2018 250sx overhaul

AJ565
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San Antonio, TX US
Edited Date/Time 11/18/2020 7:27pm
The bike has 90 hours on it now. This past weekend the pipe cracked on me so I decided since I had to replace it I might as well tear it down for a rebuild. That’s 90 hours on the stock top end for those of you who haven’t seen me mention it before in other threads that I haven’t cracked it open yet.







After an hour this is where I’m at.


I did a compression test before pulling the engine. I’m still at 200psi which is exactly the same as I tested at 50 hours.



Then I pulled the cylinder off to see what the piston and cylinder looked like. I’d say running amsoil dominator at 55:1 has been the best oil for this engine for sure. No scoring, scuffs, wear marks or heavy build up. Inside the pipe is also very clean and no scaling or build up. The ring gap measured .53mm for the top ring and .45mm for the bottom ring and spec. is .40mm, but that’s at 20mm down and I measured about 7mm down so I’ll have to recheck it tomorrow. For being out of spec. the bike sure did run amazing.










Plans for the rebuild; new grapics, plastics, pipe, repack the silencer, Boyesen rad valve, top end rebuild, suspension rebuild, grips, grease, replace wear parts.

Done so far; replaced the wheels with DID dirt stars and stainless steel spokes, front and rear SKF wheel bearings.
8
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Rickyisms
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10/20/2020 6:49am
That bike looks very good inside and out for 90 hours. After 100 hours of XC racing mine looked like hot garbage.
4
YZed250
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11/6/2020 1:20pm
Might be worth repacking the silencer, definitely check the linkage and swingarm pivots for grease/wear.
Very impressed with how it's running! Seems like you've got it right in the design window (A:F, track conditions, maintenance, fuel). Nice job.
sandman768
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Saratoga Springs, NY US
11/6/2020 4:20pm
I just rode mine today ... it has about 90 hrs but I replaced the piston at 60 hrs. I run Dominator also at 40:1 with 25% leaded race gas / non E pump gas. My top end looked great as well. I checked stock reeds they were fine, still running them. Bought the carb jet block oring and replaced it but the stock oring was fine. My powervalves were functioning fine but had some minor carbon build up. I bought the Slavens complete top end kit with Vertex B piston. His piston ez circlips make life much easier, the standard Vertex clips are a Pita. My bike is used as a backup or do it all bike. I have raced MX on it, GNCC”s and woods... once the jetting is sorted, the bike has an answer for everything. Great bikes...

The Shop

11/9/2020 4:36pm
Are you going to split the cases and check tranny gears and crank? If you do, I'd like to see what you find. Mine has 56 hrs on it. I'm curious what mine will look like at 90 hrs and what type of rebuild it will need. Your top end looks great though!
AJ565
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11/9/2020 7:30pm
Have any interest in making yours a 300?
I didn’t want to change it. I’m happy with the 250 for now. Buddy of mine is doing a 300 conversion so I’ll ride his and decide.
AJ565
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11/9/2020 7:31pm
YZed250 wrote:
Might be worth repacking the silencer, definitely check the linkage and swingarm pivots for grease/wear. Very impressed with how it's running! Seems like you've got it...
Might be worth repacking the silencer, definitely check the linkage and swingarm pivots for grease/wear.
Very impressed with how it's running! Seems like you've got it right in the design window (A:F, track conditions, maintenance, fuel). Nice job.
Way ahead of you. And thank you.
2
AJ565
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11/9/2020 7:32pm Edited Date/Time 11/9/2020 7:34pm
sandman768 wrote:
I just rode mine today ... it has about 90 hrs but I replaced the piston at 60 hrs. I run Dominator also at 40:1 with...
I just rode mine today ... it has about 90 hrs but I replaced the piston at 60 hrs. I run Dominator also at 40:1 with 25% leaded race gas / non E pump gas. My top end looked great as well. I checked stock reeds they were fine, still running them. Bought the carb jet block oring and replaced it but the stock oring was fine. My powervalves were functioning fine but had some minor carbon build up. I bought the Slavens complete top end kit with Vertex B piston. His piston ez circlips make life much easier, the standard Vertex clips are a Pita. My bike is used as a backup or do it all bike. I have raced MX on it, GNCC”s and woods... once the jetting is sorted, the bike has an answer for everything. Great bikes...
Agreed they are great bikes. My reeds looked brand new and had the gap everyone makes a big deal about, but runs great. I did upgrade though while it was apart. I bought the same kit and slapped it together. I had zero carbon build up on the power valves lucky.
AJ565
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11/9/2020 7:33pm
Are you going to split the cases and check tranny gears and crank? If you do, I'd like to see what you find. Mine has 56...
Are you going to split the cases and check tranny gears and crank? If you do, I'd like to see what you find. Mine has 56 hrs on it. I'm curious what mine will look like at 90 hrs and what type of rebuild it will need. Your top end looks great though!
No, I checked crank play and had zero play so I only did a top end rebuild.
AJ565
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11/9/2020 8:13pm Edited Date/Time 11/9/2020 8:33pm
Ok so the bike is done. Let’s run through all that went into the rebuild.

