04 RM125 build for the rest of us...done

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11/29/2016 6:37 PM

The idea of this build is to get a nice bike which I can race some enduros with. The other idea is to do it economically. I would like to stay around $1000 total. I don't have anything against the bling or A kits of some other builds but it isn't in my budget and I want to race this and not worry about scratching my show bike. The idea for this came up a couple of months ago but really cheap bikes are few and far between around here. As luck would have it, someone listed a 04 RM125 in need of some work for $650 on Craigslist last weekend. After checking it out, we agreed on $550 and the project has begun.

The good:
good price, overall not too beat up, has title, has all of the parts

The Bad:
Blown crank, overall really dirty and just neglected, in need of a bunch of small stuff. bike was taken apart before it was cleaned.

Here is what I am starting with. The motor and the rest of the parts are in that blue tub.
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11/29/2016 8:22 PM

Good find!

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11/29/2016 8:37 PM

garagedog wrote:

Good find!

Yah...I haven't seen one that cheap in a while. So far, I have just been cleaning, cataloging parts needed and searching out prices. Today I was able to get the cases cleaned up and ready for reassembly.

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11/29/2016 9:30 PM

Sweet job on the case! I did an RM over a few years ago. Bought it for a 1000 and it blew the bottom end 3 laps into riding haha.

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11/30/2016 12:47 AM

Great find! Can't beat an RM125

51 tooth rear sprocket and a V-Force go a long way on these bikes, helps awaken the low end.
HGS pipes are very good on these bikes if a new pipe is on the shopping list

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@russ_69

11/30/2016 7:32 AM

BAMX wrote:

The idea of this build is to get a nice bike which I can race some enduros with. The other idea is to do it economically. I ...more

You picked that up from upland didn't you??

I was first in line to get it until the wife ended that haha

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2017 RMZ450
2005 YZ250-sold :,(
1998 YZ250
2005 KX250F

80% of the time it works every time
IG @2HRacing
Thanks to : Factory Effex, N2Dirt, Acerbis, DT1, Fasthouse, Matix, FMF, ASV, 100% & Mika Metals

11/30/2016 7:51 AM

mattyhamz2 wrote:

You picked that up from upland didn't you??

I was first in line to get it until the wife ended that haha

That's the one.

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11/30/2016 7:58 AM

BAMX wrote:

The idea of this build is to get a nice bike which I can race some enduros with. The other idea is to do it economically. I ...more

mattyhamz2 wrote:

You picked that up from upland didn't you??

I was first in line to get it until the wife ended that haha

BAMX wrote:

That's the one.

Dammit!!! You lucky bastard! Lol. I'm watching this thread closely to see what could have been sad

Glad I get to see what it turns into. What did you end up getting it for?

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2017 RMZ450
2005 YZ250-sold :,(
1998 YZ250
2005 KX250F

80% of the time it works every time
IG @2HRacing
Thanks to : Factory Effex, N2Dirt, Acerbis, DT1, Fasthouse, Matix, FMF, ASV, 100% & Mika Metals

11/30/2016 7:59 AM

RussB wrote:

Great find! Can't beat an RM125

51 tooth rear sprocket and a V-Force go a long way on these bikes, helps awaken the low end.
...more

I lucked out and it came with V Force 2. For the pipe, I found a Pro Circuit Platinum with a couple of small dents (I will be removing them with some dent removal tools that I made) for $75 on Ebay. Since I will be racing some D37 enduro's, it needs a spark arrestor. I found an FMF Turbine core 2 with a dented end cap for $60 on Ebay. Hopefully, I can remove the dent. If not, I will get a replacement cap.

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11/30/2016 8:07 AM

mattyhamz2 wrote:

You picked that up from upland didn't you??

I was first in line to get it until the wife ended that haha

BAMX wrote:

That's the one.

mattyhamz2 wrote:

Dammit!!! You lucky bastard! Lol. I'm watching this thread closely to see what could have been sad

Glad I get to see what it ...more

I ended up getting it for $550 It is in overall good shape less that bottom end. Luckily, the cylinder and head didn't suffer any damage from that failure. The bike is kind of a weird deal. It isn't abused (meaning that it isn't all pitted up and hammered) but, it is one of those bikes that looks like it was mainly rinsed off when it was washed. There is a lot of filth and the castings are pretty stained. The ultrasonic cleaner has been going full blast for the last couple of days. I will post some pics today of the parts that have been cleaned up

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11/30/2016 11:21 AM

BAMX wrote:

That's the one.

mattyhamz2 wrote:

Dammit!!! You lucky bastard! Lol. I'm watching this thread closely to see what could have been sad

Glad I get to see what it ...more

BAMX wrote:

I ended up getting it for $550 It is in overall good shape less that bottom end. Luckily, the cylinder and head didn't suffer ...more

$550 is a score man. I can't wait to see how it turns out. Keep us updated with pics as much as possible.

