2016-2018 KTM 350 TPS setting

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10/12/2017 7:18 PM

What is the best voltage setting to help with the flameouts on the Husky/KTM 350 2016 and later?

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10/12/2017 7:21 PM
Edited Date/Time: 10/12/2017 7:22 PM

Try posting in tech help section. Paw paw and some of the other guy will answer you in no time

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2017 RMZ450
2005 YZ250-sold :,(
1998 YZ250
2005 KX250F

80% of the time it works every time
IG @hamdaddyof2 & @2HRacing
Thanks to : Factory Effex, N2Dirt, Acerbis, DT1, Fasthouse, Matix, FMF, ASV, 100% & Mika Metals

10/12/2017 8:46 PM

I would try turning the idle up a bit first since that will increase the tps setting if it's similar to the 450.

I got this info from Tokyo mods

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10/13/2017 12:17 AM

With 450 went from 0.52 to 0.58. Haven't touch 350f yet but could benefit with similar setting.

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10/13/2017 6:12 PM

Bruce372 wrote:

I would try turning the idle up a bit first since that will increase the tps setting if it's similar to the 450.

I got this info from Tokyo mods

Yes

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2019 KTM 350 XCF
Single Track Warrior



2/12/2019 3:30 PM

What are you guys setting the TPS to? Or are you going in increments until you’re happy? Mine is stock at .49. Don’t notice any issues on the track. But in the parking lot, idle to full throttle fast in first and she falls on her face so fast that it won’t move. It even stalls sometimes. Second gear, forget it. This can’t be optimal. My fuel system is clean and I always keep a clean filter in it.

Thanks

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2/12/2019 3:30 PM

Bike is a 17 350sxf

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2/12/2019 4:09 PM

Solidkm wrote:

What are you guys setting the TPS to? Or are you going in increments until you’re happy? Mine is stock at .49. Don’t notice any issues on the track. But in the parking lot, idle to full throttle fast in first and she falls on her face so fast that it won’t move. It even stalls sometimes. Second gear, forget it. This can’t be optimal. My fuel system is clean and I always keep a clean filter in it.

Thanks

I swear every consumer judges a bike by this metric and it's THE STUPIDEST TEST EVER.

You are NEVER on the track at a dead idle and go WIDE open as hard as you can. The engine is NEVER at 2200 rpm while riding.

The engine in general makes peak torque around 8500 and revs to 13500. To achieve this is has BIG cams and HUGE ports.
Compared to a Nascar engine - which is TOTALLY not streetable for daily use - the 350 has BIGGER PORTS per it's size and a far larger cam per it's size

If we were to look at these cars - the solution to get "runnability" is to turn the idle speed up to where it doesn't die easily. They are RACE cars and NEVER idle out on the race track.

On a dirtbike - we generally hav the idle SOOO FAR low for what it is - because we like the way it sounds - and tips in to throttle increment for rideability.

So - if your bike bogs ON THE TRACK in real use - THEN ADDRESS that issue. But whacking it WIDE OPEN from dead zero - and the air speed is at zero to begin with - and can't pick up quickly enough. You could choose to alter the design - loose big power - and make it do this with ease - but why bother????

The TPS "fudgement" is the same as enriching the map. It tricks the ECU to thinking its at a higher up portion of the map and thus the ecu supplies more fuel and differed timing. Personally - if you feel it's an enrichement issue - remap.

Secondly - up the idle a tad - all the way until you feel like it pulls you around in tight corners then back it down.

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2/12/2019 4:14 PM

Solidkm wrote:

What are you guys setting the TPS to? Or are you going in increments until you’re happy? Mine is stock at .49. Don’t notice any issues on the track. But in the parking lot, idle to full throttle fast in first and she falls on her face so fast that it won’t move. It even stalls sometimes. Second gear, forget it. This can’t be optimal. My fuel system is clean and I always keep a clean filter in it.

Thanks

Derek Harris wrote:

I swear every consumer judges a bike by this metric and it's THE STUPIDEST TEST EVER.

You are NEVER on the track at a dead idle and go WIDE open as hard as you can. The engine is NEVER at 2200 rpm while riding.

The engine in general makes peak torque around 8500 and revs to 13500. To achieve this is has BIG cams and HUGE ports.
Compared to a Nascar engine - which is TOTALLY not streetable for daily use - the 350 has BIGGER PORTS per it's size and a far larger cam per it's size

If we were to look at these cars - the solution to get "runnability" is to turn the idle speed up to where it doesn't die easily. They are RACE cars and NEVER idle out on the race track.

On a dirtbike - we generally hav the idle SOOO FAR low for what it is - because we like the way it sounds - and tips in to throttle increment for rideability.

So - if your bike bogs ON THE TRACK in real use - THEN ADDRESS that issue. But whacking it WIDE OPEN from dead zero - and the air speed is at zero to begin with - and can't pick up quickly enough. You could choose to alter the design - loose big power - and make it do this with ease - but why bother????

The TPS "fudgement" is the same as enriching the map. It tricks the ECU to thinking its at a higher up portion of the map and thus the ecu supplies more fuel and differed timing. Personally - if you feel it's an enrichement issue - remap.

Secondly - up the idle a tad - all the way until you feel like it pulls you around in tight corners then back it down.

Thanks for your insight and taking the time. I agree with you that this idle to full throttle condition doesn’t really take effect on the track. Possibly apples to oranges, but I crashed real bad years ago on carb’d bike that bogged on me, and I got gun shy on this bike. That said, I haven’t experienced a bog while burning laps

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2/12/2019 4:19 PM

Solidkm wrote:

Thanks for your insight and taking the time. I agree with you that this idle to full throttle condition doesn’t really take effect on the track. Possibly apples to oranges, but I crashed real bad years ago on carb’d bike that bogged on me, and I got gun shy on this bike. That said, I haven’t experienced a bog while burning laps

understandable.

I always liked to try to ride "around" issues - aka if a bike didn't like something I made sure not to do it.
As bikes have gotten better people seem to forget about this concept and often intentionally ride where a bike isn't happy because they are frustrated by it doing it and want others to see it would be my guess.

Out on track to see if you can make it bog - find an uphill, lug it really low then whack it in too tall a gear. Then slowly change those conditions and learn exactly what will make it bog and what wont...
If it's something you never will do while actually riding - dont worry about it.

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2/13/2019 5:13 PM

Try .62 milli volts. Will run noticeably cooler than at .49 Milli volts.

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2/14/2019 9:12 AM

endurox wrote:

Try .62 milli volts. Will run noticeably cooler than at .49 Milli volts.

Yep anywhere between .60 and .64 seems to be the sweet spot. I settled on .64 and she rips.

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2/14/2019 10:50 AM

endurox wrote:

Try .62 milli volts. Will run noticeably cooler than at .49 Milli volts.

blaze 57 wrote:

Yep anywhere between .60 and .64 seems to be the sweet spot. I settled on .64 and she rips.

You noticed a difference while riding?
Did you any complaints before touching it?

I assume the same goes for my 17, 250?

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