2017 "SXC" 250

Edited Date/Time 2/27/2017 1:09pm
Hello all, A few years ago i Built a SXC out of a 14' SX 250. I'll explain. Instead of just buying a XC 250. A SX 250 is roughly $900 cheaper, Hits harder, Lighter, I don't have a need for the 6th gear or kickstand anyways. Strictly a Harescramble/GNCC/Moto Hybrid weapon in the calendar year.

With that said the 14' sxc worked excellent under any condition i put i though. Fast forward, I landed a new job a dealer and pulled the trigger on a 17"

With this build being ready for race season i only have a few more odds and ends and testing to do. Here is what i have so far. Some of these mods are woods oriented but can definitely work for moto setups as well.


The airbox on the new bikes are very restricted compared to the 11-16 chassis. i cut the inner tab off the filter cover on the left side right away, How are these poor things supposed to get any air?! no wonder people think the mikuni isn't as good as the Keihin

Then i went ahead and looked at the Battery tray.



What a mess of plastic. I get it, The four strokes and the two strokes with e-start need the tray. I don't so i cut it out.

Much more room for hands to fit the filter and should have better airflow.
I left the little eavestrough for any water from creek crossings or mudholes to drip pass the filter instead of landing right on it.


Pictured below is my AER 48mm box. This fits within my toolbox i take to the races. I pieced this together fairly cheap and keeps the expensive pump from getting ruined from rolling around in a tool box. I have my 25t torx for the bleeders, metric tape measure, and a standard screwdriver to adjust the rebound clicker on the bottom. Not pictured is my Enduro engineering preload ring wrench.



A few things i've learned from the 14 to the 17. The airboot rubber on the 17 is much stiffer and frankly a PITA to change jetting and removing and refitting the carb. Patience is key and i found loosing the top torx screws and completely removing the bottoms and silencer and flipping the entire subframe upside down is the easiest way to fit the carb.
I found after the airbox mods i raised the clip posistion up one and i feel the jetting is pretty close. I had it dialed in on the 14 with the NECJ needle. The 17' was a little fat in the middle but i found just moving the clip up solved that issue. I want to find out what other guys are using for needles.
I think im going to give up and convert the AER to a coil spring. I found after riding for an hour the pressure increases 1-3psi I cannot have that happen. Our races are 2 or 3 hours. This air fork might work for 20 min motos but none of the top offroad guys are using any form of airfork for this very reason.

Thanks for viewing so far.
More pictures, testing comments and parts coming soon.
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ktm212
Posts
608
Joined
11/30/2009
Location
Lafayette, NJ US
3/1/2017 8:02am
Nothing wrong with the AER forks. I have been running them offroad since I got the bike in august, the VERY small change in air pressure isn't noticeable, any fork is going to change over the course of 2-3 hours between oil getting hot and dampening fading and building air pressure, do yourself a favor and try the air forks, I have A kit forks from my old bikes and prefer the AERs.
RockyRider
Posts
308
Joined
3/10/2016
Location
Nor Cal, CA US
Fantasy
3372nd
3/2/2017 12:50pm
Love it, I totally agree with you on that the SX's with a little work are better than XC's for trail riding (my 13 250SX was the best bike I've ever owned). With the carbs out here, we've been milling down to the two float stops in the bowl 3mm and bending the needle tab so the bike can get more fuel. Seems to be working really well and is actually increasing mileage. I'm with you again on the bias for converting the AER's to spring. Seen two sets where the inner quad ring seal fails and causes the fork to collapse (both offroad riders, one pro and one B level riders).
3/17/2017 9:34pm Edited Date/Time 3/17/2017 9:35pm

Fitted my older (2013) PHDS mounts on the 17' Triple clamp. Now i can do away with the Japanese style rubber cone style clamps that twist in a tipover. Billet racing Products LLC makes the fix. BRP# BMI-1210 incase anyone is interested.

The Shop

3/20/2017 4:57pm Edited Date/Time 3/20/2017 5:03pm
Heres an update, Renthal 999's, Motion pro vortex throttle and titan tube. Oem yamaha yz 250 throttle cable. Acerbis handguards, works connection oil fill plug ive had for years. New numbers from 180. Lastly a r304 silencer from PC
ebers
Posts
903
Joined
8/21/2008
Location
western, NY US
Fantasy
174th
3/27/2017 3:17am
Looks good! Simple and with a purpose.
navalseabee
Posts
1086
Joined
5/5/2011
Location
Virginia Beach, VA US
3/27/2017 10:33am
I've noticed average around a 2psi increase in my AER through the 2 hour harescrambles i've been running on my XC. I usually just initially set the forks 2psi under where I want the final PSI to be. Not ideal but its been working for me.
5/31/2017 7:55pm Edited Date/Time 5/31/2017 7:57pm
Another few updates so while i have been playing with jetting. I had my 14 set up very well with the Kehin Carb using the NECJ needle out of a rm 250. I found the bike would have a lean ping after not having a load on the motor. In layman's terms, after a long straight or just chopping the throttle it would ping like crazy almost as if the petcock was switched off. I have been reading about the gap in the reeds and decided to pull mine apart.
Here is what i found.

I tried flipping the pedals with no luck, it just reversed the gap to the other side of the reed cage,
I cannot be bothered to sand it down for $140 complete reed assembly.
so i ordered the new vforce4R

No gaps, Happy camper.
Also nice that the second gasket is no longer needed.
Here are the two cages, stock on the left

Runs excellent now. Im currently stock jetting aside from a 450 main Jet. Much better throttle response and control, does exactly what the box says haha Smoother, stronger, Cleaner power.


Then i went ahead with a revalve from Racetech set up for A level Harescrambles, i had a great experience with this kit in the CC48 fork on the 14'. This was no different, very plush, much more control and absolutely no deflection or head shake on square edge chop, roots and rocks. the stock set up was good but this gold valve really knocks it out of the park. Much more confident pushing myself now. Call me a hypocrite but Im happy with the AER48 air offroad, ill give it a chance until it the quad ring fails. The shock has a thrust bearing and X-trig adjuster installed. both work excellent, using a cordless drill with a 8mm to set sag is super cool.


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