needs. I am getting ready to redo my 1987 Vandura motovan because it needs a makeover after all these years and I think I will completely re design it so i can use it for other things too. Keep sending the updates and pics.

The Shop

Excaliburbmx
Posts
1872
Joined
6/21/2014
Location
Indianapolis, IN US
7/4/2016 6:21pm




I don't have time to mess with it. If your close to Indiana 2200.00 and it's yours

john.aron
Posts
85
Joined
7/3/2016
Location
Boulder, CO US
7/4/2016 6:49pm
Well I hit the first snag today. I'm having trouble getting the 7/16th OSB to bend to the walls. Options are to either go back to Home Depot and buy 3/8th Plywood or to try furring out the wall, just in the middle, to reduce the need for the bend. Would 3/8th inch Plywood bend significantly better than 7/16 OSB? 1/4" Plywood is an option too but I'm concerned that it will not be in any way structural. I will be wanting to mount ramps and spare wheels on the walls eventually.



Took a break and got the tow hitch mounted so I didn't feel completely defeated...



Cygnus
Posts
14850
Joined
8/15/2006
Location
Hanover, CO US
7/4/2016 6:52pm
john.aron wrote:
Well I hit the first snag today. I'm having trouble getting the 7/16th OSB to bend to the walls. Options are to either go back to...
Well I hit the first snag today. I'm having trouble getting the 7/16th OSB to bend to the walls. Options are to either go back to Home Depot and buy 3/8th Plywood or to try furring out the wall, just in the middle, to reduce the need for the bend. Would 3/8th inch Plywood bend significantly better than 7/16 OSB? 1/4" Plywood is an option too but I'm concerned that it will not be in any way structural. I will be wanting to mount ramps and spare wheels on the walls eventually.



Took a break and got the tow hitch mounted so I didn't feel completely defeated...



You need to get Masonite. Fuck that osb.
john.aron
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85
Joined
7/3/2016
Location
Boulder, CO US
7/4/2016 6:59pm
Also considering cutting relief cuts in the back of the OSB. That might do the trick...
McDuff
Posts
205
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2/11/2012
Location
RI US
7/4/2016 7:24pm
1/4" will work, Run screws through it into the metal studs to anchor what you want to mount on the walls.
CarlinoJoeVideo
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11/30/2013
Location
Portland/Los Angeles, CA US
Fantasy
2298th
7/4/2016 7:27pm
7/16th seems thick. I'd go thinner and lighter.

Here's some photos of my short sprinter build:




IceMan446
Posts
4671
Joined
1/10/2010
Location
Sacramento, CA US
7/4/2016 7:47pm
Keep the updates coming! Good to see you are taking your time and doing it right.

I'm in the market for the same setup. I'll be stealing some of your ideas!
Jack mehoff
Posts
808
Joined
8/28/2012
Location
Westminster, MD US
7/4/2016 8:10pm
Take your wallet and and your self out to Elkhart IND there is a bunch off rv surplus places out there , I have built over 10 trucks and box vans each one getting better , as far as bending that wood don't use osb boards get 1/4 thick real plywood and wet it it will bend enough for the walls for the divider wall between the front and back go with thicker stuff for accident will keep everything back there , get a rv flip couch and build your water tanks underneath it you want the weight center off the truck to stop the thing if you want to put 4 captains chairs and table in you will have to build a cubby to sleep in off the back wall and have the front end off your bike slip under if you can afford it use aluminum Cabnits vs wood the wood will fall apart in a heart beat I will try finding some picks off the inside off my box truck to post
Jack mehoff
Posts
808
Joined
8/28/2012
Location
Westminster, MD US
7/4/2016 8:25pm








I am also getting ready to redo it taking the trip out to Indy to score some rv stuff mainly a flip sofa and I think I am going to take the kitchen table out and put in some captains chairs and a removable table
john.aron
Posts
85
Joined
7/3/2016
Location
Boulder, CO US
7/4/2016 9:39pm
Thanks for all the input. I'm considering all of your suggestions and I'll see if I can make some progress in the morning. The main reason I wanted to use the thicker OSB is so I could hang stuff on the walls without concern. I'm thinking I'll do a little experimenting with some relief cuts tomorrow and see if I can make it work. If that's still a no-go I'll pick up some 1/4" or 3/8" and copy over the templates.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. More updates soon.
Sidecar
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1725
Joined
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Location
GB
7/5/2016 10:48am
john.aron wrote:
Hey Vital Folks, My names John Maguire and I'm a 27 year old former East Coaster currently living and riding in Boulder, CO. I've only been...
Hey Vital Folks,

