Best Premix

Braaaphole
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Whats the better oils these days for 2 smokes? Back when I raced, I always ran Yamalube. It was recommended to me by a factory mechanic and my top end always lasted with it. A lot has changed in 15 years though and synthetics have come a long ways. What do you guys like?
I also don't want anything that says to run at 50:1 or some crazy ratio. I ran 40:1 back then, I'm running 36:1 now. I'd like to stay between 32:1 and 40:1.
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F1 Moto
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Buxton AU
1/15/2017 9:05pm
We run Motorex cross power 2T - 40:1 for bigger bikes generally.
Maxima cator based 976 ? is also a very good oil.
tempura
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1/15/2017 9:30pm
The yamalube you were running is good oil.
BobPA
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1/15/2017 9:36pm
Klotz Super Techniplate for me

The Shop

MotoX85
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1/16/2017 2:00am
Have ran Maxima 927 for 30 years. Mix 32:1, don't care what your manual says, (KTM lovers) and you will never have a problem due to oil related failures. Its a little more carbony, but your crank will be swimming in oil everytime you do a top end.

With that being said, I just switched to Maxima K2. Stupid? who knows. K2 is highly recommended by a lot of people with 2 things being better than 927

927 can separate at temps below 35 degrees and the carbon I mentioned.

K2 is suppose to solve both these problems....we will see.

The pro for 927 though is it is designed for extreme use performance, hardest of the hardest racing conditions.

But, today almost every oil is of awesome quality and as long as you consistently use the same oil (separation problems) and mix it at around a 32:1 ratio (remember, more oil is more power and ring seal) you will not usually have a failure do to oil quality. Pick a good dealer, get your best price for a quality oil (not local gas station generic) and use it consistently.
tempura
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1/16/2017 7:59am
I used K2 for a couple of years and liked it. Only reason I stopped was I couldn't buy it locally. I'm using Castrol TTS, or power 1 racing as its called now. I can buy it locally at a few locations.
adam8781
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1/16/2017 8:05am
amsoil dominator.

but there are so many great choices
JH911
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Wenatchee, WA US
1/16/2017 8:28am
Klotz R50, Dumonde Tech DTP, Honda HP2, Maxima Super M Castor 927 K2, kinda hard to go wrong nowadays
FGR01
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Fantasy
1222nd
1/16/2017 9:38am
Been running Maxima Super-M in my YZ125 and YZ250 for 10 years. Works great and top ends look perfect when I take them apart. Also very easy to clean the power valves. K2 is Maxima's top of the line synthetic so I gave it a shot. Bikes had more black spooge. Seems K2 has a higher flash point and doesn't burn as readily or completely as Super-M. I'm a decent rider and keep the bikes on the pipe so it's not like I was lugging around or anything. So, back to Super-M and fine ever since.

I don't recommend Castor-927 or any Castor oil unless you just like cleaning power valves and using a grinder to get the thick carbon off the core of your muffler.
slipdog
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1/16/2017 9:51am
My history has been Motul 800, Gloden Spectro, Red Line and now Motorex at 50:1
davidgrip
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Indianapolis, IN US
1/16/2017 11:15am
Maxima Castor 927. 32:1- 125, 40:1-250
Recommended by Pro Circuit for 2 Strokes.
2004 KX125

David
774 Chaplin Kawasaki
Factory Backing
Factory Seat
Acerbis
Dunlop
MX Engine Stand
Matrix Concepts
walent215
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Ridgecrest, CA US
1/16/2017 11:27am
I like the motul 800 myself. I used 927 years ago and had good luck with it also. The fact that it separates is a concern if you don't run fresh stuff always or let it sit between rides over a long period of time
Ktm 5
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Ravenna, MI US
1/16/2017 11:40am
I too preferred Motul 800
F1 Moto
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1/16/2017 1:41pm
A point often overlooked is that more oil does not necessarily mean improved reliability.
For any given jet size can only flow a finite amount of liquid if more of the volume is taken up by oil then the fuel content will be lower.

