Posts: 11
Joined: 1/21/2018
Location: Salisbury, NC USA
I’ve been on the forum for a while now but this is my first post. I used to ride minis then sold out of the sport since I didn’t have anywhere to ride. I started getting invited to ride with people all the time and was tired of borrowing peoples bikes, so after I got my license I went and picked up a new to me bike! 
I’m not sure where I’m going with this build, but any help/pointers are greatly appreciated!
Posts: 695
Joined: 10/29/2007
Location: Yorba Linda, CA USA
Congrats! 2005 is actually a great year for those 250F's: best carb, single-side exhaust, lots of parts availability...
However, be sure to get that brake line routed up proper and throw a rear chain guide on that thing asap! I'd go through the carb as well before riding; never know what you'll find with today's gas and previous owners. If difficult to start after fresh gas and carb clean, best to check the valves straightaway - Any dirt bypassing the air filter and they weren't happy. I'm partial to Factory Honda look from 08', but you've got PLENTY of design options once she's mechanically dialed. Enjoy 
Posts: 9031
Joined: 7/6/2015
Location: Santa Clarita, CA USA
crc245 wrote:
Congrats! 2005 is actually a great year for those 250F's: best carb, single-side exhaust, lots of parts availability...
However, be sure to get that brake line routed up proper and throw a rear chain guide on that thing asap! I'd go through the carb as well before riding; never know what you'll find with today's gas and previous owners. If difficult to start after fresh gas and carb clean, best to check the valves straightaway - Any dirt bypassing the air filter and they weren't happy. I'm partial to Factory Honda look from 08', but you've got PLENTY of design options once she's mechanically dialed. Enjoy
Agree! 04 and 05 were probably my favorite CRF250's that I've ever ridden.
2017 RMZ450
2005 YZ250-sold :,(
1998 YZ250
2005 KX250F
80% of the time it works every time
IG @hammerfamily_4 & @2HRacing
Thanks to : Factory Effex, N2Dirt, Acerbis, DT1, Fasthouse, Matix, FMF, ASV, 100% & Mika Metals
Posts: 2704
Joined: 4/1/2008
Location: Somewhere in..., GA USA
Congrats on your new bike. I just refreshed a 04' model that I've had for several years (like, since 04). First things first, you're going to want to see what kind of shape the top-end is in. Those early Honda 250Fs were valve eaters. Check your valve clearance, and shim back into spec if needed. Do you know the history of the bike, as in, last time the valves were addressed?
And, as crc245 said, pull the carb off and clean or replace the jets. I prefer to just replace them, they're not expensive. Other than that, I'd regrease all of the pivots and head tube. Here's the 04' I just did, nothing fancy, just got her cleaned up and ready to sell. I put a new head/valves on this one.
Posts: 11
Joined: 1/21/2018
Location: Salisbury, NC USA
Well, after getting to ride the bike a little, I had a cct failure. Luckily I was able to kill the bike before any major damage occurred. 
I luckily Didn’t have any permanent tensioner damage, so after lubing up the stock one I got it working again. There is a few reasons I didn’t replace it. Apparently these Honda auto tensioners are known to go bad, so the way I see it is why pay $50 for a part that is going to fail. But I read up on the manual tensioners. A Tokyo mods tensioner is $100 and I’m sure it would solve my immediate problems, but I’m skeptical of the manual tensioners. The reason being is your cam chain is usually tighter on certain strokes, and looser on others. I feel like if I had a manual tensioner it would accelerate wear on my timing chain. Now, I’m not sure if that is true or not, so any insight is appreciated.
Posts: 1107
Joined: 4/1/2008
Location: Readstown, WI USA
Buy the manual one. I'd rather go through chains, which are relatively cheap compared to a complete motor.
That being said, if you adjust it like it instructs, it shouldn't prematurely wear the chain.
Posts: 741
Joined: 7/30/2013
Location: Louisburg, KS USA
Edited Date/Time:
Corbin Bolick wrote:
Well, after getting to ride the bike a little, I had a cct failure. Luckily I was able to kill the bike before any major damage occurred.
I luckily Didn’t have any permanent tensioner damage, so after lubing up the stock one I got it working again. There is a few reasons I didn’t replace it. Apparently these Honda auto tensioners are known to go bad, so the way I see it is why pay $50 for a part that is going to fail. But I read up on the manual tensioners. A Tokyo mods tensioner is $100 and I’m sure it would solve my immediate problems, but I’m skeptical of the manual tensioners. The reason being is your cam chain is usually tighter on certain strokes, and looser on others. I feel like if I had a manual tensioner it would accelerate wear on my timing chain. Now, I’m not sure if that is true or not, so any insight is appreciated.
If adjusted correctly It will not make the chain wear any faster. The Honda uses a spring loaded tensioner so I can see your concern. Other 250f's like the Kawasaki use a click type tensioner it cannot retract like your Honda tensioner unless removed. I had a Tokyo mods tensioner on my TRX450R they are really high quality and easy to setup.
