Don’t be so sure. The MX33 breaks down fairly fast and you start to lose side bite. The Hoosiers are the worst with how fast they break down and the Pirelli seemed to last the longest.

Something I thought about is if you’re running 12 psi in your tires and you have 9 hours on them than chances are that tire carcass is toast and you should replace the tires. That can cause the feeling you’re taking about too.

Rejet it from the jetting thread and it’s a different bike all together.

Ooof, you must shift a shit ton on that thing. I rode one with that gearing and would have to down shift 2-3 gears going into a turn and would lose count as to what gear I was in. Is it 5? Is it 11th? Let’s down shift 2 into this turn, nope bog, down ... more »

Simple, just go high speed or low speed. You’re either first of last, shake and bake.

I echo this, do all of it before asking why it’s still not right because you’ve only done some of the changes. With diggers guidance pointing me in the right direction we’ve got a really solid baseline for all the bikes that requires very minor tweaks ... more »

More grip with you’re knees and less grip with your hands. Balls of your feet on the pegs in most situations and with your toes pointed in to help with the leg grip. Elbows up as well. Also a thing to note is if you use a lot of hand lotion then you’re ... more »

Speed up the rear rebound (try 3-4 clicks out) the rear likes to pack up with the stock settings.

What bike? That’s the wrong needle for sure and is more then likely your problem. They seem pretty picky on having the wrong needle in it and even a half clip position makes a big difference.

Looks like the one that KTM came with.

I’ve seen the muffler on those full of gunk and restrict flow causing a big and stall. Those are able to be taken apart and cleaned then put back together.

The CRF one won’t calm anything down in rough stuff, it’s not that kind of damper. It helps keep your front end from climbing out of ruts in turn. If you’re having problems with the front end being busy in fast rough sections then drop the forks to the ... more »

I liked T2, but it was the same price as u4.4 so it was a no brained to run that. On a budget pump and C12 are a good option, which is why I have it on there.

Time for part 2. Some small stuff I forgot in the last post. The drip rail delete I've started to fully weld. The "body guy" that helped me years ago was wrong on how they should be done so I'm fixing that before it becomes a problem down the road. I

I currently run ethanol free pump gas actually. I’ve run T2, C12, pump with 10% ethanol, ethanol free pump, and u4.4. Around here C12 is the cheapest and T2 was about $20 more. u4.4 is just over $100 with tax at most of the bike shops local. There was ... more »

Long overdue post. Sorry to neglect the updates, but I promise I've been busy on the car. I'll start with the "list". I was feeling overwhelmed by the amount of stuff I have to do still and made a list of things just off the top of my head that needed

I know, I know. I’ve been working on the car, but slacking on the updates. I’ll try and put something together tonight.

Pipe and silencer didn’t change my jetting. I run a PC pipe and the long silencer for more top end over rev. If you want/need more bottom go with a shorty like the 304. I don’t know anyone running a HGS pipe or even a FMF around here. On the ‘18’s (which ... more »

All of my testing has been with MX, it should be a solid start for you tho. You didn’t say what problems you’re having with your current setup tho as everyone seems pretty happy with the settings so far. There has been a few guys that have needed bigger ... more »