Posts
217
Joined
1/10/2013
Location
Niagara Falls
CA
Edited Date/Time
2/27/2017 1:09pm
Hello all, A few years ago i Built a SXC out of a 14' SX 250. I'll explain. Instead of just buying a XC 250. A SX 250 is roughly $900 cheaper, Hits harder, Lighter, I don't have a need for the 6th gear or kickstand anyways. Strictly a Harescramble/GNCC/Moto Hybrid weapon in the calendar year.
With that said the 14' sxc worked excellent under any condition i put i though. Fast forward, I landed a new job a dealer and pulled the trigger on a 17"
With this build being ready for race season i only have a few more odds and ends and testing to do. Here is what i have so far. Some of these mods are woods oriented but can definitely work for moto setups as well.
The airbox on the new bikes are very restricted compared to the 11-16 chassis. i cut the inner tab off the filter cover on the left side right away, How are these poor things supposed to get any air?! no wonder people think the mikuni isn't as good as the Keihin
Then i went ahead and looked at the Battery tray.
What a mess of plastic. I get it, The four strokes and the two strokes with e-start need the tray. I don't so i cut it out.
Much more room for hands to fit the filter and should have better airflow.
I left the little eavestrough for any water from creek crossings or mudholes to drip pass the filter instead of landing right on it.
Pictured below is my AER 48mm box. This fits within my toolbox i take to the races. I pieced this together fairly cheap and keeps the expensive pump from getting ruined from rolling around in a tool box. I have my 25t torx for the bleeders, metric tape measure, and a standard screwdriver to adjust the rebound clicker on the bottom. Not pictured is my Enduro engineering preload ring wrench.
A few things i've learned from the 14 to the 17. The airboot rubber on the 17 is much stiffer and frankly a PITA to change jetting and removing and refitting the carb. Patience is key and i found loosing the top torx screws and completely removing the bottoms and silencer and flipping the entire subframe upside down is the easiest way to fit the carb.
I found after the airbox mods i raised the clip posistion up one and i feel the jetting is pretty close. I had it dialed in on the 14 with the NECJ needle. The 17' was a little fat in the middle but i found just moving the clip up solved that issue. I want to find out what other guys are using for needles.
I think im going to give up and convert the AER to a coil spring. I found after riding for an hour the pressure increases 1-3psi I cannot have that happen. Our races are 2 or 3 hours. This air fork might work for 20 min motos but none of the top offroad guys are using any form of airfork for this very reason.
Thanks for viewing so far.
More pictures, testing comments and parts coming soon.
With that said the 14' sxc worked excellent under any condition i put i though. Fast forward, I landed a new job a dealer and pulled the trigger on a 17"
With this build being ready for race season i only have a few more odds and ends and testing to do. Here is what i have so far. Some of these mods are woods oriented but can definitely work for moto setups as well.
The airbox on the new bikes are very restricted compared to the 11-16 chassis. i cut the inner tab off the filter cover on the left side right away, How are these poor things supposed to get any air?! no wonder people think the mikuni isn't as good as the Keihin
Then i went ahead and looked at the Battery tray.
What a mess of plastic. I get it, The four strokes and the two strokes with e-start need the tray. I don't so i cut it out.
Much more room for hands to fit the filter and should have better airflow.
I left the little eavestrough for any water from creek crossings or mudholes to drip pass the filter instead of landing right on it.
Pictured below is my AER 48mm box. This fits within my toolbox i take to the races. I pieced this together fairly cheap and keeps the expensive pump from getting ruined from rolling around in a tool box. I have my 25t torx for the bleeders, metric tape measure, and a standard screwdriver to adjust the rebound clicker on the bottom. Not pictured is my Enduro engineering preload ring wrench.
A few things i've learned from the 14 to the 17. The airboot rubber on the 17 is much stiffer and frankly a PITA to change jetting and removing and refitting the carb. Patience is key and i found loosing the top torx screws and completely removing the bottoms and silencer and flipping the entire subframe upside down is the easiest way to fit the carb.
I found after the airbox mods i raised the clip posistion up one and i feel the jetting is pretty close. I had it dialed in on the 14 with the NECJ needle. The 17' was a little fat in the middle but i found just moving the clip up solved that issue. I want to find out what other guys are using for needles.
I think im going to give up and convert the AER to a coil spring. I found after riding for an hour the pressure increases 1-3psi I cannot have that happen. Our races are 2 or 3 hours. This air fork might work for 20 min motos but none of the top offroad guys are using any form of airfork for this very reason.
Thanks for viewing so far.
More pictures, testing comments and parts coming soon.
Fitted my older (2013) PHDS mounts on the 17' Triple clamp. Now i can do away with the Japanese style rubber cone style clamps that twist in a tipover. Billet racing Products LLC makes the fix. BRP# BMI-1210 incase anyone is interested.
The Shop
Here is what i found.
I tried flipping the pedals with no luck, it just reversed the gap to the other side of the reed cage,
I cannot be bothered to sand it down for $140 complete reed assembly.
so i ordered the new vforce4R
No gaps, Happy camper.
Also nice that the second gasket is no longer needed.
Here are the two cages, stock on the left
Runs excellent now. Im currently stock jetting aside from a 450 main Jet. Much better throttle response and control, does exactly what the box says haha Smoother, stronger, Cleaner power.
Then i went ahead with a revalve from Racetech set up for A level Harescrambles, i had a great experience with this kit in the CC48 fork on the 14'. This was no different, very plush, much more control and absolutely no deflection or head shake on square edge chop, roots and rocks. the stock set up was good but this gold valve really knocks it out of the park. Much more confident pushing myself now. Call me a hypocrite but Im happy with the AER48 air offroad, ill give it a chance until it the quad ring fails. The shock has a thrust bearing and X-trig adjuster installed. both work excellent, using a cordless drill with a 8mm to set sag is super cool.
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