Works Ohlins Yamaha YZ360 doesn't meet minimum friend requirement for Farleigh

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8/27/2020 9:14 AM
Edited Date/Time: 8/27/2020 10:12 AM

I have been hesitant to put this build on this forum, because to be totally honest, I don't like most forum people, so we can just get that out of the way. The few of you out there who know what you're looking at, this ones for you. The few of you who maybe don't know what you're looking at, but are interested in learning more, this is for you, too. The majority of you who'd rather argue the ramifications of Ken Roczen not tagging his current underwear sponsor in his latest IG post probably won't find much here.

There will be a lot of text. Feel free, rather than complaining, to just look at the pictures. I got a degree that way, so you can look at dirtbikes that way without bitching, if you're not into reading. I'm not even reading this.

Just saving folks some time on the front side, I know how precious a commodity that is.

There won't be perfect chronology. The bike is 90% complete as of 8/26/20.

In the early 90s, I decided that the Ohlins 360 was the coolest thing I had ever seen and eventually I'd build one. Larry Brooks, Kyle Lewis, and Shawn Kalos holeshotting works 500s on Noleen 360s just resonated with me in '93. They seemed so much more nimble, and entered corners like a 250, but exited like a 500.

In 1988, Ohlins developed an open class kit to address Yamaha's lack of a water cooled Open bike. The idea, it would appear, was to use Yamaha parts, virtually all Yamaha parts, save for the cylinder and head itself, and a 360-specific exhaust. There were, or so I've heard but not verified, 999 of these made.

There are a lot of common misconceptions with this set up. The two big ones I hear a lot are:

"It's a big bore kit." - No, its really an entire engine package that uses 250 cases and transmission. Drop this cylinder, head, piston, and rod into a YZ250 and it wont make it across the yard in one piece.

"It uses anything from 88-98" - Ha, only if you have something against your boost port and enjoy blocking it. Otherwise its 88-91 cases.

I never owned a YZ250. I decided it would actually be better to build an entire bike from scratch. I wouldnt use much from a used bike. This bike is almost all NOS. Not sure if anyone reading this has done it, but its an exercise in insanity if you've done it with a YZ. The Hondas are like "Skill level 2" models..theyre dirtbikes, but they have 30 years of parts commonality. Everything fits everything else, it almost seems like. Almost. Yamaha builds 1 year "transition" bikes from new to old model. They've done it since the 70s. The 96-01 is 3 different bikes. Forums think radiator shrouds denote bike changes. Between the 125 and 250 there are about 6 different swingarm part numbers there alone.

The basis of the motor is:
-88-91 YZ250 cases (go ahead and run 92+)
-YZ250 crank counterweights
-YZ490/WR500 conrod, pin, bearing
-1979 YZ400 piston (a one year transition piston, 82mm)

The intrinsic drawbacks are:
-Adding a ton of weight to a rotating assembly, in the worst possible place requires lots of balancing and the addition of tungsten.
-Renders motor incredibly oversquare at 82mm bore x 68mm stroke, no bueno for MX twostrokes
-250cc crankcase volume very low for producing high RPM power with 360cc.
-Every secondary and tertiary engine/chassis component designed around 41hp engine

"If you don't balance that thing perfectly, its like standing on the brake at 8,000 rpms."

-Doug Dubach, US Factory YZ360 development rider 1989

Initial Thought Process on Set-up and parts combination:
- "Man, I really loved the 1997 YZM400, too bad it had that piece of shit lump that tried to kill the guy til they beat it into submission in mid 98."
- 96-97 Chassis for best parts commonality. 1998 is a one year bike/frame. With 96-97 I get two years on most things, save for some small items like the chain guide. (telling you, Yamaha is all over the map)
- Handmade swingarm +25mm length, 1991 works YZM design, for increased length & lateral rigidity to accommodate increased torque.
- Alloy tank
- Ohlins Suspension, front and rear
-Showa HPSD (Honda Progressive Steering damper) fixed to chassis.

Well, on with it.

