More 2015 CRF 250R questions

gharmon
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Valley, AL US
8/30/2016 1:34pm
Okay, we seem to have gotten the clutch problem fixed (thanks for the help guys). We got a couple other issues. First off, the bike runs all stock components and we bought it new. I rebuilt the engine, top and bottom ends, about 25 hours ago. The bike seems to be running hot for some reason. We don't see any water leaking but it boils over after riding. The engine even while warming up seems to be way hotter TO THE TOUCH than normal. I mean you can just feel the heat between your legs just sitting on it while running.

I haven't fooled with many computer issue but I know from my drag racing cars days that if one was mistimed (high I think) it would get hot as shit and the headers would glow. The bike isn't a tooth off per cams/engine. Does the ECU or whatever you call them on bikes ever go bad gradually and possible cause some of this. While the radiators are bent there doesn't seem to be any leaks. How are the water pumps on these bikes? Are head gaskets known to blow on this thing? It also started getting harder to start than normal while cold. Now it's hard to start at anytime. He states he hasn't heard any detonating by he probably doesn't know what it is anyway. We always run 93 octane pump gas. Oh yeah the valves are within normal specs on the cam..
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Paw Paw
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Benton, LA US
8/30/2016 2:18pm
If the fuel filter is dirty it will reduce fuel flow and cause a lean condition and thus more heat. The same can be said of the injector.
Bent up radiators can also reduce coolant flow and thus create additional heat build up.
Of course the use of some aftermarket parts in your rebuilds can also create extra friction and thus more heat.
Of course there are many other things in a rebuild that can cause the excess heat as well as worn parts that were not replaced.
Were your replacement parts OEM or aftermarket?

Paw Paw
walent215
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Ridgecrest, CA US
8/30/2016 7:17pm
paw paw is on the right track...weve had a couple fi crf250s and the fuel filter does get plugged....get the kit and replace it and you should be good to go
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
9/1/2016 6:24am
Paw Paw wrote:
If the fuel filter is dirty it will reduce fuel flow and cause a lean condition and thus more heat. The same can be said of...
If the fuel filter is dirty it will reduce fuel flow and cause a lean condition and thus more heat. The same can be said of the injector.
Bent up radiators can also reduce coolant flow and thus create additional heat build up.
Of course the use of some aftermarket parts in your rebuilds can also create extra friction and thus more heat.
Of course there are many other things in a rebuild that can cause the excess heat as well as worn parts that were not replaced.
Were your replacement parts OEM or aftermarket?

Paw Paw
Paw Paw , it was mix matched. I know I used a OEM crankshaft kit. I think the gasket kit may have been cometic and the piston I can't remember if I used an OEM or Wiseco. I did not mess with the head as everything look good and the valve clearance was dead on accurate.

I have ordered a new fuel filter and it will be here tomorrow. We will see how that plays out tomorrow. Yesterday at the track he cranked it and rod two laps. Then it died and he was unable to get it to fire back up, even pulling it off with golf cart. I'm going to check the valve clearance hear after while and see what we got. I checked them a month ago and they were still fine. If they hadn't changed in 2 years prior I find it hard to believe they went to zero clearance in a month but I'm going to start there.

Thanks for the assistance guys.
cjmx
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9/25/2006
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Lakewood, CO US
Fantasy
1180th
9/1/2016 6:55am
get one of these

filter

or you'll be replacing that fuel filter way too often. You also don't want it to bog from a dirty filter while riding.

The Shop

gharmon
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Valley, AL US
9/3/2016 9:44am
Ok guys I left you the other day with it going dead and not firing back up. Okay, I got the filter sock changed yesterday and checked the valves. The valves were 0.010" on exhaust and .005" on intake. Been the same since the bike was checked the first time. So it's not a valve issue.

