Posts
27442
Joined
7/22/2007
Location
St Helens, OR
US
Edited Date/Time
7/30/2015 7:59pm
Hey guys , I posted this in my RM thread , but thought I may get a little more help in here.
I didn't notice this on the first two rides on my RM back in Sept of last year. Just started noticing it about 6 weeks ago when I finally got to start riding it. But my clutch is really weird on this bike. It isn't slipping ( yet ) but it only engages at about the last 10-15% of my throw on the clutch lever. I can't seem to run any slack in the cable at all ( which I always do on my other bikes ) because there is like NO SPRING tension what so ever to keep my cable bead in the little clutch lever inside my case. If I run any slack , it will just fall out. I have it set so it just barely has any tension at all , and in doing that my clutch will only engage at the very end of the throw.
I am ordering up a full new set of Barnett plates and HD clutch springs , and a new cable. Could it be that maybe my plates are just worn and haven't given out yet , or maybe my springs have lost their strength?
I didn't notice this on the first two rides on my RM back in Sept of last year. Just started noticing it about 6 weeks ago when I finally got to start riding it. But my clutch is really weird on this bike. It isn't slipping ( yet ) but it only engages at about the last 10-15% of my throw on the clutch lever. I can't seem to run any slack in the cable at all ( which I always do on my other bikes ) because there is like NO SPRING tension what so ever to keep my cable bead in the little clutch lever inside my case. If I run any slack , it will just fall out. I have it set so it just barely has any tension at all , and in doing that my clutch will only engage at the very end of the throw.
I am ordering up a full new set of Barnett plates and HD clutch springs , and a new cable. Could it be that maybe my plates are just worn and haven't given out yet , or maybe my springs have lost their strength?
Clutch plates are easy to tell. Pull them out and measure them. You will have a spec range listed in your manual. This probably is not the issue though.
You may need to check the clutch camshaft, push rod, the push piece and the bearing for wear.
Use OEM plates and springs, new OEM cable, and replace the couple of small bearings as well as the actuator rod. These are all cheap, wear items. You will be very happy. In addition, as mxtech1 said, make sure you are using a clutch perch with OEM pull. I think only ARC and the new Works Connection ones are, besides OEM. I run the OEM perch with a couple suspension shims around an ARC lever and it takes all the up/down play out of it. It works amazing.
The Shop
- I bought one set of spare metals/ fibers for $30
Here's a '05 set for a good price...Ebay
When I'm goofing around and don't need a set, I've see them at 110-$125 for either my RM or RMZ
A lot of people post pro x or kg as oem replacements
... I just buy the real stuff or extras of wear and tear items
Just like a few extra plugs for the rm in my tool box
- like back in the day--- tubes, etc
http://www.btosports.com/p/kg-clutch-factory-complete-clutch-kits
Imo the wiseco baskets are the best value, as are the wiseco plates as well as pro x.
The inner hub is an issue, since suzukis changed the splines several times and now they are hard to find from hinson. I know pro x make the hub cheap for the rm125.
Hack man has a great idea to hard anodize oem parts if you can find a service locally.
I've never had luck with the aftermarket plates, until using the wiseco ones recently I. My rm125
Post a reply to: RM 250 clutch issues.