1994 CR250R

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2/27/2018 10:56 AM

Day zero - First build: One dirty as hell unmolested ‘94 CR250R. Only ugly I can find so far is a broken steering stop on the bottom clamp. Previous owner said he did the top end and the bore is stock. Everything appears solid. Various incorrect bolts, leaky fork seals, spooge out the exhaust, etc.
Questions/advice:
I can get a bottom triple easily, but from some reading understand in ‘95 they increased the width of the forks with new clamps. Can anyone verify? If I went with the ‘95 and up I assume just wheel spacers needed? If so how far into modern years spacers would work? If I stick with what is for ‘94 how far back fits? 1990?
Ideally I would like to go aftermarket clamps of the era, at a minimum top clamp that will allow bars more forward. Recommendations?
Can these forks and shock be made decent? What spring rates would you recommend for 185lb rider (no gear)?
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2/27/2018 12:57 PM

I’m not sure of exact dimensions but I think it’s unlikely any other years will fit (possibly 92-93, hopefully someone will chime in). The reason is that unlike the long run of the same (externally) forks from 02-07, etc, back then Honda was going bonkers with tube changes-bigger/smaller, more flex/less flex, etc.
92-93 I think are the same.
94 they went to the shorter upper tubes with the “vegetable strainers” at the bottom to allow them to use the previous fork guards without catching.
95-96 they switched to KYB
97 they went to twin chamber Showa

All that said, you might find that there is still the same tune diameter in there somewhere, but I also recall a pretty steady +1 mm diameter change each year for awhile.

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2/27/2018 4:35 PM

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Emig racing make a set of clamps that are replica of Factory team Honda 1996 clamps that use 04-08 crf450r forks
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2/28/2018 10:05 AM
Edited Date/Time: 2/28/2018 10:05 AM

Day 1: Can’t upload photos for some reason, I’ll try later. Thanks for info. I’ve decided to stick with stock forks for now and found a used stock lower and an upper applied clamp ($20 and $50) ebay. Applied shows a P/N for the ‘94 125/250. The anodizing is bad, but want it plain aluminum anyway. Looks like the oven cleaner stripping method is pretty common. Should I clear coat?
When the site lets me upload photos I will.

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2/28/2018 3:55 PM

http://oem-cycle.com/HONDACR250BIKEID.shtml
This site helped me identify parts when I was building my 93 and 94. Gives you specs and parts interchangeability

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2/28/2018 5:59 PM

Awesome. Great link! Ok pictures, everyone loves pictures. These are from day one clean up, not a full tear down, just to see if I can find more problem areas.
But first that applied clamp I ordered off eBay. Will be removing the anodizing once I confirm it fits. It should fit ‘94 125/250 according to Applied website. I have another bottom coming that has two good stops.

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Some pics of all the grime, the guy really loved grease, so not finding much rust, and it’s a TX bike. Look at this airbox!!

Photo

Took me hours to scrape it using WD-40 and plastic putty knives. After pic. No rust. Notice the metal
seat stay is missing. Will fabricate and weld one in the future.

Photo

Couple issues with the exhaust hitting front fender and heat at the point where the silencer junction is has warped the airbox. Can see from inside airbox and it’s developed a small crack in the box. There’s no air gap there, is this a typical problem? The fender issue means clearly it’s bent.

Photo

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The tank has been painted so It will need a complete makeover. Did a test area, paint comes off easily.

Photo

The wheels cleaned up nicely. Can see some of the original anodizing on bolt heads. I’m missing one rear spoke. It’s an 18” wheel. Wish I could get just one! Debating about going to a 19” wheel. Thoughts?

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Next thing to do is take the carb apart, sure the Pilot is clogged. I’m not too keen on riding this bike until I’ve got the suspension rebuilt, at least the forks. I want to get the bike in decent ridable condition to shake it down before I worry about cosmetics.

