2015 Rmz450 best oil type?

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4/20/2020 11:45 PM

Just bought the bike and guys been running gn4 10w40 Honda oil in it it’s easy to find and cheap but the recommendation for oil is Motul 300V. Could I continue to run this or should I upgrade it any advice is appreciated new to this bike and forum here

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4/20/2020 11:46 PM

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4/21/2020 12:28 AM

Do you like blondes, redheads or brunettes? No right answer. That is like oil. Run and date what makes you happy.

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4/21/2020 1:04 AM

Your the man! Thank you for the wisdom and advice

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4/21/2020 4:41 AM

I used to run the full syn valvoline from walmart with no problem. Tried to run it in my KTM and would cause me to miss shifts - had to switch to bel-ray

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4/21/2020 4:45 AM

use conventional oil and change it often. Every 5 hours and oil filter every 10.

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4/21/2020 6:20 AM

RotellaT

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4/21/2020 6:28 AM

Bertolli is great. It's super cheap and you can just grab a quart while you're food shopping.

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Two wheels, tacos, and tubes

4/21/2020 6:34 AM

In before this turns into a multi-page cluster fuck.

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4/21/2020 7:19 AM

Rocket88 wrote:

In before this turns into a multi-page cluster fuck.

Will never understand this question, why you wouldn't just run the oil the manufacturers says to use or at the very least the advised weight, I'll never know.

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4/21/2020 8:17 AM

Rocket88 wrote:

In before this turns into a multi-page cluster fuck.

GaryC1 wrote:

Will never understand this question, why you wouldn't just run the oil the manufacturers says to use or at the very least the advised weight, I'll never know.

There’s always this guy...

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4/21/2020 8:27 AM

Run a good, conventional oil from a trusted brand which is intended for wet clutch use and you'll be fine. Change it often. Don't run an automobile oil or anything which has the "fuel conserving" label on it as those may cause your clutch to slip.
If you want to gain a small performance increase, run a full synthetic, "race" oil with a thinner viscosity, but change it even more often. I think Yamalube has a 0W-30 Racing oil which is pretty good. Motul, Bel-Ray, Motorex and probably Castrol all have true full-synthetic oils which have the properties I'm talking about. You can tell, because they cost $20 or more per quart. For the most part, any oil which is called "full synthetic" but only costs $10-$12 is probably called such thanks to barely legal marketing hyperbole. It is still made from dead dinosaurs and not really man-made synthetic molecules.

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Braaapin' aint easy.

4/21/2020 8:37 AM

Best advice for the RMZ450, run 20w-50. Little thicker and helps keep from miss-shifting. We use Maxima Premium 4.

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2017 RMZ450
2005 YZ250-sold :,(
1998 YZ250
2005 KX250F

80% of the time it works every time
IG @hammerfamily_4 & @2HRacing
Thanks to : Factory Effex, N2Dirt, Acerbis, DT1, Fasthouse, Matix, FMF, ASV, 100% & Mika Metals

4/21/2020 6:26 PM

Why would you run conventional? Run a 10 40 synthetic made for off road motorcycles. Motul is great, so is belray, maxima, vp, Amsoil, the list goes on, pick one stick with it, get a stainless oil filter and keep the oil changed and filters clean Make Sure you you drain the oil from ALL HOLES. I personally run Suzuki’s ecstar oil, and change it probably to often but it makes me feel good

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4/21/2020 6:28 PM

Falcon wrote:

Run a good, conventional oil from a trusted brand which is intended for wet clutch use and you'll be fine. Change it often. Don't run an automobile oil or anything which has the "fuel conserving" label on it as those may cause your clutch to slip.
If you want to gain a small performance increase, run a full synthetic, "race" oil with a thinner viscosity, but change it even more often. I think Yamalube has a 0W-30 Racing oil which is pretty good. Motul, Bel-Ray, Motorex and probably Castrol all have true full-synthetic oils which have the properties I'm talking about. You can tell, because they cost $20 or more per quart. For the most part, any oil which is called "full synthetic" but only costs $10-$12 is probably called such thanks to barely legal marketing hyperbole. It is still made from dead dinosaurs and not really man-made synthetic molecules.

Basing the cost of the oil on its performance isn’t necessarily true

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4/22/2020 5:34 AM

One would think this would be stating the obvious, but since people are recommending other OEM's oil, why not run Ecstar 9000, the full synthetic oil that Suzuki recommends? Or their new MX9000 that JGR developed?

For break-in purposes they are filled with non-synthetic from the factory, but switching to their full synthetic has eliminated any hard or notchy shifting for me and my friends on the RMZ450.

Suzuki is doing 15% off the entire oil/accessory catalog, with free shipping on orders over $50.
https://store.suzukicycles.com/?fbclid=IwAR3oYsdLcFt0VZvyynb023fbQno1HPYV70DywFezzmPvGHeRxv4gKNCmyHE

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4/22/2020 7:00 AM

Rotella T4. Oil change at 6 hours per what the manual says. Life is good.