Posts: 11
Joined: 1/21/2018
Location: Salisbury, NC USA
Edited Date/Time:
So do y’all think I will be fine to run this tensioner for the time being and replace it with the manual when it fails, or replace it now and be done with it?
Posts: 3596
Joined: 4/1/2008
Location: Visalia, CA USA
If it failed once there is no way I'd chance it. Seems like playing Russian Roulette with a 1911.
Honda has used their auto tensioners in millions of engines, IMO they are fine. Just replace them when they get old.
Posts: 695
Joined: 10/29/2007
Location: Yorba Linda, CA USA
Matt Fisher wrote:
If it failed once there is no way I'd chance it. Seems like playing Russian Roulette with a 1911.
Honda has used their auto tensioners in millions of engines, IMO they are fine. Just replace them when they get old.
This.
I've replaced the cam chain tensioner twice (every other top-end) on my 2008 CRF450R. Currently runs like a champ with 200+ hours on it...
Posts: 11
Joined: 1/21/2018
Location: Salisbury, NC USA
Posts: 11
Joined: 1/21/2018
Location: Salisbury, NC USA
Posts: 83
Joined: 10/2/2017
Location: Harrison, TN USA
those bikes are hard on valves. i had an 07 model that i put all SS valves in and they never moved in 1 1/2 yrs of riding
Instagram @factoryfarley25
Posts: 76
Joined: 8/24/2017
Location: AUS
Edited Date/Time:
crc245 wrote:
Congrats! 2005 is actually a great year for those 250F's: best carb, single-side exhaust, lots of parts availability...
However, be sure to get that brake line routed up proper and throw a rear chain guide on that thing asap! I'd go through the carb as well before riding; never know what you'll find with today's gas and previous owners. If difficult to start after fresh gas and carb clean, best to check the valves straightaway - Any dirt bypassing the air filter and they weren't happy. I'm partial to Factory Honda look from 08', but you've got PLENTY of design options once she's mechanically dialed. Enjoy
Love these crfs. That's so clean, here's another 
I would replace it with another stock tensioner. Its been on there since the bike was new most likely.
Posts: 11
Joined: 1/21/2018
Location: Salisbury, NC USA
Whats everyone’s thoughts on cerakote? I’m thinking of rebuilding my suspension soon and would like to try cerakoting my fork tubes
Posts: 695
Joined: 10/29/2007
Location: Yorba Linda, CA USA
Corbin Bolick wrote:
Whats everyone’s thoughts on cerakote? I’m thinking of rebuilding my suspension soon and would like to try cerakoting my fork tubes
Hard Ano or Kashima works great on fork uppers, Cerakote - Not so sure. I'd save that for calipers, brake hangers, aluminum side covers (nothing Magnesium), hubs, triple clamps, etc. I don't have any insight into uppers, which is why I can't recommend yeah or nay; anyone else try this already?
Posts: 76
Joined: 8/24/2017
Location: AUS
Edited Date/Time:
Corbin Bolick wrote:
Whats everyone’s thoughts on cerakote? I’m thinking of rebuilding my suspension soon and would like to try cerakoting my fork tubes
crc245 wrote:
Hard Ano or Kashima works great on fork uppers, Cerakote - Not so sure. I'd save that for calipers, brake hangers, aluminum side covers (nothing Magnesium), hubs, triple clamps, etc. I don't have any insight into uppers, which is why I can't recommend yeah or nay; anyone else try this already?
On the money, ano/kashima isn't a paint like process like cerakote making it tougher. I recently got some upper tubes anodized gold for $80 aus plus 20 postage. Its pretty cheap here!
Posts: 2266
Joined: 8/31/2010
Location: GBR
crc245 wrote:
Congrats! 2005 is actually a great year for those 250F's: best carb, single-side exhaust, lots of parts availability...
However, be sure to get that brake line routed up proper and throw a rear chain guide on that thing asap! I'd go through the carb as well before riding; never know what you'll find with today's gas and previous owners. If difficult to start after fresh gas and carb clean, best to check the valves straightaway - Any dirt bypassing the air filter and they weren't happy. I'm partial to Factory Honda look from 08', but you've got PLENTY of design options once she's mechanically dialed. Enjoy
Stevehrc wrote:
Love these crfs. That's so clean, here's another
I would replace it with another stock tensioner. Its been on there since the bike was new most likely.
Best looking factory bikes ever in my opinion, I had an 04, 05, 06 and 13 crf250s. Loved the 05 but it did need looking after properly or it would have problems.
I no longer regret my username.
Posts: 11
Joined: 1/21/2018
Location: Salisbury, NC USA
Well I haven’t posted in a while cause the bike has been down. Honestly I’m over it and will probably delete this thread. It has gone the exact opposite direction of what I had planned.