After getting everything all buttoned back up and kicked and kicked and kicked to no avail. It never even tried to hit.. Any ideas guys?

jaredkeller96
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504
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11/8/2015
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Huntersville, NC US
9/4/2016 10:27pm
its your stator...i had a similar issue. dynoed my bike on a monday with my vortex..went to ride saturday ran for 10 mins throwing codes..popped in stock ecu..ran great for about 20 mins then she just quit like someone hit the killswitch...tried multiple things. a buddies fuel pump. both my ecus. his tokyo mods ecu. put in a new regulator. tried 12v power in place of regulator. tried buddies coil and wire. i replaced my injector with one we had in the shop and replaced map sensor along with the tube. set Tps multiple times. only had 5% leak down. checked timing many of times. valves checked. i even bought a used wiring harness..so then i asked a buddy of mine at geico who builds the engines on some tips and they say stators are one of the most replaced items on a CRF especially when modified. they had a bike that would run fine but would die when it landed from a jump. so i replaced it and it fired up within two kicks.. I'd say pull the plug and get a stator
jaredkeller96
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9/4/2016 10:29pm
I had absolutely great spark as well. and when i would stick a rag in my TB it would come out soaked in fuel as well. fuel filter was cleaned as well. same issues i had..didnt even want to start.
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
9/6/2016 3:26pm
Well I've been busy but I have got around to messing with it today. I put in a new plug just for the hell of it. It has great spark btw. It lit my ass up when I held and kick it over. I wanted to be sure so I just held the bitch. I even sprayed ether in the throttle body and kicked and kicked and kicked. It wont even hit at all. When he gets home we are going to try to pull it off. Hondas foot peg tears up the fucking top my damn foot when I kick this damn thing He's got blisters on the bottom of his foot and I got bruises on top of mine. All this from kicking. So you just changed the stator? I'll give that a shot. That's if his buddy lets him borrow his..

Oh yeah just to eliminate the possibility of timing issue I checked them and the timing has not jumped. It as dead on as were the valves
gharmon
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9/7/2016 8:34am
I tore it the rest of the way down looking for stuff. We even tried to pull it off. It hit one little time. That could have been left over ether or something.. Is there anyway to clean an injector at home or tell if it's stopped up. Even if it was the injector spraying ether straight into the intact tract should fire it up correct?
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
9/7/2016 12:28pm
Okay I tried a couple more things. I don't have a spare stator to use like the above mentioned said. I did however, stick a paper towel in intake track and kicked in over several times. It appears to NOT be spraying gas from the injector.. So I pull the injector and hold the tank and injector up to a 12 volt battery source and it shoots out like 6 or so streams of steady gas flow. So I put my volt meter to test. I stuck the leads into the wire that feeds the injector to see if it was sending a signal. Trying to kick it over via hand and holding the voltmeter with the other it was definitely sending some juice. I saw like .31 on the volt meter as I was kicking it over.

Is there a certain number it needs to reach via kicking it over? It also did fire over by putting ether into the throttle body.
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
9/7/2016 12:28pm
We need some help guys. We have the vurb classic here in GA. approaching fast. It's this weekend!
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
9/8/2016 8:43am
Just for testing purposes will things like stator's, ecu, injectors cross between a 2012 and 2015? I know the part numbers are different but will they work for just testing purposes? I have a friend that has a torn apart 2012 that I could use for parts testing.


Any advice. The race weekend and today is the last day to "next day" in a part if I need it.. Just to throw it out there the bike never thru a code of any sort.
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
9/8/2016 9:07am
After reading thru another thread on a 2013 bike here someone mentions that I should be able to see the injector spray gas when being kick over with the air intake and boot off the bike. I see no spray at all. I also stuffed paper towels in there just to see if they were wet. Notta. Nothing, not even a smell of gas.