My names John Maguire and I'm a 27 year old former East Coaster currently living and riding in Boulder, CO. I've only been at this a couple years now but I truly believe this is the best sport on Earth. I came to this game pretty late but I'm doing my best to develop as quickly as possible. I've gotten by the last two years riding out of my F-150, which works well for day trips, but it just doesn't make sense for longer destinations. In addition to 3 days a week at the local tracks, I try to go to CA twice a year and TX once a year. I have a pretty flexible work schedule, and can often work remotely so it ends up being the hotels that break the budget and bring me back home. When my dad offered me the old family Corolla, which could be used as a daily driver, I pulled the trigger on the moto-van.

I've spent the last couple months researching all sorts of different builds and trying to figure out exactly what worked best. I think I have a good plan in the works but thought it would be fun to go about this build in a public forum. I'm looking for feedback and ideas. Hopefully this will be useful to anyone else looking to see what works and what doesn't.

9 to 5 I'm a full time aerospace engineer and I also own a small woodworking company. This means that there is a full wood-shop available when we eventually build out the cabinets. I'm hoping doing this in a public forum will force me to do it right and not cut corners.

Thanks for following along and I look forward to hearing feedback.

I've decided to go with a 2009 Chevy Express 3500 Extended. I picked it up for $13,200 out the door with registration, taxes and all fees. It's got 100k on the clock and was a former Lincare fleet vehicle, used for oxygen transport. It was a little more than I wanted to pay but it's incredible how good of condition its in. Since I plan to drive this thing all over the country, I was OK paying a little more for quality.

Here are a few photos from day 1:







The cargo area was in pretty good shape but there were some bare metal spots that I decided to touch up. I'm not planning to do a vapor barrier so I know water will condense on this outside skin. Luckily there was no rust to deal with.



I also went ahead a bought a small pack of Dynmat to install on the metal to get rid of some of the rattling of the panels. In hindsight this was a waste of money. Don't bother with this...You need a crazy amount to make a significant difference and the other insulation achieves the same effect.




I'm planning on having a living area up front behind the driver and passenger seats so I care the most about this area being well insulated. I went ahead and applied reflectix to the first few panels and the ceiling to maximize thermal insulation in this compartment. There are several vents that Lincare installed to mitigate the problems associated with O2 leakage, but it was easy to insulate around these. There is some rust on the inside around the roof vent but since I'm not going to insulate that area, I haven't gotten around to it yet.



More to come in the next post...
Looking good man, I love a moto van build thread, I'm no further forward with my build but it's got 850-900 miles to do this weekend, central UK to the far side of Belgium on Thursday/Friday and then back again on Monday for the Belgian sidecarcross Grand Prix.


(((what)))
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89
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6/24/2016
Location
Quantico, VA US
7/5/2016 12:12pm
john.aron wrote:
Hey Vital Folks, My names John Maguire and I'm a 27 year old former East Coaster currently living and riding in Boulder, CO. I've only been...
Hey Vital Folks,

My names John Maguire and I'm a 27 year old former East Coaster currently living and riding in Boulder, CO. I've only been at this a couple years now but I truly believe this is the best sport on Earth. I came to this game pretty late but I'm doing my best to develop as quickly as possible. I've gotten by the last two years riding out of my F-150, which works well for day trips, but it just doesn't make sense for longer destinations. In addition to 3 days a week at the local tracks, I try to go to CA twice a year and TX once a year. I have a pretty flexible work schedule, and can often work remotely so it ends up being the hotels that break the budget and bring me back home. When my dad offered me the old family Corolla, which could be used as a daily driver, I pulled the trigger on the moto-van.

I've spent the last couple months researching all sorts of different builds and trying to figure out exactly what worked best. I think I have a good plan in the works but thought it would be fun to go about this build in a public forum. I'm looking for feedback and ideas. Hopefully this will be useful to anyone else looking to see what works and what doesn't.

