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Only $10 for all 2024 SX, MX, and SMX series (regularly $30).
I'm assuming it's soft ceramics. This stuff is soft ceramic, and has to come up to operating temp to stick. See what you can find, this stuff is a black hole. I don't know if I can even get it stateside. Liquid/flammable
CDI goes in airbox or abouts, haven't leveled exactly where.
You want a job?? I need cable fitters!
The Shop
Are you using Tefzel wire or something else?
I used to do this in the USMC, then again in Japan we used to swap motors a lot and interface chassis and engine harness. This isn't too bad, really. 12 wires.
To get this bike to run with a powerjet and TPS, it's a 88-98 crank, a 99 flywheel, a 02 stator. But the keyway location changed from 98-99, so to compensate, i reclocked the stator itself which lined up in the orifice, in the case, just needed another couple slots drilled to torque it down and give me a little room to play with. The other method would be mounting the stator in the OEM location, removing the keyway and using compound on the flywheel to torque it to the crank with no keyway, using a degree wheel & TDC. I thought it better to redrill the stator and spin it because it's easier to work on once it's drilled, and repeatability and reliability are both higher. Pre powerjet bikes are a 5 wire stator. Then they got the 6th to pull 12V off the stator to power the powerjet solenoid (believe it's rectified down to 3-4V by the black box, have to look at a pin out)
With the TPS, I can set up a threshold type traction control. If, say TPS value is at 50% and RPMs increase without a TPS value increase, it translates that as wheelspin, and adjusts the timing. In theory. In actuality, prob only work on starts as a "launch mode". I can't see it working quickly enough to keep up with TPS values that probably jump all over the place. I'll figure it out. There are also a lot of powerjet options. Will be fun to Dyno then run straight to a track and bounce that off now it actually rides. I don't have many expectations, because:
1. Using a few experimental parts, ain't exactly street legal, keep it on the DL.
3. It's a weird oversquare twostroke at 82mm bore X 68mm stroke, but I don't think it's going to want to rev, because of a small crankcase volume. If I had to guess, I think this bike will make about 34ftlbs of tq before 5000 RPMs but it's hard to say with the bore/stroke. That's a tug in the pants that will make a 450 feel like a TTR230 on the front of the curve.
My dad had a friend back in the day who made model hydroplanes.. had the fastest one in the UK for a fair while, and he also rode Bultaco road racers, needless to say a bottle of MC1 BelRay lasted twice as long as everyone elses.
Or, do you think, perhaps, that with this product is so poorly marketed and lost in translation, that their 2T and 4T additive's descriptions got mixed up on the internet, then copy and pasted on vendor sites incorrectly too?
Answer wisely, there's a free YZ360 in it for you.
"What's your manual say?".
"60:1, but that's way too lean, my daddy always ran 32:1 so that's what I run."
"The oil filler cap on your truck says 5W20 on it, why don't you put 20W50 in it?"
"Well, because it ain't spec'd for 20W50! Shits too thick!"
*Waits 5 seconds to see if dots connect....they don't.... puts on sunglasses*
"Hey...let.me guess, you're also chasing jetting, probably on a Mikuni TMX"
"How'd you know! I can't get that thing to jet right!!!"
*Waits another 5 seconds to see if dots connect this time.....they don't....cracks beer*
Does it look like I give a fuck..... ........
I immediately after my dismay of what he said, responded with
“Well, you have your hard hat on, your safety glasses, steel toes, and coveralls on, your start card and job hazard assessment are both filled out, and your here for the tool box meeting...... sorry bud, but it really looks like you do give a fuck!”
I would like to have a way to explain how it works because then i get a bike.
What youre saying about copy pasting i think is true but it says it on the product page from the manufacturer which is from the Netherlands.
I would love to have an oldtimer bike and built it. But i only have the funds for 1 bike and will ride my yz125 untill it is broken.
I would like to come out to vmxdn and see this amazing bike.
With that being said, all my surfaces are coated, so I'm prob not going to use any additives. There's no metal for them to bond to that isn't already covered in polymer, and I don't know how this stuff will react.
Probably be fine. But I'll bet everyone who's ever mixed orange coolant and green coolant thought it would be fine too...
Pit Row
What's a good Chromebook type little laptop that I can get without contributing to Google, Apple, or China? (Tough, I know) Tablet might be ok, but I hate how they use a mobile OS.
Might just get the new Samsung Note20 as my next phone, so I can just tune the bike with that. Just not sure how Tunebox will work on these shitty mobile OS.
As an idea about your upcoming water pump/cooling shitshow: there is quite an aftermarket for Banshees. A quick google search shows lots of billet/custom water pump offerings. One of those vendors might actually build you one to your needed spec. If nothing else, might be a useful source of an impeller design to reverse engineer. Lots of these banshees put out big HP numbers.
Forgot I didn't have a Kickstarter ring on the clutch basket. Had to eBay one, it's a disco'd part. It's getting Polydyn coated. Sending a second box over there with the rest of the clutch. The Barnett uses the stainless finger covers, and I believe those, plus the slick polymer will make the clutch absolute butter. The question is, factoring that my transmission and primary drive is all coated; my transmission fluid decision comes down to clutch feel, and you could say film strength. I'm no Ronnie Tichenor but I can feel the difference between Belray Gearsaver and 30wt on my left big toe. You can feel the gears "clack" more with the thinner oil. It almost feels like the transmission spits the shifter back at you. Belray had this cushion to the engagement that just absorbs the shift more positively. It's not a Princess and the Pea situation, I can't be the only one. Also depends where you use the cast aluminum shifter or the IMS steel, I swear I don't ride in flip flops im just picky. Prob run Belray for that alone but I've never run this coating so who knows how it'll feel, but I'll feel it.
I also scored a real clean inner/outer clutch and water pump combo, and the dork left the whole powervalve mechanism and linkage in there. It's different from the 88-89 linkage that I must use due to deck height. The rest of the mechanism is going to Polydyn in shipment 2. I'm basically hoarding 88-91 cases and 92+ clutches and cranks. This cover I'm going to strip and polish inner and outer. I appreciate the compliments but when the dust settles I just want to be remembered as the bastard who pulled off the most polished stuff with out looking like a white trash dune goon
Shipment 3 will be the carb for a fuel atomization specific coating. Carl is quick. But Tom Morgan has the carb on the flow bench. Not sure if it will get bored, it's on the bench from Bell to piston. Whatever flows best. Sortve after a number but much moreso after a curve.
Dirtbike plug wire is 7mm, armed with that knowledge, go forth and buy a large length of quality wire and replace what comes on it. I've had this length of NGK I've been cutting from for awhile.
Do let us know how those Brisk plugs work out compared to the NGK red box BR8EG. Not sure how much they cost but if equal in quality & then cheaper than the NGK I would try them. However as much as we all know about plugs I think we get this rabbit hole of a subject & know they won’t light the world on fire (pun intended LoL) 👍🏻
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