Powder coating prep

dombrowsky106
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dombrowsky106
I'm gonna have my frame and swing arm sent out and powder coated what do I need to do to get there? What holes do I need to plug. I know the swing arms bearing need to come out is that a major job getting them out and putting them back in. If you have experience and can walk me through this please let me know
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CarlinoJoeVideo
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CarlinoJoeVideo 7/27/2016 10:39pm
7/27/2016 10:39pm
I've always just dropped it off, they sandblast and plug the holes that are threaded.
Kx125rider 7/28/2016 5:51am
7/28/2016 5:51am
CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:
I've always just dropped it off, they sandblast and plug the holes that are threaded.
Yup, they should be doing everything.
731chopper
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731chopper 7/28/2016 9:22am
7/28/2016 9:22am
dombrowsky106 wrote:
I'm gonna have my frame and swing arm sent out and powder coated what do I need to do to get there? What holes do I...
I'm gonna have my frame and swing arm sent out and powder coated what do I need to do to get there? What holes do I need to plug. I know the swing arms bearing need to come out is that a major job getting them out and putting them back in. If you have experience and can walk me through this please let me know
Getting the bearings out isn't difficult but it is a little tedious and will take a little bit of time, especially if you don't have the tool and have to create a makeshift press with sockets. They shouldn't be painting where the bearings are though so are you sure they need to be removed or can they just be covered/plugged?

If you do remove the bearings, I'd recommend buying new ones to put back in there. They aren't that expensive and it's better to get it done while you have the old ones out if you plan on keeping the bike for a while.
dombrowsky106
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dombrowsky106 7/28/2016 11:12am
7/28/2016 11:12am
dombrowsky106 wrote:
I'm gonna have my frame and swing arm sent out and powder coated what do I need to do to get there? What holes do I...
I'm gonna have my frame and swing arm sent out and powder coated what do I need to do to get there? What holes do I need to plug. I know the swing arms bearing need to come out is that a major job getting them out and putting them back in. If you have experience and can walk me through this please let me know
731chopper wrote:
Getting the bearings out isn't difficult but it is a little tedious and will take a little bit of time, especially if you don't have the...
Getting the bearings out isn't difficult but it is a little tedious and will take a little bit of time, especially if you don't have the tool and have to create a makeshift press with sockets. They shouldn't be painting where the bearings are though so are you sure they need to be removed or can they just be covered/plugged?

If you do remove the bearings, I'd recommend buying new ones to put back in there. They aren't that expensive and it's better to get it done while you have the old ones out if you plan on keeping the bike for a while.
I could just cover them but I just don't really want sand getting in there but I think I'll just plug them

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racinstation
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racinstation 7/28/2016 3:37pm
7/28/2016 3:37pm
If the machine has time on it, just leave the bearings in there. They will do everything needed as stated above, but when you get the parts back you can just press the old bearings out and then the bearing races and mating surfaces will be untouched from the blasting and coating. I would recommend bearings and seals on all the linkage, and swingarm pivots while you are there anyway.

swatdoc
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swatdoc 7/30/2016 11:57pm
7/30/2016 11:57pm
this is being a little anal, but for powdercoating aluminum, I tell the PC'er to keep the oven at 325 degrees max. Most PC'ers like to run about 425, because this speeds up the process. But for aluminum, I've heard that heating to over 350 can change the heat-treated charachteristics of the aluminum and make it more prone to cracking/breaking.
You can PC aluminum just fine at about 325 - it just takes a little longer to bake is all. I'm sure many guys will tell you they have PC'ed aluminum at 400-425 and it's just fine. That may be true - I'm just letting you know what I've heard so you can do your own research and make your own informed decision.
BAMX
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BAMX 7/31/2016 8:56am
7/31/2016 8:56am
Generally, you just note what needs to be masked or plugged when you drop it of. If you want to read the VIN numbers after, you probably want to note that as well or they may lay it on too thick.

Also, they will not want to powder coat with the bearings installed. When they heat the frame, the grease will run out and ruin the job.
Dtat720
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Dtat720 8/1/2016 2:55pm
8/1/2016 2:55pm
swatdoc wrote:
this is being a little anal, but for powdercoating aluminum, I tell the PC'er to keep the oven at 325 degrees max. Most PC'ers like to...
this is being a little anal, but for powdercoating aluminum, I tell the PC'er to keep the oven at 325 degrees max. Most PC'ers like to run about 425, because this speeds up the process. But for aluminum, I've heard that heating to over 350 can change the heat-treated charachteristics of the aluminum and make it more prone to cracking/breaking.
You can PC aluminum just fine at about 325 - it just takes a little longer to bake is all. I'm sure many guys will tell you they have PC'ed aluminum at 400-425 and it's just fine. That may be true - I'm just letting you know what I've heard so you can do your own research and make your own informed decision.
Most all aluminum parts on a bike are already treated to T-6511. In order to change the metalurgy or matrix, it has to be heated to over 700 degrees. 350-450, doesnt matter. 700, changes begin
swatdoc
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swatdoc 8/3/2016 2:43am
8/3/2016 2:43am Edited Date/Time 8/3/2016 2:44am
Dtat do you have a reference for that? I'd really like to know for sure - it sure would simplify matters. I only know from what so-called metal experts have said online. Would actually like to read the facts for myself

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