Vapor hone up and running.

BToz
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BToz
Edited Date/Time 5/6/2021 7:48pm
Stock oem 2006 cr250 brake, shifter and front caliper. I just finished the machine; it’s 4ft long by 26 inches deep 22 inches height. I don’t where to post but if anyone needs vapor honing done let me know.




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Jmicmoto13
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Jmicmoto13 8/24/2020 3:45pm
8/24/2020 3:45pm
Nice man. Results look great. In the process of building one myself. Any tips or tricks you could lend?
BToz
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BToz 8/24/2020 5:59pm
8/24/2020 5:59pm
Jmicmoto13 wrote:
Nice man. Results look great. In the process of building one myself. Any tips or tricks you could lend?
Mine was built around what I had for a cabinet (pump volume vs water tank capacity) and how much air volume my compressor could put out. Funny thing is I see people charge by the hour for their service and I was able to blast all three of those pieces in about 60 seconds, no bs, and they weren’t cleaned up prior with a cleaner, brush or pressure washer. You need a sand and water trash pump and configure down flow pipes off the main pipe to get the slurry mixed perfectly. It may take some time but your slurry should look like cloudy water. I have a square 30 gallon stainless tank, should have been a round tank so you can speed up the slurry and keep the glass suspended in the water easier. My gun was made for 40 psi air at 25 cfm (If you want a high volume gun then you have to get a high volume pump, a large compressor, and 1/2 inch fittings with a large free flow foot pedal. It’s all or nothing or it won’t work correctly because you’ll have a bottleneck. Kind of steamrolls.). I use 1 lb of glass bead per gallon of water. Make sure you’re slurry pump doesn’t sit on the bottom of the tank because that is where the glass settles and it will surround the pump. I have 4 foot pedals 2 air and 2 electric. Once you get your hands in the gloves you’re not going to want to pull them out to flip switches and let go of what you’re doing. The air pedals run compressed air (130 psi) and the gun (40 psi) the electric pedals run the slurry pump and the fresh water pump. And lastly make sure you only use non ferrous metals or plastics. My first tank was metal and had “bottom sealer” they use for boats, it didn’t last a month. Any tiny part or piece of metal like a grate or bolts will rust immediately and turn your slurry orange and then you’ll be blasting rusty water on the aluminum parts.
7
BToz
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BToz 8/24/2020 6:47pm
8/24/2020 6:47pm
Jmicmoto13 wrote:
Nice man. Results look great. In the process of building one myself. Any tips or tricks you could lend?
BToz wrote:
Mine was built around what I had for a cabinet (pump volume vs water tank capacity) and how much air volume my compressor could put out...
Mine was built around what I had for a cabinet (pump volume vs water tank capacity) and how much air volume my compressor could put out. Funny thing is I see people charge by the hour for their service and I was able to blast all three of those pieces in about 60 seconds, no bs, and they weren’t cleaned up prior with a cleaner, brush or pressure washer. You need a sand and water trash pump and configure down flow pipes off the main pipe to get the slurry mixed perfectly. It may take some time but your slurry should look like cloudy water. I have a square 30 gallon stainless tank, should have been a round tank so you can speed up the slurry and keep the glass suspended in the water easier. My gun was made for 40 psi air at 25 cfm (If you want a high volume gun then you have to get a high volume pump, a large compressor, and 1/2 inch fittings with a large free flow foot pedal. It’s all or nothing or it won’t work correctly because you’ll have a bottleneck. Kind of steamrolls.). I use 1 lb of glass bead per gallon of water. Make sure you’re slurry pump doesn’t sit on the bottom of the tank because that is where the glass settles and it will surround the pump. I have 4 foot pedals 2 air and 2 electric. Once you get your hands in the gloves you’re not going to want to pull them out to flip switches and let go of what you’re doing. The air pedals run compressed air (130 psi) and the gun (40 psi) the electric pedals run the slurry pump and the fresh water pump. And lastly make sure you only use non ferrous metals or plastics. My first tank was metal and had “bottom sealer” they use for boats, it didn’t last a month. Any tiny part or piece of metal like a grate or bolts will rust immediately and turn your slurry orange and then you’ll be blasting rusty water on the aluminum parts.
Rough early notes; might help?