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2017 RMZ450
2005 YZ250-sold :,(
1998 YZ250
2005 KX250F

80% of the time it works every time
IG @2HRacing
Thanks to : Factory Effex, N2Dirt, Acerbis, DT1, Fasthouse, Matix, FMF, ASV, 100% & Mika Metals

11/30/2016 1:26 PM

It's great seeing bikes brought back from the dead. This is gonna be cool

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11/30/2016 4:54 PM

garagedog wrote:

Good find!

BAMX wrote:

Yah...I haven't seen one that cheap in a while. So far, I have just been cleaning, cataloging parts needed and searching out ...more

What method did you use to get those cases looking so good?! I have mine all torn down right now and can't decide on an approach.

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11/30/2016 8:19 PM

powertrip456 wrote:

What method did you use to get those cases looking so good?! I have mine all torn down right now and can't decide on an ...more

I bead blasted them. First, I heated the cases in the shop oven to 300 F and let all of the bearings that were willing drop out. I had a few stubborn ones so, I cleaned around them with acetone and then used gaffers tape to mask. It worked well and the tape even stayed on through the parts washer rinsing.

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11/30/2016 8:25 PM

Today was more cleaning and disassembly. The bike is now down to just the frame, forks and front wheel. Here is the before and after of the radiators. It may be a bit hard to see but they started out really stained by dirt. After a number of applications of Eagle One Mag Wheel Cleaner (etching type), they look new.Photo

Photo

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12/1/2016 3:53 AM

Looking great. Thank you for the response. I've been going through my YZ250 a little here and a little there for forever and a day (been riding a 250F during), and I'm just trying to do everything right. I actually just baked out my main bearings over the weekend. I thought yours looked a little different than the bead blast finishes I've seen. Are you anodizing them or anything else?

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12/1/2016 8:09 AM

powertrip456 wrote:

Looking great. Thank you for the response. I've been going through my YZ250 a little here and a little there for forever and a ...more

I haven't totally decided yet but I am leaning towards just leaving the cases the way that they are. The glass bead I used has been in the cabinet for a really long time so, it is really fine. That left the finish pretty smooth. My only worry is that it will now want to stain more easily. I may take a scotch-brite pad and smooth them down some more.

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12/1/2016 9:23 AM

I'm not sure what type of shop you work in, but I'm at an aerospace tooling shop and we have this mold-release clear coat stuff called Frekote. I blasted my swingarm last year and DA-ed some of the surfaces then coated it with that. I love how it turned out and I've had zero staining since. May be worth looking into for your cases.

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12/1/2016 10:50 AM

powertrip456 wrote:

I'm not sure what type of shop you work in, but I'm at an aerospace tooling shop and we have this mold-release clear coat ...more

We have some mold release but not that particular type. It looks interesting and doesn't seem very expensive. Does it wash off? Or, is it more like a paint?

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12/1/2016 11:09 AM

BAMX wrote:

We have some mold release but not that particular type. It looks interesting and doesn't seem very expensive. Does it wash ...more

It shouldn't wash off, at least without you really wanting it to. It doesn't sit on top like a paint, but I believe it actually permeates the aluminum. I can tell you in the one year of riding and washing my bike it looks like I just finished it. I'm not an expert on the tool-maker stuff or any chemicals, just a machinist and programmer. Just wear gloves and a respirator if you apply it! The stuff I used smells like instant cancer.

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12/1/2016 11:12 AM

powertrip456 wrote:

I'm not sure what type of shop you work in, but I'm at an aerospace tooling shop and we have this mold-release clear coat ...more

BAMX wrote:

We have some mold release but not that particular type. It looks interesting and doesn't seem very expensive. Does it wash ...more

powertrip456 wrote:

It shouldn't wash off, at least without you really wanting it to. It doesn't sit on top like a paint, but I believe it ...more

Nice...thanks for the info and the warning on the respirator. I think that I will spray on a coat before I put it back together. I found a spray can version on Ebay for $12 with free shipping. It can't hurt and like I said, I am a bit worried about staining now that I opened up the pores with the glass bead.

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12/2/2016 9:33 PM

The last few days, there has been a bunch more cleaning and a few of the new parts have started to show up. Per normal, there were a few unwanted surprises. The steering and linkage bearings were junk, the carb slide was broken and I found a crack in the frame.

The clutch was too grooved to be used so, I did a little Ebay shopping and found one for $105. I had never heard of Surflex but it was made in Italy and the price was right.
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Install was the usual and everything went smoothly.
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My friend was able to get the crack welded up. Although, it was a pain in the ass as there was some kind of contamination either in the tube or in the crack along the motor mount. The contaminant had the weld doing all sorts of weird stuff. Regardless, he finally made it happen . The welding allowed me to finally get a coat of paint on the frame. That was nice as it marked the turning point to where parts are going on instead of coming off.


