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you have 927 on hand? use that if you do.

If you have a Chevron gas station near you, pick up some of their two stroke oil. They should have it inside the little mini-mart type store, I think it's called Havoline two cycle oil now. It is carbon based and will work well as a break in oil, it's all I've ever used.

927 is castor based. should be fine, thats what ive always used.

I've used the Lucas semi synthetic before with no issues. you don't want stuff coated in oil, a dab on your finger and go around the cylinder just enough it's not dry. fire that bitch up, one heat cycle and ride, if it's just a typical new top end.

Since you're considering running the 927 anyways, use it to break it in as well. It is a good oil, and I've never seen any problems related to it. My main suggestion, despite varied opinions, would be to do the heat cycle method of break in. It's how I was taught by my dad, in school, and what I have seen more often than not, as the recommended method. Here's one reference to it:
http://www.lasleeve.com/downloads/2-stroke-break-in-procedures.pdf
If you do decide to use it, here's something else that might help after break-in:
http://www.procircuit.com/jetting-specs.htm

only place 927 kinda sucks is that its gummy (con of castor oils). and will clog up powervalves and leave a lot of carbon in the pipe. besides that its awesome stuff. just takes more maintenance

Lucas is good oil and it will work fine for break-in. It is a light viscosity oil so mix it at a lower ratio than you would with a "racing" oil. If you are a fast mx'er riding a 125 on soft tracks, mix it at 24:1.

Did you slop 927 on the piston/rings/cylinder when you assembled it? If so, good luck with ring seal. You'll probably end up with a lot of blow-by in that engine.

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Lucas will be fine to run all the time.

We have used it for the past 10 years with no oil related issues @ 32:1 mix ratio.

It works!

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The heaviest oil you should assemble a new 2-stroke top end with is WD40. Putting premix oil on the piston/rings/cylinder inhibits ring seal.

I'm anal, so I would pull it back down, but it will still run if you don't. You just might not make as much power and accelerated wear if you end up with a glazed cylinder wall.

Broken in countless top ends with super M, never had any issues. I don't even break them in, I warm it up once and then practice holeshots in a field to I know it won't blow up on a jump face lol.

Blow-by is a recurring theme on my used pistons tho, maybe I am doing something wrong.

Are you assembling the top end wet with oil on the cylinder/piston/rings. If so, that is probably causing your blow-by issues.

You'll be fine. Personally, I prefer to use a non synthetic oil in the premix for break in, but a light coating of either type during assembly will work without problem. I always put a light coating of whatever oil I'm going to use in that engine on the rings
and cylinder wall. Never had a problem with ring sealing or premature wear after hundreds of top ends.

Not using synthetic oil during break in is because that oil has a lower level of friction (by design) which impedes ring seating,
IMO. Once the rings are seated, break in is complete and you can switch to your favorite brand of oil. Kawasaki used to market
a special "break in" oil just for that purpose. It was a non synthetic oil with some additives. This debate has raged for years and
has degenerated to "what ever works for you". On the one hand you have Kawasaki with the special break in non synthetic oil
and on the other you have Porsche (yes Porsche uses NIKASIL coated cylinders), breaking their engines in with full synthetic
Mobil 1.

As for using something like WD40, I have used WD40 to clean a freshly honed cylinder after the soap and water step, and I
like to use it when I'm test fitting parts like tranny gears and others that will be hand rotated to prevent dry metal on metal
contact. But I switch to a film of the appropriate oil for all of the above before final assembly. Since WD40 is meant to be a
water displacer (thus the WD), I'm not inclined to trust it as an assembly lube - but that's just me. CamP is expressing his
opinion on not using premix oil because there are always going to be different "techniques" for doing the same job. This,
like the synthetic, non synthetic debate comes down to the same "what ever works for you". I have a friend that tells me
that I should only assemble my clutch packs dry. He is adamant that soaking the friction disc in oil keeps the clutch from
breaking in correctly. Of course I always soak the friction disc in oil anyway, just like the manual says, and of course, the
clutch always works fine. In my experience, the manufacturers do a good job of putting out accurate information on the
best way to assemble and maintain their products. The same goes for your top end, Honda specifies lubricating these
components with two stroke oil during assembly in the service manual for your bike. Normally, I defer to the people that
designed and built the engine whenever there is a question, but again, that's just me.

dogger

Yes! First kick feels like it is going to break a ring sometimes.

I use a syringe and get pre-mix behind the rings as well as all over the outside of them. Also squirt is all over the main bearings and the little end bearing.

Should I not use any oil on the rings and cylinder?

I do the same "dry" procedure that CamP is referring to. I use a clean white rag with wd40 as a final cleaner to make sure the cylinder is completely clean than assemble top end using nothing else. I use hp2 synthetic premix 32:1 and get great life out of my pistons with no blow-by. The compression on my engine went up by about 5 psi on average after break in once I started using this method a few years back.

That's why you are seeing blow-by. Next time, run a ball type glaze breaker through your cylinder when it is off. Then clean the cylinder with hot soap/water and a plastic scrub brush. Once it's clean, use contact cleaner with paper towels until no dark residue is present. Finally, wipe the cylinder/piston/rings down with a light coat of WD40. Oil only the wrist pin bearing with premix oil, then reassemble.

I have always massaged my premix oil onto the parts for reassembly, as a racer, and a technician,... I assure you that there has never been any glaze or sealing problems with this method, and I have never blown a motor! As far as any blow by,...There may or may not be a minimal amount, but there's nobody that is going to notice that slight of a HP loss without a dyno, and if you're jumping on a dyno, get the hell offf the dirt, and go to the pavement! When i say massage, I mean to rub the oil on so thin, it's like rubbing in lotion on your hands. When assembled, i hand turn the engine with the head off, and if there's any accumulation of oil at TDC, I will wipe it out with my fingers, as i agree that you don't need to over oil during assy. Many techs, in shops, on race teams, and dealerships have been doing this for many, many years, so I'm sorry if i disagree with anyone saying it's a bad way to do this. I will also add that wd40 is a solvent of sorts, and NOT a lubricant. It may work fine for reassembly for those who swear by it in this thread, but it is not a standard in any way shape or form, In fact, as most know, the "WD" stands for "water displacement". It is great for cleaning, and spraying on the bike after washing! For those of you that would swear by this, I'm not knocking what you believe in, but I would suggest making a cup of actual premix/fuel, just lighter than pure oil, and using that if you have to have a "lighter" assy lube, rather than use a solvent to reassemble your motor. I'm surprised that this topic has even come to be, as like I said, this has been a standard method for e very long time. I guess I'm also surprised, because many race teams, in many venues are now using coatings, such as DLC, on cylinders and piston skirts, to reduce friction, without regard to ring sealing or blowby.Any good Honda tech can research the technology of it, as Honda has been doing it for years in various engines.