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4/23/2009
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Tacoma, WA
US
Sipes #412
7/15/2016 8:57am
7/15/2016 8:57am
I'm looking into getting a 2013 250sx. I just want to know if they are good solid bikes like my yz's have been in the past. I've read up on them a little and some people say they are hard to shift sometimes under a load. I just want to know the good and bad. I loved my yz's but I kinda want to switch it up a little bit.
Once I installed the Ohlins cartridge's in the forks the suspension was good.
No issues with shifting, the bike was very fast.
I did have some issues with the tranny about a year ago(hard to shift under load and would hit false neutral), but that was mostly because I was over due for a bottom end rebuild. I replaced and filed the shifting mechanism and spring(not expensive) and also cleaned up the shifting forks during the rebuild. After that all those issues were solved. It was like new after that. I would also suspect you would have that issue on any bike that has been ridden hard for a period of time.
The suspension on that bike is good. I had mine re valved by Factory Connection and it was awesome! I can't think of any complaints or I'd let you know.
I did have a gearbox problem with the 2011. When it was about 10 hours old, it wouldn't power shift without the clutch and power rolled off. Tried new shift shaft/paw, star, indent roller, shift drum. Different oils, and even the mod to th Spring that is on YouTube. Gave up on it in the end, and sold it to a friend who is still using it as a woods bike to this day with no issues. Got sick of looking at the inside of this engine.
The Shop
The husqvarna was definitely a lot more refined than the earlier versions. The 2011 was brutal fast, whereas the husky was softer and easier to ride. They were all jetted perfectly, and I highly recommend the Suzuki needle swap if the bike hasn't had it done already.
But like others have said, get a revalve and it will be almost as good. I recently installed JBI Pro Perch in my forks and need to play around with oil levels, but this made an immediate improvement.
The sliding plate needs to be sharpened and the shifting problems goes away, shifting is very direct and positive.
A 1/8 round fill and the sliding plate clamped in the vise, sharpen to resemble this, just a quick drawing to illustrate the problem:
If the shifting plate does not make a good grab, it bypasses the shifting drum and no shift. If KTM/Husky would make a new die for that stamped plate that has a sharper hook, there would be no problem.
But you need to remove the inner clutch case and basket to pull the shifting assembly out to sharpen. Also might need that inner clutch case gasket too.
Good info for sure and something I'll keep an eye on. Thanks yall.
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