Also More oil will generally lower the octane rating of the fuel.
Both these factors will take you closer to the detonation limit of your engine.
This should be considered in tuning for performance & reliability.
Falcon
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1/16/2017 1:56pm
F1 Moto wrote:
A point often overlooked is that more oil does not necessarily mean improved reliability. For any given jet size can only flow a finite amount of...
A point often overlooked is that more oil does not necessarily mean improved reliability.
For any given jet size can only flow a finite amount of liquid if more of the volume is taken up by oil then the fuel content will be lower.

Also More oil will generally lower the octane rating of the fuel.
Both these factors will take you closer to the detonation limit of your engine.
This should be considered in tuning for performance & reliability.
Also, more oil = leaner fuel/air mixture. Yeah, leaner.

I've used K2 with good results and I'm using Yamalube R now. The best I've ever used is Bel-Ray H1R, however. I seriously had to recalculate my hours one time because the motor looked brand new when I took it apart. That oil is a full synthetic with a power valve detergent. Good stuff.
slipdog
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1/16/2017 2:20pm
F1 Moto wrote:
A point often overlooked is that more oil does not necessarily mean improved reliability. For any given jet size can only flow a finite amount of...
A point often overlooked is that more oil does not necessarily mean improved reliability.
For any given jet size can only flow a finite amount of liquid if more of the volume is taken up by oil then the fuel content will be lower.

Also More oil will generally lower the octane rating of the fuel.
Both these factors will take you closer to the detonation limit of your engine.
This should be considered in tuning for performance & reliability.
Falcon wrote:
Also, more oil = leaner fuel/air mixture. Yeah, leaner. I've used K2 with good results and I'm using Yamalube R now. The best I've ever used...
Also, more oil = leaner fuel/air mixture. Yeah, leaner.

I've used K2 with good results and I'm using Yamalube R now. The best I've ever used is Bel-Ray H1R, however. I seriously had to recalculate my hours one time because the motor looked brand new when I took it apart. That oil is a full synthetic with a power valve detergent. Good stuff.
F1 clearly stated that AF would be leaner in his first paragraph, resulting in one factor taking you closer to detonation.
tempura
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1/16/2017 8:24pm
FGR01 wrote:
Been running Maxima Super-M in my YZ125 and YZ250 for 10 years. Works great and top ends look perfect when I take them apart. Also very...
Been running Maxima Super-M in my YZ125 and YZ250 for 10 years. Works great and top ends look perfect when I take them apart. Also very easy to clean the power valves. K2 is Maxima's top of the line synthetic so I gave it a shot. Bikes had more black spooge. Seems K2 has a higher flash point and doesn't burn as readily or completely as Super-M. I'm a decent rider and keep the bikes on the pipe so it's not like I was lugging around or anything. So, back to Super-M and fine ever since.

I don't recommend Castor-927 or any Castor oil unless you just like cleaning power valves and using a grinder to get the thick carbon off the core of your muffler.
Actually K2 has a slightly lower flash point than super-M.
Motul 800 and Bel-Ray are H1-R is the highest.
If you're on the pipe a lot in MX, especially on a small bore 2 stroke, the higher flash point oil is a good choice. Running slower on a big bore could leave a mess, as the oil isn't being used as it was designed.
Here's a flash point chart I refer to, that I found:

Amsoil Interceptor - 183 F
Amsoil Dominator- 194 F
Amsoil Saber Pro - 237 F
Maxima Formula K2 - 240 F
Maxima Super M - 280 F
Maxima Super M Injector - 220 F
Maxima Castor 927 - 420 F
Maxima Bio 2T - 180 F
Motul 710 - 190 F
Motul 800 - 485 F
Motul Bio 2T - 255 F
Motorex Cross Power 2T - 230 F
Lucas Semi Synthetic - 182 F
Bel Ray H1R - 435 F
Bel Ray MC1 - 208 F
Bel Ray Si7 - 194 F
Castrol Power RS- 163 F
Castrol 2T - 194 F
Red Line Two-Stroke Racing Oil - 221 °F
tempura
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1/17/2017 2:16am
JMX82 wrote:
Castrol A747 Flash Point 274 °C =525.2 °F http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/castrol/castrol-a747-tds.pdf [img]https://www.oljemagasinet.se/image/cache/data/Castrol/Castrol_A747_1L-500x500.jpg[/img]
Castrol A747 Flash Point 274 °C =525.2 °F

