Posts
848
Joined
8/10/2011
Location
N., TX
US
Edited Date/Time
3/26/2018 8:31pm
Day zero - First build: One dirty as hell unmolested ‘94 CR250R. Only ugly I can find so far is a broken steering stop on the bottom clamp. Previous owner said he did the top end and the bore is stock. Everything appears solid. Various incorrect bolts, leaky fork seals, spooge out the exhaust, etc.
Questions/advice:
I can get a bottom triple easily, but from some reading understand in ‘95 they increased the width of the forks with new clamps. Can anyone verify? If I went with the ‘95 and up I assume just wheel spacers needed? If so how far into modern years spacers would work? If I stick with what is for ‘94 how far back fits? 1990?
Ideally I would like to go aftermarket clamps of the era, at a minimum top clamp that will allow bars more forward. Recommendations?
Can these forks and shock be made decent? What spring rates would you recommend for 185lb rider (no gear)?
Questions/advice:
I can get a bottom triple easily, but from some reading understand in ‘95 they increased the width of the forks with new clamps. Can anyone verify? If I went with the ‘95 and up I assume just wheel spacers needed? If so how far into modern years spacers would work? If I stick with what is for ‘94 how far back fits? 1990?
Ideally I would like to go aftermarket clamps of the era, at a minimum top clamp that will allow bars more forward. Recommendations?
Can these forks and shock be made decent? What spring rates would you recommend for 185lb rider (no gear)?
92-93 I think are the same.
94 they went to the shorter upper tubes with the “vegetable strainers” at the bottom to allow them to use the previous fork guards without catching.
95-96 they switched to KYB
97 they went to twin chamber Showa
All that said, you might find that there is still the same tune diameter in there somewhere, but I also recall a pretty steady +1 mm diameter change each year for awhile.
Emig racing make a set of clamps that are replica of Factory team Honda 1996 clamps that use 04-08 crf450r forks
When the site lets me upload photos I will.
This site helped me identify parts when I was building my 93 and 94. Gives you specs and parts interchangeability
The Shop
But first that applied clamp I ordered off eBay. Will be removing the anodizing once I confirm it fits. It should fit ‘94 125/250 according to Applied website. I have another bottom coming that has two good stops.
Some pics of all the grime, the guy really loved grease, so not finding much rust, and it’s a TX bike. Look at this airbox!!
Took me hours to scrape it using WD-40 and plastic putty knives. After pic. No rust. Notice the metal
seat stay is missing. Will fabricate and weld one in the future.
Couple issues with the exhaust hitting front fender and heat at the point where the silencer junction is has warped the airbox. Can see from inside airbox and it’s developed a small crack in the box. There’s no air gap there, is this a typical problem? The fender issue means clearly it’s bent.
The tank has been painted so It will need a complete makeover. Did a test area, paint comes off easily.
The wheels cleaned up nicely. Can see some of the original anodizing on bolt heads. I’m missing one rear spoke. It’s an 18” wheel. Wish I could get just one! Debating about going to a 19” wheel. Thoughts?
Next thing to do is take the carb apart, sure the Pilot is clogged. I’m not too keen on riding this bike until I’ve got the suspension rebuilt, at least the forks. I want to get the bike in decent ridable condition to shake it down before I worry about cosmetics.
https://www.buchananspokes.com/
Other good news is the cases look great, no evidence of any fatigue cracks. Also the swingarm, fully inspected and can’t find any cracks.
The bad: Ugh, this is ugly, but have a buddy that tells me this is nothing and will Tig weld this up.
It’s strange because the hole is on the side!? There is no rust on the inside of the tube. The drain hole is clear. Maybe a rock or gouge from a skid plate bolt, something. I wasn’t ready for a frame off, so may plug it temporarily until I can get the rest of the bike mechanically sound and ride it to see if I want to invest more.
First load of parts.
BTW on my missing spoke issue...I was chasing around all over and the advice about Buchanan is good, need to give some detail on the spoke design and they will make a single spoke. Also a guy “bikebuzzard” on eBay that has used parts. BUT even better... and I feel like an idiot, when I was going to OEM parts on RM the default was a set of 16 for inner or outer (A or
Tore down the forks. The oil was NASTY! No damage. New seals and bushings will go in. I found out the spring rate by calling race tech. It wasn’t their spring, but he had me measure the coil diameter, spring diameter (both larger and tapered section), length, and count coils, ... .44 KG/MM. Rear is a 5.7. Stoked on that news, both firmer than stock and right what I need. These forks were worked by Lucky Nichols, I’ve got a call to see if he has notes on oil height. If not will go with STD.
If you look at the photo I circled the protector guides. They are in decent shape, but don’t think new are available...anyone know where to find some new or a different aftermarket solution?
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