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4/22/2020 7:03 AM

Rotella T4. 80 hours on kx450 and no issues. It’s convenient that most auto parts stores carry it

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4/22/2020 9:32 AM

bryan(rmz450) wrote:

Just bought the bike and guys been running gn4 10w40 Honda oil in it it’s easy to find and cheap but the recommendation for oil is Motul 300V. Could I continue to run this or should I upgrade it any advice is appreciated new to this bike and forum here

To answer your question, you can keep running the Honda GN4 10w-40. It is a quality motorcycle oil. Change it often and follow the oil change procedure in your manual, which someone else pointed out in this thread and was good advice, and you'll be good to go.

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4/22/2020 9:45 AM

At the end of the day quantity and cleanliness of oil matters more than the sticker on the bottle.

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4/22/2020 10:03 AM

bryan(rmz450) wrote:

Just bought the bike and guys been running gn4 10w40 Honda oil in it it’s easy to find and cheap but the recommendation for oil is Motul 300V. Could I continue to run this or should I upgrade it any advice is appreciated new to this bike and forum here

oils oil

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4/22/2020 10:09 AM

Luke_Richards wrote:

Why would you run conventional? Run a 10 40 synthetic made for off road motorcycles. Motul is great, so is belray, maxima, vp, Amsoil, the list goes on, pick one stick with it, get a stainless oil filter and keep the oil changed and filters clean Make Sure you you drain the oil from ALL HOLES. I personally run Suzuki’s ecstar oil, and change it probably to often but it makes me feel good

called pro circuit shop years ago they use maxima premium 4 conv on all race bikes they said, aint a motherfucker on the planet thats ever been able to spot a failed oil type

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4/22/2020 6:01 PM

Another troll post starting Vitals weekly oil argument.

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The older I get, the faster I was.

4/22/2020 6:27 PM

Falcon wrote:

Run a good, conventional oil from a trusted brand which is intended for wet clutch use and you'll be fine. Change it often. Don't run an automobile oil or anything which has the "fuel conserving" label on it as those may cause your clutch to slip.
If you want to gain a small performance increase, run a full synthetic, "race" oil with a thinner viscosity, but change it even more often. I think Yamalube has a 0W-30 Racing oil which is pretty good. Motul, Bel-Ray, Motorex and probably Castrol all have true full-synthetic oils which have the properties I'm talking about. You can tell, because they cost $20 or more per quart. For the most part, any oil which is called "full synthetic" but only costs $10-$12 is probably called such thanks to barely legal marketing hyperbole. It is still made from dead dinosaurs and not really man-made synthetic molecules.

Luke_Richards wrote:

Basing the cost of the oil on its performance isn’t necessarily true

Correct, but no PAO or Ester-based "true" synthetic has been in the $10-$12 range for a long while now. If you can prove me wrong, you just helped me find my new oil.

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Braaapin' aint easy.

4/22/2020 7:09 PM

Buy moto brands and support the industry bro wink I buy Maxima Synblend for my 18 Rmz 450 and Maxima Castor927 for my 2 stroke. Sometimes I get the full synthetic maxima stuff but I switch it up back and fourth between Synblend and the ProPlus+

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4/22/2020 7:32 PM

Mobil-1 4T 10-40 is what I ran/run in my 12 rmz450 and 15 rmz 250 for years with no problem and many other bikes. Easy to get and reasonably priced. Change it often and keep the air filter clean and it will run forever. The only oil I've had trouble with is rotella. Fried a fairly new clutch on a 17 yz250. Only time that has happened to me in 20 years.

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4/22/2020 7:36 PM

Delo or Rotella!

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Go Hawks!

4/22/2020 7:49 PM

Falcon wrote:

Run a good, conventional oil from a trusted brand which is intended for wet clutch use and you'll be fine. Change it often. Don't run an automobile oil or anything which has the "fuel conserving" label on it as those may cause your clutch to slip.
If you want to gain a small performance increase, run a full synthetic, "race" oil with a thinner viscosity, but change it even more often. I think Yamalube has a 0W-30 Racing oil which is pretty good. Motul, Bel-Ray, Motorex and probably Castrol all have true full-synthetic oils which have the properties I'm talking about. You can tell, because they cost $20 or more per quart. For the most part, any oil which is called "full synthetic" but only costs $10-$12 is probably called such thanks to barely legal marketing hyperbole. It is still made from dead dinosaurs and not really man-made synthetic molecules.

Luke_Richards wrote:

Basing the cost of the oil on its performance isn’t necessarily true

Falcon wrote:

Correct, but no PAO or Ester-based "true" synthetic has been in the $10-$12 range for a long while now. If you can prove me wrong, you just helped me find my new oil.

So how much better is ester based oil? If I’m changing my oil every 3 hours with Suzuki’s oil which is about $13 a qt, is spending $21 for motul or any other eater based that much better? Genuinely curious not being a dick lol.

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4/22/2020 8:37 PM

Photo
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4/23/2020 9:21 PM

Luke_Richards wrote:

Basing the cost of the oil on its performance isn’t necessarily true

Falcon wrote:

Correct, but no PAO or Ester-based "true" synthetic has been in the $10-$12 range for a long while now. If you can prove me wrong, you just helped me find my new oil.

Luke_Richards wrote:

So how much better is ester based oil? If I’m changing my oil every 3 hours with Suzuki’s oil which is about $13 a qt, is spending $21 for motul or any other eater based that much better? Genuinely curious not being a dick lol.

You need a chlorinated paraffin like Duralube to really jump next level, then dump some slick 50 and STP on top of that.

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