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Only $10 for all 2024 SX, MX, and SMX series (regularly $30).
This was on back order for about 3 weeks, started thinking it wasn't going to show.
New water pump and rebuilt all seals and bearings.
Couple minor items.
The Shop
Also to your son, thanks for his service.
Original parts that came out.
Seal from the air screw and the tool I used to get it out. It was hard as a rock make sure to ck on these old carbs.
Mostly all new except float and seat.
All done, these carbs are so simple to build.
Did you weigh that piston by any chance?
Good tip on the airscrew oring. I'll check mine as I did a rebuild but don't recall the condition if it. People say the pj carb doesn't idle, how did you go with it? I'm boring mine to 38mm.
When I first built the carb the air screw o'ring didn't even come out it was stuck in there, that thing is tiny. Once out you can see the condition it was in.
I had to order the whole air screw set to get the o'ring because I could not just find the o'ring by itself. It idled ok at first but was not consistent, so I ordered the choke/idle screw assembly, then it was perfect.
Thanks for the comments.
This was probably my favorite and most useful one. Worked great on the clutch basket, primary gear and the flywheel.
Came with the spline drive for my Excel spokes.
Used this and a propane torch for the bearings. When putting the bearings in the dry ice they almost made a screaming noise, so weird.
Filled up with all fluids and fresh gas mixed with 927. When it fired right away something didn't feel right. Kinda hard to explain but it had a drag to it, it wasn't free wheeling so to speak. Wouldn't idle but would rev up but it was struggling,fighting itself. Just felt really tight, but figured everything was brand new and thought it would loosen up.
After a few minutes and a couple of starts I rode it down the street to a friends house hoping it was going to loosen up but it felt like it seized. Just bogging down and I shut it off, went back got my truck and brought it home.Later that day the guy that has been helping me build it came over and it started up but still acting the same way.
Put in a call to my local race shop I have been using for years and talked to the top guy there. He said only 2 things would do what I was describing, crank not centered or something with the clutch. What sucks is some time during this whole deal he told me to make sure I centered the crank with feeler gauges.
Here's why, I had him look at my cases and this had happened at some point of this bikes life. Crank rubbing on the case. These pictures are after it blew up but these marks were there before this time. He said every bottom end they build they break out the feeler gauges to ck.
Here's the bottom view and you can see the stater side has a larger gap. Feeler gauge showed 23 thousands larger gap on that side.
I had to take the clutch apart to be able to knock the crank over 11.5 thousands. Clutch was put together correct so that was good. It took a couple hard knocks with a small sledge and a 2x6 but came out perfect.
Pit Row
I rebuilt the power valve with what new parts were available, new bearing, seals and a couple of holders. Cleaned the carbon off with oven cleaner.
Think I'm going to order that little clip it seems a little loose.
Added some grip tape.
Guess it was this guy.
Need some fluids.
https://youtu.be/1msIJHRypTQ
Post a reply to: 1998 CR125 (One of the Most hated 125's) The Re Rebuild/ First start/Video Added