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2/28/2018 7:44 PM

RCMXracing wrote:

Day zero - First build: One dirty as hell unmolested ‘94 CR250R. Only ugly I can find so far is a broken steering stop on the bottom clamp. Previous owner said he did the top end and the bore is stock. Everything appears solid. Various incorrect bolts, leaky fork seals, spooge out the exhaust, etc.
Questions/advice:
I can get a bottom triple easily, but from some reading understand in ‘95 they increased the width of the forks with new clamps. Can anyone verify? If I went with the ‘95 and up I assume just wheel spacers needed? If so how far into modern years spacers would work? If I stick with what is for ‘94 how far back fits? 1990?
Ideally I would like to go aftermarket clamps of the era, at a minimum top clamp that will allow bars more forward. Recommendations?
Can these forks and shock be made decent? What spring rates would you recommend for 185lb rider (no gear)?
Photo

Seeing that bike put a smile on my face....those CR's will always be timeless

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2/28/2018 10:13 PM
Edited Date/Time: 2/28/2018 10:14 PM

I heard this company can make a repro spoke for you, I'd get a couple and the nipples too.
https://www.buchananspokes.com/

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The older I get, the faster I was.

3/5/2018 8:13 AM

@captmoto thanks for tip, good news for the purists. The stock spokes are in excellent shape and I might send the inner and outer to Buchanan to get a few duplicated. My plan for now is to get a set of Excels (Notako) that fit OEM hub. Been back and forth on stock 18” vs. a 19” hoop and I’m gonna stick with 18” for now.

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3/5/2018 8:36 AM

Day 2 update: Good and bad. First the good, the pilot was clogged of course. Fixed that and adjusted float and it runs very clean on the stand. 178/60 in there, stock is 175/55. Will be running Maxima 927 at 40:1 will need some brass I’m sure.
Other good news is the cases look great, no evidence of any fatigue cracks. Also the swingarm, fully inspected and can’t find any cracks.
The bad: Ugh, this is ugly, but have a buddy that tells me this is nothing and will Tig weld this up.

Photo

It’s strange because the hole is on the side!? There is no rust on the inside of the tube. The drain hole is clear. Maybe a rock or gouge from a skid plate bolt, something. I wasn’t ready for a frame off, so may plug it temporarily until I can get the rest of the bike mechanically sound and ride it to see if I want to invest more.

First load of parts.

Photo

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3/5/2018 9:26 AM

That is a nice clean looking 94... Hard to explain the rust hole in the frame... Was the the skid plate mounted in that spot? Not what you want to hear but, No way I would ride that bike without a full strip/ sandblast/ rewelded of all critical stress area"s. I would have that rot section completely replaced, no big deal to a welder /fab guy. Such a clean bike, it's worth a proper restore....

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3/5/2018 9:56 AM

There was a skid plate but a newer one that didn’t interfere. It is odd. I’m going to strip that area and remove the rust, see what I’m working with. No evidence whatsoever the bike was ever kept outside. Eventually the fame will get a complete overhaul, possibly sooner than later if there is a large rot area.

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3/5/2018 10:07 AM

my 96 Cr had alot of time on it before I restored it. The skid plate mounts had worn into the frame, the upper front engine mounts had a crack. I had those area"s repaired, then had footpeg mounting area"s, all lower cradle & upper down tube welds chased & finished. It"s a few more steps & a little more $, but when I ride it, there is no doubt in my mind it's a solid bike that can be ridden hard, just like a new bike. Those engines can still get it done and put stress on a weak frame...I wish I could find a bike half as clean as yours in the northeast....nice find

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3/5/2018 11:28 AM

If you need anymore items text me 570 606 7687 I can offer you around 15-25% rocky mountain website pricing.

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3/8/2018 9:23 PM

RCMXracing wrote:

Awesome. Great link! Ok pictures, everyone loves pictures. These are from day one clean up, not a full tear down, just to see if I can find more problem areas.
But first that applied clamp I ordered off eBay. Will be removing the anodizing once I confirm it fits. It should fit ‘94 125/250 according to Applied website. I have another bottom coming that has two good stops.

Photo

Some pics of all the grime, the guy really loved grease, so not finding much rust, and it’s a TX bike. Look at this airbox!!