8
BToz
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BToz 8/24/2020 7:15pm
8/24/2020 7:15pm
I’m in the process of building a large aluminum machine with a wide spray rotary head built in the top with a small handheld siphon sprayer for fine detail areas. I’m hoping to get the water hot enough and recirculate across pigmats screens to collect petroleums and pump clean water back into the slurry. It will be 240v to handle two 1hp pumps, vacuum and a hot water heater (like the on demand hot water taps) plus led lighting. I hoping to get close to 190 degrees so I’ll need heavy insulated gloves and who knows what else I’ll run into. If you’ve seen commercial grade dishwashers or automotive hot tank parts washers, like a hybrid of those but with hands-on and the slurry mix.
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The Shop

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mwilcox349
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mwilcox349 8/27/2020 3:10pm
8/27/2020 3:10pm
BToz wrote:
[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/08/22/445154/s1200_204459CE_6C39_487E_814C_9A10FBCB92C4.jpg[/img]Stock oem 2006 cr250 brake, shifter and front caliper. I just finished the machine; it’s 4ft long by 26 inches deep 22 inches height. I don’t...
Stock oem 2006 cr250 brake, shifter and front caliper. I just finished the machine; it’s 4ft long by 26 inches deep 22 inches height. I don’t where to post but if anyone needs vapor honing done let me know.




You didn't have to remove the rubber pieces or even really dissassembly the caliper? Any before pics? Coming from a glass bead cabinet I think I need one of these istead.
BToz
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BToz 8/27/2020 8:36pm
8/27/2020 8:36pm
The only thing I did before putting the caliper in the machine was put a thick rubber washer/ o-ring on the banjo bolt. I have a clean water system and compressed air in the cabinet as well so I can wash and air blast off the glass bead. The difference is the dry blasting has the appearance of spray painting clean the parts you’re blasting and you can see where you were blasting or what spot you concentrated on more than others. My machine (I don’t know about others) doesn’t do as good at blasting metal (steel, stainless etc) parts. I don’t have any before pictures, I just put those in there and turned it on to see what it would do.
mxracer666
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mxracer666 8/27/2020 9:35pm
8/27/2020 9:35pm
So, the slurry doesn't damage the rubber parts or the seals on a caliper?
queen of spodes 8/28/2020 8:22am
8/28/2020 8:22am
Could you potentially blast an assembled engine if the intake/exhaust ports were sealed off?
BToz
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BToz 8/28/2020 1:48pm
8/28/2020 1:48pm
mxracer666 wrote:
So, the slurry doesn't damage the rubber parts or the seals on a caliper?
No damage at all to the rubber parts. I’m using a high volume with low pressure. It’s only 40 psi at the gun and the water/slurry mix actually is slowing it down even more compared to dry blasting.
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BToz
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BToz 8/28/2020 1:49pm
8/28/2020 1:49pm
Jmicmoto13 wrote:
That is awesome info. Thanks!
You’re welcome!
BToz
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BToz 8/28/2020 1:49pm
8/28/2020 1:49pm
queen of spodes wrote:
Could you potentially blast an assembled engine if the intake/exhaust ports were sealed off?
Yes!
1
ktmfun219
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ktmfun219 9/3/2020 12:32pm
9/3/2020 12:32pm
queen of spodes wrote:
Could you potentially blast an assembled engine if the intake/exhaust ports were sealed off?
BToz wrote:
Yes!
Thanks for your information to date. Queen ask a very good question and would like to hear about real time results of a complete engine or even a bottom end sealed tight with vapor honing vs. complete disassembly prior. My experience on 4-5 engines sealed and having dry blasted with plastic beads will always result in complete disassembly after the fact.
I have now resolved to dis -assemble before dry blasting with any media.

I am always looking for time and money savings results in rebuilding/restoring. Thanks and appreciate feedback for the future.
BToz
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BToz 9/3/2020 7:58pm
9/3/2020 7:58pm
ktmfun219 wrote:
Thanks for your information to date. Queen ask a very good question and would like to hear about real time results of a complete engine or...
Thanks for your information to date. Queen ask a very good question and would like to hear about real time results of a complete engine or even a bottom end sealed tight with vapor honing vs. complete disassembly prior. My experience on 4-5 engines sealed and having dry blasted with plastic beads will always result in complete disassembly after the fact.
I have now resolved to dis -assemble before dry blasting with any media.

I am always looking for time and money savings results in rebuilding/restoring. Thanks and appreciate feedback for the future.
I’ve done a few engines dry blasting (only 2 strokes, but that shouldn’t be much different) and can say wet blasting at a lower pressure with a liquid will be less intrusive than the velocity of dry blasting. The CR250 I did was a complete assembly and did not get torn down after blasting. I still have the bike and ride it often.