So I found a 97 chassis, very lightly used, and began modifying it.
-I first, taught myself how to weld. Once i was satisfied with my own ability to stick two pieces of metal together on something im going to jump The Leap on. Get the giggles out now, it wont be funny for long.
-Then I removed the CDI hanger, the rear brake remote reservoir interfaces.
-I added 3 skid plate tabs for a 05 GYTR skid plate and water pump guard. Fabricated them simply by best guestimation on how thick i needed to make them to jusrt tap directly through, and strong enough to not bend under the weight of the bike on the stand. I then measured and welded the mso that the glide plate hangs ~5mm lower than the cradle, so the cradle doesnt sit on the stand anymore.
-I measured and fabricated the HPSD mount and welded it on. It's not pretty, but it blends in with the rest of the birdshit OEM Japanese welds and wont break. Plus, I didnt have to leave it at some asshole's metal fab shop for a week, so he could explain to me 400 reasons why this one weld is harder than building an offshore oil rig in a tropical storm and he has to charge me $100 for 11 minutes of labor...like 3/4 of them do.
-I also reinfoced the footpeg pin orfices. They're press-fit (with a firm hand) now. No vibration.

I achieved the color by:
1. Media blast with aluminum oxide so my frame isnt embedded with a bunch of silicate based shit.
2. 180 grit...220 grit......400 grit..... Scotchbrite... you know the drill.
3. Torched the existing welds to get a nice blueing, then saturated the hot metal in a lanolin based penetrant.
4. I am anti powercoat. if building bikes is art, powdercoat is crayons. But there isnt a clear on the market strong enough to withstand the beating of moto. so, i conceded this once. I pre-baked it to remove impurities (penetrant) and thats what gave it that bronzed overtone.
5. Sprayed it
6. Baked it
7. Chased and tapped everything twice. Dont like threading hardware into a sugar cookie.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/27/2020 9:42 AM
Edited Date/Time: 8/27/2020 11:37 AM

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I was able to buy this whole series of Mooks (they call magazine + book a Mook in Japan) when I lived in Japan. Thought the deltabox design (Yamaha borrowed the design a bit from the OW750 from around that same year) looked really cool, and wanted my own, to my own spec.



So, I first contacted Landruss, but he wants 2,000 up front to ghost you for two years on a swingarm, so I thought I'll pass on that. Decided, "Why don't I track down one of the guys who was doing these back in the day?"...rather than bascially offering a zero interest loan to a fabricator on the gamble that i'll get a part sometime before the next meteor strike.

Enter Giovanni Di Stramigioli. Now, I dont speak Italian, and he speaks as much English as your average landscaper, but between the two of us, we got close enough that I think I touched up one weld with a dremel to clear a linkage bolt. This was during peak Covid, and I had to send him a swingarm. Took almost a month for ITaly to clear it through customs, but once he got it, he built this in about 7 days, and it took prbably 7-8 to get all the way back, because US customs was functioning at full capacity by the time it headed back. Still ran about 1,900 usd, wired.

When a part gets fabricated like this, it will be covered in tool marks from the process. metal brakes, vices, scribes, ect. I spent a couple days...180...220...320...400...800... nothing glamorous about this stuff. Angle grinders are for people who hate dirtbikes.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/27/2020 9:43 AM

I like your style! 😂 Can’t wait to read/see more!

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8/27/2020 9:44 AM

mxav8r wrote:

I like your style! 😂 Can’t wait to read/see more!

The beatings are going to get progressively worse.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/27/2020 9:58 AM

The Showa HPSD set up. Honda mounts these with M7 hardware, so it's tougher to get titanium. This bike is almost all Ti in that arena.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/27/2020 10:29 AM
Edited Date/Time: 8/27/2020 12:25 PM

I got 2019 Ohlins forks from a YZ250F. Fourstrokes DO make good parts bikes, and I intend to pressure wash my twostroke regularly with a fourstroke.

On the shock, good luck finding a serviceable 96-97 YZ twostroke shock. I got a 99 YZ400F shock. The eye to eye length on this shock is 486.5mm. The YZ250 is 472. Easy day, when you have a work bench full of shims and spacers to adjust stroke length.

I expressed this to Clark Jones at Noleen 5 times, 3 before and 2 after he built it (I made tally marks on my note pad, im funny like that when it comes to holding known fuck-ups accountable, old military habit)

I'll edit this and leave it at that.