Photo

Took me hours to scrape it using WD-40 and plastic putty knives. After pic. No rust. Notice the metal
seat stay is missing. Will fabricate and weld one in the future.

Photo

Couple issues with the exhaust hitting front fender and heat at the point where the silencer junction is has warped the airbox. Can see from inside airbox and it’s developed a small crack in the box. There’s no air gap there, is this a typical problem? The fender issue means clearly it’s bent.

Photo

Photo

The tank has been painted so It will need a complete makeover. Did a test area, paint comes off easily.

Photo

The wheels cleaned up nicely. Can see some of the original anodizing on bolt heads. I’m missing one rear spoke. It’s an 18” wheel. Wish I could get just one! Debating about going to a 19” wheel. Thoughts?

Photo

Photo

Next thing to do is take the carb apart, sure the Pilot is clogged. I’m not too keen on riding this bike until I’ve got the suspension rebuilt, at least the forks. I want to get the bike in decent ridable condition to shake it down before I worry about cosmetics.

Dude what did you do get those spokes so clean???? Im cleaning up my 03 kx250 and my spokes have potential but have a chainlube stains im having a hard time getting them clean

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3/22/2018 8:37 PM

Lightning78 wrote:

Dude what did you do get those spokes so clean???? Im cleaning up my 03 kx250 and my spokes have potential but have a chainlube stains im having a hard time getting them clean

Nothing special, just did a preliminary wash of the bike as usual, simple green and a brush...the spokes are just in good shape. What I have done in the past, and will to these, is 0000 steel wool.
BTW on my missing spoke issue...I was chasing around all over and the advice about Buchanan is good, need to give some detail on the spoke design and they will make a single spoke. Also a guy “bikebuzzard” on eBay that has used parts. BUT even better... and I feel like an idiot, when I was going to OEM parts on RM the default was a set of 16 for inner or outer (A or cool, well you can count that down to any number and get however many you want! So ordered a single and will run the 18” set up for now.

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3/22/2018 9:15 PM

Day 3 update: Got the used bottom clamp and a top applied (used) and can tell having the bars more forward than stock will be much, MUCH better. I had a set of stock fat bars off my ‘11 RMZ that will work well. The fat bar is not the look of what was ran back in the day, but going with it. Applied has 7/8 bar clamps if I want to switch. Thinking the fat bar will be more comfortable though.

Photo

Tore down the forks. The oil was NASTY! No damage. New seals and bushings will go in. I found out the spring rate by calling race tech. It wasn’t their spring, but he had me measure the coil diameter, spring diameter (both larger and tapered section), length, and count coils, ... .44 KG/MM. Rear is a 5.7. Stoked on that news, both firmer than stock and right what I need. These forks were worked by Lucky Nichols, I’ve got a call to see if he has notes on oil height. If not will go with STD.
If you look at the photo I circled the protector guides. They are in decent shape, but don’t think new are available...anyone know where to find some new or a different aftermarket solution?

Photo

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3/23/2018 6:03 AM

Aftermarket solution may available

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3/26/2018 8:31 PM

RCMXracing wrote:

Day 3 update: Got the used bottom clamp and a top applied (used) and can tell having the bars more forward than stock will be much, MUCH better. I had a set of stock fat bars off my ‘11 RMZ that will work well. The fat bar is not the look of what was ran back in the day, but going with it. Applied has 7/8 bar clamps if I want to switch. Thinking the fat bar will be more comfortable though.

Photo

Tore down the forks. The oil was NASTY! No damage. New seals and bushings will go in. I found out the spring rate by calling race tech. It wasn’t their spring, but he had me measure the coil diameter, spring diameter (both larger and tapered section), length, and count coils, ... .44 KG/MM. Rear is a 5.7. Stoked on that news, both firmer than stock and right what I need. These forks were worked by Lucky Nichols, I’ve got a call to see if he has notes on oil height. If not will go with STD.
If you look at the photo I circled the protector guides. They are in decent shape, but don’t think new are available...anyone know where to find some new or a different aftermarket solution?

Photo

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.fr%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F111999366414

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