2017 KTM 450 Questions.

Tps will fix the decel pop 90% of the time. Unlikely you have an exhaust leak on a new bike.

Adjusting the TPS is by far the best thing do on your list. I’ve got 40 some hours on mine. All I have done is basic maintenance. The bike makes plenty of power, wouldn’t waste the money on a filter screen. I run mine in map 1 all the time....it makes plenty of HP.

Love my 17 450 SXF. I have 22 hours on it and haven't changed a thing besides Renthal chain and sprockets, moved to a 14/52 gearing.

I'm actuall goin gto test the quick throttle cam that cam with it in the tool bag, according to Keefer and others it will assist with getting to the meat of the power a bit easier as the stock throttle cam makes for a very loooong pull.

Shock: Set Sag to 105mm.

Fork: I weigh about 170 pounds (out of shape A level/fast B...) and find that 150 PSI is usually a good setting. However try using a zip tie on one of the fork legs and spinning a few laps, adjusting the pressure until you barely get it to bottom, this usually provides you with a good indicator on which air pressure to run.

Hope that helps.

Factory Connection AER48 Performance Kit with Updated 18 parts

Vortex Ignition with Twisted Development Maps

Exhaust

Done.

Kb228, bobpa, adampf, csar Fe, awesome boys, thanks for the info!

CSAR FE wrote:

Factory Connection AER48 Performance Kit with Updated 18 parts

Vortex Ignition with Twisted Development Maps

Exhaust

Done.

Did you do the FC revalve? I m pretty happy with it stock

adamdf wrote:

Love my 17 450 SXF. I have 22 hours on it and haven't changed a thing besides Renthal chain and sprockets, moved to a 14/52 gearing.

I'm actuall goin gto test the quick throttle cam that cam with it in the tool bag, according to Keefer and others it will assist with getting to the meat of the power a bit easier as the stock throttle cam makes for a very loooong pull.

Shock: Set Sag to 105mm.

Fork: I weigh about 170 pounds (out of shape A level/fast B...) and find that 150 PSI is usually a good setting. However try using a zip tie on one of the fork legs and spinning a few laps, adjusting the pressure until you barely get it to bottom, this usually provides you with a good indicator on which air pressure to run.

Hope that helps.

I am 180 and probably about the same speed. I run 145PSI and rarely, if ever, bottom. I do not remember where my clickers are at. I also run 105mm of sag.

The bike should come with in-line fuel filters. I swapped mine at 25 hours per the manual...and it was spotless.

adamdf wrote:

Love my 17 450 SXF. I have 22 hours on it and haven't changed a thing besides Renthal chain and sprockets, moved to a 14/52 gearing.

I'm actuall goin gto test the quick throttle cam that cam with it in the tool bag, according to Keefer and others it will assist with getting to the meat of the power a bit easier as the stock throttle cam makes for a very loooong pull.

Shock: Set Sag to 105mm.

Fork: I weigh about 170 pounds (out of shape A level/fast B...) and find that 150 PSI is usually a good setting. However try using a zip tie on one of the fork legs and spinning a few laps, adjusting the pressure until you barely get it to bottom, this usually provides you with a good indicator on which air pressure to run.

Hope that helps.

BobPA wrote:

I am 180 and probably about the same speed. I run 145PSI and rarely, if ever, bottom. I do not remember where my clickers are at. I also run 105mm of sag.

The bike should come with in-line fuel filters. I swapped mine at 25 hours per the manual...and it was spotless.

I have a 17 250sx as well and been playing with this fork for a while. I started at 154 and keep easing back, this fork can be very plush with lower PSI. I'm at 150 now, 170lb w/o gear, Vet A.

adamdf wrote:

Love my 17 450 SXF. I have 22 hours on it and haven't changed a thing besides Renthal chain and sprockets, moved to a 14/52 gearing.

I'm actuall goin gto test the quick throttle cam that cam with it in the tool bag, according to Keefer and others it will assist with getting to the meat of the power a bit easier as the stock throttle cam makes for a very loooong pull.

Shock: Set Sag to 105mm.

Fork: I weigh about 170 pounds (out of shape A level/fast B...) and find that 150 PSI is usually a good setting. However try using a zip tie on one of the fork legs and spinning a few laps, adjusting the pressure until you barely get it to bottom, this usually provides you with a good indicator on which air pressure to run.

Hope that helps.

BobPA wrote:

I am 180 and probably about the same speed. I run 145PSI and rarely, if ever, bottom. I do not remember where my clickers are at. I also run 105mm of sag.

The bike should come with in-line fuel filters. I swapped mine at 25 hours per the manual...and it was spotless.

Markee wrote:

I have a 17 250sx as well and been playing with this fork for a while. I started at 154 and keep easing back, this fork can be very plush with lower PSI. I'm at 150 now, 170lb w/o gear, Vet A.

Don’t go too low. Lower than 140 an it may be plusher initially but harsh overall.

You definitely need a GET ECU for it! Makes more power everywhere but is smoother and easier to ride. .and I just happen to have one for sale!

Justin345 wrote:

You definitely need a GET ECU for it! Makes more power everywhere but is smoother and easier to ride. .and I just happen to have one for sale!

I'm listening.

I'm guessing a new ECU eliminates the bar controls?

Justin345 wrote:

You definitely need a GET ECU for it! Makes more power everywhere but is smoother and easier to ride. .and I just happen to have one for sale!

Markee wrote:

I'm listening.

I'm guessing a new ECU eliminates the bar controls?

Correct. GET sells map switches, GPA (Ground Power Assist) which is the LED indicator on the front fender. With the GPA and mode switch, you can alter the level of “traction control” (I’ll use that term loosely). It controls how hard it hits and you can easily change it with the mode switch on the handlebars. Nice to change it based on conditions...you want more when it’s deep loam or sand, and smoother less of a hit when it’s hard packed. I only have the ECU itself for sale.

Justin345 wrote:

You definitely need a GET ECU for it! Makes more power everywhere but is smoother and easier to ride. .and I just happen to have one for sale!

Markee wrote:

I'm listening.

I'm guessing a new ECU eliminates the bar controls?

On my 19, Twisted gave me maps and I keep the Oem map switch, you get 3 options on the bar, 10 under the seat!

A stronger battery like WPS Featherlight helps starting if you are having problem.

Justin345 wrote:

You definitely need a GET ECU for it! Makes more power everywhere but is smoother and easier to ride. .and I just happen to have one for sale!

Markee wrote:

I'm listening.

I'm guessing a new ECU eliminates the bar controls?

CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:

On my 19, Twisted gave me maps and I keep the Oem map switch, you get 3 options on the bar, 10 under the seat!

A stronger battery like WPS Featherlight helps starting if you are having problem.

I agree, WPS Battery is the way to go. Great bike I was sad to see mine go, but it went to a good friend who will take care of it. I had 30 hrs on it and never had a issue besides the Battery. Keep an eye on the spokes by the Rim Lock. Good luck