The engine was reassembled with a vertex B piston kit. I’ll do a compression test on it tomorrow as I wanted to break it in and get a broken in reading.


With the engine back together I upgraded to a Boyesen Rad Valve. The stock reeds looked to be in great shape other then the gap everyone complains about and obviously when the engine is running doesn’t affect anything.



The parts stock pile in all its goodness.


So here’s a rebuild list; repack the silencer, clean and grease bearings, suspension was sent out to be rebuilt, new Pro Circuit Works pipe, chain sliders and blocks replaced due to wear, frame guards, new grips, brake pads replaced, oil change in the steering damper switched to 15w40, Boyesen Rad Valve, new plastics, BNG with a 2004 Factory KTM vibe, and a new seat cover to finish things off. I’ve already replaced the rims, spokes, and wheel bearings a few weeks prior.

While the bike was apart I decided to test some sprockets. Ping mentioned something in his Ask Ping post about chain angles and freeing up the rear suspension. After a lot of research I found that really is a thing and it really does help. I also found Keefer talking about it some too. I was running 13/49 vs. the stock 13/50 for a little more pull in each gear. That put me at a 3.77 ratio. I wanted to pull 2nd and 3rd a few feet longer and I also wanted to run a 14t because of the research I did on the suspension and sprocket sizes so I went to a 14/52 and a 3.714 ratio. .056 ratio change isn’t very much, but maybe it will be enough to get over this triple at 3 palms cleaner in 3rd. 14/53 would have given me 3.79 so I would have lost some pull in each gear.

Anyways, here’s the finished product ready for a ride this weekend.



20
11/9/2020 11:34pm Edited Date/Time 11/9/2020 11:36pm
I see a lot of bikes that run Amsoil Dominator around here and most the top ends look like that after a lot of hours. Some well over a 100. Like yours, the pistons look almost new and the rings are the only thing out of spec. I was impressed enough to switch to it, myself.

Bike looks good, BTW.
AJ565
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San Antonio, TX US
11/10/2020 6:21am
I see a lot of bikes that run Amsoil Dominator around here and most the top ends look like that after a lot of hours. Some...
I see a lot of bikes that run Amsoil Dominator around here and most the top ends look like that after a lot of hours. Some well over a 100. Like yours, the pistons look almost new and the rings are the only thing out of spec. I was impressed enough to switch to it, myself.

Bike looks good, BTW.
Agreed on the Amsoil, very impressed with it as well. I measured the new rings when I put them in and had about the same gap, so I'm not sure what the deal is with that. I will do a compression test later today to get solid new piston numbers to track what I lose over time though.
Rickyisms
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11/10/2020 4:04pm
How do you keep the bolts rust free? My biggest fret with my KTMs is that the hardware always looks trashed after the season.
AJ565
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11/10/2020 5:29pm
Rickyisms wrote:
How do you keep the bolts rust free? My biggest fret with my KTMs is that the hardware always looks trashed after the season.
Lite coat of wd40 after I wash it unless I’m at work and then I blow the whole bike off with air.
KawiEd
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3
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11/10/2020
Location
WI US
11/10/2020 5:37pm
Bike looks like it turned out great. Can't complain about 90 hours on a top end. My last 250 smoker was a 16 husky tc250 and I ran Dominator with similar long lasting results.
1
sandman768
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Saratoga Springs, NY US
11/10/2020 6:27pm
Bike looks good👍 Please report back on your opinions with the 14-52 gearing, I too run the 13-49. I have heard the 14-52 works really good on the 450sfx,
AJ565
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11/10/2020 8:35pm
sandman768 wrote:
Bike looks good👍 Please report back on your opinions with the 14-52 gearing, I too run the 13-49. I have heard the 14-52 works really good...
Bike looks good👍 Please report back on your opinions with the 14-52 gearing, I too run the 13-49. I have heard the 14-52 works really good on the 450sfx,
Will do. I’m going riding on Sunday so I should have an idea then of how it feels.
AJ565
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11/11/2020 8:31pm
So the difference between a new piston, 50 hour piston, and 90 hour piston is 25 psi. That’s actually not as much of a loss as I thought it would be, but it is noticeable when kicking the bike over.

