Ultra sound carburator cleaning ?

Neek
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Edited Date/Time 2/20/2015 12:12pm
Hello guys,

Last week, I rode my 250 YZ which did not run since mid 2013. Back in that time, I did not cleared my carb before storing the bike.
So even with fresh premix, carb / jetting seems really wrong. I guess carb is full of dried premix... How stupid I am !

On the recommandations from a friend working in diesel injected vehicle maintenance, I brought back from work an ultrasonic cleaner, like this one :


Do you know what kind of cleaning product I should use to clean my carb.
I plan to remove all parts (sensor, bowl, jet, bushel, etc...) and drown the carb body naked in the cleaner.
First bath with a solvant (white spirit), second bath with a detergent like dishwashing liquid and water rinsing.
Same thing with jet, bushel, bowl, etc...

Do you guys have ever experienced such cleaning, was it effective ?
Thanks a lot
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dogger315
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2/19/2015 1:35pm
You'll need an Aluminum specific cleaner for best results. Ultrasonic cleaners do a nice job of cleaning as long as
you use the right chemicals at the correct temperature. Here's a link to a company that sells an Aluminum specific
carb and injector cleaner for ultrasonics; http://ultrasonicsdirect.com/12decacl.html

You may have to run the parts through a couple of times before you get all of that dried on "varnish" to break up.

After each cleaning, try to blow out all the tiny passages with compressed air.

dogger
Bruce372
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2/19/2015 2:10pm
water with a little bit of simple green to break the surface tension.

don't over think it, its the ultra sonic energy going the cleaning.

I would try aerosol carb cleaner first.
Cmiller493
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Hays, KS US
2/19/2015 5:55pm
We have an ultrasonic at my school and I absolutely love it!! We use a cleaning detergent and water. It is a set it and forget it set up and it is awesome. They have gone down in price a lot since their introduction. Definitely will be getting one for my shop.
FGR01
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2/20/2015 6:40am
What type of gas and premix was in the carb while it sat? Please don't say castor oil. If so, you may be buying a new carb. Been down this road.

The Shop

Bruce372
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2/20/2015 8:08am
soda blasting might be another way of getting it clean.

I am sure you can get new O-rings etc.
quadmx301
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2/20/2015 8:26am
I have the same exact model at my machine shop, bought from Northern tool. I would consider bathing the entire stripped card in carb cleaner for awhile, scrub with a toothbrush, and then put it in the parts cleaner with a mild dish soap. Works wonder for all parts I've put in it.
FGR01
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2/20/2015 9:33am
There are some limitations and complications specific to the YZ250 carb that really become a hassle when trying to clean/restore one that has been allowed to sit with gas in it.

There are some very fine passageways that get easily clogged with corrosion and are nearly impossible to clean. the Power Jet nozzle is one example.

The rubber tip on the Power Jet solenoid plunger gets adhered into its cavity and then rips off when you try to remove the solenoid. Yamaha does not sell this tiny rubber tip separately and I know of no source to buy one. Solenoid is $$$$.

The "jet block" is designed to not be removed. It has numerous fine passageways in it that are easily clogged and difficult to clean. Yes, you can use a tamper-resistant Torx bit and remove it but the problem is finding replacement o-rings to re-install it. It is a special o-ring that Yamaha does not sell. And, no, the PWK jet-block o-ring that aftermarket companies (SUDCO, JD Jetting, etc) sell does not fit. Yes, guys have jury-rigged them and used special sealants to make it work, but it's a PITA.

The float valve seat is a brass piece that is pressed into the body of the carb. Again, Yamaha does not offer the seat as a replacement part. There are a few aftermarket ones that are obscure and I am unsure if they fit and work correctly.

I learned all this the hard way. Bought my YZ250 after it had sat for 2-3 years with castor oil in the carb. Castor oil breaks down into stearic acid which is corrosive to brass. My bike would run fine on flat ground but as soon as I hit a jump face or bumps it would break up. Likely clogged somewhere in the jet block or some other micro-passage. I ended up buying a new carb. They are stupid-expensive from Yamaha and most of the ones on ebay are junkers removed from clapped out bikes, a crapshoot. I got lucky and found a NITB with no reserve.

And, no, the aftermarket PWK's from SUDCO, JD, etc do not fit and are not what you want on your YZ250.
Neek
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Location
FR
2/20/2015 12:12pm
FGR01 wrote:
There are some limitations and complications specific to the YZ250 carb that really become a hassle when trying to clean/restore one that has been allowed to...
There are some limitations and complications specific to the YZ250 carb that really become a hassle when trying to clean/restore one that has been allowed to sit with gas in it.

There are some very fine passageways that get easily clogged with corrosion and are nearly impossible to clean. the Power Jet nozzle is one example.

The rubber tip on the Power Jet solenoid plunger gets adhered into its cavity and then rips off when you try to remove the solenoid. Yamaha does not sell this tiny rubber tip separately and I know of no source to buy one. Solenoid is $$$$.

The "jet block" is designed to not be removed. It has numerous fine passageways in it that are easily clogged and difficult to clean. Yes, you can use a tamper-resistant Torx bit and remove it but the problem is finding replacement o-rings to re-install it. It is a special o-ring that Yamaha does not sell. And, no, the PWK jet-block o-ring that aftermarket companies (SUDCO, JD Jetting, etc) sell does not fit. Yes, guys have jury-rigged them and used special sealants to make it work, but it's a PITA.

The float valve seat is a brass piece that is pressed into the body of the carb. Again, Yamaha does not offer the seat as a replacement part. There are a few aftermarket ones that are obscure and I am unsure if they fit and work correctly.

I learned all this the hard way. Bought my YZ250 after it had sat for 2-3 years with castor oil in the carb. Castor oil breaks down into stearic acid which is corrosive to brass. My bike would run fine on flat ground but as soon as I hit a jump face or bumps it would break up. Likely clogged somewhere in the jet block or some other micro-passage. I ended up buying a new carb. They are stupid-expensive from Yamaha and most of the ones on ebay are junkers removed from clapped out bikes, a crapshoot. I got lucky and found a NITB with no reserve.

And, no, the aftermarket PWK's from SUDCO, JD, etc do not fit and are not what you want on your YZ250.
Thanks FGR01 for your story, quite freaking story.
My carb was full of premix made from pump gas and premium synthetic oil, an Euro brand called Blue Oil.

I basically removed everything on the carb body except the jet block which seemed too complicated for me.
I used a dishwashing soap and water mix at 55 C° degrees to clean the carb. I made 3 x 4min cleaning circles.
The result is great, the carb seems like brand new and the bike started first kick, I did not noticed any bog while revving it as I did last week. However, I wait to ride again to make sure the cleaning was a success.

Thank you guys for your replies.

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