I'm guessing you don' invest in stocks, bonds, ETF, ect. Just hide the cash under your mattress?

The rear should be a 20mm or 25mm depending on if you have an EXC/XCW or SX/XC.

My guess is you would have to ask some sort of structural engineer who built that frame. Almost the same as motor mount or linkage bolt directions. Might be something with the amount of torque / flex / that the frame and bolt work in conjunction with. ... more »

Get the 350 and send the ECU away for mapping, lots of companies do this. Tell them you want more torque and bottom end pull. It would be like a 450 but you'll be amazed on how much it helps.

No need to sue anyone just yet, just go old school and pick up the phone and call them first and let them know the issue and send them some pics. Let us know how it goes.....

Did you turn the locking screws all the way out? You have to turn them way out, not just loosen them. If that doesn't work, try removing the entire pressure plate and see if you can move it when it isn't in the engine.

The size is going to depend on your cylinder bore size, but if you don't have a inside bore gauge to measure, I would just go with the 71.4mm. If the cylinder is worn, then go with the 71.95 or 71.96. Again, without an inside bore gauge you can't measure ... more »

Technical Touch is starting to carry a little more Showa stuff, they used to be only KYB. Maybe try SDI, or you might try calls to Factory Connection, Enzo, PC, ect. I would guess 97' to whatever year they stopped using the 47MM Showa tubes, somewhere ... more »

They use preprinted backgrounds with the numbers printed for the size of the plate. If your going old school and buying 6", 7" or 8" numbers it's hard to make it look good, You'd have to buy big #'s for the front plate, and small #'s for the side panels ... more »

Hard to guess without seeing your bike up close, but there's always a little bit of movement, maybe 1 to 2 millimeters of up and down at the rear wheel that won't go away. Or did you rebuild the linkage, upper / lower shock bearings but not the swingarm ... more »

I'm guessing the crank is seized also? If it was a brand new cylinder and piston and you checked piston to bore spec (and ring end gap, but that's a measurement for compression) then when the lower rod bearing starts to seize it will cause massive drag, ... more »

You can drain 100% of the inner chamber into the outer and it's not enough to cause hydraulic lock on those forks. Most likely a front axle pinch bolt binding issue, or maybe a bent or dented fork tube.

I would say go with the Rekluse Torque Drive. It's a manual, not an auto. The reason why I would recommend that over the Hinson (2nd choice) is the amount of R&D that goes into those clutches. You get more plates (thinner) for more square inch surface ... more »

Another difference between the Twin Air and No Toil kit is Twin air is a billet aluminum cage, and the NoToil is plastic like the stock one.

Try 2 things if you can, do a fuel pump pressure test. Going off of memory, you should have roughly 46 to 52psi. And it will shoot across the room at 20psi, but it will have erratic starting issues if it falls out of the 46 to 52psi range. Not sure if ... more »

Part number is 79239005044, it's part of the flywheel. Some people call it the starter clutch also. Just like Jg144 says, it could be your problem. If you have access to the KTM diag tool, or know of a dealer that does, they should be able to contact ... more »

Ask whoever built your motor what octane it requires, although that's a tough question for most to answer accurately. Anything over the required octane points will loose power. Anything under will run hot and possibly detonate worst case. If they say ... more »

DeHandlers!