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The Shop
Don't want to buy a new piston
The photo shows how I use a socket set on the inner bearing race, then heat with torch,then drop in frozen crank, works good but....I received a major beat down in the garage today! Either my crank bearings are not seated correctly or the crank webs are 1mm too wide....
Pit Row
If you've done anything to the transmission, it's probably a good idea to first assemble the cases with transmission only installed, without the crank. You'll only need to install a few case bolts to tighten the cases with center case gasket installed. Run the transmission thru the gears, make sure all shifts are correct. Might have to spin the mainshaft by hand and sometimes add some drag to the countershaft while operating the shift lever. Simulates a running engine. After you're satisfied with the gearbox shifting performance, split the cases again and then put the crank in. The cases will split with only finger pressure without the crank installed.. Takes a little extra time, but saves putting the assembled engine into the frame only to later find out there's a problem. Have previously learned this lesson the hard way.
Nice work, and you're light years ahead of where you were just a few years ago with your builds.
The more time consuming way would be to remove the crank bearing. Measure the bearing width to make sure its the same as stock if you put new ones in.
There might have also possibly been some debris under the crank bearing when it was installed.
Also, if the bearing was not perfectly perpendicular to the case's bearing pocket when it was installed, a sliver can shave off the case pocket race and wedge underneath the bearing as its driven in. Results in the bearing sticking up too high..
Post a reply to: 1987 RM125....I”m a sucker for old Suzuki”s..