Race fuel - What do i need to know

PTECH
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Edited Date/Time 12/1/2018 7:16pm
Thinking about starting to use some good fuel for my new KTM 500. Its a 10,000 bike I figure I should put the best in it. I dont ride that much so it wont really cost me a fortune. I'm not doing it for horsepower gains, just something that burns nice and clean and wont harm the fuel system. I would like to run something leaded for the added protection to the engine. I've heard oxygenated fuels go bad really quickly? I would probably be running 50/50 with pump 91. Anyone know any good articles about using race fuel in a dirt bike? I read a decent article on mxa about VP stuff but personal experiance from people would be appreciated. Thanks for anything you guys can teach me.
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brocsdad
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4/21/2015 7:19am
Hello,

The Oxy fuels will not go bad as long as the they are stored off the cement ground (on a pallet) and do not expose to the direct sunlight and kept sealed. If the bike if fuel injected you may need to have it remapped for race fuel and tell them what type of riding, race fuel and mix.

You could mix (1) gallon VP U4.4 with (4) gallons of non-ethanol pump. Ask the station how much of the pump 93 they sell. If it sits or they do not sell a lot you may be better to run 87 since it’s going to be fresher You are not going to need a lot of octane unless the motor compression has been raised. Just a splash of race fuel will be sufficient to help throttle response and a slight increase in power.

If the VP u4.4 is too expensive you could try the VP VPR.

FYI – Standard Race fuels require leaner jetting/mapping and oxy fuels require richer jetting/mapping. Personally I would run oxy fuel

Good Luck!
CarlinoJoeVideo
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4/21/2015 10:08am
See what you can find in your area. Oregon has some great 91 non-ethanol gas stations that are affordable and great fuel. VP100 is a great step up from pump gas as well at VP T4. Both are decent prices and wont gum up after sitting. My dream situation would be to mix a gallon of VP100 with 91 non-ethanol...
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Matt Fisher
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4/21/2015 11:45am
Pick up some 100LL from a local airport. Leaded, high octane, lasts for extended periods of time in metal containers (think of airplanes that sit for months without being used), easy to find.

Personally I drain the tank and carb anytime the bike is going to sit longer than 24 hours. Fuel stays fresh in a metal container, and the carb never has any nasty deposits.
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brocsdad
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4/21/2015 12:56pm Edited Date/Time 4/21/2015 1:09pm
Pick up some 100LL from a local airport. Leaded, high octane, lasts for extended periods of time in metal containers (think of airplanes that sit for...
Pick up some 100LL from a local airport. Leaded, high octane, lasts for extended periods of time in metal containers (think of airplanes that sit for months without being used), easy to find.

Personally I drain the tank and carb anytime the bike is going to sit longer than 24 hours. Fuel stays fresh in a metal container, and the carb never has any nasty deposits.
You must make sure the fuel does not contain de-icer and you need to mix it with pump fuel on a stock motor. Too much octane will kill hp if the bike is not setup to run it.

The Shop

PTECH
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4/21/2015 3:18pm
brocsdad wrote:
Hello, The Oxy fuels will not go bad as long as the they are stored off the cement ground (on a pallet) and do not expose...
Hello,

The Oxy fuels will not go bad as long as the they are stored off the cement ground (on a pallet) and do not expose to the direct sunlight and kept sealed. If the bike if fuel injected you may need to have it remapped for race fuel and tell them what type of riding, race fuel and mix.

You could mix (1) gallon VP U4.4 with (4) gallons of non-ethanol pump. Ask the station how much of the pump 93 they sell. If it sits or they do not sell a lot you may be better to run 87 since it’s going to be fresher You are not going to need a lot of octane unless the motor compression has been raised. Just a splash of race fuel will be sufficient to help throttle response and a slight increase in power.

If the VP u4.4 is too expensive you could try the VP VPR.

FYI – Standard Race fuels require leaner jetting/mapping and oxy fuels require richer jetting/mapping. Personally I would run oxy fuel

Good Luck!
Thanks for the reply. I have been looking at u4.4. Is it really true you can't store an oxygenated fuel on concrete? Would a wooden cabinet that rests on conrete be ok?
mxb2
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4/21/2015 5:18pm
brocsdad wrote:
Hello, The Oxy fuels will not go bad as long as the they are stored off the cement ground (on a pallet) and do not expose...
Hello,

The Oxy fuels will not go bad as long as the they are stored off the cement ground (on a pallet) and do not expose to the direct sunlight and kept sealed. If the bike if fuel injected you may need to have it remapped for race fuel and tell them what type of riding, race fuel and mix.