End state is this, I dropped the shaft length -1mm to 471mm (stock YZ250 is 472) because Pythagoras and a slightly longer swingarm.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/27/2020 12:21 PM

Cool bike, always liked it, shame about its handicap.
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Fuel tank. I like to keep my money inside my own economy when I can, how terrible of me, I know. But, no one stateside is really taking a plastic tank out of a box and duplicating it in aluminum. Well, then I'll keep it within The Five Eyes and send it to the UK. The GMX alloy guy wouldnt take my work. So...shit.
How about, at least...a UN ally? India. Over a billion, prob someone there. I track this guy down through various channels and we exchange contact info for WhatsApp. Sent him an 01 YZ125 gas tank to India, middle of nowhere. I challenged him to hide the welds on the external surfaces so it just looks like one smooth tank. Something subtle so when people look at it, they can't figure out why it all looks so good, it just does. But also, nothing to catch my pants or knee braces on. He nailed it. I heard pro circuit puts one side of Velcro on their tanks to keep a good fit against the seat pan, I think that's kind of Family Dollar-ish so I found this closed cell memory foam, adhesive backed and applied it. Won't ever absorb water, supposedly.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/27/2020 12:51 PM

I swore I'd never post on this site again. Breaking my word to support a good buddy and a SICK bike build.

This pays homage to an entire generation of moto. I hope it can be appreciated. There is a ton into this more than buying parts. The richest guy couldn't build this without also living and loving moto in the 90s.

It deserves to go in someone's living room.

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Recovering JS7, PED, 2-stroke vs 4-stroke, Alessi, thread poster....

8/27/2020 2:56 PM

Bad ass work bro! Look forward to seeing this one 👍🏻

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8/27/2020 8:28 PM

This is becoming one of my favorite builds on here. Can’t wait to see more.

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Unleaded tastes a little tangy. Supreme is kinda sour, and diesel tastes pretty good.

8/28/2020 2:33 AM

It is a piece of art.

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8/28/2020 4:40 AM

Alright, having an old guy polish your transmission so it's real shiny is pretty cool. I think it looks neat.

I was thinking I would head over to NASA and see what they're doing though. During the Apollo space program, a fella in Houston solved the problem of lubricating in zero gravity. (Reckon the notion of an oil pan or sump goes out the window in zero gravity) Fast forward another 40 years and they ran Indy at race speed for 500 miles with a dry transmission.

That'll work for +30. Two big themes that you'll start to catch a whiff of here are:
1. I don't like dirtbike industry people at all. Most of them are that guy who'll sell you a bag of comet like it's Colombian disco dust. So I went around everyone as much as possible and went to the source, or made it myself. The 1-2 things I had to stay in the industry on were total disasters which is validation of my sentiment. Not going to get on a pedestal in a build thread but there's a very good reason this shits drying up. The old timers are lazy as fuck, and they also shit all over the younger up and comers so really, everyone loses. No one can make a name for themselves, and they old guard fucking sucks. Tired of waiting 8 weeks for you to put in a shimstack you developed in 1989.
2. No Chy-nah. I see Tusk, I hit the back the back arrow on my browser. That's just me and me alone, I know how sensitive some of you guys are about your ugly ass over engineered Hammerhead beer can brake pedals. (I'm sorry, it's truly a beautiful part, plus you can trap small bears with it. Real small ones, like Teddy Ruxpin sized. But, more on that later.

I went ahead and coated everything on the bike that moves, not just the transmission, even some shit that doesn't move. Why not. Shiny gears are cool, but what about the entire shift mechanism is what I was thinking. Powervalve, hell I see the kickstart gear in there. Supersized the value meal.

Brake pins. Caliper sliders. Those were big ones for me. They're Ti and coated. I HATE shitty, sticky brakes and wobbly rotors. My opinion and my opinion alone, no offense to anyone with shitty brakes. More on that later. #makerotorsroundagain

On the rod, piston dome, and powervalve mechanism, I did a ceramic heat resistance coating. Nothing will stick to it (supposedly, but I bootlegged some Aunt Jemima during the 2020 Race Wars and that's a sticky bitch, I'll bet cermaic can't shake it) Sick of cleaning powervalves with media blasters. Now I'll just wipe it off with a surplus moist towelette and keep on Rollin.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/28/2020 4:54 AM

Seriously, this thread is GOLD!!! Laughing and learning and excited to see the final product.

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8/28/2020 5:14 AM

TheTwostrokeTaliban wrote:

Alright, having an old guy polish your transmission so it's real shiny is pretty cool. I think it looks neat.