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Electro21
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Electro21 9/4/2020 9:11pm
9/4/2020 9:11pm
I’d like to get my calipers done. How much?
BToz
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BToz 9/5/2020 3:05pm
9/5/2020 3:05pm
Prices are roughly $10-$25 per piece with discounts for additional small parts (I’m not going to charge $10 per bolt). Ex: calipers are $15 each and if you include some levers, shifter, or kick start, those would $5 per additional piece. It comes down to size and time; if I can fit all the parts in the cabinet it goes by pretty fast. I think the shipping will be the killer. A well packed flat rate box might be best with as many or few you can get in it. Everything will be packaged as well or better and returned in the same box. Private message me with your email address and I will send you my address thanks!
BToz
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BToz 9/11/2020 6:09pm
9/11/2020 6:09pm
If anyone needs vapor honing let me know!

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Chance1216
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Chance1216 9/11/2020 6:45pm
9/11/2020 6:45pm
BToz wrote:
If anyone needs vapor honing let me know! [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/09/11/448885/s1200_CF4AB7A6_E5B8_45A3_888B_B15C4308DB44.jpg[/img]
If anyone needs vapor honing let me know!

I have a winter project I'm getting ready for. I'll be in touch soon and thank you.
1
BToz
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BToz 11/11/2020 9:21pm
11/11/2020 9:21pm
I don’t do many photos of jobs but this is one I did tonight for a guy. It’s out-of-ordinary being it’s steel and not Moto related.





BToz
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BToz 4/14/2021 2:32pm
4/14/2021 2:32pm Edited Date/Time 5/6/2021 7:48pm
I’m ready for more parts! Send them to me and I’ll get them back to you ASAP! If you send them through my website (https://vapor-hone.com) make sure you put “vital” in the subject line. You can send me pictures and ask for estimates as well!
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BToz
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BToz 4/16/2021 8:45am
4/16/2021 8:45am
Recent parts from a vital member..


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profeshenal125 4/18/2021 10:02am
4/18/2021 10:02am
BToz wrote:
Prices are roughly $10-$25 per piece with discounts for additional small parts (I’m not going to charge $10 per bolt). Ex: calipers are $15 each and...
Prices are roughly $10-$25 per piece with discounts for additional small parts (I’m not going to charge $10 per bolt). Ex: calipers are $15 each and if you include some levers, shifter, or kick start, those would $5 per additional piece. It comes down to size and time; if I can fit all the parts in the cabinet it goes by pretty fast. I think the shipping will be the killer. A well packed flat rate box might be best with as many or few you can get in it. Everything will be packaged as well or better and returned in the same box. Private message me with your email address and I will send you my address thanks!
So only 25.00 for a cr125 frame, sounds very reasonable. What do ya think happened here, some large grain sand left in the unit ? I just bought the bike, I did no polishing, cylinder is polished tho.
BToz
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BToz 4/18/2021 12:19pm
4/18/2021 12:19pm
profeshenal125 wrote:
So only 25.00 for a cr125 frame, sounds very reasonable. What do ya think happened here, some large grain sand left in the unit ? I...
So only 25.00 for a cr125 frame, sounds very reasonable. What do ya think happened here, some large grain sand left in the unit ? I just bought the bike, I did no polishing, cylinder is polished tho.
It’s a bit tight (from the measurements I took from my CR).. but if you want me to do your frame, I’m game! I’m no expert on casting or metals but I did look this up a while back because my 06 RM cylinder looked just like that (minus the polishing). The people way smarter than me call in “dross” or “drossing” and it means metal loss probably from cutting costs/time in manufacturing.
1
profeshenal125 4/18/2021 9:13pm
4/18/2021 9:13pm
profeshenal125 wrote:
So only 25.00 for a cr125 frame, sounds very reasonable. What do ya think happened here, some large grain sand left in the unit ? I...
So only 25.00 for a cr125 frame, sounds very reasonable. What do ya think happened here, some large grain sand left in the unit ? I just bought the bike, I did no polishing, cylinder is polished tho.
BToz wrote:
It’s a bit tight (from the measurements I took from my CR).. but if you want me to do your frame, I’m game! I’m no expert...
It’s a bit tight (from the measurements I took from my CR).. but if you want me to do your frame, I’m game! I’m no expert on casting or metals but I did look this up a while back because my 06 RM cylinder looked just like that (minus the polishing). The people way smarter than me call in “dross” or “drossing” and it means metal loss probably from cutting costs/time in manufacturing.
Ok, I Was thinking some large grain sand was in there gun. I had a 04 before it looked normal. I have Tara Gieger,s 04 practice cylinder also, little beat up. But no pits.
1

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