You could mix (1) gallon VP U4.4 with (4) gallons of non-ethanol pump. Ask the station how much of the pump 93 they sell. If it sits or they do not sell a lot you may be better to run 87 since it’s going to be fresher You are not going to need a lot of octane unless the motor compression has been raised. Just a splash of race fuel will be sufficient to help throttle response and a slight increase in power.

If the VP u4.4 is too expensive you could try the VP VPR.

FYI – Standard Race fuels require leaner jetting/mapping and oxy fuels require richer jetting/mapping. Personally I would run oxy fuel

Good Luck!
PTECH wrote:
Thanks for the reply. I have been looking at u4.4. Is it really true you can't store an oxygenated fuel on concrete? Would a wooden cabinet...
Thanks for the reply. I have been looking at u4.4. Is it really true you can't store an oxygenated fuel on concrete? Would a wooden cabinet that rests on conrete be ok?
put it on a milk crate , pallet,or cheap folding table from wal mart.
PTECH
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4/24/2015 6:52am
Anyone have experience with VP t4?
slackinoff
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4/24/2015 8:18am
PTECH wrote:
Anyone have experience with VP t4?
I don't yet, but I was planning on buying it next week.

I spoke with VP directly yesterday. They said T4 is awesome for stock bikes and provides a small HP increase and also throttle response. It is oxygenated but unleaded.

VPR is the same as T4 but leaded and thus a bit more octane....this is more of a two stroke fuel.

VPR and T4 are near the same price.

U4.4 has more oxy than T4/VPR and is leaded like VPR. It is quite a bit more $ than T4/VPR.

I am personally going to try T4 soon. My bike is stock, 14 YZ250F.
PTECH
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4/24/2015 10:21am
slackinoff wrote:
I don't yet, but I was planning on buying it next week. I spoke with VP directly yesterday. They said T4 is awesome for stock bikes...
I don't yet, but I was planning on buying it next week.

I spoke with VP directly yesterday. They said T4 is awesome for stock bikes and provides a small HP increase and also throttle response. It is oxygenated but unleaded.

VPR is the same as T4 but leaded and thus a bit more octane....this is more of a two stroke fuel.

VPR and T4 are near the same price.

U4.4 has more oxy than T4/VPR and is leaded like VPR. It is quite a bit more $ than T4/VPR.

I am personally going to try T4 soon. My bike is stock, 14 YZ250F.
It's a bummer I can get about every fuel vp makes except t4. It's special order for everyone in phoenix.
colson973
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Andover, MN US
4/24/2015 10:27am
I sell VP out of my shop and use it in a ton of my bike builds. I would recommend for the price running either VPR or T4 straight is a stock bike. U4.4 if your racing or want a noticeable HP boost. MR12 if you want the big gains on the Dyno. I never recommend mixing race fuel unless you ride a ton and are on a strict budget. I have a 2013 CRF450 and 250F both with mods and I run VPR straight. Works awesome and is a good price. I sell about 10x more VPR than T4. T4 is a great fuel but most guys like the Lead if they can legally run it.

As far as mixing it or running it straight goes... Your bike will love you if you run it straight. You can mix it but then your ruining the high purity race fuel fuel you just paid $14+ a gallon for. If your going to run race fuel just bite the bullet and run it straight. You will be MUCH happier with the outcome. Below is an idea of what pricing should be.

VPR / T4 $70 per can
U4.4 $90 per can
MR12 $140 per can

FGR01
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4/24/2015 11:06am
What does a concrete floor do to fuel that is bad?
mxb2
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4/24/2015 11:13am
FGR01 wrote:
What does a concrete floor do to fuel that is bad?
The moisture from the ground, affects the oxygen and additive contained in the fuel, store in cool, dark,place off the ground if possible.
colson973
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4/24/2015 11:35am
FGR01 wrote:
What does a concrete floor do to fuel that is bad?
mxb2 wrote:
The moisture from the ground, affects the oxygen and additive contained in the fuel, store in cool, dark,place off the ground if possible.
How does the moisture from the ground effect the fuel in a sealed steel can? Not being a smart ass I've just never heard that before and curious how that works?
mxb2
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4/24/2015 11:45am Edited Date/Time 4/24/2015 11:52am
FGR01 wrote:
What does a concrete floor do to fuel that is bad?
mxb2 wrote:
The moisture from the ground, affects the oxygen and additive contained in the fuel, store in cool, dark,place off the ground if possible.
colson973 wrote:
How does the moisture from the ground effect the fuel in a sealed steel can? Not being a smart ass I've just never heard that before...
How does the moisture from the ground effect the fuel in a sealed steel can? Not being a smart ass I've just never heard that before and curious how that works?
condensation., and never store in a plastic container. i store in the metal can , buy 5 gallon pales, easier to transport. and use an old wal mart table and put cans on it.
FGR01
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4/24/2015 12:37pm
FGR01 wrote:
What does a concrete floor do to fuel that is bad?
mxb2 wrote:
The moisture from the ground, affects the oxygen and additive contained in the fuel, store in cool, dark,place off the ground if possible.
Moisture, eh? I think I'll be ok in Arizona! haha