I was thinking I would head over to NASA and see what they're doing though. During the Apollo space program, a fella in Houston solved the problem of lubricating in zero gravity. (Reckon the notion of an oil pan or sump goes out the window in zero gravity) Fast forward another 40 years and they ran Indy at race speed for 500 miles with a dry transmission.

That'll work for +30. Two big themes that you'll start to catch a whiff of here are:
1. I don't like dirtbike industry people at all. Most of them are that guy who'll sell you a bag of comet like it's Colombian disco dust. So I went around everyone as much as possible and went to the source, or made it myself. The 1-2 things I had to stay in the industry on were total disasters which is validation of my sentiment. Not going to get on a pedestal in a build thread but there's a very good reason this shits drying up. The old timers are lazy as fuck, and they also shit all over the younger up and comers so really, everyone loses. No one can make a name for themselves, and they old guard fucking sucks. Tired of waiting 8 weeks for you to put in a shimstack you developed in 1989.
2. No Chy-nah. I see Tusk, I hit the back the back arrow on my browser. That's just me and me alone, I know how sensitive some of you guys are about your ugly ass over engineered Hammerhead beer can brake pedals. (I'm sorry, it's truly a beautiful part, plus you can trap small bears with it. Real small ones, like Teddy Ruxpin sized. But, more on that later.

I went ahead and coated everything on the bike that moves, not just the transmission, even some shit that doesn't move. Why not. Shiny gears are cool, but what about the entire shift mechanism is what I was thinking. Powervalve, hell I see the kickstart gear in there. Supersized the value meal.

Brake pins. Caliper sliders. Those were big ones for me. They're Ti and coated. I HATE shitty, sticky brakes and wobbly rotors. My opinion and my opinion alone, no offense to anyone with shitty brakes. More on that later. #makerotorsroundagain

On the rod, piston dome, and powervalve mechanism, I did a ceramic heat resistance coating. Nothing will stick to it (supposedly, but I bootlegged some Aunt Jemima during the 2020 Race Wars and that's a sticky bitch, I'll bet cermaic can't shake it) Sick of cleaning powervalves with media blasters. Now I'll just wipe it off with a surplus moist towelette and keep on Rollin.

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Sorry - I read this part and am still missing something...It's my fault for missing ..What exactly did you do to the moving parts? You said they are titanium and coated. You mean every gear, shaft, etc inside the motor is titanium and then you also coated it? With what exactly? If you don't mind me asking.

I've heard of cerakoting pistons skirts, heads, combustion chamber, even the cylinder with micro slick. etc., so I'm just curious and learning.

Thanks.

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8/28/2020 5:15 AM

Like Quentin Tarrantino we will jump a little ahead right here, but I'm going to go back for the lead-up.

...and don't ask. The answers no. It's too much money. Plus, you have a rehearsal dinner that weekend for the wedding of someone you've never met. Sorry.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/28/2020 5:25 AM

mx4l wrote:

Sorry - I read this part and am still missing something...It's my fault for missing ..What exactly did you do to the moving parts? You said they are titanium and coated. You mean every gear, shaft, etc inside the motor is titanium and then you also coated it? With what exactly? If you don't mind me asking.

I've heard of cerakoting pistons skirts, heads, combustion chamber, even the cylinder with micro slick. etc., so I'm just curious and learning.

Thanks.

The brake pins and pistons are titanium, then coated. The rest of the motor internals are OEM, new, and coated.

The rod pin, and big end of the rod are coated, but the bearing is not...because this shit is so slick the bearings won't spin if they're coated, they just slide/skid.

That graphite colored stuff is the coating.

There are other coatings out there that people have prob heard of. Microblue and stuff like that. Those are brand names like Trojan, and Heckler & Koch.

This stuff is called Polydyn. It's by Polymer Dynamics, and they're on Neeshaw Dr. In Houston TX. The man's name is Carl Bennett. He's trying to retire and teach his daughter this trade, so if you guys want to send him boxes of parts, it'll ensure theyre around for another generation.

To put it in perspective , all coatings were probably $400, which is Jack Shit when doing a bike like this. This illustrates why I don't deal with motocross people anymore. They'd charge you a grand, take a month to send it to someone else to actually do the work, another month to send it back, and just generally act like a fucking dickhead the entire time. I promise when Lockheed built the SR-71, they didn't call Boeing and ask for bearings. They just built the damned thing

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/28/2020 5:28 AM

mxav8r wrote:

Seriously, this thread is GOLD!!! Laughing and learning and excited to see the final product.