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12/3/2016 1:16 PM

BAMX wrote:

Today was more cleaning and disassembly. The bike is now down to just the frame, forks and front wheel. Here is the before and ...more

Great find and good work so far, how did you straighten out all the fins on the radiator? they literally do look like new!

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12/3/2016 3:04 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/3/2016 3:24 PM

BAMX wrote:

Today was more cleaning and disassembly. The bike is now down to just the frame, forks and front wheel. Here is the before and ...more

Cliffy615 wrote:

Great find and good work so far, how did you straighten out all the fins on the radiator? they literally do look like new!

I actually didn't straighten. I just cleaned them with the Eagle One etching wheel cleaner. It looks like the first pic is shot from the roost side and the second clean shot is from the nicer back side. Luckily, those bad fins will cover with the radiator louvers. That cleaner is magic on all of the bare aluminum parts. It turns all of that dingy stained aluminum into new.

I have had some luck in the past by straightening the fins with a scribe tool. I am talking about the kind that looks like a pick and has a straight point and a 90 degree point. Essentially, I stuck the straight point in until it was the right width on the wider side of the V. Then, I pulled towards the skinny side and pulled up as I went. That was time consuming but made a nice V which looked close to stock. Some fins were too waffled to be perfect but that method was a lot better than straightening with a small screwdriver.

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12/3/2016 7:43 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/3/2016 7:48 PM

garagedog wrote:

Good find!

BAMX wrote:

Yah...I haven't seen one that cheap in a while. So far, I have just been cleaning, cataloging parts needed and searching out ...more

What'd you use to clean the cases?

Edit: just saw. Will be watching your thread closely as I just got one as well!

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12/4/2016 6:44 AM

Great advice on the mag cleaner!

I recently rebuilt a 2005 RM125. I had Eric Gorr go over the engine and rebuild into a 144. I think the added low and mid power would really help for enduro riding.

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12/4/2016 9:53 AM

PRM31 wrote:

Great advice on the mag cleaner!

I recently rebuilt a 2005 RM125. I had Eric Gorr go over the engine and rebuild into a 144. ...more

I have found that it works better if applied to a dry part. Plus, it helps if you apply and then use a sponge/scotch-brite to help with the removal of heavy deposits. Plus that saves cleaner which at $8 a bottle is a good thing. I have been spraying it and and letting it sit for a few seconds. Then cleaning what I can with one of those sponges that has the mild scotch-brite glued to the regular sponge. It really is amazing how much better the parts look verses just cleaning with degreaser/simple green or even the ultrasonic. You just have to be careful to keep it away from anything magnesium as it will turn those parts dark. Then again, it give them a cool finish too. I think that I am going to use it on my magnesium hubs. One of my friends did and it looks pretty cool.

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12/5/2016 9:13 PM

Well, I had to do a little more painting on the frame this morning. My painting at dusk on Friday left me with a couple of spots that were light on paint' After that, the reassembly started. I started chasing the threads and remembered that the lower pipe mount had a 1/4-20 bolt threaded into it. Luckily, I had a short Time-Sert.

Here is a pic of the Time-Sert kit IMO, these are the only way to go for thread repair. If you aren't familiar with them, they are a solid sleeve that has a slight hour glass shape, You drill, countersink, tap and then install the insert. Inserts can be bought in any number of different sizes, lengths and materials. The kits are pretty expensive at around $75 per size but they work well. I have found some good deals on Ebay by searching "kent moore thread" That company made a number of multi sized Time Sert kits for car dealerships and they go pretty cheap.

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Here is the finished product. You can barely notice the repair.


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After that repair, I was finally able to start putting a few parts back on the frame.Photo

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12/6/2016 12:09 PM

I got some of the parts in yesterday. Here are the bearing kits that I bought from Ebay. They were both from Bearing Connections and look good. The steering bearing kit is much nicer than the All Balls that I had bought the last time I did them on my 250.

Steering bearings kit $27
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Linkage kit $47. It has way more than I anticipated. It has every part less the aluminum casting to rebuild the linkage.

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12/7/2016 5:30 PM

I have been fighting some issues with my carb. The original had a broken slide. It looks to have cracked off pieces that went through the motor. It didn't do much damage but the piston showed a few marks. My thought was to buy a new OE unit until I saw that Suzuki wanted $150 for it. I searched Ebay and the best that I could do was to buy a whole carb for $80. The thought was to rob the slide and resell the rest. That was until I checked the slide that was in this new carb. It had started to crack as well. A friend recommended Sudco and they came through. $63 for a brand new slide.

Here are the two bad slides.
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