2
seth505
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SD, CA US
Fantasy
1271st
11/12/2020 9:02am Edited Date/Time 11/13/2020 12:16pm
Bike looks sick! Another 250sx here running Amsoil. I put in a Wossner piston/top end rebuild at 50 hours and your internals and piston crown look very similar to mine when I opened it up.

ps- my top ring end gap was right at the limit and my bottom ring was still in spec.
3
YZed250
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11/13/2020 10:24am Edited Date/Time 11/13/2020 10:27am
As I said, you are right in the design window, and taking good care to see such a small drop in comp @ ~100hrs interval.
This piston replacement interval should be adjusted to compensate for dirty intake/poor fuel/lesser oil/detonation etc. But for you, keep on doing what you're doing!
AJ565
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2080
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San Antonio, TX US
11/15/2020 4:54pm
sandman768 wrote:
Bike looks good👍 Please report back on your opinions with the 14-52 gearing, I too run the 13-49. I have heard the 14-52 works really good...
Bike looks good👍 Please report back on your opinions with the 14-52 gearing, I too run the 13-49. I have heard the 14-52 works really good on the 450sfx,
Order the 14/52 and a chain, you’ll like it. I don’t really know how to describe the feeling other then it feels like it’s under sprung because the rear is free of binding or sticking. The fender shows it’s not under sprung though. Obviously you don’t notice it when off the power going into a turn, but out of a turn the rear felt more stable and better connected to the ground. It also felt that way on the 4th gear high speed sweeper and had no hopping or sideways bucking like it has before off bumps. It’s literally like the bike is floating under you.
2
11/18/2020 11:47am
AJ565 wrote:
The bike has 90 hours on it now. This past weekend the pipe cracked on me so I decided since I had to replace it I...
The bike has 90 hours on it now. This past weekend the pipe cracked on me so I decided since I had to replace it I might as well tear it down for a rebuild. That’s 90 hours on the stock top end for those of you who haven’t seen me mention it before in other threads that I haven’t cracked it open yet.







After an hour this is where I’m at.


I did a compression test before pulling the engine. I’m still at 200psi which is exactly the same as I tested at 50 hours.



Then I pulled the cylinder off to see what the piston and cylinder looked like. I’d say running amsoil dominator at 55:1 has been the best oil for this engine for sure. No scoring, scuffs, wear marks or heavy build up. Inside the pipe is also very clean and no scaling or build up. The ring gap measured .53mm for the top ring and .45mm for the bottom ring and spec. is .40mm, but that’s at 20mm down and I measured about 7mm down so I’ll have to recheck it tomorrow. For being out of spec. the bike sure did run amazing.










Plans for the rebuild; new grapics, plastics, pipe, repack the silencer, Boyesen rad valve, top end rebuild, suspension rebuild, grips, grease, replace wear parts.

Done so far; replaced the wheels with DID dirt stars and stainless steel spokes, front and rear SKF wheel bearings.
hi, sorry in advance for my poor english I’m French, i have a 250 tc 2018, i only drive in sand, at sea level (enduropale du touquet on youtube) what are your carb tuning suggestions for these conditions. thanks in advance
11/18/2020 6:13pm
AJ565 wrote:
The bike has 90 hours on it now. This past weekend the pipe cracked on me so I decided since I had to replace it I...
The bike has 90 hours on it now. This past weekend the pipe cracked on me so I decided since I had to replace it I might as well tear it down for a rebuild. That’s 90 hours on the stock top end for those of you who haven’t seen me mention it before in other threads that I haven’t cracked it open yet.







After an hour this is where I’m at.


I did a compression test before pulling the engine. I’m still at 200psi which is exactly the same as I tested at 50 hours.