"I know this guy who assembled a bike, and disassembled the motocross service industry at the same time."

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/28/2020 5:36 AM

TheTwostrokeTaliban wrote:

Alright, having an old guy polish your transmission so it's real shiny is pretty cool. I think it looks neat.

I was thinking I would head over to NASA and see what they're doing though. During the Apollo space program, a fella in Houston solved the problem of lubricating in zero gravity. (Reckon the notion of an oil pan or sump goes out the window in zero gravity) Fast forward another 40 years and they ran Indy at race speed for 500 miles with a dry transmission.

That'll work for +30. Two big themes that you'll start to catch a whiff of here are:
1. I don't like dirtbike industry people at all. Most of them are that guy who'll sell you a bag of comet like it's Colombian disco dust. So I went around everyone as much as possible and went to the source, or made it myself. The 1-2 things I had to stay in the industry on were total disasters which is validation of my sentiment. Not going to get on a pedestal in a build thread but there's a very good reason this shits drying up. The old timers are lazy as fuck, and they also shit all over the younger up and comers so really, everyone loses. No one can make a name for themselves, and they old guard fucking sucks. Tired of waiting 8 weeks for you to put in a shimstack you developed in 1989.
2. No Chy-nah. I see Tusk, I hit the back the back arrow on my browser. That's just me and me alone, I know how sensitive some of you guys are about your ugly ass over engineered Hammerhead beer can brake pedals. (I'm sorry, it's truly a beautiful part, plus you can trap small bears with it. Real small ones, like Teddy Ruxpin sized. But, more on that later.

I went ahead and coated everything on the bike that moves, not just the transmission, even some shit that doesn't move. Why not. Shiny gears are cool, but what about the entire shift mechanism is what I was thinking. Powervalve, hell I see the kickstart gear in there. Supersized the value meal.

Brake pins. Caliper sliders. Those were big ones for me. They're Ti and coated. I HATE shitty, sticky brakes and wobbly rotors. My opinion and my opinion alone, no offense to anyone with shitty brakes. More on that later. #makerotorsroundagain

On the rod, piston dome, and powervalve mechanism, I did a ceramic heat resistance coating. Nothing will stick to it (supposedly, but I bootlegged some Aunt Jemima during the 2020 Race Wars and that's a sticky bitch, I'll bet cermaic can't shake it) Sick of cleaning powervalves with media blasters. Now I'll just wipe it off with a surplus moist towelette and keep on Rollin.

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mx4l wrote:

Sorry - I read this part and am still missing something...It's my fault for missing ..What exactly did you do to the moving parts? You said they are titanium and coated. You mean every gear, shaft, etc inside the motor is titanium and then you also coated it? With what exactly? If you don't mind me asking.

I've heard of cerakoting pistons skirts, heads, combustion chamber, even the cylinder with micro slick. etc., so I'm just curious and learning.

Thanks.

TheTwostrokeTaliban wrote:

The brake pins and pistons are titanium, then coated. The rest of the motor internals are OEM, new, and coated.

The rod pin, and big end of the rod are coated, but the bearing is not...because this shit is so slick the bearings won't spin if they're coated, they just slide/skid.

That graphite colored stuff is the coating.

There are other coatings out there that people have prob heard of. Microblue and stuff like that. Those are brand names like Trojan, and Heckler & Koch.

This stuff is called Polydyn. It's by Polymer Dynamics, and they're on Neeshaw Dr. In Houston TX. The man's name is Carl Bennett. He's trying to retire and teach his daughter this trade, so if you guys want to send him boxes of parts, it'll ensure theyre around for another generation.

To put it in perspective , all coatings were probably $400, which is Jack Shit when doing a bike like this. This illustrates why I don't deal with motocross people anymore. They'd charge you a grand, take a month to send it to someone else to actually do the work, another month to send it back, and just generally act like a fucking dickhead the entire time. I promise when Lockheed built the SR-71, they didn't call Boeing and ask for bearings. They just built the damned thing

Perfect. Thanks for the reply.

