The proper way to compression test a 2 stroke?

JW381
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10/10/2014 3:52pm
That's how I did it, then just make sure you have a quality tester.
40Plus_922mx
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10/10/2014 6:45pm
Thanks guys. I bought a good tester. I think I will try ot cold and warm.

The Shop

JW381
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10/10/2014 6:56pm
why on the kill switch? no plug in head no start.....idk just wondering....
I think it's just a safety thing. All it'd take was a weird occurance to have the bike start deiseling while you've got it WFO with a compression tester thru the plug hole. That's just my guess, tho.
40Plus_922mx
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10/10/2014 7:57pm
Thanks guys. I bought a good tester. I think I will try ot cold and warm.
slipdog
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10/10/2014 8:24pm
I always do it cold, never thought much about the kill switch though.
harescrambled
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10/11/2014 8:01am
Kill switch to keep sparkplug lead from arcing, and possibly igniting something, or shocking the mechanic
BobPA
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10/11/2014 5:08pm
JW381 wrote:
I think it's just a safety thing. All it'd take was a weird occurance to have the bike start deiseling while you've got it WFO with...
I think it's just a safety thing. All it'd take was a weird occurance to have the bike start deiseling while you've got it WFO with a compression tester thru the plug hole. That's just my guess, tho.
Umm no
JW381
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10/12/2014 6:35pm
JW381 wrote:
I think it's just a safety thing. All it'd take was a weird occurance to have the bike start deiseling while you've got it WFO with...
I think it's just a safety thing. All it'd take was a weird occurance to have the bike start deiseling while you've got it WFO with a compression tester thru the plug hole. That's just my guess, tho.
BobPA wrote:
Umm no
Okay fine lol like I said, it was a guess.
JW381
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10/12/2014 6:36pm
Coulda done without that.... [IMG]http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/factorydad/20141011_153844_zps4e87bafc.jpg[/IMG]
Coulda done without that....


Time to order some fresh goods!
40Plus_922mx
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10/12/2014 7:04pm
Coulda done without that.... [IMG]http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/factorydad/20141011_153844_zps4e87bafc.jpg[/IMG]
Coulda done without that....


JW381 wrote:
Time to order some fresh goods!
Definitely. Was hoping for more compression. Oh well now I have another reason to go shopping.
ToolMaker
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10/13/2014 5:35am
JW381 wrote:
I think it's just a safety thing. All it'd take was a weird occurance to have the bike start deiseling while you've got it WFO with...
I think it's just a safety thing. All it'd take was a weird occurance to have the bike start deiseling while you've got it WFO with a compression tester thru the plug hole. That's just my guess, tho.
BobPA wrote:
Umm no
I believe it's to keep the electrical system form overloading as it can't discharge otherwise. Causing damage to the system. Whether or not it can retain the charge for any length of time and shock you later I don't know. But it can and will damage the system if it can't discharge. If you have the plug (or plug wire) grounded that will also work.
TM
40Plus_922mx
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10/20/2014 12:19am
Jakes Dad wrote:
Now get a set of snap gauges to help measure the bore, Keeping her tight will mean more long term satisfaction.Wink

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmXfGan_NXQ
What about a micrometer? I am getting 66mm both cylinder and piston.

The cylinder still has circular hone marks, and the cylinder wall feels like a mirror with my finger nail. There are zero signs of virticle wear or marks on the cyllinder walls. There is zero up and down play in the rod bearing. I checked it in all positions as I rotated it around checking for play. I am told this had a rebuild 3 years ago and the dude only rode it a few times a year when he went camping. I am wondering since he obviously ran a very rich mixture , and to looks like he lugged it everywhere if that is why it still looks good inside.

Can just needing a piston and rings cause such a low compresion test? I am also at 4000 feet.

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