Then I pulled the cylinder off to see what the piston and cylinder looked like. I’d say running amsoil dominator at 55:1 has been the best oil for this engine for sure. No scoring, scuffs, wear marks or heavy build up. Inside the pipe is also very clean and no scaling or build up. The ring gap measured .53mm for the top ring and .45mm for the bottom ring and spec. is .40mm, but that’s at 20mm down and I measured about 7mm down so I’ll have to recheck it tomorrow. For being out of spec. the bike sure did run amazing.










Plans for the rebuild; new grapics, plastics, pipe, repack the silencer, Boyesen rad valve, top end rebuild, suspension rebuild, grips, grease, replace wear parts.

Done so far; replaced the wheels with DID dirt stars and stainless steel spokes, front and rear SKF wheel bearings.
hi, sorry in advance for my poor english I’m French, i have a 250 tc 2018, i only drive in sand, at sea level (enduropale du...
hi, sorry in advance for my poor english I’m French, i have a 250 tc 2018, i only drive in sand, at sea level (enduropale du touquet on youtube) what are your carb tuning suggestions for these conditions. thanks in advance
here is a huge thread for jetting these bikes. they seem to have it tuned very well.

https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Tech-Help-Race-Shop,42/17-TC250-Jetting-…
AJ565
Posts
2080
Joined
3/12/2012
Location
San Antonio, TX US
11/18/2020 7:26pm Edited Date/Time 11/18/2020 7:27pm
AJ565 wrote:
The bike has 90 hours on it now. This past weekend the pipe cracked on me so I decided since I had to replace it I...
The bike has 90 hours on it now. This past weekend the pipe cracked on me so I decided since I had to replace it I might as well tear it down for a rebuild. That’s 90 hours on the stock top end for those of you who haven’t seen me mention it before in other threads that I haven’t cracked it open yet.







After an hour this is where I’m at.


I did a compression test before pulling the engine. I’m still at 200psi which is exactly the same as I tested at 50 hours.



Then I pulled the cylinder off to see what the piston and cylinder looked like. I’d say running amsoil dominator at 55:1 has been the best oil for this engine for sure. No scoring, scuffs, wear marks or heavy build up. Inside the pipe is also very clean and no scaling or build up. The ring gap measured .53mm for the top ring and .45mm for the bottom ring and spec. is .40mm, but that’s at 20mm down and I measured about 7mm down so I’ll have to recheck it tomorrow. For being out of spec. the bike sure did run amazing.










Plans for the rebuild; new grapics, plastics, pipe, repack the silencer, Boyesen rad valve, top end rebuild, suspension rebuild, grips, grease, replace wear parts.

Done so far; replaced the wheels with DID dirt stars and stainless steel spokes, front and rear SKF wheel bearings.
hi, sorry in advance for my poor english I’m French, i have a 250 tc 2018, i only drive in sand, at sea level (enduropale du...
hi, sorry in advance for my poor english I’m French, i have a 250 tc 2018, i only drive in sand, at sea level (enduropale du touquet on youtube) what are your carb tuning suggestions for these conditions. thanks in advance
here is a huge thread for jetting these bikes. they seem to have it tuned very well.

https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Tech-Help-Race-Shop,42/17-TC250-Jetting-…
This. I’ve been riding in sand the last few months and it’s still been great with the jetting in that thread.
rjg
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434
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9/27/2016
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CA
11/19/2020 11:51am
That one of the nicest home garages I've ever seen. Tiled floors woh.
AJ565
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2080
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San Antonio, TX US
11/20/2020 6:10am
rjg wrote:
That one of the nicest home garages I've ever seen. Tiled floors woh.
Lol I wish. I live in an apartment so all my tools are at work and they let me do cool shit here.
1
bdavis354
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3/22/2022
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Wilmington, NC US
3/23/2022 5:51pm
Rickyisms wrote:
How do you keep the bolts rust free? My biggest fret with my KTMs is that the hardware always looks trashed after the season.
AJ565 wrote:
Lite coat of wd40 after I wash it unless I’m at work and then I blow the whole bike off with air.
I you ever tear the whole motor down take the bolts and tumble them is walnut media. I use a brass tumbler that you can by for reloading bullet brass. Works amazing and comes out almost like you vapor blasted them :o)
2

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