9 to 5 I'm a full time aerospace engineer and I also own a small woodworking company. This means that there is a full wood-shop available when we eventually build out the cabinets. I'm hoping doing this in a public forum will force me to do it right and not cut corners.

Thanks for following along and I look forward to hearing feedback.

I've decided to go with a 2009 Chevy Express 3500 Extended. I picked it up for $13,200 out the door with registration, taxes and all fees. It's got 100k on the clock and was a former Lincare fleet vehicle, used for oxygen transport. It was a little more than I wanted to pay but it's incredible how good of condition its in. Since I plan to drive this thing all over the country, I was OK paying a little more for quality.

Here are a few photos from day 1:







The cargo area was in pretty good shape but there were some bare metal spots that I decided to touch up. I'm not planning to do a vapor barrier so I know water will condense on this outside skin. Luckily there was no rust to deal with.



I also went ahead a bought a small pack of Dynmat to install on the metal to get rid of some of the rattling of the panels. In hindsight this was a waste of money. Don't bother with this...You need a crazy amount to make a significant difference and the other insulation achieves the same effect.




I'm planning on having a living area up front behind the driver and passenger seats so I care the most about this area being well insulated. I went ahead and applied reflectix to the first few panels and the ceiling to maximize thermal insulation in this compartment. There are several vents that Lincare installed to mitigate the problems associated with O2 leakage, but it was easy to insulate around these. There is some rust on the inside around the roof vent but since I'm not going to insulate that area, I haven't gotten around to it yet.



More to come in the next post...
I'm nowhere near you, but if that thing runs/drives I'll come get it.
Lasse
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529
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Location
DK
Fantasy
2940th
7/5/2016 1:25pm Edited Date/Time 7/5/2016 1:26pm


This is my new motovan project.
john.aron
Posts
85
Joined
7/3/2016
Location
Boulder, CO US
7/5/2016 8:20pm
Decided to scrap the OSB this morning. Got 3 new sheets of 1/4" plywood and redid the walls. Also found another $5.00 mistake can of paint, this time in gray. This better be the last wall attempt though because all they have left is pastel green. Followed BB67's advice for only painting one side (placed on the outside). I'm not sure I'm fully convinced but it was nice to have one less side to paint this morning. After work I managed to get them all hung.

I'm feeling OK about using the 1/4 plywood but I think I'm going to screw/glue some more material in 12" strips down the length of the back compartment where handlebars rub and where I intend to hang things. This will toughen the material against abrasion and distribute the load of anything I hang on the walls.



Next is finishing the subfloor. The fleet dealer I bought it from installed new carpet mat and OSB on 80% of the floor, up to about half the area I've dedicated to the bed. That last 20% was covered in aluminum diamond plate. I took out the diamond plate and cleaned and painted the van floor underneath where it was. It had been riveted in place so there are not several holes through which you can see the pavement beneath. Any good ideas on how to fill these? I'm thinking about maybe just sealing it with some butyl rubber tape. I'm thinking I'll reuse this diamond plate on the back side base of the dividing wall down the road.



The next step will be to add 1/4" plywood to the ceiling. Probably won't get much done tomorrow but later on in the week I'm hoping to be productive.

Thanks again for all the feedback!

Jack mehoff
Posts
808
Joined
8/28/2012
Location
Westminster, MD US
7/5/2016 9:09pm
Get some sheet metal rRTV silicon and self tapping pan head screws seam the rtv around the down side screw it in and undercoat the bottom and you should be fine . You might want to find a worth mfg warehouse in the area to get some smooth FRP to put on the walls of you want it to have that shinny rv wall look if you seal it up real good also you can just spray out the back when it gets dirty
delonick347
Posts
314
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12/22/2011
Location
Omaha, NE US
7/5/2016 9:56pm
john.aron wrote:
Hey Vital Folks, My names John Maguire and I'm a 27 year old former East Coaster currently living and riding in Boulder, CO. I've only been...
Hey Vital Folks,

My names John Maguire and I'm a 27 year old former East Coaster currently living and riding in Boulder, CO. I've only been at this a couple years now but I truly believe this is the best sport on Earth. I came to this game pretty late but I'm doing my best to develop as quickly as possible. I've gotten by the last two years riding out of my F-150, which works well for day trips, but it just doesn't make sense for longer destinations. In addition to 3 days a week at the local tracks, I try to go to CA twice a year and TX once a year. I have a pretty flexible work schedule, and can often work remotely so it ends up being the hotels that break the budget and bring me back home. When my dad offered me the old family Corolla, which could be used as a daily driver, I pulled the trigger on the moto-van.