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8/28/2020 7:18 AM

Great thread...really cool bike.
Me thinks your a little hard on the entire Moto industry being super shady douche bags but but I have met a couple that fit your description.
Carry on and I'm following

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8/28/2020 7:30 AM
Edited Date/Time: 8/28/2020 8:08 AM

Somewhere in there, I got to where my elementary fabricating skills got just good enough to build a fab table. I had this $69 Chinese piece of shit welding table that I got tired of having to hide under a Guns & Roses bed spread when my friends came over. Wanted something I could be proud of. Kinda. 36x48x1/2"



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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/28/2020 7:50 AM

Great build and good writing. Your industry comments are spot on, directionally at least.

Love to see an actual build, not the typical grips n' graphics parts changing that gets farmed for instagram likes.

That tank is art. The 97 chassis should be miles better than 88-91. Can't go wrong with Ohlins. And I clapped in my chair when you railed against Tusk and Hammerhead parts.

So glad you will be riding it. Watching with great interest.

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8/28/2020 8:12 AM

LOOnatic wrote:

Great thread...really cool bike.
Me thinks your a little hard on the entire Moto industry being super shady douche bags but but I have met a couple that fit your description.
Carry on and I'm following

it seems that way now, because I'm saving the good people for later on, when everyone's looking. That's where it matters.

Giovanni Di Stramigioli is who makes the parts you see on the IG @factoryaluminumparts (or something like that) He doesn't use IG and I barely do anymore. But those are his parts. If you dig hard on that IG, you'll find that swingarm.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/28/2020 8:19 AM

THREAD OF THE YEAR.

also gotta agree with you 100% here:
"This illustrates why I don't deal with motocross people anymore. They'd charge you a grand, take a month to send it to someone else to actually do the work, another month to send it back, and just generally act like a fucking dickhead the entire time."

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Ride like a girl!!!
2016 KTM 500 EXC-F
Current project: 2007 Kawasaki KX250-R7 retro build
Current project #2: 1987 Kawasaki KX250-E1 rider/racer resto
1989 KX125 resto
1987 RM250 resto

8/28/2020 10:44 AM
Edited Date/Time: 8/28/2020 10:50 AM

Every bit of cooling help I can get, I'll need it l when trying to cool 60+hp with 45hp worth of radiator and water pump. Prob 1.8bar cap, waterless coolant, and I'm thinking about extending the tank on the lower left. Mitchie P. made 50 of these catch tanks for retail. You can get a good idea of what the frame actually looks like here.

The aluminum is shiny because I have to keep going back and wiping little corrosion dots off with polish from where I sweat/drip on this thing.

Also working on an inline coolant heat sink that made a big difference on those piece of shit Kawazuki 250s that boiled before the card went sideways.

If all of that fails, I have a fan and a thermostat.

If that fails, I'll just put it in my office.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/28/2020 11:08 AM
Edited Date/Time: 8/28/2020 11:26 AM

These pictures illustrate why I built a bike from parts. On the throttle side of the bars alone, you have:
-Brembo 12mm master cyl from 02-04 big fourstrokes.
-Domino Keihin KTM throttle housing, modified and vapor blasted
-G2 throttle tube with end bearing.

Yamaha parts: 0

For the front caliper, you have a vapor blasted 24mm Nissin, a 27mm Nissin, and a type 3 ano 24mm Nissin that I did to choose from. I also have an 11mm piston Nissin master cyl to test different combos here. I'm starting with 12mm MC and 27mm caliper, and if it doesn't kill me, I'll stay. If it's too much, I can reel it in with a smaller piston caliper.

All the pistons, and pins are ti and coated.

The rotor is a genuine works Yamaha 270mm from Japan that fell from the sky in the form of space junk. It weighs nothing. Obviously, the main component in that design is air. Wave rotors are garbage. Total gimmick. They save have a third of a rotor, then charge you twice as much. They don't hold their shape worth a shit, and they flex under braking. Plenty of videos of those things wobbling under braking. Plus they're ugly as shit and remind me of TaoTao 140s. Round rotors for me, my opinion only. Sort of a weird knitpick.

Then there's that rotor guard. No one makes a good one, so (audible sigh) I had one made custom out of kevlar. I always liked it better than carbon anyway.

One evolution I had to make was abandoning identifying parts by year make model. Now it's by measurements. I don't know what any of this shit is off is anymore, but I know what fits and what doesn't. I have a "green monster" government log book full of measurements and specs for this thing for when I have to replace the stuff I bend up, inevitably. That's all that companies like All Balls are doing. Selling you a $1.00 bearing for $10.00 because you don't want to mic ID, OD, width, and order a whole sleeve of ABEC-7 ceramic hybrids for not much more than what it costs for Chyyyy-NAH bearings through a re-brander. I will say that's ridiculous though for normal people who have other shit to do, like wedding rehearsal dinners for strangers.