Actually, keeping it on the concrete here probably does more good than harm. The temp of the concrete stays more consistent throughout the day than the air in my garage. Temp fluctuation is what causes condensation so having it on the concrete here probably helps prevent that since the desert has large air temp flux day to night. In any case, mine's been sitting on the floor for years and never had a prob.
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mxb2
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4/24/2015 1:11pm
FGR01 wrote:
What does a concrete floor do to fuel that is bad?
mxb2 wrote:
The moisture from the ground, affects the oxygen and additive contained in the fuel, store in cool, dark,place off the ground if possible.
FGR01 wrote:
Moisture, eh? I think I'll be ok in Arizona! haha Actually, keeping it on the concrete here probably does more good than harm. The temp of...
Moisture, eh? I think I'll be ok in Arizona! haha

Actually, keeping it on the concrete here probably does more good than harm. The temp of the concrete stays more consistent throughout the day than the air in my garage. Temp fluctuation is what causes condensation so having it on the concrete here probably helps prevent that since the desert has large air temp flux day to night. In any case, mine's been sitting on the floor for years and never had a prob.
haha, i doubt if a average rider like me would be able to tell, but at the race fuel price, i try to get the best for my $$, and reps from vp, renegade, ti-lube all said the same thing, for what its worth.
brocsdad
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4/24/2015 1:33pm
colson973 wrote:
I sell VP out of my shop and use it in a ton of my bike builds. I would recommend for the price running either VPR...
I sell VP out of my shop and use it in a ton of my bike builds. I would recommend for the price running either VPR or T4 straight is a stock bike. U4.4 if your racing or want a noticeable HP boost. MR12 if you want the big gains on the Dyno. I never recommend mixing race fuel unless you ride a ton and are on a strict budget. I have a 2013 CRF450 and 250F both with mods and I run VPR straight. Works awesome and is a good price. I sell about 10x more VPR than T4. T4 is a great fuel but most guys like the Lead if they can legally run it.

As far as mixing it or running it straight goes... Your bike will love you if you run it straight. You can mix it but then your ruining the high purity race fuel fuel you just paid $14+ a gallon for. If your going to run race fuel just bite the bullet and run it straight. You will be MUCH happier with the outcome. Below is an idea of what pricing should be.

VPR / T4 $70 per can
U4.4 $90 per can
MR12 $140 per can

I have used Klotz KL100 and VP VPR in my sons 2-stroke 65/85's and they performed great but I recently switched to u4.4 for the latest build. If you were to run straight VPR in a modern 4-stroke you would need to change maps to reap the rewards. Especially on the CRF's which are lean from the factory.

It all depends on how you motor is setup but if you are running a fairly stock motor you are fine to run or mix non-ethanol pump with a splash of u4.4 or VPR. Everyone with a stock motor has better results keeping the octane lower.
Tpog496
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4/24/2015 1:41pm
colson973 wrote:
I sell VP out of my shop and use it in a ton of my bike builds. I would recommend for the price running either VPR...
I sell VP out of my shop and use it in a ton of my bike builds. I would recommend for the price running either VPR or T4 straight is a stock bike. U4.4 if your racing or want a noticeable HP boost. MR12 if you want the big gains on the Dyno. I never recommend mixing race fuel unless you ride a ton and are on a strict budget. I have a 2013 CRF450 and 250F both with mods and I run VPR straight. Works awesome and is a good price. I sell about 10x more VPR than T4. T4 is a great fuel but most guys like the Lead if they can legally run it.

As far as mixing it or running it straight goes... Your bike will love you if you run it straight. You can mix it but then your ruining the high purity race fuel fuel you just paid $14+ a gallon for. If your going to run race fuel just bite the bullet and run it straight. You will be MUCH happier with the outcome. Below is an idea of what pricing should be.