I've spent the last couple months researching all sorts of different builds and trying to figure out exactly what worked best. I think I have a good plan in the works but thought it would be fun to go about this build in a public forum. I'm looking for feedback and ideas. Hopefully this will be useful to anyone else looking to see what works and what doesn't.

9 to 5 I'm a full time aerospace engineer and I also own a small woodworking company. This means that there is a full wood-shop available when we eventually build out the cabinets. I'm hoping doing this in a public forum will force me to do it right and not cut corners.

Thanks for following along and I look forward to hearing feedback.

I've decided to go with a 2009 Chevy Express 3500 Extended. I picked it up for $13,200 out the door with registration, taxes and all fees. It's got 100k on the clock and was a former Lincare fleet vehicle, used for oxygen transport. It was a little more than I wanted to pay but it's incredible how good of condition its in. Since I plan to drive this thing all over the country, I was OK paying a little more for quality.

Here are a few photos from day 1:







The cargo area was in pretty good shape but there were some bare metal spots that I decided to touch up. I'm not planning to do a vapor barrier so I know water will condense on this outside skin. Luckily there was no rust to deal with.



I also went ahead a bought a small pack of Dynmat to install on the metal to get rid of some of the rattling of the panels. In hindsight this was a waste of money. Don't bother with this...You need a crazy amount to make a significant difference and the other insulation achieves the same effect.




I'm planning on having a living area up front behind the driver and passenger seats so I care the most about this area being well insulated. I went ahead and applied reflectix to the first few panels and the ceiling to maximize thermal insulation in this compartment. There are several vents that Lincare installed to mitigate the problems associated with O2 leakage, but it was easy to insulate around these. There is some rust on the inside around the roof vent but since I'm not going to insulate that area, I haven't gotten around to it yet.



More to come in the next post...
I had the same holes in my floor. I epoxy'd nickels to the floor to plug the holes Wink
Boarddesign
Posts
1106
Joined
12/13/2010
Location
Fallbrook, CA US
Fantasy
1860th
7/5/2016 10:09pm
I just built a extended chevy 2500, was lucky enough to find a clean used one with the power package. Here's some of the work I did.

Made my templates with masonite strips some hand shears and a hot glue gun.

Built a wall and screwed it to the back side of the upright roof support, sealed it all with spray foam and metal tape.


painted it with some old truck bed liner stuff I had in the garage.. kind of crappy but it will do.




Built a cabinet base for the bed.







I did insulate everything really well but can't find pics


lostboy819
Posts
11493
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8/16/2006
Location
Somewhere, CO US
Fantasy
1568th
7/5/2016 10:16pm
Awesome stuff guys !! keep posting van build pics. CoolCool
7/6/2016 4:35am
I plugged the holes in my can with rustproofing plugs. I put some grease on them to keep the bare metal around the holes from rusting.
Mouse153
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548
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2/16/2013
Location
Virginia Beach, VA US
7/6/2016 5:24am
This thread is great!
CarlinoJoeVideo
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Portland/Los Angeles, CA US
Fantasy
2298th
7/6/2016 5:56am
I used some silicon chaulk I had laying around to fill the floor holes in my van. Any of those ideas above will work as well.