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How long before someone goes "oh shit did this crazy bastard lace new DID Shoulderless rims on to a YZ??"



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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/28/2020 11:19 AM

Thanks for posting! Awesome build! I’ve been watching Ozzy Man reviews on the tube, and can’t help to put some down under affect into your posts as I read them! Totally epic!

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8/28/2020 11:23 AM

And thanks for the brake info. I’m fitting a Showa A kit onto an 05 yz and think I’m going down a rabbit hole of how to build/setup a proper front brake setup since the existing will no longer work. You have offered lots of insight...

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8/28/2020 11:31 AM
Edited Date/Time: 8/28/2020 11:50 AM

I can make a reflective LBZ sticker fashionable in 2020, you'll see. Actually probably not. Can't go out of style of you're never in style though.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/28/2020 11:55 AM

nch209 wrote:

And thanks for the brake info. I’m fitting a Showa A kit onto an 05 yz and think I’m going down a rabbit hole of how to build/setup a proper front brake setup since the existing will no longer work. You have offered lots of insight...

Thats my goal.
If you know the hanger bolts to your fork leg that's step one. Accommodates a 270 rotor is step 2. Then just measure the distance between the two holes for.thw caliper sliders. One slider is on the hanger, ones on the caliper. Measure those two holes C-C and put whatever caliper on there you want. Order whatever pistons you want to, as long as their the right dimension, doesn't matter where you get em.

I am getting a lathe and a Bridgeport end mill late this year, early next year hopefully. Then I'll just make brake pistons outta whatever. (whatever=something with good thermo properties)

Then I'll make connecting rods.....crankshafts....I'm getting ahead of the thread here, but preview: it gets intense when I start making friends with heat treaters and metalurgists who happen to like dirtbikes



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IG: persona_non_grata_moto

8/28/2020 2:44 PM
Edited Date/Time: 8/28/2020 2:49 PM

This cylinder kit was NOS, everything unused, except the cyl itself came from a build that was floating around the internet...he had it dipped that fake carbon look paint shit.

I rescued it and knocked the extra chromosome back off and it's unmolested. Stock ports. They made two generations of these things. Early, and late. This is the preferable late model with larger exhaust port and revised coolant passages. Really just means less material for the porter to remove.

So that. Tom Morgan. Tom has the carb, boot, reeds, cylinder, head, piston, rod, and crank. He is using a flowbench to flow this thing from carb bell to piston. I'll probably run it on U4.4 because it's the perfect blend of performance and availability, the 4 strokes all run it, so the vendors always have it. It's leaded and 8% oxygen, two things twostrokes love. I'll be running Redlines new synthetic @ 50:1. He's balancing everything. I have carbon single petal Reeds and boyeson two petal trapdoor Reeds to test.

The carburetor is a 2020 Keihin PWK with powerjet and TPS. Using the billet metering blocks that you can or can't get anymore, I don't know, but I keep one around . I'll be using a custom CDI from HPI and building the wiring harness myself. The CDI will be somewhere near the airbox. The crank is 98, but the stator is a 99, reclocked to reset the keyway position relative to TDC, so I can utilize the 6 wire 99 stator, 6th wire is 12V power to run PJ and TPS.

Still tracking?

Ok. With the TPS, I will be able to set an rpm threshold to bounce off TPS voltage to detect a wheelspin condition, at which point the CDI will advance or retard timing until the conditions change either RPM or TPS voltage. Traction control without a Hall sensor. Will it work? I don't know but I'll have an answer soon enough. Be interesting to see.

The powerjet squirt can be manipulated but apparently these are more so for popping the pipe to cool it down right when you're shutting off. I have a couple custom powerjet sizes I had made in Cleveland for that carb.

I'll be able to test it because I'm building a dyno in my garage. Chassis Dyno. Inertia roller with an Arduino, and ARDyno software. The HPI CDI interface to USB, I'll put a Bluetooth plug in, and tune Ignition via tablet, wirelessly so I don't have to take the seat off. If everything works correctly, and it should. Not sure which sniffer I'm going to buy.

They didn't have a lot of this in 89. Some.

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IG: persona_non_grata_moto