But here is what confuses me. If I spray ether in there it still doesn't fire or hit. Now you can see the back of the valves so I know fuel is getting to where it needs to be to fire the bike. WTF. It's in time, the bike has fuel, spark, and compression. I been eff'ing with internal combustion engines for most of my life and I thought that's all you needed to make one run.
Apparrently NOT!!
jaredkeller96
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9/8/2016 11:01am
My stator tested fine normal. like i said i replaced everything i could with stuff we had around the shop and from my buddies bike..fuel pump, coil/wire, ecus, spark plug, we had a spare throttle body in the shop so i took the map sensor and injector off it. I had Crazy Mad spark with a bad stator. i replaced my wiring harness as well..yes his stator will work..2010-2016 are the same engines with minor differences. i had spark on the correct timing of the engine, i had fuel, and i had 6% or so leak on a cold engine, replace the stator. bikes get hot. they start to weakin, if you are like me and have a full mod engine its one of the weaker links of it due to the heat and stress from the engine.
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
9/8/2016 1:09pm Edited Date/Time 9/8/2016 1:10pm
My stator tested fine normal. like i said i replaced everything i could with stuff we had around the shop and from my buddies bike..fuel pump...
My stator tested fine normal. like i said i replaced everything i could with stuff we had around the shop and from my buddies bike..fuel pump, coil/wire, ecus, spark plug, we had a spare throttle body in the shop so i took the map sensor and injector off it. I had Crazy Mad spark with a bad stator. i replaced my wiring harness as well..yes his stator will work..2010-2016 are the same engines with minor differences. i had spark on the correct timing of the engine, i had fuel, and i had 6% or so leak on a cold engine, replace the stator. bikes get hot. they start to weakin, if you are like me and have a full mod engine its one of the weaker links of it due to the heat and stress from the engine.
It's a stock engine and I'm getting absolutely no fuel at all!! Hell it wont even crank with ether in the damn thing.
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
9/8/2016 3:44pm
Yeah the 2010 stator is NOT the same. I mean they will bolt right in but the electrical connectors will not work together.
jaredkeller96
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9/8/2016 6:13pm
Okay so pop out the pins and put them in your new style plug. Simple as that.
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
9/9/2016 8:11am
Do they just push out the back with a little pressure?
jaredkeller96
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9/9/2016 8:17am
Most of the do. Be careful not to push to hard and mess up the female connectors of the stator. You start on the femal end and pull them up a tad to get them unlocked and push. Patience is key. Then just take your other stator and do the same then put back in same order
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
9/9/2016 2:54pm
Most of the do. Be careful not to push to hard and mess up the female connectors of the stator. You start on the femal end...
Most of the do. Be careful not to push to hard and mess up the female connectors of the stator. You start on the femal end and pull them up a tad to get them unlocked and push. Patience is key. Then just take your other stator and do the same then put back in same order
Okay, thanks for the advice. I'm thinking we also have a blown head gasket as the for the overheating we were having and the excessive heat may have damage the stator. It happens exactly like this on my grandson's ktm SX 50.
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
1/26/2017 12:28pm
Okay guys it's been awhile since I last posted in this topic. I had a lot of personal shit that went on that kept me out of the shop and in the work place more.

"Update, the bike still will not crank (at least not without spraying ether in the TB. Just to rehash the issue I'll put the initial complaint here:Okay, we seem to have gotten the clutch problem fixed (thanks for the help guys). We got a couple other issues. First off, the bike runs all stock components and we bought it new. I rebuilt the engine, top and bottom ends, about 25 hours ago. The bike seems to be running hot for some reason. We don't see any water leaking but it boils over after riding. The engine even while warming up seems to be way hotter TO THE TOUCH than normal. I mean you can just feel the heat between your legs just sitting on it while running.

I haven't fooled with many computer issue but I know from my drag racing cars days that if one was mistimed (high I think) it would get hot as shit and the headers would glow. The bike isn't a tooth off per cams/engine. Does the ECU or whatever you call them on bikes ever go bad gradually and possible cause some of this. While the radiators are bent there doesn't seem to be any leaks. How are the water pumps on these bikes? Are head gaskets known to blow on this thing? It also started getting harder to start than normal while cold. Now it's hard to start at anytime. He states he hasn't heard any detonating by he probably doesn't know what it is anyway. We always run 93 octane pump gas. Oh yeah the valves are within normal specs on the cam.."

Ok, so I did replace the fuel filter, the head gasket (it was blown) and the top end.

Okay, so now I'm back to get this thing up and running. I'm not the best at electrical shit and testing components so I need some help guys.
Other things I've done and eliminated. I have tried a stator form a good bike and its still a no go.
I know you aren't supposed to hook it up to a 12 volt set up but I did rig up a setup and the fuel pump and injector both still work and work well.
If I spray ether into the throttle body it will fire and run, pretty easily. So I assume something isn't tell the computer/ECU to fire the injector? Could all the excessive heat that had been coming from the hotter running engine cause a failure somewhere to a component getting to hot?

And ideas where to start?

Thanks Guys,

Gerald
gharmon
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Valley, AL US
2/4/2017 10:58am
Need some help guys??

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