Great work, have you considered any lighting to be installed before you do the ceiling? It definitely comes in hang for loading and unloading at night. Also a roof vent with fan is a great upgrade that's very inexpensive.



john.aron
Posts
85
Joined
7/3/2016
Location
Boulder, CO US
7/6/2016 7:11am
I had the same holes in my floor. I epoxy'd nickels to the floor to plug the holes Wink
Woah, bro. I'm not made of money...
john.aron
Posts
85
Joined
7/3/2016
Location
Boulder, CO US
7/6/2016 7:17am
CarlinoJoeVideo - I have considered lighting, but I'm leaning more towards LED strip along the walls rather than a dome light. I'm also thinking about doing the ceiling out of beetle kill planks, not unlike the ceiling you have in that sprinter.

delonick347
Posts
314
Joined
12/22/2011
Location
Omaha, NE US
7/6/2016 8:16am
john.aron wrote:
Hey Vital Folks, My names John Maguire and I'm a 27 year old former East Coaster currently living and riding in Boulder, CO. I've only been...
Hey Vital Folks,

My names John Maguire and I'm a 27 year old former East Coaster currently living and riding in Boulder, CO. I've only been at this a couple years now but I truly believe this is the best sport on Earth. I came to this game pretty late but I'm doing my best to develop as quickly as possible. I've gotten by the last two years riding out of my F-150, which works well for day trips, but it just doesn't make sense for longer destinations. In addition to 3 days a week at the local tracks, I try to go to CA twice a year and TX once a year. I have a pretty flexible work schedule, and can often work remotely so it ends up being the hotels that break the budget and bring me back home. When my dad offered me the old family Corolla, which could be used as a daily driver, I pulled the trigger on the moto-van.

I've spent the last couple months researching all sorts of different builds and trying to figure out exactly what worked best. I think I have a good plan in the works but thought it would be fun to go about this build in a public forum. I'm looking for feedback and ideas. Hopefully this will be useful to anyone else looking to see what works and what doesn't.

9 to 5 I'm a full time aerospace engineer and I also own a small woodworking company. This means that there is a full wood-shop available when we eventually build out the cabinets. I'm hoping doing this in a public forum will force me to do it right and not cut corners.

Thanks for following along and I look forward to hearing feedback.

I've decided to go with a 2009 Chevy Express 3500 Extended. I picked it up for $13,200 out the door with registration, taxes and all fees. It's got 100k on the clock and was a former Lincare fleet vehicle, used for oxygen transport. It was a little more than I wanted to pay but it's incredible how good of condition its in. Since I plan to drive this thing all over the country, I was OK paying a little more for quality.

Here are a few photos from day 1:







The cargo area was in pretty good shape but there were some bare metal spots that I decided to touch up. I'm not planning to do a vapor barrier so I know water will condense on this outside skin. Luckily there was no rust to deal with.



I also went ahead a bought a small pack of Dynmat to install on the metal to get rid of some of the rattling of the panels. In hindsight this was a waste of money. Don't bother with this...You need a crazy amount to make a significant difference and the other insulation achieves the same effect.




I'm planning on having a living area up front behind the driver and passenger seats so I care the most about this area being well insulated. I went ahead and applied reflectix to the first few panels and the ceiling to maximize thermal insulation in this compartment. There are several vents that Lincare installed to mitigate the problems associated with O2 leakage, but it was easy to insulate around these. There is some rust on the inside around the roof vent but since I'm not going to insulate that area, I haven't gotten around to it yet.



More to come in the next post...


Ran led strips in the support channels in the ceiling. Supernight LED on Amazon. 16 ft, with remote and control box for like 25 bucks.
Here is a photic from a long time ago I took right after I built my bed.


john.aron
Posts
85
Joined
7/3/2016
Location
Boulder, CO US
7/6/2016 9:36am
Spent a little while this morning scheming. I'm having some thoughts regarding the layout and I'm not entirely sure I want to stick with my original plan of having a dividing wall. The primary motivation was to avoid gas fumes and to have a spot to mount the bikes against, but with fuel injected bikes and a decent gas can, I'm not sure the odors are really going to be that bad. Getting rid of the wall would open up the space, make running water lines from the tank up front to the pressure washer in the back easier, and buy a couple more inches on the length. It would also allow me to carry a surfboard inside the van if I was so inclined. For mounting I might instead go with the Lock-N-Load.

I'm going to finish the subfloor and the ceiling and see what usable space is left before making a final decision. Feel free to let me know your experiences with sleeping next to the bikes. Anything I'm missing?

Also does anyone have a recommendation for a powered roof vent fan? Cheap and Quiet?

john.aron
Posts
85
Joined
7/3/2016
Location
Boulder, CO US
7/6/2016 9:38am
Boarddesign - I love the subwoofer cutout mounted into the bed. I'll absolutely be stealing that idea!

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