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/castrol/castrol-a747-tds.pdf

Smells great, but it's messy. I prefer the more modern stuff, and I don't need that level of protection.
FGR01
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AZ US
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1/17/2017 4:37am
FGR01 wrote:
Been running Maxima Super-M in my YZ125 and YZ250 for 10 years. Works great and top ends look perfect when I take them apart. Also very...
Been running Maxima Super-M in my YZ125 and YZ250 for 10 years. Works great and top ends look perfect when I take them apart. Also very easy to clean the power valves. K2 is Maxima's top of the line synthetic so I gave it a shot. Bikes had more black spooge. Seems K2 has a higher flash point and doesn't burn as readily or completely as Super-M. I'm a decent rider and keep the bikes on the pipe so it's not like I was lugging around or anything. So, back to Super-M and fine ever since.

I don't recommend Castor-927 or any Castor oil unless you just like cleaning power valves and using a grinder to get the thick carbon off the core of your muffler.
tempura wrote:
Actually K2 has a slightly lower flash point than super-M. Motul 800 and Bel-Ray are H1-R is the highest. If you're on the pipe a lot...
Actually K2 has a slightly lower flash point than super-M.
Motul 800 and Bel-Ray are H1-R is the highest.
If you're on the pipe a lot in MX, especially on a small bore 2 stroke, the higher flash point oil is a good choice. Running slower on a big bore could leave a mess, as the oil isn't being used as it was designed.
Here's a flash point chart I refer to, that I found:

Amsoil Interceptor - 183 F
Amsoil Dominator- 194 F
Amsoil Saber Pro - 237 F
Maxima Formula K2 - 240 F
Maxima Super M - 280 F
Maxima Super M Injector - 220 F
Maxima Castor 927 - 420 F
Maxima Bio 2T - 180 F
Motul 710 - 190 F
Motul 800 - 485 F
Motul Bio 2T - 255 F
Motorex Cross Power 2T - 230 F
Lucas Semi Synthetic - 182 F
Bel Ray H1R - 435 F
Bel Ray MC1 - 208 F
Bel Ray Si7 - 194 F
Castrol Power RS- 163 F
Castrol 2T - 194 F
Red Line Two-Stroke Racing Oil - 221 °F
If I remember, at the time I actually pulled the flash point info straight from maxima. In any case, I did a controlled test and K2 resulted in more spooge and a general overall sense that it wasn't burning as cleanly or as readily. I probably could have leaned out my jetting to raise combustion temps but the bikes were dialed in perfect so it was easier to change back to the oil that worked perfect.
tempura
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1/17/2017 5:12am
FGR01 wrote:
If I remember, at the time I actually pulled the flash point info straight from maxima. In any case, I did a controlled test and K2...
If I remember, at the time I actually pulled the flash point info straight from maxima. In any case, I did a controlled test and K2 resulted in more spooge and a general overall sense that it wasn't burning as cleanly or as readily. I probably could have leaned out my jetting to raise combustion temps but the bikes were dialed in perfect so it was easier to change back to the oil that worked perfect.
According to Maxima's website, the numbers I posted are accurate. Super-M does have a higher flash point.
Yes, the spooge and running you experienced was most likely jetting. Different oils require different jetting to get the best out of them.
BobPA
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1/17/2017 7:36pm
Klotz super Techniplate flash light is 460 F

My old man ran it in his circle track race sleds that turned BIG RPMS. Ran it in a V8 two stroke outboard on nitrous (drag boat).

I've used it in my stand up jet skis and moto bikes for many many years
Honda11
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1/17/2017 7:42pm
davidgrip wrote:
Maxima Castor 927. 32:1- 125, 40:1-250 Recommended by Pro Circuit for 2 Strokes. 2004 KX125 David 774 Chaplin Kawasaki Factory Backing Factory Seat Acerbis Dunlop MX...
Maxima Castor 927. 32:1- 125, 40:1-250
Recommended by Pro Circuit for 2 Strokes.
2004 KX125

David
774 Chaplin Kawasaki
Factory Backing
Factory Seat
Acerbis
Dunlop
MX Engine Stand
Matrix Concepts
lmao this dude posted his "sponsors" on a forum post like he was on the podium or something!

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