Posts
498
Joined
10/11/2016
Location
Elk Grove, CA
US
Edited Date/Time
1/8/2019 11:41am
Hey everybody I picked up this 98 YZ250 for a cool $500. The previous owner told me it needed the top end redone and a couple parts here and there. I wanted somthing I can work on during the winter. My plan is to get it running, clean it up really good, new plastics etc. Basically have it looking like it did in 98. Then eventually get some cool trick parts for it.
I’m taking the top end off and plan to ship it out to PowerSeal this week.
Bonus: Does anybody know why the P.O. would put a zip tie in the valve assembly? Maybe to act as a spacer or somthing? Lol
I’m taking the top end off and plan to ship it out to PowerSeal this week.
Bonus: Does anybody know why the P.O. would put a zip tie in the valve assembly? Maybe to act as a spacer or somthing? Lol
Also I noticed this small crack on the cylinder head. Does anybody know if this is going to a problem that needs fixing or is it not that big of a deal?
When I got the power valve out I noticed some scoring on it. Will this cause any major problems running the bike with it like that or does it need to be replaced? (Those things aren’t cheap lol)
The Shop
After removing the top end
Also noticed this big ole glob of what I assume is jb weld or something.
My focus has mainly shifted to my new 2017 model. Due to the constant oil changes shes keeping me pretty busy.
Got some parts in the mail. I was able to snag the turbine core for $20 off eBay. Just needs some elbow grease.
Also got my cylinder back from Powerseal USA. It looks pretty great and the nikaseal(sp?) is silky smooth.
At first I thought it was just cleaned and blasted but upon further inspection it looks as if it’s been spray painted. Does anybody know if this is what they do? I actually plan on calling them tomarrow and finding out because If it is painted I want to know the name and color so I can match the rest of the engine.
The cylinder looks awesome! How much longer until She's all back together?
I’ve taken out the flywheel and stator.
And I removed the compound the P.O. used to seal up the chunk of case the chain took out. My uncle is a welder by trade so I’ll see what he can do. The bike shifted fine before.
Chunk missing
First off for fathers day my wife surprised me with a HF tool cart and shop cart. I've been amassing plenty of specialty tools during this rebuild and had nowhere to put them. I also had all the parts spread around on my garage floor.
I got the bike down to the bare frame
I then washed it, hit it with airplane paint stripper, the took a wire wheel to the whole frame.
As you can see I built a little spray booth inside of my garage. After stripping the entire frame I hit it with 3 coats a self etching primer, a whole can of Duplicolor Dark Blue Metallic and half a can of clear (All light coats of coarse)
I went with rattlecan over powder coat because I'm a cheap mofo.
I also split the cases cleaned everything inside. Replaced the bearings and seals and got the hole in the left case welded over.
So that's basically everything so far. I got the crank and transmission back in but before I seal the cases I wanted to run something by you guys.
The manual says to make sure the transmission is in neutral before putting the cases back together. How does neutral look in the shift drum. Everything shifts smoothly. If I have the two left side forks hitting their stops is that first gear?
Basically how should the transmission be aligned for it to be in neutral?
Pit Row
As for the trans, I usually install the trans in the stator side case. Then you can install the star gear thing to the shift drum and spin it around to make sure your gears are all engaging correcting (check the speed of the output shaft to make sure it spins slower through each gear). And the star gear thing has a noticable detent for neutral.
It looks like you pulled the crank into the clutch side already, so you could still install the star gear thing, but you'll be looking at it upside down on the bench. Generally, I've viewed transmissions as a puzzle. It goes together easily, and almost always goes together only one way. If you are fighting something, then something is probably not installed right.
Right now I have everything in on the other side as per the manuals instructions.
All of the gears and forks shift smoothly and move as they should I just dont know where they should be lined up to be in neutral.
I took a bunch of pictures on my old phone. I gotta look for it and charge it because I know i took pics of how the transmission looked.
I got the motor back together and in the frame
Then I got to work on the swingarm, taking the old decals off and using a scotchbrite pad to bring some shine back to it
Got some new decals for the swingarm and got it back on the bike
The old steel subframe was still good but I wanted an aluminum one. I was able to snag this one off ebay for $25 shipped. I stripped the old paint off and hit it with some silver
I know I originally said it was going to be a budget build but with everything looking clean and new those old bent up rads looks out of place so I had to get some new ones
I shouldve taken a picture of the pipe before I cleaned it up and hit it with WD40 and a scotchbrite
I also cleaned up the triples and bars, got a new barpad, grips, and hoses
I bought a cheap gripper off ebay and replaced the old motoworld one.
Picked up some new shrouds and evo graphics while I was at it
Its starting to actually look like a bike now. Next I plan on cleaning up the carb and replacing the linkage bearings. Still needs a chain, sprockets, rims, etc. but those will all come in time.
"I know I originally said it was going to be a budget build but with everything looking clean and new those old bent up rads looks out of place so I had to get some new ones"
HAHAHHAHAHHAHHAAHAHA
Holy hell, if we all haven't said that before!!! Famous last words - "I'm gonna keep this simple...."
Excellent job bringing it back?
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