VPR / T4 $70 per can
U4.4 $90 per can
MR12 $140 per can

I run straight t4 in a stock crf250r with stock map. Would i benefit any from switching to VPR? If so how?
brocsdad
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4/24/2015 2:23pm
colson973 wrote:
I sell VP out of my shop and use it in a ton of my bike builds. I would recommend for the price running either VPR...
I sell VP out of my shop and use it in a ton of my bike builds. I would recommend for the price running either VPR or T4 straight is a stock bike. U4.4 if your racing or want a noticeable HP boost. MR12 if you want the big gains on the Dyno. I never recommend mixing race fuel unless you ride a ton and are on a strict budget. I have a 2013 CRF450 and 250F both with mods and I run VPR straight. Works awesome and is a good price. I sell about 10x more VPR than T4. T4 is a great fuel but most guys like the Lead if they can legally run it.

As far as mixing it or running it straight goes... Your bike will love you if you run it straight. You can mix it but then your ruining the high purity race fuel fuel you just paid $14+ a gallon for. If your going to run race fuel just bite the bullet and run it straight. You will be MUCH happier with the outcome. Below is an idea of what pricing should be.

VPR / T4 $70 per can
U4.4 $90 per can
MR12 $140 per can

Tpog496 wrote:
I run straight t4 in a stock crf250r with stock map. Would i benefit any from switching to VPR? If so how?
VP VPR is OXY fuel and it will give a slight hp increase and throttle response will be better. Great fuel for stock motors and slightly modded motors.

I would send your ECU to Tokyo Mods (I think they have a special for $79.00) and ask them to rempap the bike for VP VPR.

I think you will be very happy with the results.

Good Luck!
Tpog496
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4/24/2015 2:52pm
brocsdad wrote:
VP VPR is OXY fuel and it will give a slight hp increase and throttle response will be better. Great fuel for stock motors and slightly...
VP VPR is OXY fuel and it will give a slight hp increase and throttle response will be better. Great fuel for stock motors and slightly modded motors.

I would send your ECU to Tokyo Mods (I think they have a special for $79.00) and ask them to rempap the bike for VP VPR.

I think you will be very happy with the results.

Good Luck!
I plan to get a FMF as well. Should I re-map after i get the pipe?
brocsdad
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4/24/2015 2:57pm
brocsdad wrote:
VP VPR is OXY fuel and it will give a slight hp increase and throttle response will be better. Great fuel for stock motors and slightly...
VP VPR is OXY fuel and it will give a slight hp increase and throttle response will be better. Great fuel for stock motors and slightly modded motors.

I would send your ECU to Tokyo Mods (I think they have a special for $79.00) and ask them to rempap the bike for VP VPR.

I think you will be very happy with the results.

Good Luck!
Tpog496 wrote:
I plan to get a FMF as well. Should I re-map after i get the pipe?
Yes,

My friend bought a fmf pipe and then did the ecu remap and said the remap made a way bigger difference than the pipe!
slackinoff
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4/24/2015 11:00pm
brocsdad wrote:
VP VPR is OXY fuel and it will give a slight hp increase and throttle response will be better. Great fuel for stock motors and slightly...
VP VPR is OXY fuel and it will give a slight hp increase and throttle response will be better. Great fuel for stock motors and slightly modded motors.

I would send your ECU to Tokyo Mods (I think they have a special for $79.00) and ask them to rempap the bike for VP VPR.

I think you will be very happy with the results.

Good Luck!
Tpog496 wrote:
I plan to get a FMF as well. Should I re-map after i get the pipe?
No, for a stock bike and stock map T4 would be better than VPR.

T4 is oxygenated and actually has the same amount of oxygen content as VPR.

VPR has more octane and is also leaded. T4 is unleaded and lower octane and would run better in a stock bike than VPR.

IF you are going to play with ignition timing or bump compression then yes VPR would give you more room.
1
4/25/2015 4:43am
I run stock engines myself. Woods racing with mixed in MX, most of the time a stock 450 is more than enough but I refuse to run anything with ethanol in my bike. I've been using Sunoco 260GTX, 98 octane race fuel. Isn't super expensive, nothing fancy, smells good (exhaust) and keeps the internals happy.
Bruce372
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4/25/2015 8:47am
I run stock engines myself. Woods racing with mixed in MX, most of the time a stock 450 is more than enough but I refuse to...
I run stock engines myself. Woods racing with mixed in MX, most of the time a stock 450 is more than enough but I refuse to run anything with ethanol in my bike. I've been using Sunoco 260GTX, 98 octane race fuel. Isn't super expensive, nothing fancy, smells good (exhaust) and keeps the internals happy.
very good choice. i find the 260GTX is boringly reliable, no drama and consistent fuel that i run in my 450, kids 110 and the power washer!

i had a bad time when Sunoco went from MTBE to ethanol with their other 260 unleaded.
markit
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4/25/2015 4:33pm
mxb2 wrote:
The moisture from the ground, affects the oxygen and additive contained in the fuel, store in cool, dark,place off the ground if possible.
colson973 wrote:
How does the moisture from the ground effect the fuel in a sealed steel can? Not being a smart ass I've just never heard that before...
How does the moisture from the ground effect the fuel in a sealed steel can? Not being a smart ass I've just never heard that before and curious how that works?
mxb2 wrote:
condensation., and never store in a plastic container. i store in the metal can , buy 5 gallon pales, easier to transport. and use an old...
condensation., and never store in a plastic container. i store in the metal can , buy 5 gallon pales, easier to transport. and use an old wal mart table and put cans on it.
May condensate on the outside of the container but theres no way its going into in the container. It would have to already be in the fuel to condensate inside. This likley comes from the false battery drainage myth.
sesker15
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Upper Marlboro, MD US
4/26/2015 9:42am Edited Date/Time 4/26/2015 9:47am
mxb2 wrote:
haha, i doubt if a average rider like me would be able to tell, but at the race fuel price, i try to get the best...
haha, i doubt if a average rider like me would be able to tell, but at the race fuel price, i try to get the best for my $$, and reps from vp, renegade, ti-lube all said the same thing, for what its worth.
Yup mxb2 is rite. Try and keep it off the concrete

4/26/2015 11:06am
I run stock engines myself. Woods racing with mixed in MX, most of the time a stock 450 is more than enough but I refuse to...
I run stock engines myself. Woods racing with mixed in MX, most of the time a stock 450 is more than enough but I refuse to run anything with ethanol in my bike. I've been using Sunoco 260GTX, 98 octane race fuel. Isn't super expensive, nothing fancy, smells good (exhaust) and keeps the internals happy.
Bruce372 wrote:
very good choice. i find the 260GTX is boringly reliable, no drama and consistent fuel that i run in my 450, kids 110 and the power...
very good choice. i find the 260GTX is boringly reliable, no drama and consistent fuel that i run in my 450, kids 110 and the power washer!

i had a bad time when Sunoco went from MTBE to ethanol with their other 260 unleaded.
Hahaha. I also run it in the power washer and lawn tractor. With the lawn tractor I usually mix in about an ounce of yamalube 2T per gallon for an amazing grass cutting smell!

Yeah I have zero complaints with 260GTX. Great fuel for sure.
1
Todd727
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Holly Springs, MS US
11/24/2018 7:59pm
Pick up some 100LL from a local airport. Leaded, high octane, lasts for extended periods of time in metal containers (think of airplanes that sit for...
Pick up some 100LL from a local airport. Leaded, high octane, lasts for extended periods of time in metal containers (think of airplanes that sit for months without being used), easy to find.

Personally I drain the tank and carb anytime the bike is going to sit longer than 24 hours. Fuel stays fresh in a metal container, and the carb never has any nasty deposits.
Plenty of people think that higher octane numbers are the key. You need to look at the distillation curve and the intended use for the fuel. 100LL is made for slow engines, typically running ~2500 RPM. It is a slow burning fuel, and it is not the right fuel for the applications in this forum. It is made for air cooled engines running at higher altitudes than most of the folks here ride at.
11/25/2018 1:08am
Pick up some 100LL from a local airport. Leaded, high octane, lasts for extended periods of time in metal containers (think of airplanes that sit for...
Pick up some 100LL from a local airport. Leaded, high octane, lasts for extended periods of time in metal containers (think of airplanes that sit for months without being used), easy to find.

Personally I drain the tank and carb anytime the bike is going to sit longer than 24 hours. Fuel stays fresh in a metal container, and the carb never has any nasty deposits.
Todd727 wrote:
Plenty of people think that higher octane numbers are the key. You need to look at the distillation curve and the intended use for the fuel...
Plenty of people think that higher octane numbers are the key. You need to look at the distillation curve and the intended use for the fuel. 100LL is made for slow engines, typically running ~2500 RPM. It is a slow burning fuel, and it is not the right fuel for the applications in this forum. It is made for air cooled engines running at higher altitudes than most of the folks here ride at.
Don't airplanes normally take off at sea level?

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